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REV. ALLIE IRICK 


































































































A JOURNEY 

'ROUND THE WORLD 


BY 


ALLIE IRICK. Evangelist. 

LAMASCO. TEXAS. 
(Copyrighted.) 

. By Aliie irick, lyoy, 

si/ 


PENTECOSTAL HERALD PRINT. 

LOUISVILLE. KY. 

1907. 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two CoDies Received 


MAY 25 190r 


Cepynrht Entry 

Ai 

CLASS /\ XXc., No,' 

/ 7 3 <? >s a- 

COPY B. 


/ 


“And He said unto them, Go ye into all the world, 
and preach the gospel to every creature.”—Jesus. 

t 

“I am debtor both to the Greeks and to the Barbar¬ 
ians ; both to the wise and unwise.”—Paul. 








CONTENTS. 


Chapter I. Farewell Meetings. 7 

II. The Departure—Its Signifi¬ 
cance. II 

III. Our Ocean Voyage. 17 

IV. Liverpool—London.26 

V. The French Republic. 39 

VI. Rome—Naples.47 

VII. Greece—Home of the Poets... 59 
VIIL City of "‘The False Prophet”... 68 

“ IX. The Land of Egypt.81 

“ X. In the Holy Land. 96 

“ XL From Palestine to India.120 

“ XIL British India.127 

“ XIIL The Land of Religions.137 

‘‘ XIV. Missionary Evangelism.147 

‘‘ XV. Mountain Glory.162 

“ XVI. Rangoon, Burmah.169 

'' XVII. Singapore—Shanghai.178 

“ XVHI. The Celestial Empire.189 

“ XIX. The Sunrise Kingdom.199 

“ XX. Japan's Development.212 

“ XXL Evangelistic Labors.223 

“ XXII. Homeward Bound.234 

XXIII. Paradise of the Pacific.241 

XXIV. Our Majestic Steamer.252 

“ XXV. Home-Sweet-Home.:.262 

“ XXVI. The Harvest Field.272 

” XXVII. Missionary-Type.285 

'' XXVIIL Missionary Movements.296 

























LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Allie Irick. i 

Pyramid of Egypt.• 2 

Mount Olivet. 3 

Mosque of Omar—Jerusalem. 4 

Wailing of the Jews. 5 

Jordan—The Place of Baptism.6 

Nazareth—The Home of Our Lord.7 

Our Company at the Jaffa Gate—Jerusalem.8 

Mohammedans at Prayer. 9 

'‘Two Shall t)e Grinding at the Mill’’—Jesus.10 

Hindu Funeral Pile. ii 

Hindu “Open-Air’' Barber Shop.. 12 

Modern Plowing in the Orient. 13 

The Tower of Silence. 14 

Our Elephant Ride in India. 15 

Gospel Itinerating in India 16 

An Indian Kitchen. 17 

The Taj Mahl at Agra.18 

Samuel and David. 19 

An Elephant Stacking Timber, Burmah.20 

Fuji Mountain Worshiped in Japan.21 

The Greatest Idol in Japan.22 

Riding in a Jinrikisha 23 

A Holiness Bible School in Tokio.24 

Heralds of Holiness in Japan.25 

Preaching Beneath the Cherry Blossoms.26 

Grey-Hounds of the Pacific..27 

Taylor's High School for Girls, Poona, Ind. 28 

Hindu Boy.29 

Village Children.•. 30 






























A FOREWORD. 


It was an epochal day in the history of the mod¬ 
ern holiness movement in the South, when Rev. W. 
B. Godbey, the noted scholar, preacher and traveler, 
in company with evangelists Edward and John Rob¬ 
erts, and Allie Irick started around the world to 
preach full salvation from sin to the lost multitudes 
in the great mission fields, especially in India and 
I Japan. The Holy Spirit guided this group of faithful 
j men in a most remarkable manner. Everywhere their 

I labors were crowned with success.-They were 

; not only made a blessing to the unconverted heath- 
I en, who with joy listened to their word of life, bitt 
! were a great blessing to the missionaries who re- 
I ceived from them the gospel of entire sanctification. 

' After an extended tour abroad, they returned to 
their native land to stir the hearts of the holiness 
people on the all important subject of missions. There 
seems to be, and doubtless is a Divine order in the 
holiness movement. When the revival broke out, lirst 
of all the camp meeting sprung up. Second, the hol¬ 
iness paper. Third, the holiness school, and, fourth, 
the missionary movement. In proportion as the spirit 
of missions and a burning zeal for the salvation of the 
regions beyond takes hold of the holiness people, will 
the great revival of full salvation spread. 

Bro. Irick, in order to kindle and spread this holy 
zeal, has written, and sends forth this book, giving an 
account of their journeyings and work in the various 
mission fields. 

May the blessing of God attend it, and rest upon 
those who puruse its pages. 


H. C. Morrison. 







DEDICATION. 


To the millions who are “sitting in darkness, and in 
the shadow of death/’ and to the saints scattered 
abroad, who are laboring for the evangelization of the 
world with a full gospel, and to hasten the return of 
our Redeemer and King, is this volume prayerfully in¬ 
scribed by the author. 

Dec. i8, 1906. 






CHAPTER I. 


FAREWELL MEETINGS. 

There is nothing that so stimulates and arouses the 
spirit of world-wide evangelism as the operating pow¬ 
ers, so manifest in the modern holiness movement. 

The forward trend, the aggressive spirit and the 
triumphant labors of present-day developments, only 
prove the possibilities which invite the advancing 
host. 

It has been our sacred honor to have labored in re¬ 
vival work in many States and in Canada, meeting with 
most satisfying results in the salvation of many hun¬ 
dreds. But it was during the sessions of a State camp¬ 
meeting, where “great grace was upon all,’’ and grac¬ 
ious manifestations of the great Spirit on “Missionary 
Day,” during a sermon upon the “great harvest field, 
its ripeness, the possibility and opportunity for this 
generation,” preached by a young but very devout 
man, that the burden, the conviction and call of my 
journey was clearly given and out-lined. We meekly 
bowed, prayerfully responded, and cheerfully accepted 
heaven’s command. 

Four years of incessant and fruitful evangelistic 
labors passed, but our call and convictions remained. 
Meantime a chain of Divine Providence had made it 
possible for our departure on this adventurous journey. 

Having a full camp-meeting slate, covering a large 
area, and the time of our leave so near at hand, we 
cancelled some of the out-lined program, and began to 

7 


8 


A JOURNEY 


conduct missionary rallies, and hold farewell meetings 
preparatory to our departure. 

Thus began a new epoch of ministerial activities 
in our life—that of laboring exclusively in the interest 
of foreign missions. 

During camp-meetings held in Indiana, Michigan, 
Rhode Island, Pennsylvania and other States, where 
great victory crowned our labors, we had special meet¬ 
ings, connected with our proposed tour. It was in 
these services that the conviction and certainty of our 
call was made clear and impressive. 

The diversity of denominational proclivity, and the 
corresponding Christian unity and congenial fellow¬ 
ship, was manifest. Our hearts were gladdened, 
thrilled and inspired as we labored among the Friends, 
Evangelicals, Holiness Christians, Pentecostals, Bands, 
Associations, just as easy as with our own Church, the 
Methodist Church. 

Our farewell rallies, held in Providence, R. I., Bir¬ 
mingham, N. Y., Chicago, Upland, Ind., Indianopolis, 
Connersville, Cincinnati, Philadelphia, Brooklyn, and 
New York City, were all greatly crowned with power. 

As our world-wide tour was not under the direction 
of a Church Committee, and as we had no financial 
fund upon which we could lean for support, and no 
private endowment to provide for our expense, hence 
it became absolutely necessary for us to receive public 
free-will offerings, to make it possible for our launch¬ 
ing out on this perilous journey. 

The people were cheerful and responsive, thus 
availing themselves of the opportunity of going to the 
mission field by proxy. Such is all giving, going, do¬ 
ing or daring, sending and sharing, preaching and 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


9 


pressing in behalf of evangelizing the world—it is 
going in person, though it be another who hastens 
away to the field of glorious operations. Thus the 
work and the workers are inseparably related and 
beautifully connected. Such is the plan so clearly out¬ 
lined in the Pentecostal program given in the Acts of 
the Apostles—very intricate and highly productive. 

During our “Farewell Campaign,” we met hun¬ 
dreds of saintly characters, useful spirits, intellectual 
giants, spiritual heroes, and withal mighty men and 
women, who are belting the lands, with powerful in¬ 
fluences, healthy and wholesome examples, and who 
are leading triumphant lives, and whose minds and 
pens are sending out broad-cast, sound and needful 
literature. 

They are also keeping pace with the rapid develop¬ 
ments of the grand missionary movements, which arc 
so strikingly characteristic of mighty spiritual epochs, 
such as those which shook the foundations of national 
corruption, social impurity, lifeless formality and uni¬ 
versal apathy in days gone by. Thank God, the power 
that prevailed then, is now moving, melting, arousing 
and creating anew, and great triumphs, of which we 
get glimpses as we study the problem in the dawning 
light, await the advancing army. 

The agitating and invigorating issue of world-wide 
evangelism, which is so apparent, is more eagerly the 
result of ^he pentecostal experience than was appre¬ 
hended by a large bulk of the modern holiness move¬ 
ment, until of recent years. But it is dawning upon 
the great movement that the paramount consequence 
of “The Baptism with the Holy Ghost and fire,” 
(“They were filled—and began” missionary opera- 


10 


A JOURNEY 


tions,) is our sacred privilege, our blessed possibility 
and our binding obligation, relative to the Church at 
home, to the fields abroad, to a lost world, and more 
directly relative to our ascended Lord. 

Thus, our stay in the home-land was gradually 
being shortened, but our labors were abundant and 
fruitful, in the salvation of souls, in the response to our 
needs, and in the conviction and call of several talents 
from a life of apparent ease, comfort and self-content¬ 
ment, to a career of usefulness, though fraught with 
persistent toil and fierce opposition. They will have 
limited social environments; amid vain philosophies, 
senseless and lustful superstitions, pagan worship¬ 
ers, and the sad tramp of unsaved and unreached mil¬ 
lions. 

Our cause became the common concern, problem 
and burden of those with whom we were associated, 
and such should be the immediate result of all where 
this sacred gospel is proclaimed or professed through¬ 
out this vast nation of ours. For such purpose to be 
over-looked, over-run and finally thwarted, is a 
triumph of hell, resulting from the sad lack of proper 
and systematic association and co-operation among our 
holiness representatives in the home-land. 

With the kindness shown us by Rev. A. J. Dolbow, 
of Wilmington, Del., we were invited to the great 
camp of the Holiness Christian Church, located just 
outside Philadelphia. It was here that such manifes¬ 
tations of God’s power thrilled our souls, and as at the 
preceding and with the following places, our labors 
were not in vain. 

The campaign closed with a service in a church 
located in the heart of great New York City. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


II 


CHAPTERIL 

THE DEPARTURE—ITS SIGNIFICANCE. 

We had a burning conviction and a definite call, 
fanned into a flame of unquenchable determination, 
augmented by the triumphs and travels of four years 
since our becoming deeply conscious of our Master’s 
will concerning such an understanding as we were pre¬ 
paring to assume. 

The day, the occasion and the facts connected with 
departing from our native land were eagerly and anx¬ 
iously longed and looked for. 

There are many things connected with an occasion 
like this that will be impossible to numerate. 

We were deeply conscious of many things which 
had confronted us previous to our fixed purpose rela¬ 
tive to this extensive journey. Our unparalleled labors 
with heaven’s blessings upon them, the open doors, the 
clamour for our humble services, and the magnitude 
of the growing work—all this we well knew we must 
break away from, for a season at least. 

Still keen problems faced us, such as, 

'‘Don’t you think this trip is a little premature, and 
should be postponed to some future period?” 

“How can you venture upon such an undertaking 
without some Board or fund to stand back of you?” 

And again, “Have you taken into account the epi¬ 
demics, plagues, famines, the exposures and the perils 
by land and sea with all of which you will come in 
contact?” 


12 


A JOURNEY. 


Regardless of these and other things we were ena¬ 
bled to exclaim with that great missionary apostle, 
“None of these things move me.” 

We are more ably prepared now to announce as we 
then felt in some measure that such conviction, deter¬ 
mination and settled problems are more—mean more, 
cost more and amount to infinitely more then and for¬ 
ever afterward, than does sentiment or mere enthus¬ 
iasm. 

If opposition fierce and persistent could have turn¬ 
ed our cause, the blessings received by saying “Yes” 
to the question “Who will go for us ?” would have been 
forever lost, our heart would have missed the joy felt 
for four years by declaring continually and unswerv¬ 
ingly “Here am I, send me.” 

Neither would it have been possible for us to have 
participated in the blessed seasons which characterized 
our farewell rallies, nor have known the overwhelm¬ 
ing victories that crowned our hearts and hands durin^^ 
our journey in the Orient. It is best to have convic¬ 
tions, determinations and fixed purposes of the right 
and worthy kind, and then stand true. 

A number who journeyed with us from Philadel¬ 
phia to New York, who also participated in our two 
last rallies, above mentioned, were among the throng 
of human faces that formed a picture that will forever 
hang upon the walls of undying memory. 

Many were the problems that demanded our time 
and attention, especially those which refer to our em¬ 
barkation. 

One forgets that he is in the center of such a 
metropolis as New Work, amid towering steel build¬ 
ings, thronging thoroughfares, mammoth business 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


13 


blocks, magnificent hotels, and her iflying elevators, the 
lovely parks, and great centres of culture. Not far dis¬ 
tant is that world-renowned “Wall Street,” but which 
called and perhaps does assume another name, by 
which the nature and character of its operations 
could be more easily comprehended. Then the great 
docks, shipyards, and the ocean-liners coming from 
many distant shores, and others now sounding the time 
of their departure—again one hardly realizes that he is 
in the midst of such commercial, national, social, polit¬ 
ical and moral—not to say immoral—confusion, when 
completing his plans for foreign travel. But as our 
time is limited, our hands are full and we must make 
all necessary arrangements indispensable to oriental 
journeying. Thus it behooves mortal men, possessing 
immortal souls, to make all preparations befitting to 
their voyage across the ocean of life and out into that 
distant land, from whence no traveler has ever re¬ 
turned. 

The currency was exchanged for circular notes of 
equal value, which are good anywhere. Do you catch 
the point, reader? One has just the same in the orient 
(providing he doesn’t dispense with it) as he had be¬ 
fore changing his locality. Do you appreciate the 
philosophical and theological truth contained in this 
little piece of prose? 

The garments needful for ocean voyage and for 
continental Europe were also procured. 

This is sound sense, when we come to do and deal 
with common and natural things. Well, why not em¬ 
ploy the same, yea that exceedingly needful agent, in 
the preparation for our final departure, and live on a 
good basis; then have a foundation upon which to die. 


14 


A JOURNEY 


and be forever conscious that all things needful in eter¬ 
nity were procured during life? 

It was Tuesday afternoon, August 29, 1905, that 
our little company gathered in the headquarters of 
Thos. Cook & Sons, on Broadway, where we had a 
blessed time. It was here that business matters were 
all adjusted and everything completed, and all were 
furnished with tickets, passports, currency notes and 
a fairly good understanding was now granted each one. 
Thus our minds were relieved and we were free again. 

We spent the last night on American soil in a 
service in Bethel church, located in “greater New 
York.’’ This was a fitting service, one of great grace 
and power. 

A gracious stream of light and salvation flows out 
from this small, but powerful congregation. A lesson 
worthy of our note and adaptation. 

Wednesday, August 30, 1905, was an eventful occa¬ 
sion, one that held our hearts in growing anticipation 
and swelling expectancy. 

With our baggage marked and checked, the state¬ 
room secured, luggage carried and located in what was 
to be “our dwelling” for one week, we marched from 
the steamer’s ticket office onto the great platform, 
where were a multitude of friends and loved ones to¬ 
gether with the stranger, and thoughtless, careless 
crowd. 

At 9:30 a. m., the first gong sounded, which indi¬ 
cated that one-half hour was all the time we had to 
remain on American soil. 

It is remarkable how much can be said, and with 
what force, in such limited time and space, and to know 
the decided effects such will produce. One generally 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


15 


says their best, and not a few say their worst, when 
their time and place bear limited allotment. You re¬ 
member one's conduct in the garden, though it was 
a kiss, then our Master required of him to make haste 
and accomplish his purpose. Still others breathe 
words in their final separation upon which a nation 
can build their laws of administration, or upon which 
the Church of the living God can and will survive the 
terrific onslaughts of hell, and they can “never pre¬ 
vail." 

In such brief intervals one invariably leaves off all 
their superfluities, things that never contribute real 
value and force, whether that be preaching the gospel 
or in any matter “pertaining to life or godliness." 

The crowds are gathering on and around our majes¬ 
tic steamer, for the time has well-nigh arrived for our 
sailing. 

The scenes which surround a ship, laden with 
friends and loved ones as they weep, waving their little 
white flags, and with those last and parting tokens, 
culminating in sobs, and deep sighs. With relatives 
embraced and with that affectionate and gentle kiss, 
the choking voice, tear-stained face, and with the very 
air almost rending with that shouting of “good-bye," 
“God bless you,'’ then the waving of hands, banners 
and tear-stained handkerchiefs, all these form a picture 
furnished to our mental vision which will linger ineffa- 
ceably and bespeak more than tongue is able to tell or 
language to depict. 

The last and long gong is now sounding. See! the 
hurrying of the ship’s crew, hear their cries as they 
loosen and take up ropes and anchor, the commander 


i6 


A JOURNEY 


orders, and the decks are cleared of everything and 
everybody, not prepared for this ocean voyage. 

Now hear: “Lift the gang-plank,” “Loosen the 
rope,” then with a tap of the steamer’s great bell, the 
ponderous engines start, the mighty propellers revolve 
and hurl the mud and water, while our stately old 
ocean queen steadily but certainly moves forward. 

The keen and ear-splitting voice of that massive 
whistle now tells us that we are free from the shore, 
and that all ropes, lines and connections are entirely 
disconnected and we are bound for some other clime, 
upon whose shores we hope to safely land one week 
hence. Such an expression as the last, had it been made 
some few years ago, would have received severe 
criticism, even laughed at. But you see, we are living 
amid the wonderful revelations of progress. 

Who can tell, what the next half century will re¬ 
veal? 





LE CAIRE. — Pyramide de Cheoos 


Pyramid of Egypt 










1 



i4L 



’ROUND THE WORLD. 


17 


CHAPTER III. 

OUR OCEAN VOYAGE. 

There are laws existing—good and great, that must 
be wisely observed, and they cannot be lost sight of, 
or run over in a rough manner, for instance, that of 
preparations for a journey. Without this one will be 
stranded and fail in the accomplishment of their de¬ 
sign. Such was the case cf one person who was bent 
on joining our company round the world. 

But upon investigation, he had no ticket, no money, 
no passport, and no understc ding with the ship’s com¬ 
pany, consequently he failed to get any sort of audi¬ 
ence or standing with the officials, and remained on the 
shore and was denied passage, though willing to work 
nis way on board the ship. 

This has some prominence in the Scripture, but is 
briefly explained as ^'zeal not according to knowledge.” 

We turn our faces toward the metropolis of the Oc¬ 
cident, and gaze upon the multitudes thronging on the 
wharfs. 

We point out dear Sister Storey (now in heaven) 
and many others “who accompanied us to the ship.” 

Now they are singing “God, be with you till we 
meet again”—it never sounded so sweet to our hearts— 
the very earth trembled with the chorus of that great 
throng. After the melody had died away, then the 
crew and passengers on board our ocean vessel swell¬ 
ed the chorus of “That will be glory tor me.” Then, 
to cap the climax, after this was finished, our little 


i8 


A JOURNEY 


band of four, shouted back the chorus, “You may look 
for me, for I’ll be there, glory, glory to His name.” 

Now, all faces had faded from our view, the great 
“sky-scrapers” stood lifting their lofty heads high in 
the heavens. 

Our hearts are full, our voices seemed choked, our 
eyes fairly flow with tears, and our souls are drawn 
out in deep meditation and sweetest pleasures, known 
only in secret devotion. 

It is cool and cloudy, the fogs are settling down 
over America’s greatest seaport, just like a pall of 
death. 

Soon all the faces and forms of friends who arc 
waving, and shouts of loved ones, are all enveloped 
within New England’s mist. 

We are now out in the Bay, steaming toward the 
surging sea. Now, fades from our eager gaze such 
mammoth structures as “The World,” “The Park- 
Row” and the “Astor House.” 

Our vessel is applying her steam a little heavier 
and her speed is increasing. The great city is grow¬ 
ing small, and dim as we glide farther away. 

“The Statue of Liberty,” which stands out in the 
Bay, with her high and noble face pointing towards us, 
seems to say, “Don’t forget the land of liberty, the 
home of the brave, and the greatest republic that exists 
beneath the sun.” 

And we wanted to shout back, “Please accept our 
deepest admirations, our most loyal allegiance and be 
assured of our strictest fidelity and greatest love for 
thy law, thy government and thy great Common¬ 
wealth.” Thus we sailed away, with such impressions 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


19 


thrilling our minds, and with a prayer in our hearts 
for our loyalty to Jesus and His kingdom. 

Do you think we were impressed with anything 
unfitting, as our nation gives common rights, which, if 
properly recognized, will insure peace and prosperity? 

We passed Sandy Hook, where our great *‘Men-of- 
War’’ are drilled and great naval feats are frequently 
executed. This is essential now in order to be able to 
cope with other great nations of the earth—military 
and naval feats are not the stepping-stones to the high¬ 
er civilization and general progress of nations in many 
instances chronicled on the pages of their history, but 
many times, are the product of anything else but hostil¬ 
ities. 

The truth which we wish to make plain, may be 
illustrated thus: There appeared in her royal presence 
a young prince from some Asiatic tribe, and upon his 
inquiry, “What gave to Great Britain her power, 
strength, peace and prosperity?’’ (thinking of her 
great fleet and army, also of her wealth and culture) 
that illustrious Queen Victoria lifted from the side of 
her mighty throne a copy of the Bible, and softly said, 
“Here is the secret of Great Britain’s power and pro¬ 
gress.” 

It was well stated. A national respect for and ob¬ 
servance of the fundamental laws of the Most High 
will secure national peace and progress; the spirit of 
industry and commerce will grow and cause this na¬ 
tion or any other to be the subject of the world’s ad¬ 
miration. 

It is no wonder that England has furnished some 
of the greatest preachers and spiritual reformers that 
have appeared upon the arena since the days of the 


20 A JOURNEY 

Apostles. Reverence and love for Gods Word is the 
secret. 

The shores of the home-land have faded from our 
view. Nothing but a surging sea greets our enrap¬ 
tured gaze—the wondrous ocean, with her boisterous 
waves and splashing billows. 

Our steamer is the '‘Tuetonic” of the White Star 
line. She is more than five hundred feet long, her 
tonnage is ii,ooo and her horsepower is 10,000. She has 
on board more than one thousand passengers, ranging 
from the first class down to the steerage company, the 
larger per cent, being the latter. 

Our speed averages about twenty miles per hour. 

Our traveling companions consist of three—Dr. W. 
B. Godbey, of Perryville, Ky., Revs. John and C. E. 
Roberts, of Pilot Point, Texas. 

We retire to our staterooms, and dedicate them to 
our God, and pray that His everlasting arms shall hold 
the ship and preserve the passengers from storm and 
death. 

Our hearts are sweetly assured of His presence and 
protecting care, for He who wal-ked on the stormy 
crest of long ago, still reigns and rules both in heaven 
and on land and sea. 

So -we fear no evil, and we rest sweetly in His bless¬ 
ed control. 

Now begins our life on the ocean. It is all new 
and awkard to us, but of course we soon find the key 
to all the combinations, and soon get adjusted to all 
the circumstances, and settle down, feeling at home. 

After a few hours of rapid sailing we suddenly 
cross out of the Bay Waters into the ocean currents, 
and the transition is of such a character that one is 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


21 


keenly conscious of the operation, for they command 
rather than request your most candid consideration. 

The vessel begins her trembling and quivering, 
technically denominated as “dexterical motion,” and 
one would almost conclude that it was changing its 
name, but not altering its value by calling it the “hys¬ 
terical emotion,” which vocation soon demands your 
most loyal (but not loving) devotion. 

The “swell,” as it is called by the sailors, is now 
testing our fortitude and ability to master the perplex¬ 
ing situation. 

Just as the vessel plunged across the border-line 
that so distinctively separates the coast waters from 
the surging sea-currents, some exclaim, “What causes 
this awful trembling and heaving of our ship?” The 
answer was, that we were now out at sea, and the swell 
and currents of the ocean produced those sighs and 
groans of our tossing steamer. 

Night is on, and we spend our first night on the old 
ocean. The magnificence and inexpressible beaii^tV 
of the clear heavens is a scene well-nigh transporting 
to the eyes and soul. 

Millions of twinkling stars from the first magni¬ 
tude, to the tiny little dazzling speck. Then the soft 
moon-light, falling gently upon the bosom of the trou¬ 
bled deep, which seems to kiss away its angry spray 
and whisper: “Be still.” 

Next day is the Sabbath, and we are anxious to 
know what will be the order of the sacred day, out on 
the raging watery domain. 

As we had conceded that, as a rule, all seamen or 
sailors, constitute that rough, thoughtless, careless 
and Christless mass of men who are aecustomed to 


22 


A JOURENY 


storms, death-scenes, dark pictures and horrible sights, 
the common conclusion would be that very few gen¬ 
uine Christians would be found among this throng of 
men, who would stem the tide of worldliness, immoral 
conduct, and all sorts of wicked indulgences. But in 
this, one is surprisingly and joyfully informed to the 
contrary. 

Divine services were conducted by the English 
clergyman, as this was an English steamer, and of 
course the service was of the High Church order. Na¬ 
turally, we who had been used to our more simple but 
pleasant manner of worship, became somewhat em¬ 
barrassed, and rather confused to know "'when, how, 
and where,” as we were not accustomed to "the books.” 
But amid it all, we lost sight of the litany and "printed 
prayers,” and opened our heart, caught a fresh vision 
of Jesus, and departed finm that morning devotion 
with a larger conception and a stronger faith in "the 
gospel, which is the power of God unto salvation”— 
a point one can adapt himself to in most any kind of 
condition, and remain inexpressibly happy and con¬ 
tent, if his heart is right. 

The days come and go, but they are full of events 
of endless variety, diverse in character and meaning. 

The sea becomes rough and merciless from the hu¬ 
man standpoint. 

One who could survive the ravages of a rolling 
ocean, could accumulate enough material for an inter¬ 
esting essay, but perhaps if delivered in some locali¬ 
ties, it might change the mind of some "ambitious 
Freshman,” or effect a radical change upon the enthus¬ 
iastic trend of "the energetic Sophomore.” 

If you are able to out-ride and live over the terrors 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


23 


of sea-sickness, you will have time and opportunity to 
see some things, that will remain stamped indelibly 
upon your memory. 

Should you prove to be a hero (for such you would 
be) and escape the misery of ocean-illness, you will 
have your sympathies taxed to their fullest capacity as 
you behold the touching scenes. But alas! as is the 
case most everywhere else, mere sympathy or human 
sentiment don't avail much nor atone for such an as¬ 
saulting malady. 

You will notice on board the ship when she first 
steams out of harbor, the gay, the proud, “the upper- 
tendums," the “bon-tons" and representatives of “the 
four hundreds" street, and carry the air of royalty and 
nobility, but you watch these society dolls and dudes, 
when the old vessel begins to groan, to roll and pitch 
like some western broncho, and when the angry bil¬ 
lows begin to rise, leap and surge against our ship, 
and the wild waves sweep over the hurricane deck, 
then you will notice the extra coat of paint, powder and 
superfluity of curls and other things all fade and van¬ 
ish. Very strange. Don’t you think so? 

Oh! how invigorating and wholesome is it to get 
out early, stand upon the upper deck, and throw back 
your shoulders and breathe deep and long until you 
fill your lungs with the good, pure, fresh, salty sea- 
breeze. There are a great many who should get out, 
open up their chest and inhale the fresh air, and then 
with meekness breathe a spirit of prayer and praise 
unto their Lord and Master for His tender mercies over 
them, and for His smiles and gracious blessings upon 
the work of their hands, upon their families and their 
entire land. 


-4 


A JOURNEY 


There would not be so much murmuring, complain¬ 
ing or general fault-finding, but a spirit of gratitude 
and appreciation would cause the glory of the Church 
to shine, and the power of its faithful members to be 
felt the earth around. 

Reader, which is your choice in the matter? Your 
life proves the selection. 

On an ocean voyage one has the opportunity for 
study, reflection and investigation as the various class¬ 
es, colors and conditions of our race pass the gaze. 

The old, venerable, saintly and thoughtful, then the 
strong, sturdy, robust, healthy and vigorous. Next 
the young, gleeful, active, cheerful and amusing, and 
the “Big Alexs,” ‘‘Know-it-alls,’’ over-bearing, assum¬ 
ing, attractive; the “Bell-sheep,” the hasty, thoughtless 
and careless youngster; then there is that little busy¬ 
body, rattle-box, flirting and flippant, with but little 
taste for quietness, steady, gentle manners, or for those 
beatitudes belonging to the graceful and beautiful 
Christian womanhood. 

Then there asserts itself that foul-mouthed, ill-man¬ 
nered, uncultivated, tobacco-fiend with his colleagues, 
such as card-players, dice-throwers, wine and whiskey 
soaks. 

But amid such a babel of characters as you come 
in contact with on such voyages as this, you will also 
observe the employed, studious, thoughtful, diligent, 
reserved, unassuming and saintly characters. What 
a benediction they are, and what lasting blessings they 
leave upon you, either on land or sea. Reader, to which 
company do you belong? 

The fog-horn blows twice each minute. It sounds 
so lonely, doleful and like some funeral-knell. How 



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25 


blessed to have the constant assurance that no fog 
over-hangs the soul’s horizon, but all is transparent 
and clear. 

The days are swiftly passing, and we are enroute 
to the land of our fathers and mothers—for England 
is our mother. 

We have traveled now nearly three thousand miles 
on the great Atlantic since viewing land. 

At midnight, September 5, we call at Queenstown, 
Ireland, but don’t tarry long, so we are out again, on 
the trackless deep. 

Now our enraptured gaze falls and feasts upon the 
blue-looking hills of Wales on one side, and the bold 
and bare rocky steeps of Ireland on the other, and the 
scenes are imposing. 


26 


A JOURNEY 


CHAPTER IV. 

LIVERPOOL—LONDON. 

As we study the progress and speed of the world’s 
civilization, we are at sea to know how to speak, where 
and what to say, unless it be a quotation from the 
sacred Scriptures, “that men shall run to. and fro and 
knowledge shall increase.” 

We remember from history that Columbus was 
two months in crossing the same expanse of water 
that we spanned in one week and less. 

A restrospective view of the world’s progress on 
the subject of navigations well-nigh startles, and what 
can be expected during the next century should our 
Lord tarry? 

Just think, from the little row-boats to the majestic 
“floating palace,” from the little tow-boat to the mon¬ 
ster of the sea. And then think of their speed, from 
sixty days to only seven in crossing the very same 
waters, and who knows but the time is near at hand 
when it will be possible to cross the ocean—not in a 
steam-ship—but in an air-ship, not requiring three or 
four days for the journey? 

Now our vessel sails proudly and stately into one of, 
if not the finest ports in the wide world—Liverpool. 

At our right stand aloft the same majestic hills of 
dear old Ireland, while away to our left rising high are 
the beautiful mountains of Wales, with their blue cov¬ 
ered slopes and towering summits. 

Now the sea-gulls come out to greet and give us a 


‘ROUND THE WORLD. 


27 


wide welcome to British soil by following after our ves¬ 
sel to catch the falling crumbs and refuse. You appre¬ 
ciate the sight of most anything, as your eye grows 
tired of skirting the ever-rolling ocean, and it craves 
for some object to gaze upon. 

There is a certain kind of Land-gull” which fol¬ 
lows along after the glorious “ship Zion,” and search¬ 
es “for loaves and fishes.” That is their only motive 
and purpose in life, and of course, they succeed in their 
attempt. 

The water has become muddy and murky, indi¬ 
cating that land is nigh. This truth certainly holds 
good as applied in the spiritual sense.—Muddy water 
evidenced in the Christian’s religious flow, bespeaks 
of his close relation to the foul soil of carnality. 

Our passengers are all out in their best clothes, and 
with their best looks, and you know when “folks try” 
they can actually appear as if they possessed a super¬ 
abundance of a general variety. 

O how different the general appearance of those 
who are so easily changed from that description, ex¬ 
pression and condition manifest among this company, 
when the storm-king was upon his throne, and was 
swaying his sceptre of authority over the sea, over the 
steamer and especially over its company, and as you 
look at them now you would almost conclude that we 
had a new company of passengers on board. But no, it 
is the same identical crowd, but with new appearance. 
Perhaps you have noticed this in different places than 
among a steamer’s cargo. Do you recall at Church 
or at home? 

Now what is that? Look yonder! What is it? Oh! 
it is that great city that all cotton-growers, speculators, 


28 


A JOURNEY 


and cotton-thieves know just so intimately as did the 
Jews know of Jerusalem, or the Hindus know of 
Benares, or the wool-growers and sellers know of 
Lowell, Mass., or as the commercial world knows of 
“Wall street”—well, it is Liverpool, that city of cot¬ 
ton, and yet none grows there; but it evidently goes 
there. 

Millions and millions of bales raised in our broad 
southland are exported there, and made up into fabric, 
and imported back to us, at imported prices, just as 
though we could not build our own mills, use our own 
material, consume our own product, ai'id keep all this 
money in circulation in our own prosperous land, at 
the same time giving plenty of work to thousands of 
our poorer classes, who otherwise don’t get it, as the 
situation appears today. 

Why not every county in our great cotton sections, 
own and operate their cotton-mill, and be a scene of 
great operation and development, for the welfare of 
our Southern commonwealth? 

We are having some demonstration on this very 
needy enterprise of recent years, only suggestive of 
what will follow in the near future. 

Liverpool is said to have the finest seaport and 
harbor to be found. We notice that there is a large 
steamer just waiting our entrance into port that they 
may launch out en route for America’s fair shores. 

It is the “Baltic” belonging to the same company, 
owning ours. She is the largest steamer of the Atlan¬ 
tic, whose capacity is 24,000 tons, and she has on board 
three thousand passengers, bound for the LTnited 
States. 

Now, you see where the tide of imigration leads, 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


29 


we had only one thousand on board for Europe, and 
that ship had thrice that number en route for the 
States. 

Do you understand why? 

You will observe great commercial vessels and 
merchant crafts swarming in and out of this great port, 
I laden with cargo for many foreign shores. 

Our huge vessel goes up alongside of the wharf, and 
the gang-plank is lowered amid the ringing of bells, 
blowing of whisles, flying of flags and shouting of sail¬ 
ors and enthused passengers. We devoutly thank 
the Lord, for His blessed care and keeping as we roll¬ 
ed over the briny deep, and soon with our luggage in 
hand, we step out and down from the faithful old ship 
on to the pier. Then we hurry away to the custom 
house and find the letter, corresponding with our name. 
There we place our luggage, and soon a man, with the 
air of an Englishman, appears on the scene, and pro¬ 
ceeds to search our belongings. As a rule they don’t 
spare, but just wade right in and they soon know just 
what you have, and if you possess anything “dutiable,” 
it will be found, and an account of such must be made. 
If you have nothing of this sort, your baggage will be 
marked accordingly. Then you are “a free man,” and 
can do as you please, provided you behave yourself, 
just like you would if you were in Boston. 

We are in Liverpool at 5 o’clock, Wednesday after¬ 
noon, September 6, 1905. 

Many thanks to the good English officials who have 
charge of the inspecting department, for their ability, 
kindness and speed with which they dispatched their 
functions relative to our being liberated, in order to 


30 


A JOURNEY 


catch the “Grand Special,” which was w^aiting for all 
passengers bound for London. 

One is attracted at once with the quaint manner in 
which the houses are built and arranged. They are 
composed mostly of brick and built along the full 
length of a block facing the street and each house seems 
to be joined hard to the other. This is called in Brit¬ 
ish America, “Terrace,^' or a house composed of com¬ 
partments. 

This city is famous for its commercial activities, 
and its factories and mammoth foundries. 

Now the time has arrived for us to board “The Lon¬ 
don Flyer,” of the great Northwestern Railroad Sys¬ 
tem. The train runs alongside the wharf, and the pas¬ 
sengers step right off the steamer onto the train. It 
is very conveniently arranged. 

The bell rings and we start, en route to the great¬ 
est city beneath the sun. 

The engines in Europe are similar to ours, but with 
some striking differences. They are light compared 
to our ponderous moguls of the north. 

They are strongly constructed, and so built that 
their speed is hardly exceeded in any land. 

We averaged more than sixty miles per hour, and 
had but two stops between Liverpool and London, a 
distance of 250 miles. 

The coaches are composed of compartments, or 
cut-off rooms, throughout the coach. 

These coaches generally have a plank running along 
the entire length of the car, on either side, and there 
are doors at each side of the compartment, opening 
from the outside, and each room has two rows of 
cushioned seats, which generally face each other, hence 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


31 


there are center aisles as we have in the States, but 
they enter and pass out at either end of their respective 
apartments. 

After about five hours of fairly flying, through 
beautiful meadows, excellent grain fields, and sweep¬ 
ing past many towns and quiet villages, we found our¬ 
selves right in the heart of great old London. 

We are surrounded by coachmen, cab-drivers, bag¬ 
gage-lifters, hotel-runners, paper-sellers, guides of all 
descriptions, and what not. Fortunately, we found the 
Randall hotel, right near Victoria station where we 
arrived. 

The blessing of perfect love is a wonderful sustain¬ 
ing, preserving and satisfying reality when thus literal¬ 
ly covered with rattling and clamouring tongues. 

It doesn't necessarily mean that perfect love ex¬ 
pects one to love this babel of annoying masculines, 
but one thing is very evident, and that is, in the midst 
of this roar and mass of human voices and outstretch¬ 
ed hands, one can be in a restful state of mind, with 
an unannoyed spirit, and great joy of soul, conscious 
of the fact, that there are no uprisings or misgivings, 
within. O, what a blessed experience known in Divine 
grace. 

We greatly appreciate our arrival and restful hours. 

Since our long voyage over the swelling, surging 
and boisterous ocean, we are glad to get where we can 
walk and not be zig-zaging about, and everything ap¬ 
pearing as though it were falling. It certainly is a 
relief to get on the earth and view things as they really 
exist. You see the trouble was not with the things 
visible, but it was with the one gazing. Do you compre¬ 
hend the truth implied therein? 


32 


A JOURNEY 


There can be an infirmity of the eye, which gives 
the various and diverse appearances to objects about 
us. Then there may be such a thing as an obstacle 
just in front of the pupil that will give to the paint¬ 
ing different coloring and shades from that which it 
really possesses. You will recall the cow, with her 
green goggles on. The result was she thought every¬ 
thing wore that kind of robe. You often hear declar¬ 
ed, *‘There are so many hypocrites in the Church, I 
can’t find the genuine Christian examples—it is all 
pretension or loud profession.” Again you hear so 
lustily proclaimed, “No one can be made holy during 
their sojourn in life—utterly impossible. No one can 
attain to such heights of Christian graces; I don’t be¬ 
lieve in it; and all this craze about holiness sought— 
obtained and experienced, is merely loud profession 
and agitating to our peaceful fold.” You see the trou¬ 
ble is with their visions. They can’t see the thou¬ 
sands and thousands who are living and walking in 
the blessed comforts of the Holy Ghost, and “are made 
partakers of His holiness,” and have the promise that 
“they might serve Him without fear in holiness and 
righteousness before Him all the days of our life.” Yet 
that man couldn’t see such blessed characters as our 
Lord has on earth and in the Church of today. 

Don’t forget that we are in London, the metropolis 
of the world, with a population of more than six mil¬ 
lion, and an annual increase of one hundred thousand. 

London is the hub of the world’s commercial and in¬ 
dustrial activity. It is like a wagon wheel—London 
forming the hub and the spokes (various enterprises) 
running in their ramifying directions to all points of 
the universe. 



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’ROUND THE WORLD. 


33 


It is here that the financial strength of Great Brit¬ 
ain—^yea, of Europe—is located, with “the Bank of 
England,” the oldest and richest bank in all the world. 
The vault of this bank is under-ground and is so pow¬ 
erfully constructed that it is securely fortified against 
all burglars, robbers, and even dynamiting. It is wall¬ 
ed with cement first, then stone, then a steel wall, and 
then the inner vaults. What if men prized their souls, 
their character, their homes and nation, as they do 
gold notes and national bonds; what a change would 
set in among the mass of judgment-bound immortals! 

As our time in London is so limited, we must hast¬ 
en about to even pay respect to the more important and 
historic places and objects of world-wide fame, not to 
mention the various and interesting features of this 
whirling, crowded, surging city of such profound pro¬ 
portions. 

The city is situated on the river Thames, about six¬ 
ty miles from the sea. It was founded about two thou¬ 
sand years ago by the Romans. 

It is irregularly built, but contains an immense 
number of magnificent buildings, parks, squares and 
places of historic interest. 

We at once launch out upon our exploration 
and investigation of the more important places and 
features of the city. 

The vision is bewildered with the scenes, filling and 
crowding the streets, thoroughfares, lanes, alleys and 
the by-ways. Not just one, or a few, but all alike are 
swarming, with busy and ambitious mortals. 

The car-lines are either under-ground or over-head 
which leaves the streets perfectly unincumbered for 
the tread of the countless throngs and for the dashing 


34 


A JOURNEY 


and prancing steeds as they sweep up and down draw¬ 
ing those great omnibuses which carry from twenty 
to forty passengers. 

We hurry away, to the royal cemetery of Great 
Britain—Westminster Abbey, the burial place of all 
royal dust of all nobles, worthies and illustrious per¬ 
sons. 

Unequalled in historical interest is Westminster 
Abbey, founded in the early part of the seventh cen¬ 
tury. Here all the sovereigns from Edward the Con¬ 
fessor to Edward the VII., the present King, have been 
crowned in the ancient coronation chair, whose famous 
stone seat was plundered from the Scotch by Edward 
I. 

The Abbey is built in the form of an irregular cross, 
and has two magnificent towers,- each 205 feet high. 

The architectural beauty, most especially of the 
interior can hardly be surpassed in all the world. 

As we pass down these royal halls or aisles, we un¬ 
cover our heads as we view the vaults, mausoleums, 
busts and slabs, that mark the silent dust of blood- 
royal nobility or famous characters of Church and 
State, stretching back many centuries past, but whose 
forms or sacred ashes lie here awaiting the sound of the 
resurrection trumpet to call them from their silent 
resting-place. 

We are awe-stricken and feel the solemnity of the 
hour, as we gaze upon the tombs or slabs of such illus¬ 
trious heroes and heroines as Burns, Gladstone, Eliza¬ 
beth, Cromwell, Livingston, the Wesleys, Gordon, 
Longfellow, Shakespeare, Stanley and Wadsworth, 
together with hundreds of mighty men and of deeds, 
that will continue to bless this old dying world. Then 


GROUND THE WORLD. 


35 


on the other hand, there reposes here the dust of hun¬ 
dreds whose lives and characters continue to work 
havoc upon the thronging multitudes of earth today. 
Such is the strange but powerful effect of influence. 

The great organ that produces such profound and 
melodious strains of music is hidden and its majestic 
tones roll up and down these towering domes and fin¬ 
ally die in yonder distant loft. 

Just beneath the illustrious names of the world- 
renowned such lines as these appear: “The world is my 
parish,” “The Lord buries His workmen, but carries 
on their work,” and lastly, “Best of all God is with us.” 
No need to mention names here. Sleep on, ye heralds 
of the cross! 

Just across the street, on the bank of the Thames, 
stands the House of Parliament, whose dimensions are 
of gigantic proportions; founded in 1840. It has a 
clock tower 300 feet high with a dial 30 feet in diama- 
ter. 

The tower of London is another place of thrilling 
interest, three miles distant from the Abbey, down the 
river. It is generally known as the Tower of Lon¬ 
don, but really it is a cluster of towers. The main 
building gives it the commonly-called name. 

This is the most celebrated citadel in all Europe. It 
stands close by the river, and has a deep moat and a 
lofty wall surrounding, and then surmounted with 
strong towers and encloses about twelve acres of land. 

The Tower of London has been in times past a 
palace, a prison, a mint, a fortress and a garrison, serv¬ 
ing now as the last named. It was founded by Wil¬ 
liam the Norman, about eleven hundred years ago. 

The history of this place is dark enough. It has 


36 


A JOURNEY 


been the scene of dark tragedies, wicked plots, blood¬ 
shed, sorrow, and untold suffering. Noble manhood 
and womanhood have sealed their faith with their 
blood, “Slain for the Word of God and the testimony 
which they held.” 

Not only are there to be found instruments of war 
and relics of by-gone days, but Great Britain’s Crown 
Jewels are stored here, and guarded day and night, 
with all precaution possible. 

We gaze upon these royal jewels which dazzle with 
gold, silver and all manner of precious stones, and 
think of the eternal “Crown that shall never fade away, 
reserved (kept in safety) in heaven for me.” 

You will notice, mounted upon his gallant war- 
steed Henry the Eighth, literally covered with shining 
steel, fortifying both man and horse from spear, arrow 
and the battle-ax. The modern invention of fire-arms 
and death instruments has thrown into eclipse the 
gallant pageant of many centuries forever gone. 

Our next point of interest is St. Paul’s Cathedral. 
The construction began 1675, and was founded by Sir 
Christopher Wren, at a cost of about one million five 
hundred thousand pounds, or about six million dol¬ 
lars. 

It is 404 feet high, the diameter of the dome is 100 
feet. There are 616 steps leading to the stone gallery 
under the golden cross. 

Inside the dome is the famous “whispering gallery.” 
You can hear a whisper one hundred feet away. 
When you are on the opposite side of the gallery from 
your guide, putting your ears close to the wall while 
the guide will softly whisper, “St. Paul’s Cathedral 
was built by Sir Christopher Wren, and it required 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


37 


over thirty years for its completion,” the sounds are 
quite loud and accents are distinct. Wonderful is the 
power of man when thus permitted of our Lord. 

The ponderous bell sends forth its deep and solemn 
tones. We enter the magnificent auditorium and hear 
one of England’s great divines, as he performed his 
usual functions fitting for their manner of worship, 
but we were charmed and overwhelmed with the 
mighty peals of that mammoth organ, hidden away 
back beyond those massive marble pillars. O, how 
rich, deep, powerful, and effective, were its tones. 

Now to the British museum we hurry—the largest 
and costliest one to be found. You will see the whole 
world in miniature. All ages and tribes both living 
and dead, spread out before your eyes, from the Egyp¬ 
tians, with all their compeers, down past the Roman 
and Barbaric ages, of all Asia, Africa and the two 
Americas. Millions of dollars have been spent in 
their research for the multiplied varieties of the 
worlds, animal and mineral, vegetable and physical 
species, all of which are to be found in the museums 
of London. 

Passing down by Trafalgar Square, you will ob¬ 
serve inscribed upon the great monument in large let¬ 
ters these words, ‘‘All in England are expected to do 
their duty.” An excellent motto. What if all preach¬ 
ers and lay members in the Church would adopt such 
as, ‘‘All in the Church are expected to do their duty.” 
Who could foretell the progress and triumph of her 
advancing host? 

Our eyes long to see “City Road Chapel,” a place 
well-known to all followers and lovers of Methodism. 
It stands back from the street about sixty feet, with 


38 


A JOURNEY 


a few shade-trees in front. You will recognize the 
statue of that hero for truth and holiness, standing 
high on a pedestal in front of the famous chapel. The 
church is plain, strong and commodious, possessing 
a seating capacity of fifteen hundred. 

We ascend the lofty, round pulpit, kneel and pray 
in the very place where that mighty man of faith and 
prayer would stir hell, shake the earth and receive aud¬ 
ience with the King on high, in his passionate sup¬ 
plications. 

At the front of the chapel, stands the Tomb of Mr. 
Wesley. We pass along a narrow yard and enter the 
square whose dimensions are about thirty by forty 
yards. This place is filled with tombstones. In the 
center is that of Mr. Wesley, and near him are the 
plain tombs of Joseph Benson, Adam Clarke and 
Richard Watson. Who can comprehend the glory and 
rewards, which will be granted these silent, sainted 
and illustrious worthies ? 

Time and space forbid our attempt of referring to 
the beautiful parks, lovely drives, the stately mansions, 
the royal palace, and the variety of London’s great 
institutions of learning, centres of culture, and enter¬ 
prises of philanthropy. 

The revival of full salvation has a sweep and swing 
here that is being felt throughout Continental Europe. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


39 


CHAPTER V. 

THE FRENCH REPUBLIC. 

There is a degree of embarrassment, not to say, 
amazement, which a traveler, especially whose notor¬ 
iety lays claim to the New World, feels while even in 
the continental portion of the Old World, as he at¬ 
tempts to carry on conversation with the people whom 
he thinks undoubtedly understand how to use and to 
appreciate the English dialect. 

Perhaps this is all true enough and needs no com¬ 
ment, but it is quite certain that it matters not how 
clear, plain and distinct one speaks his words, he is 
conscious by the expression, action and the question 
which they invariably propound to you that is: “I beg 
pardon?” more usually simplified by “Beg pardon?” 
This little harmless but new and quite annoying cus¬ 
tom, only serves to inform you that you were not well 
understood and you are kindly requested to repeat or 
readjust your form of expression. To illustrate: One 
evening in London we entered a restaurant, sat down, 
called for a menu card. This they didn’t have. Then 
we proceeded to name and call for what we wished. 
We had a problem on hand to make them understand 
just what we wanted, but finally we succeeded. When 
settling time came, we had even a more difficult time 
to pay for our meal, then after we had settled, to cast 
over us a shadow, which perhaps they thought we 
would be sorry of the rest of our days, they said, “O, 
yes, you are Americans.” To this we most cheerfully 
responded in the affirmative. 


40 


A JOURNEY 


Bidding the world’s great metropolis adieu, we take 
the train and hurry away. At night we change from 
the train to a steamer, and launch out to cross the 
English Channel, so famous for her storms and un¬ 
pleasant sailing the year round. 

Some of our party partake of a good meal; but ere 
our landing upon the other shore, many become so dis¬ 
turbed and actually become so generous as to ''cast 
their bread upon the waters”—leaving a blessing for 
the fish. 

It is late and the wind is high and cold. Soon our 
steamer begins rolling and trouble sets up among her 
passengers. For a while there was great hilarity— 
drinking and laughing on board, but even our "Watery 
Broncho” gets turned loose on those rolling billows, 
she snorts and groans as if death were approaching, 
then to a great extent that hilarity and reveling is 
turned into rolling, tossing, falling and a general com¬ 
motion. 

The boisterous and stormy characteristics of this 
channel are caused by the five different currents of 
wind ever sweeping upon its surging bosom. 

Soon we land, our baggage is inspected, and now 
onto a rapid train, bound for the prettiest city known 
—Paris. Most all the railroads are of the narrow- 
gauge system, but they are so constructed that their 
light weight and excellent road-bed insure you com¬ 
fort and speed that is hard to find east or west. 

By this time we are recovering from the fearful ef¬ 
fects that rough seas had upon the physical system, 
and can better appreciate the beautiful landscapes, 
with its rolling prairies, charming mountain peaks and 
sunny slopes, the clear flowing streams, and the thick- 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


41 


ly sprinkled towns and villages, with their stately 
trees, towering spires and gorgeous buildings. 

As we ride along through historic regions, memory 
is constantly employed, and recalls military heroism, 
moral and spiritual exploits, which command the 
world’s attention, though centuries have passed since 
their mighty deeds. 

We arrive in the capital and metropolis of the 
French Republic, whose population is now about three 
million, Paris is situated upon the banks of the mystic 
Seine. 

The city is built similar to a wagon wheel, with a 
grand circle from which spring and run in every direc¬ 
tion, great thoroughfares, street and boulevards, mak¬ 
ing it possible for the continuous enlargement of the 
city without altering the given plan. 

The streets are broad, clean, and beautiful, generally 
paved with stone or cement. The origin of the word 
“Boulevard,” which means “Avenue,” has its begin¬ 
ning here, and has been transported to the Western 
World, with great taste and delight. 

The more prominent of these thoroughfares, are 
Avenue Des Champs Elysus, Les Boulevards, and 
Boulevard De La Madeleine. 

They are wide, white, level and imposing. There 
is a place for vehicles to run in the center, then a row 
of stately trees on either side of this, then comes the 
side-walks on either side, then the beautiful lawns, and 
lastly, the cozy homes. This is a picture of the 
modern wealthy avenues of Paris. 

It is quite difficult, to walk on the side-walks in the 
central or business portions of the city, because of the 
hundred of little stands or tables, which sit out upon 


42 


A JOURNEY 


the pavements, where coffee, tea and wine, liquors and 
cold drinks are served. This is called “the cafe sys¬ 
tem,” better known as “the drinking system.” 

Paris has a wide-world fame for at least three 
things, namely, fine wines, fine music and proud wo¬ 
men. 

There are so many places of historic importance, 
also of artistic taste, we must give ourselves to inves- 
cigation of those most prominent. You are charmed 
with the architectural magnificence and the stately 
proportions of most all buildings erected either for 
Church or State. 

Beginning at the grand circle, from which ramify 
all the important streets, you will observe the Grand 
Opera—the largest and most costly of all the world. 
Then near-by is “The Grand Hotel,” the most spacious 
and magnificent hotel in all the earth, said to contain 
more than seven hundred rooms or apartments. Of 
course we didn't put up here, neither did we care for 
such pomp and vanity. 

Napoleon’s Tomb is our next point of Interest. It 
is said to be the finest structure of its kind existing. 
It rises from a base 147x75 feet, to a height of 162 feet. 
Its central arch is 48 feet broad and 95 feet high. 
Within, and upon the walls or columns, are inscribed 
in panoramic view, the many battles and triumphs giv¬ 
ing the names of 384 generals who fought during the 
Napoleonic age. 

This is one of the finest species of memorial ex¬ 
pression that we beheld either in America or in 
Europe. It was erected in 1706, at a cost of several 
millions. Just above the costly tomb of the silent war¬ 
rior shine from the various colored windows, rays of 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


43 


soft and different tinted light, falling quietly upon the 
many colors of rare stone and rich furniture, producing 
a rare picture and whose qualities are hard to be dupli¬ 
cated. The variety of window-colors, emitting light 
to fall upon the stones and paintings that make this so 
rich and rare. We stand here with our hats in our 
hands and our heads bowed, as we recall from history 
the powerful heroism that made his name a terror to 
the surrounding nations. The tomb is well fortified 
by a high Avail, with heavy artillery planted and with 
armed guards who patrol the grounds day and night. 

Notre Dame Cathedral is our next object. This 
cathedral is of gigantic proportions. Its architectural 
beauty and historic fame swing it into great promi¬ 
nence. It was founded by Pope Alexandra III., in 
1163, while the first building that stood on the same 
spot was erected in A. D. 365. 

Its present dimensions are 390 feet in length by 
144 feet wide, with two towers at the front, whose 
height is 224 feet. We heard music here, deep melo¬ 
dious and exceedingly effective. 

The "‘Triumphant Arch” was built to celebrate the 
triumphs of Napoleon during 1805 and 1806. It is 
adorned with sculpturing representing wars of the first 
empire. Champ de Mars has a splendid parade ground 
one thousand by five hundred yards. 

The Louvre, the national museum, said to possess 
some of as fine paintings as the world can produce. 

The chamber of deputies, or, the French Parliament 
House, is a handsome classical building, with Corin- 
than pillars and sculptured pediment. 

The Palace Royal, one of the most popular edifices 
of Paris. 


44 


A JOURNEY 


Time would fail us to pay written tribute to all the 
gorgeous Palaces, stately mansions and magnificent 
Emperial structures that abound in this city of im¬ 
mense wealth and fame. 

A\'e m'u3t not pass by the '‘Eiffel Tower,” which 
is constructed of steel, and which stands upon four 
legs, covering an area of about four acres, and whose 
summit ascends about one thousand feet high. You 
ascend by elevators; the top platform is surrounded 
and covered with glass. Upon this dizzy summit one 
gets a charming view of this great city and its en¬ 
virons, whose landscapes are simply imposing. 

The beautiful water of the Seine appears as a 
thread of silver. The spacious gardens, with their 
dense shade of green, and the national buildings of 
art, culture, history, church and state thickly dotting 
the river bank, and parks, and lovely drives, form a 
painting which hangs upon memory^s wall not soon 
to depart. 

You observe some things as you plod up and down 
the crowded streets of this "Queen of the East”—the 
populace love their wines, they delight in amuse¬ 
ment and recreation, their taste for fashion and dress 
is exceedingly attractive and apparent. As a rule all 
fashion-plates and society fads, have their birth in 
Paris, and then are sent out to all Europe and America. 

It is this city where all the famous (and maybe 
infamous, as far as the nature of the thing is con¬ 
cerned,) plays, dramas and fancy music, have their 
origin and then go up and down the earth wherever 
the drift of twentieth century society is rife. 

The Sabbath is scarcely noticed here by the bulk 
of the inhabitants. If anything there is more wine- 


’ROUxND THE WORLD. 


45 


drinking, theater-going (for many are open Sunday 
afternoon) pleasure-driving and general desecration 
than on other days. 

The population of the Republic is about forty 
million, her commerce reaches approximately about 
one billion dollars. Wines are the most important ex¬ 
port. She possesses a strong army and navy. 

France, was and is the hot-bed of infidelity and 
Romanism. But it is a most pleasant and inspiring 
truth that the gospel is pressing its way through those 
thick walls of unbelief, prejudice and superstition, and 
there are a number of churches and salvation missions 
planted in the heart of this city, which is given over to 
worship of Bacchus (the god of wine), and souls are 
being saved, and others are learning that "‘the blood of 
Jesus cleanses from all sin,” and it is possible for them 
to obtain a clean heart in this life. Mr. ^IcAll has 
about forty active and aggressive mission stations in 
this city, and the Lord is crowning them with blessed 
results. 

You will remember that the infidel Voltaire one 
time declared with all emphasis as he sat in his own 
house in the city of Paris, ""that one hundred years 
from now (when spoken) the Bible would be banished 
from the earth, Christianity would be repudiated, and 
the whole farce would be delegated as a relic of past 
ages.” 

What consummate ignorance is here revealed. This 
senseless prophecy has become the laughing stock for 
men and devils. Poor old Voltaire! He didn’t know 
that the very same house where he uttered the above 
blasphemous statement, has become a Bible depos¬ 
itory, where hundreds and thousands of Bibles and 


46 


A JOURNEY 


New Testaments are bought and sold each year. This 
is like the Church dignitary who most positively 
affirmed that "‘the modern fad known as the holiness 
movement will die and be heard no more inside of ten 
years time.” But you see he was short-sighted, unbe¬ 
lieving, prejudiced and uncharitable, for the great 
movement sweeps on with increasing power, speed 
and blessed fruitage, and that man’s name is nearly for¬ 
gotten. Who will know his name fifty years hence 
or who can describe the power, magnitude and success 
of the modern holiness movement at the expiration of 
the same time? 

We pray for the truth-loving, Christ-serving, 
heaven-seeking and sin-hating worthies whom we shall 
leave amid the millions in this great domain, where 
priest-craft, sin and the devil hold sway, that my Lord 
will continue His blessings upon the noble work of 
their lands and give them a countless throng of im¬ 
mortals, who will meet and greet them in “the city 
not made with hands,” and all may shout and shine 
around the eternal throne forever, for His name’s 
sake. Amen, 


GROUND THE WORLD. 


47 


CHAPTER VI. 

ROME—NAPLES. 

Having made an incomplete exploration of the 
French metropolis, with her imposing gardens, charm¬ 
ing parks, majestic palaces, beautiful squares and 
stately residences, we turn our faces toward the far- 
famed little nation of Italy. 

Our trains resemble those of England and dash 
along with most excellent speed. The scenery is 
lovely and we are ever delighted with the views of 
towering mountains, with their long slopes, carpeted 
with green and their lofty summits rising far above 
the clouds, and at times wearing a frosty cap, which 
makes them more majestic and grand. 

We are charmed with the ever-changing views of 
Italy’s splendid scenery. 

Suddenly our train dashes into the longest tun¬ 
nel in the world. This tunnel serves as a passagx; 
through the famous Alps, also forming a boundary-line 
between France and Italy. The distance through the 
entire tunnel reaches about eighteen miles and re¬ 
quires more than one half hour to make the run. It 
is a marvel to the engineering world. 

Now w^e are on Italian soil. On we go, flying 
around sharp curves, and creeping along frightful 
precipices, and leaping over sparkling brooks, fed by 
melting snows and never-failing springs, coming down 
through rugged chasms, and fearful gorges. Doubt¬ 
less, through this portion of Europe the mountain 


48 A JOURNEY 

scenery and lovely landscapes can't be excelled for 
beauty and glory. 

We arrive in Genoa, a city of two hundred and 
thirty-four thousand inhabitants, situated on the sea- 
coast, a very wealthy and prosperous city. 

Our vision is charmed as our train sweeps along 
the beautiful blue waters of the Mediterranean, as we 
are now en route for that old historic city, once called 
'‘The Eternal City,'^ and which at one time ruled the 
whole civilized world. 

We are flying along the sea-coast where vineyards 
stretch along with their loaded vines of finest fruits; 
as the old and familiar saying goes, “The vine-clad 
slopes of sunny Italy,” well describes what we wish to 
express. 

Early in the morning we arrive just outside the 
walls of Rome. A signal is given, and we are tendered 
a welcome into “The Mistress of the World”—old 
Rome. Our train halts, we pass out, and through the 
great station, and we are surrounded by a band of 
hotel-yellers, cab-drivers, relic-sellers, city-guides and 
what else we had no time to investigate. We lodge 
in “The Capitol Hotel.” 

Is it possible that we are in Rome, the home of the 
Caesars, and of the ancient warriors, statesmen, heroes 
and those gallant leaders who shook the whole world 
with their courage and power? Can it be possible that 
we are in a city which at one time had the world sit¬ 
ting at her feet, and whose glory and majesty filled the 
earth ? 

We are thrilled with scenery of ancient and 
historic importance. Our first place that demands our 
time and investigation is the Coliseum, founded by 


Wailing of the Jews. 













’ROUND THE WORLD. 


49 


Vespasian, and completed by Titus. It was in¬ 
augurated by gladitorial combats, continuing loo days, 
in which 5,000 wild animals were killed. The dimen¬ 
sions of this colossal structure are: in circumference 
1,800 feet, and two hundred feet high, and with seats 
slanting from a circle in the arena, 200 feet in diameter, 
running to the tops of the walls, forming a seating 
capacity of nearly one hundred thousand spectators, 
who would gather here from all parts of the king¬ 
dom to witness the horrible scenes, which would cause 
the cheeks of darkness to blush. 

This was sport to their cruel and merciless hearts. 
It was here that thousands and thousands of noble, 
meek, and loving Christians were devoured by fero¬ 
cious beasts, that had been starved for days in order 
that they would in an instant leap upon the inno¬ 
cent followers of our Lord, and tear them into mince¬ 
meat, all to gratify the Christless hearts of wicked 
emperors and infuriated rulers. 

Oh, how our hearts and minds revolted at the 
ghastly horrors that were carried on within these 
walls under the sanction of imperial gaze and author¬ 
ity! What will the Roman power and administration 
have to answer, when the judgment discloses their 
bloody plots and murderous hearts? 

It seems as if every stone, ruin, highway, and 
famous river wanted to tell you of some horrible 
crime that was committed near them, and we could 
read where there was no writing, and hear when 
there was no voice speaking. This is what memory 
will do when once these things have been made 
known, through the annals of history. We visit 
this famous—or infamous building a number of times. 


50 


A JOURNEY 


at early morning and late at night. It matters not 
what time you come here, you are possessed with a 
solemn hush, and a death-like stillness as your mind 
sweeps back across the by-gone centuries and recalls 
the deeds of horror, the agony and untold sorrow and 
suffering of brave-hearted martyrs, whose heroic and 
blood-washed souls swept up and in through the por¬ 
tals of infinite glory, and of a yelling, blood-thirsty 
throng who gloried in such hideous scenes, the roar 
of the hungry beast, and the crushing of human 
victims. Such were some of the burning thoughts 
while in or around this gloomy old building. 

Nearby is ‘‘The Triumphant Arch of Titus,” erect¬ 
ed in honor of his overthrow of Jerusalem. All great 
warriors and their armies were inscribed on gigantic 
walls, or on magnificent columns. This served to 
commemorate their bravery and victory, also would 
tend to excite the warlike nature of the rising gen¬ 
erations. 

The Pantheon is the only ancient edifice of Rome 
which is still in a state of perfect preservation. It was 
founded by Agrippa twenty-seven years B. C., and 
was erected for the worship of all gods. He was very 
liberal in his views, and had a degree of inner con¬ 
sciousness relative to “the only true and living God,” 
but had broad views concerning worship, hence the 
margin. 

Victor Emanuel who shook the Pope from his 
throne, (as then the Pope ruled the Church and state) 
is buried in the Pantheon. Wouldn't it have been 
glorious if Victor Emanuel could have completed his 
overthrow of the Pope from the throne of the proud, 
boastful and idolatrous Catholic Church? Well, King 


'ROUND THE WORLD 


51 


Jesus will bring him down and he and his followers 
will stay down. (See 2 Thes. 2:3-8.) 

The Forum is attractive, not so much for the 
beauty and magnificence of its ruins as for the history 
and profound importance that is connected with the 
place. 

The recent excavations have brought the old Ro¬ 
man Forum to the world’s gaze again—the place 
where trod the mighty Caesars and where they sat 
on chairs of marble, where the orations of Cicero en¬ 
thused and excited the great throngs, and where 
Rome’s great men walked, spake and met violent 
death, surrounded by royalty, pomp and glory. 

There was the royal Senate, The Hall of Justice 
and Supreme Court together with great temples and 
apartments which compose the Forum. Within these 
halls gathered the diplomats, law-makers and royal 
rulers of by-gone ages. 

We visit St. Peter’s Cathedral, the costliest and 
most magnificent building in all the world. 

It is 330 feet wide, 835 feet long, and is 448 feet 
high. It cost the princely sum of two hundred mil¬ 
lion dollars, and required two hundred years for its 
construction. It has a capacity of nearly fifty thousand 
worshipers who either stand or kneel, as there are no 
chairs or pews. 

The square just in front of the Cathedral is said to 
have room for more than two hundred thousand 
spectators, and church and square thronged once in 
twenty-five years, the occasion is when the Pope ap¬ 
proaches the door of ‘'Universal Absolution,” and 
breaks it open with a silver hammer and blesses the 
whole world, at the same time forgiving its sins. 


52 


A JOURNEY 


Within this gorgeous structure you will behold 
idolatry in colossal form. 

For instance, the great bronze statue of St. Peter 
stands upon a stone pedestal and on investigation, 
you will find the great toe of his right foot has been 
kissed away by the thousands of saints. The annual 
expenditures upon this temple of idolatry exceeds 
more than thirty thousand dollars. The Vatican stands 
joined hard by the cathedral. It is composed of eleven 
thousand rooms or compartments. This is the home 
of the Pope, also of three thousand priests, with their 
man and maid-servants. Because of a considerable 
process of red tape we failed in seeing the pope, and 
didn’t lament the loss either. ^ 

The palaces of the Caesars, the Palestine Hill 
ruins of majestic buildings, remains of stately courts, 
and the outlines of royal squares are to be seen on this 
ancient summit. 

The Catacombs were visited with great interest and 
appreciation. They are an underground graveyard, 
dug out of the solid rock, and with rich paintings and 
mosaics of different avocations of life, with joys and 
felicities of heaven, as well as tortures of the lost. 

We are very desirous to visit the old Mamertine 
Prison, where Paul and Peter were incarcerated and 
from where Paul wrote and sent his letters to Tim¬ 
othy. Then we followed this illustrious apostle out 
from the city, through what is known now as “St. 
Paul’s gate,” and two miles away to Nero’s block—the 
place of decapitation, where he exchanged his cross 
for a crown, and where the earth faded and heaven 
opened with infinite glory upon his enraptured vis¬ 
ion. 


GROUND THE WORLD. 


53 


It was very fitting for us to have visited the var¬ 
ious places that mark events in the heroic career of 
the apostle while in and around Rome: First, his 
appearance on the old “Appenine Way,” where met 
some of the brethren “thanked God and took courage,” 
then in the dingy prison, where the two giants of im¬ 
mortal fame were bound, then to, “his own hired house 
he received all that came unto him, preaching,” then 
to the judgment hall, where he was condemned to 
death,and then outside the city, to the place where he 
sealed his faith and fidelity to Christ and His king¬ 
dom with his blood, and now to follow his mortal re¬ 
mains to “the Church of St. Paul,” where it is said 
that his sacred dust lies waiting the sounding of the 
resurrection trumpet. When completed, this church 
will cost about one hundred million dollars. 

Time and space forbid our speaking of the vast 
improvements going on in this ancient and modern 
city. 

The imperial garden, and the flowing fountains, 
together with the ancient aqueducts, four now in use, 
out of the sixteen ancient ones. 

Rome's population is now above five hundred thou¬ 
sand. In the heart of Roman religion we have some 
churches very active and fruitful in winning souls to 
Jesus, and which are sowing seeds of true holiness 
of heart and life. But the needs and demands are 
imperative and commanding to “the work of the min¬ 
istry” and the army of the Lord. 

We sweep away down across the sunny slopes of 
Italy, amid the productive vineyards. As we speed 
away on either side the fruits are in quality and 
quantity very fine. 


54 


A JOURNEY 


We soon arrive in Naples, which lies hugging the 
Mediterranean sea-coast, and nestling back upon the 
mountain which resembles a huge ampitheater. 

The population of this city is nearly six hundred 
thousand, and is steadily increasing. 

The commercial and industrial feature of this 
metropolis is quite unlike that of other Italian towns. 
Her merchant-fleet is an item of considerable impor¬ 
tance. The scenery surrounding this city constitutes 
a painting of richest and rarest conception. The vine- 
covered slopes, with gardens of rich choice, beautiful 
villas, nestled amid tropical growth, the long streets, 
thronged wnth pedestrians, the charming shores of the 
silvery-shining sail-dotted, deep blue sea; then grand 
old Mt. Vesuvius lifting his smutty face more than four 
thousand feet. 

A part of the city appears clean, white, airy and 
beautiful, while the other is low, dirty, damp, sickly, 
ugly and ofifensive. You will notice children, cats, 
dogs, goats, a donkey, dirt, .flies, smoke, and a few' 
pieces of their furniture all in one conglomerated 
mass. Oh! the filth, squalor and sickening fumes of 
these homes. And there are many hundreds of such 
places where the domestic animal claims his share 
with the owners of the estate. 

It is quite difficult to make your way through some 
portions of the narrow and crowded thoroughfares, 
filled, as they are, with donkies loaded with fruits 
and vegetables. 

Great old camels walk lazily along with their huge 
burdens, and the rnen, women and children in great 
processions fill the street. Beggars, young and old, 
meet and greet you at all turns and corners. Grapes and 


GROUND THE WORLD. 


55 


figs fill the markets. Wines and liquors abound here, 
and the “tee-totaler” is a queer specimen within these 
regions. 

The influx here is attributed to the congenial cli¬ 
mate, the productive soil and rich tropical fruits. 

Our hotel is situated near the sea-shore, where we 
enjoyed the flowing tides, the dashing spray and the 
roar and moans of the ceaseless waves, as they beat 
upon the rock-bound coast. 

There are some very fine buildings, and also many 
important objects that command our attention. 

First we must turn our faces toward majestic old 
Vesuvius. We hurry away a distance of ten miles, 
ascend the fruitful slopes and come within seven hun¬ 
dred feet of its firey summit. Here we are forced to 
climb around the cinders and cooling stones. But 
few ascend without the assistance of one to four 
strong Italians, but we were fortunate enough to gain 
the summit without the help of any. 

Now we are standing on the peak, four thousand 
feet high, and just at our side is the fearful fiery 
crater, whose dimensions are about two hundred feet 
across and thousands of feet deep. 

We lay^down and look over into the smoky, burn¬ 
ing, roaring chasm. Listen to those distant thunder- 
ings, belchings and mutterings, then feel that quaking 
and trembling of the earth. When the smoke of the 
crater dies away, then we gaze down its fiery slopes 
and there seems to be no bottom. It appears as though 
the whole earth had been reamed out and nothing was 
left but a thin shell upon which we were now standing, 
and it trembled as if the pillars had given away. 

Presently the out-gush of smoke, stone, cinders 



56 


A JOURNEY 


and lava causes panic among the uneasy and terror- 
stricken spectators. Who, and where is that man who 
don’t believe in the very hell described in Matthew, 
and in Rev. 21st chapter and the eighth verse? Let him 
come here and see and smell, feel and know that this is 
a literal burning “lake of fire and brimstone,” and 
brimstone is nothing more than burning sulphur; and 
as we inhaled the fumes that arose from those vol¬ 
canic depths, the truth of the statement in Revela¬ 
tion was more deeply confirmed. 

We are furnished a scenery of the surrounding 
country from this lofty altitude, which is imposingly 
grand. At our feet and down its extensive slopes lie 
the vineyards and orchards that flourish on volcanic 
soil. Then the beautiful city of Naples with its en¬ 
virons lying close to the placid waters of “The great 
Sea,” the distant blue-colored mountains and thQ deep 
blue sea, as she rolls on as far as eye can penetrate. 

It is said that this mountain contains about 100,- 
000 acres of fertile soil, and the larger per cent, is in 
vineyards. 

It was at noon, A. D. 79, that the great eruption 
which buried Herculaneum and Pompeii in fiery sepul¬ 
chers took place. They lay in their molten shroud for 
nearly eighteen centuries, practically unknown. 

A hunter, with his dog, was searching for game, 
and the dog ran a rabbit into an open place, which, 
upon investigation, was found to be a house covered 
up. Since, there have been forty acres of Pompeii 
excavated. We walked down the old streets, gazed 
upon columns, statuary, paintings and gorgeous ruins 
of that once prosperous, wealthy and wicked city. 

We turn our faces back towards Naples. Our 


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GROUND THE WORLD. 


57 


mind is employed, memory recalls, and we reach some 
conclusions which upon arrival in the Museum of 
Naples are thoroughly confirmed, relative to the cause 
and disaster in August, A. D. 79. 

The statuary explains why and how *'the wrath of 
God'' came to be “poured out without mixture" upon 
the cities of long ago. Now they are planting vine¬ 
yards, gathering grapes and make wine and make 
drunkards on the very mountain, from whose interior, 
in the first century, poured forth rivers of fire and 
mountains of boiling mud upon the thousands. Strange 
are the thoughts and deeds of men! 

At night from the balcony of our hotel can be seen 
the fiery streams from the threatening volcano, the 
glittering constellations, and the thousands of lights 
from street and residence up and down the slopes of 
the densely populated hills, upon which the city lies. 

The natives are usually small and quite brown. They 
are lovers of sunshine. Women do about ars much 
hard m.anual labor as the men. 

Macaroni is the favorite dish among the populace 
of Italy. It is made, dried, sold and consumed here. 

You will see great yards full of lines, loaded with 
macaroni swinging and the dust flying, and flies feast¬ 
ing upon these strings of dough. 

The city market is a feature of interesting, as well 
as amusing note. 

Since our visit here in September of 1905, the read¬ 
er will recall the horrible disaster of not long since, 
when so many thousand were killed or wounded in 
the fearful eruption. Still men and women live in 
sight of danger, unheed the warning voice, live unpre¬ 
pared for life and for eternity, careless about heaven. 


53 


A JOURNEY 


thoughtless about an awful hell, and forgetting that 
the}^ will stand at the bar of God, and answer accord¬ 
ing to their lives and conduct while in this life, and will 
be judged and rewarded accordingly. 

The population of Italy is approximately thirty- 
two and one-half million. In religion she is Roman 
Catholic, excepting about seventy thousand Protes¬ 
tant Christians, and thirty-eight thousand Jews. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


59 


CHAPTER VH. 

GREECE—HOME OF THE POETS. 

We bid adieu to the lovely climate and tropical 
fruits of Italy, and on board our train we go dashing 
across mountains and through fertile plains until we 
reach the sea-side again. We are delighted with the 
scenery that everywhere fills our vision. 

Soon we arrive at Brimdisi; where we take steamer 
for Grecian shores. Now we are out on the placid 
waters denominated in the Scriptures as “The Great 
Sea.” Our course is soon leading us over into the 
famous Adriatic. She is known by the sailors as a 
storm-breeder, and is generally rough and boisterous. 
We had a heavy storm and some of our company 
gave away to the torture and terrors of sea-sickness. 

We call at Corfu Island, which is a bold, bare and 
rocky island, but a beautiful and prosperous town 
stands out here mid-sea. 

Our steamer sailed proudly into the beautiful little 
harbor of Patras, our first sea-port on Grecian soil. 

Wg pass the custom-house examination and soon 
we are in our train compartment and go sweeping 
around the lovely coast-waters of Greece. 

The grapes, olive-groves and productive gardens 
that stretch along our route, together with the blue 
mountains farther back and running down forming 
fruitful slopes to the quiet waters of the Ionian sea. 

Our little “Flyer” sweeps around sharp curves, 
leaps over sparkling streams and climbs rugged steeps, 
until our eyes are greeted with the panorama of a 


6o 


A JOURNEY 


great city in yonder distance, with its white stone 
buildings, colossal domes, spiral towers, and famous 
citadel. 

It is ancient, historic, famous, grand, old and great¬ 
ly-loved Athens, the home of the king, capital of 
Greece and a great growing city. 

We are en route for our hotel. You will notice in 
all cities and nations after leaving England that the 
name “Victoria” is greatly loved, perhaps because 
of the universal love and reverence for that beautiful, 
noble and illustrious Queen. Again it may be used as a 
name for hotels, to attract the eye of England’s citi¬ 
zens. 

Fortunately we were lodged in hotels of this name 
in many cities on our journey. 

Now we are reminded that we are in one of the old¬ 
est civilized nations, her compeers being the Chaldean 
and Egyptian kingdoms. 

This little nation, whose population numbers only 
two million and a half, or not so many as Texas, 
has an area one-tenth as large. There have been 
scourging armies and multiplied besiegements, yet this 
nation stands and is regaining much of her former 
glory, power and splendor as a nation and among the 
nations she commanded. 

Athens has a population of 175,000 and is growing 
at a rapid rate. The present city was rebuilt in 1832, 
when this nation was wrenched from the clutches of 
her enemy. And the glory of our western cities can 
now be seen gracing this banner center of the intellec¬ 
tual world. Large white stone buildings, broad 
streets, beautiful parks, lovely drives and extensive 
business blocks—wholly upon the American plan. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


6i 


We begin our travels and investigation of this 
famous spot. 

We visit first the Acropolis, as it stands upon a 
high eminence overlooking the great city and sur¬ 
rounding country. The citadel and several temples 
'were built here many centuries ago. The temples 
were erected in honor of the gods of literature, music 
and art. If you will notice closely, you may observe 
idols and temples in America, with throngs worship¬ 
ing at their shrines—forgetting the God of their 
fathers, and bowing down to idols of art, music and in¬ 
tellectuality. One can get a view of the city and its 
environs from this lofty summit that is beautiful and 
impressive. 

Just at the base and in front of the Acropolis 
stands Mars Hill, from whose summit that mighty 
Apostle preached one of the greatest sermons from 
one of the greatest subjects, to one of the greatest 
assemblies perhaps ever gathered in one convention. 
He wasnT afraid or reluctant to tell them that the in¬ 
scription which they had written “To the unknown 
God,"’ “whom therefore ye ignorantly worship. Him 
I declare unto you.” He had no fear of their censure, 
or care for their praise. He was clear, sound, deep and 
out-spoken concerning the doctrine of the resurrec¬ 
tion, and his manner of speech and doctrine silenced 
their fluent tongues and troubled their mighty minds. 

We stand upon Mars Hill and gaze around over 
the hill-tops and slopes from whence rolled strains of 
sweetest music and voices of the world’s greatest 
poets and orators. 

The Temple of Jupiter, one of the World's Seven 
wonders, which was built twenty-five hundred years 


62 


A JOURNEY 


ago, is of gigantic proportions, and is a magnificent 
structure, exhibiting in its ruins sublime taste and 
architectural beauty. It is four hundred feet long by 
one hundred and fifty wide, the height being about 
ninety feet. 

The tremendous marble columns are fifty-seven 
high and more than ten feet in diameter; there were 
one hundred and twenty of these fluted marble coE 
umns, but only twelve remain standing to this day. 

Jupiter was worshiped as the supreme god by all 
the Greeks, hence this name and magnificent tem¬ 
ple. 

We go to the temple of Bacchus, the god of wine 
This temple and god you will see in most all nations 
and cities of the earth. He had a great following in 
ancient days; and truthfully, he has lost no prestige 
nor following in modern times, for the rum and liquor 
traffic in all the world demonstrate that the shrine of 
Bacchus has his millions of most loyal and loving de¬ 
votees. Athens is not the only city where Bacchus 
held sway, and where he is yet dominating with the 
scepter of intemperance, idolatry and immortality 
in this growing metropolis as is evident throughout the 
earth. 

Hear the boisterous cry of the intemperance plain¬ 
tiff : “We need the revenue that the liquor traffic gives, 
to build our cities, to strengthen the government, and 
to found and endow orphanages and asylums.” 

What folly and senseless arguments—what ig¬ 
norance is here revealed. Just think—to accept reve¬ 
nue that comes from a traffic which causes crime, sor¬ 
row, suffering, tears, heartaches, blighted homes, 
blasted hopes, hungry children, heart-broken wives 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


63 


and mothers, with a wrecked life, and a lost soul! 
Talk about receiving revenue from such a system that 
causes such wholesale damnation! 

You will remember what the Scriptures declare 
concerning building ‘‘cities with bloodthe woes and 
pending wrath of an insulted God hang over it. 

Do the liquor dealers or the nefarious traffic seek 
to care for the subjects of its unholy, indecent, unmanly 
and merciless system? 

See the brothel, the filthy streets, the jail, the mor¬ 
gue, the potter’s field and a devil’s hell and you will 
secure material sufficient for proof. 

The darkest picture, most dreadful and repulsive 
thought of the matter is that preachers remain silent 
in public and private, then walk up to the polls, cast 
their vote, which balances them up with the body- 
blighting, life-wrecking, home-cursing and soul-de¬ 
stroying intemperance movement. Again, church 
members, church dignitaries and self-posed Christian 
workers, will lease their property to saloon men, to sell 
liquid damnation, because they get “good rent,” and 
yet these unspiritual lay members sing so sweely and 
effectively “O, how I love Jesus,” and then strike the 
stanza, “I am a soldier of the Cross,” and amid testi¬ 
mony or exhortation, affirm that “We will soon take 
the world for Christ.” 

Now reader, weigh this problem, survey the situa¬ 
tion, remember those implicated and then draw your 
conclusions. 

Here is one,—it is manifest that the temple of 
Bacchus, is thronging with devout and energetic wor¬ 
shipers throughout our lands in this present day. 

We are saddened and sickened at the wholesale 


64 


A JOURNEY 


manner in which the Athenians continue their love and 
devotion to “the god of wine.”bne evening as we start¬ 
ed from our hotel, upon reaching the public square, 
we were amazed, not to sa}^ startled, at the heart¬ 
stirring scenes that met our eyes. It was drinking, 
smoking, laughing and boisterous voices, and this all 
among both men and women, as they stood or sat 
surrounding little tables, scattering all over the large 
open square; the waiters were running and ^ying to 
and fro with wines and cigars to furnish the crowds 
which thronged the place. We felt as did one of old, 
“A city wholly given up to idolatry.” 

Our next place of interest was the old Stadium. 
This was ever famous to the Grecians for their plays, 
combats, races and exciting feats. 

It was first erected more than three thousand years 
ago, and was attractive to kings and nobles, plain peo¬ 
ple and poor peasants. 

The ancient building remained in ruins nearly fif¬ 
teen hundred years. But the historic place is now the 
scene of a magnificent duplication of the old Olympic 
Stadium, only much larger and imposing. 

Some ten years ago, the modern structure was com¬ 
pleted for the inauguration of the Olympian games and 
gladitorial combats to satisfy the Christless hearts of 
the multitudes who swarm to witness such exciting 
operations. The present building is twenty-four hun¬ 
dred feet in circumference and seventy-five feet across. 
The ring or the arena is seven hundred feet long and 
one hundred feet wide, where the races and plays take 
place. 

It has a seating capacity of one hundred thousand, 
and the seats are long rows of marble, beginning at 


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’ROUND THE WORLD. 


65 


one end—the entrance—and running back, and then 
with the great rear circle, after that continuing on the 
opposite side, until the front side is again reached. 

Several hundred thousand came here to witness the 
opening of this new Stadium not long ago. So you 
see Greece is arousing from a silence of nearly fifteen 
hundred years, reviewing the ancient games for which 
she was famous. 

The prison of Socrates attracted our time and at- 
tentioa It was dvig out of the side of a great rock, 
and enclosed with iron bars. This man was the great¬ 
est philosopher of all the ages; past or present. He 
was imprisoned here for preaching *‘The only true and 
living God.” Yet he had no Bible; but the blessed 
Holy Spirit spake to his inner conscience, and thus he 
maintained and declared the truth, was imprisoned 
and finally poisoned with hemlock. It is said while 
he was dying the man who gave the fatal drug fell 
down, wept bitterly, and the great giant softly said, 
“Don’t weep for me, for I will be above the clouds in a 
few minutes.” This produced such conviction on that 
man that he repented and turned unto the living God, 
and lived and died a devout follower of the Lord. This 
was 500 B. C. 

The temples of the Muses, Nike (erected in com¬ 
memoration of the great victory of the Greeks over 
the Persian monarch) and the beautiful temple of 
Theseus, all line up before you, as you stand on Mars 
Hill, upon whose summit sat the mighty convocation 
of philosophers, and just across on the hill of the 
Nymphs, where so many small divinities were wor¬ 
shiped. The observatory is located on this hill, and 
the gigantic amphitheater, where the illustrious ora- 


66 


A JOURNEY 


tors swept the multitudes like a cyclone with their 
fiery eloquence and burning appeals. 

Time fails us to make mention of the King’s Palace, 
the National Library, the Imperial University and the 
schools of law, science, of art and literature, all of 
which give grace and beauty to the city, and signify 
and illustrate their ancient love and taste for culture 
and science. 

You will notice at a glance the beauty, splendor 
and magnificence of their architectural perfection, un¬ 
surpassed in all the world for taste and finish. 

With reluctance we turn our faces from the hill¬ 
tops and slopes where sat the mighty philosophers 
who delved into problems of profound research, and 
from whose summits the poets sang in balmy days 
while the world sat at their feet. 

We are pleased to note the progress and triumphs of 
the blessed gospel which are developing in Greece and 
and here in Athens. 

The Greek, or the Eastern Church, is the popular 
and dominating one among the Grecians, whose 
general type of spirituality fails, as a rule, to exceed 
that of the Romish Church. O, how they need to 
learn by blessed, vital and joyous experience that 
“Jesus is Risen,” and His holy life and blessed attri¬ 
butes are not delegated to stones, statuary, crucifixes, 
and powerless rites and ceremonies; but can be “wor¬ 
shipped (the soul’s attitude,) in Spirit (the character 
of devotion, with life) and in truth”—the quality of 
service—full of love life and all in truth. This is bless¬ 
ed, and certainly is the divine method for man's ap¬ 
proach and loving service to his Lord and Master. 
When will the Church which Jesus bought with His 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


67 


precious blood, arise to her glorious privileges in the 
gospel and power of her Redeemer? When will she 
shake off the shackles of spiritual apathy and moral 
stupidity, put on the beautiful garments "of full 
and free salvation,” and “look forth as the morning, 
fair as the moon, clear as the sun, and terrible as an 
army with banners?” 

Then she would startle the earth, stir hell, and 
cause all heaven to ring with her victorious shouts 
and triumphant tread. O, Lord speed the day “when 
the knowledge of the glory of God shall cover the earth 
as waters cover the sea.” 


68 


A JOURNEY 


CHAPTER VIII. 

CITY OF “THE FALSE PROPHET ” 

We take the train in Athens and arrive in Pieraeus, 
the beautiful sea port of Athens, having a population 
of about thirty-five thousand. It is closely nestled 
on the charming Bay of Salamis, thickly dotted with 
ships and merchant boats. 

It is on a high mountain near this bay where the 
Persian monarch, who marshalled the largest army 
ever mustered, numbering two million, five hundred 
thousand, being so confident of overwhelming victory 
seated himself on ,a throne upon a high mountain near 
by, that he might witness the overthrow of the Grec¬ 
ian fleet and army by his multitudinous throng. 

His vast fleet was fairly swarming on the bosom of 
the Salamis and the great host of infantry all waiting 
for the signal to leap upon the little Grecian force. 

See the monarch on his lofty throne as he sees his 
great army pass by at the base of his mountain, he 
weeps aloud and exclaims, “They all will soon be in 
their graves,” and to his utter dismay and sorrow, 
the army that was advancing on toward his mighty 
host, pressed their way amid shot and shell, through 
bayonets and steel and carved into Persia’s great 
army, until thousands lay dead upon the bloody bat¬ 
tle-field on the plain of Marathon; meanwhile the 
heroic Greeks jump aboard the death-dealing ships 
of the proud and dreaded warrior, setting them all on 
fire. Thus came the overwhelming victory over 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


69 


Xerxes and his host. Finally the old hero had to skip 
lor his life. This chronicled one of the greatest de¬ 
feats to the largest armies ever mustered and gave one 
of the greatest triumphs ever gained in military circles. 

Now the land and home that claimed the greatest 
orators, poets, philosophers and statesmen that the 
world has ever produced, is fading away. 

We pass out into, and up the Dardanelles, so famous 
in times of war between Greece and Persia. The waters 
are deep, blue and narrow. 

After several hours of rapid sailing, we cross the 
waters where once spanned a bridge, known in history 
as the Hellespont, where that vast army crossed. It 
required several days and nights for their passage. It 
was near here that Xenophon, the historian, stood 
with his 10,000, known as ''the hollow square," for they 
had been exiled from the charming soil of their native 
land, and were now en route from Persia to the Grecian 
shore, and after a weary march, on foot, of two thou¬ 
sand miles each way, making a tramp of four thousand 
miles, they stood on the lovely shore of the Archipela¬ 
go and gazed away into the distance and viewed the 
Acropolis at Athens. History says, at this instant, 
they all fell on their faces, wept and shouted for joy, 
arose and pursued their journey and were greeted with 
a loving welcome in the Capitol of their beloved land. 

What will it be when the blood-washed and Spirit- 
filled army stands on the Mount of Translation, and 
tired, weary and jaded from many long and dreary 
marches, fraught with privations, sufferings and stub¬ 
born conflicts, and they "Behold the land that is very 
far off and see the King in His beauty?" Don’t you 
know their shouts of joy and gladness will send a 


70 


A JOURNEY 


thrill through the domains of Pandemonium? It will 
r-nd the air witi their rapturous anthems a^d cause 
all heaven to gaze upon the exciting scene. Reader, 
are you ready for such an occasion; if not, why 
not? 

The scenes along the quiet waters of the Archipel¬ 
ago present a charming view, with the beautiful blue- 
colored mountains coming down with a gradual slope 
to the water's edge, and the placid bosom, with cozy 
little towns dotting its shores. 

We are out on deck all looking before the steamer 
into the distance and wondering what it is we see— 
towering turrets, great domes and magnificent build¬ 
ings. The answer comes, “It is Constantinople," the 
capitol of the Turkish empire, the “City of the 
false prophet." 

We have bid Christian nations adieu; upon leaving 
Greece we are confronted with Mohammedanism; and 
the next change will be heathenism. So you see the 
world has three grand divisions of her worshippers: 
first, Christendom; second, Mohammedan; third, 
heathendom. We were raised in the first, and having 
travelled through it, now we enter the domains of 
“The false prophet." 

Our captain gives the signal that his ship is in the 
city’s harbor, and soon we are tendered a welcome. 
The tug comes out after our vessel and we are pulled 
up near the docks. Presently there are scores of little 
boats and skiffs all around our steamer, wanting em¬ 
ployment ; some come for baggage and others for pas¬ 
sengers. You will observe boats full of fruits, wares 
and many other commodities they wish to sell. Of all 
the clamoring, yelling, pulling, tugging, pushing, and 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


71 


squirming of the boats and boatmen, it was in this 
beautiful sea-port. 

Now we are on land, and are struggling, mutter¬ 
ing and making signs the best we know how to get 
through the custom-house, for you will find in the 
Turkish government it is the hardest place to get any- 
thing, to do anything, and to get out when once you 
have entered. 

You have to get your passport out and show that, 
and added to this, you are forced to hasten away to 
Chief of Police and secure a “Teskarah.” This is an 
instrument of writing in the Arabic tongue, tells of 
your mission, your native land and the protection that 
you should have while on Turkish soil,—of course all 
these things cost something and you assume the debt. 
This *'Teskarah” must be signed in all the important 
cities in Turkey where you sojourn. 

The farther east we travel, the more vivid are the 
cnanges in the manners and customs of the people. 
The streets here are rough and very narrow, so much 
so that it is quite seldom you see streets wide enough 
for a carriage to pass through, hence most all the traffic 
is carried on upon the backs of the people or upon 
donkeys and camels. 

Our room is on the fourth floor, thinking that this 
height would relieve us of the noise and the different 
odors which arise and spread their repulsive wings 
over many portions of the city. 

Night is on and we are tired and really need rest, 
and this we thought we would enjoy, and made heavy 
drafts in that direction. 

With all the various peculiarities that are so diverse 



72 


A JOURNEY 


in their multiplied forms in this capitol, there is the 
dog question. We had always been a great lover of 
the canine family, until we lost nearly two whole 
nights of most coveted and needed sleep. We well- 
nigh dissolved partnership with this portion of the 
animal kingdom. One among the first sight that 
fills and holds your gaze, will be the throngs of dogs 
that literally swarm up and down this city. You will 
see old, mangy, dirty, Ifieey crippled, dying, howling, 
fighting, bony, starving, ugly, growling, snapping, 
lazy, sleeping and miserable dogs. It will be dogs 
until you will long to get out to see something else 
besides dogs. Just about four o'clock in the morning 
when we are enjoying slumber so well, these old,fel¬ 
lows quarreling in all directions, and they continue 
this miserable affray until (they think) all the inhabi¬ 
tants are ready to enter upon the duties of another 
day. Well, one of the greatest duties that we felt, the 
people of this city owed to their families, to the city, 
and to the reputation of their country, not to mention 
any special obligation upon them concerning the new¬ 
ly-arrived traveler, was to seize onto those howling 
curs and corral them far out in some woods, where 
they could be fed and where they could spend their 
days in howling, quarreling, scratching and eating. 
This would give the visitors a rest and relief when 
they come from Europe or America. 

The next thing you will notice, is great crowds of 
men sitting around at convenient places on little low 
stools, with their long pipes, the stems of which run 
down into a bottle of water that resemble the little 
water pitchers used in hotels, the stem, or a tube, runs 
through the water and then back into the main stem. 



Our CoiTipany at the Jaffa Gate—Jerusalem. 








I 


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s 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


73 


Thus the smoke passes from the pipe into the water 
and through the stem into their mouth. 

The great loads that men carry on their backs and 
heads will attract your gaze. You will see a man com¬ 
ing down the street all stooped over with a great bur¬ 
den on his back and it tied on with a strap and fasten¬ 
ed around the load and then looped over his forehead. 
His neck veins stand out and perspiration rolls off his 
face. 

I noticed four men with a piano on their heads 
passing down the street. 

Their business-blocks and stores are very small 
compartments. The clerk sits down on his ankles in 
his little room and can reach most everything without 
getting up. Of course the wealthy bazaars are larger, 
but on the same plan. 

We cross the river and visit the “Imperial Bazaar.” 
It is simply several blocks of houses, all under one 
roof, with hall-ways running in their ramifying direc¬ 
tions, and the great department is divided and sub¬ 
divided into stalls, stores and apartments, for the vari¬ 
ous articles, which they sell here in great quantities. 

Upon investigation, we are informed that ten thou¬ 
sand clerks are employed to attend the business car¬ 
ried on in this bazaar; and we have no reason to ques¬ 
tion the statement, as we have visited Marshall Fields’, 
of Chicago, and other great establishments in New 
York and London, and gazed on the crowds, but you 
will witness a throng of mortals swarming in and out 
of this place, hard to be found in any city. 

For the first time in our lives we enter a Mohamme¬ 
dan Mosque. 

We are quickly informed that our shoes must be 


74 


A JOURNEY 


removed or a pair of sundals put on, or we are pro¬ 
hibited from entering', hence we become ^‘subject to 
the powers that be,” and draw on the slippers. 

There are no seats within the Mosque. It is a 
large stone or marble structure with but very little 
furnishings, save a few lights swinging from the ceil-^ 
ing, and a few mats or rugs scattered over the floor. 

You will notice on one side of the wall a niche or a 
place resembling an old-fashion fire-place leaving out 
the chimney. This is an index for the worshippers to 
turn their faces, for when the worshipper faces that 
niche in the wall, he is facing Mecca, *‘The holy city 
of the Mohammedans”—to which all Islam worship¬ 
ers must turn their faces when in prayer, it matters 
not what land they are in. When it comes time for 
the Musulman to pray (and this is, as a rule five times 
each day) he kneels down three times in succession, 
meantime bending until his face touches the floor, 
then he rises to his feet, with his hands crossed be¬ 
hind him, and facing that niche in the walls, which 
directs his mind and heart toward Mecca, where 
Mohamet was buried, he repeats this: ‘T believe in 
one God and Mohamet His prophet” three times, and 
the worshipper has completed his service until the 
time arrives when this is repeated. Here is formality 
in the monotonous and disgusting appearance. O! 
how different it is. The time has come '‘When the 
true worshippers shall worship the Father in Spirit 
and in truth;” and not be compelled to gaze toward 
some mountain or some city, but we can found an altar 
and “worship God in the beauty of holiness,” in the 
home, church, open fields, the dense forest, on the 
stormy ocean or the flying train. Hallelujah! 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


75 


There are hundreds going in and out of this old 
Mosque. 

Don’t forget this legend of the Mohammedans, rela¬ 
tive to the dogs. Several hundred years ago, at one 
early morning hour, as the grand old “queen of the 
night” was swinging out in the western horizon in full 
glory and splendor, swaying her sceptre of royal bril¬ 
liancy over the earth, at this instance some dogs awoke 
and began barking furiously and uproariously, until the 
inhabitants of the peaceful city were aroused and 
alarmed, and to their utter amazement they found that 
their enemy, with a great army, was fast approaching 
the city, and was planning a rapid besiegement of their 
great metropolis. Then they sprang to the situation 
and with all the force and courage they possessed, the 
enemy was driven back and the city was saved from 
the merciless hands of their advancing foe. 

Thus the Turks attribute the deliverance of their 
great Capitol to the dogs who were barking at the 
moon, this awakened the sleepers and they discovered 
the approaching army. So the dogs are greatly ad¬ 
mired and protected by the inhabitants of this land. 
You will remember that their dag has the moon in it, 
serving to refresh in mind and memory the dual inter¬ 
pretation of the triumph of that early morning of long 
ago. 

Another object you will meet on the streets will be 
the continuous marching and paroling of soldiers. 
You will begin to think that all the folks have joined 
the army. 

There is a great amount of commerce carried on be¬ 
tween this and other countries, as is evidenced by the 
general variety of merchant vessels and coast-steam- 


76 A JOURNEY 

ers, whose cargo comes from and goes to many sea¬ 
ports. 

Their inflexible love for policy regardless of prin¬ 
ciple, is powerfuly illustrated in this occurrence. In 
i860, when there were 12,000 Christians massacred 
in Syria, because of their love for and devotion to their 
Lord, by the blood-thirsty and Christ-rejecting Mo¬ 
hammedans, the French government interposed and 
dispatched a ship laden with soldiers and plenty of 
ammunition to the scene of horror. They quickly hung 
the governor and those implicated in the bloody af¬ 
fray, when, upon the Sultan’s receiving information 
of the operations, he at once installed another man for 
governor, and as this one was frightened over the way 
the French handled his predecessor, that he embraced 
Christianity and utterly denounced the Mohammedan 
faith, and was admitted into the Greek Church as a 
member in good standing. The facts are, he was either 
frightened into his radical views by French soldiers, 
or an ambition for position, and the writer is persuad¬ 
ed to affirm that this man had but little sound, settled, 
and well-grounded convictions, and love for ‘‘The 
straight and narrow way,” but acted on the impulse 
of steering from danger and maintaining his honorable 
position. He was like the boy who sold his father’s 
razor. On being catechised for his disposing of the old 
relic the boy said, “Anything for the money, dad.” 

And now to further demonstrate and enforce my 
subject, when the intelligence regarding the governor’s 
religious proclivities and actions had reached the Sul¬ 
tan, he subscribed to the situation, and permitted the 
newly-appointed official to remain in office and gave 
his sanction. If this isn’t policy, tell me what it is. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


77 


It is similar to an actual occurrence which took 
place under our own observation. 

It was in a prosperous State, we were conducting 
a revival meeting in a good-sized court house, and were 
entertained in a good preacher’s home. He attended 
the meetings quite regularly and apparently enjoyed 
them, but after the service had closed one night, he 
very kindly remarked: ‘T heartily endorse your 
preaching and the doctrine you are teaching, for it is 
scriptural and Methodistic; I glory in your spirit and 
courage that enables you to preach with love yet with 
boldness the radical doctrines of repentance, Restitu¬ 
tion, reconciliation, regeneration and entire sanctifica¬ 
tion—these are all my doctrines, but if I were to preach 
them clear and definite as you, I would lose my bread 
and butter.” Reader, you may draw your own con¬ 
clusions from these incidents. 

There are said to be about four hundred Mosques 
in this capital of the Turkish kingdom. 

This city has a most charming location, situated on 
the lovely waters of the Bosporus and Marmora, there 
are three parts to the city, two parts are located on 
European shore divided from the other by the Golden 
Horn; while one part lies on the Asiatic shore and is 
separated from the other two by the Bosporus. The 
entire city, like Rome is built on seven hills. The his¬ 
tory of this city dates back to 658 B. C. It was found¬ 
ed by Byzantium after whom it was called until cap¬ 
tured by Constantine and then named after this illus¬ 
trious character, and is called Constantinople, “The 
City of Constantine.” There are many places of in¬ 
terest in this city. The Emperial Museum is worthy 
of your time and investigation. The palace of the 


78 


A JOURNEY 


Sultan, with St. Sophia Mosque, where the Sultan 
worships, surrounded with bayonets and sabers while 
in prayer. What depth and power, do you suppose 
characterizes such devotion, with such environments? 
His secret body-guard does ‘‘the watching,'^ while he 
does “the praying.” 

One more object we must call your attention to, and 
that is The Whirling or Dancing Dervishes. It is 
posing under the name of religion; and was founded 
A. D. 1245, by a descendant of the prophet’s father-in- 
law. Each member must perform a rigid line of dis¬ 
cipline lasting 1001 days before being finally admitted 
into the order. Their gyrating d^nce and jumping 
until they become exhausted, fall prostrate on the 
floor, is in the name of religious worship. We have 
some slight symptomrs of this in portions of our own 
land. 

The war office and navy yards are both of impor¬ 
tance. 

There is a striking scene at night from the beautiful 
harbor, looking toward the city from its water-front; 
ascending the gradual slopes densely covered with 
some very attractive buildings, costly in quality and 
beautiful in appearance, while the eye falls upon thou¬ 
sands of poor old shacks, which are seen in superabun¬ 
dance, one gets a vague conception of the horrors of 
the Islams, of their nation, and of their life, by study¬ 
ing history or reading current news, though they be 
replete with such dreadful facts, that relates to the 
oppression, suffering and decaying conditions of the 
Mohammedan religion and government. 

But when you can mix and mingle with the people 
from those in high position down to the poor peasant 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


79 


by the way-side, then you will come to know, see, and 
understand their manner and spirit of law and admin¬ 
istration. 

You remember that the Sultan is the supreme 
head of the Church and government, hence you con¬ 
clude with what power and authority he is vested. This 
he uses with all the vigor and obstinacy that possess 
the heart of a rich and Christless Sultan. 

It is said that the Sultan's annual income amounts 
to the princely sum of $11,000,000. What then can be 
the value of his estate? Such folly about his being 
“God's greatest and last prophet on earth," command¬ 
ing such wealth! What think ye, reader? Don't you 
honestly believe the devil has him deluded, together 
with his followers who claim such merits for him ? 

Now we must bid the city adieu with her 1,125,000 
population, and with a closing word relative to the op¬ 
pression of the Turkish commonwealth, and the cause 
of their inactivity in commercial and industrial pur¬ 
suits. 

Their richest plains and valleys in the Holy Land 
are held by the Sultan as personal property, leasing 
the poorer sections for his loyal but suffering subjects 
to rent from him and pay large rents or till the land not 
so productive. Then in addition to this, the land and 
people are under such heavy taxation that the very 
spirit and name of industry and progress lies murdered 
in the dust. 

When you are informed that their lands are under 
binding taxation, their fruit-trees are taxed whether 
they bear or not, and this tax must be paid, their rock- 
quarries taxed severely, their stock, their poor farm¬ 
ing utensils, and homes are all claimed for tribute to 


8o 


A JOURNEY 


the government—I haven’t told all—this will startle 
you and stir your heart. Think of it! While you are 
living in a land of liberty, prosperity, happiness and 
enjoying the blessed privileges of the gospel, there is 
demanded and collected from these poor starving and 
struggling subjects one-fifth of all they make, over and 
above the other taxes mentioned. Now take a retro¬ 
spective view, with the unexcelled taxation upon the 
people, their lands, trees, quarries and stock, and then 
add to this system of thieving and extortion, one-fifth 
of all they make, which goes out of their honest toil¬ 
ing hands—now where and how do you see any place 
or material for industrial developments and when 
will there be, under the present system of robbery? 
Put the United States under a similar form of rule, 
and see how quick our great mills and factories cease 
to run, and cease to employ the thousands of honest 
and upright men. 

See how quick the great merchant-fleets, which 
carry cargoes of our most valuable product to many 
foreign ports, would cease and their hulls would wreck 
on some wild-bound coast. 

I am not at all surprised at the condition of the 
Turkish kingdoms, with their burdens, their degrading 
and decaying attitude, either as a church or State. 


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’ROUND THE WORLD. 


8i 


CHAPTER IX. 

THE LAND OF EGYPT. 

Now we turn our faces from the Ottoman’s Capitol, 
and begin our voyage to “the land of Israel’s bondage.” 
We are glad to get out of and away from “the city of 
the false prophet,” with the narrow, rocky and crowd¬ 
ed streets; and the angry dogs, the tramping of sol¬ 
diers, the calling of Mohammedan priests for prayer, 
and be relieved of the sounds and odors arising like 
fog from many quarters of this populous city. 

We sail along on the placid bosom of the Archi¬ 
pelago, beholding the great wasting plains, and fertile 
valleys of the Turkish domain, apparently uncared-for 
and un-cultivated, the solution of which is hinted at 
in another chapter. 

Now a word relative to the Mussulman’s faith and 
practice. 

They have their Koran as their rule for faith and 
life, said to have been revealed from heaven to Mo¬ 
hamet in A. D. 620, over in Arabia. But it is very evi¬ 
dent that the entire Koran, was stolen from the Bible 
and revised into the present code, styled “The Koran,” 
as Mohamet studied under an old priest during his 
days of isolation, and is said to have studied the Bible 
constantly, thereupon his leavng the old convent, he 
destroyed the Bible and soon had his (?) “revelation” 
of the Koran. 

Their manner and conduct of worship and church- 
life is rigid and strict. It commands their fidelity, de- 


82 


A JOURNEY 


votion and extreme watchfulness in performing their 
multiplicity of duties enjoined upon them. They are 
required to pray five times each day and fast during 
the day through the whole month of Rawadin, or No¬ 
vember, and feast in the night. They seem most loyal 
and devout to their creed in paying and performing 
the variety of religious functions required in the 
Koran. 

Mohamet claimed that Jesus was a good and great 
prophet, but not a Redeemer. Hence you see the 
Mohammedan religion is utterly without a Saviour, 
and is powerless to redeem man back to God. See 
Acts 4: 12: “Neither is there salvation in any other, 
for there is none other name under heaven given 
among men, whereby we must be saved.’’ They claim 
that Mohamet is their prophet and that he received 
the last and highest commission from heaven to per¬ 
suade, to invite, to warn and to compel men to repent, 
hence their love to kill and slay right and left, and they 
say, “The more you kill the brighter your crown will 
shine.” 

Now turn the picture and get another view of the 
problem under consideration. The women are com¬ 
pelled to live in their homes, shut in behind latticed 
doors and windows, and on their venturing out in the 
public, she is forced to veil her face that no man look 
upon her face. They usually wear long white robes 
hanging from their heads, with a little opening for the 
nose and mouth, then two eyelets, that they may sec 
their way. 

What think you, ye fair daughters of America, if 
this bondage were yours to endure? 

As we view the glorious effects the gospel of our 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


83 


Lord has wrought, and that which is developing with¬ 
in the new world, and then turn our gaze to far away 
heathen fields, and to know what marvellous changes 
are being wrought, we shout aloud, “Glory to God in 
the highest, peace on earth and good will to men,” for 
this is what the gospel produces. The people of 
America should be the happiest, most appreciating, 
and loyal people of all the eatrh. 

See their peace, prosperity and Christian privileges. 

At last we pass close “The Isle of Patmos,” too 
well known for this scribe to comment upon the sacred 
and historic transaction once enacted upon its bare 
summit. 

We touch at a number of sea-coast towns as we 
are en route for Africa. Smyrna is a celebrated com¬ 
mercial city of Ionia, situated near the bottom at that 
Gulf of the Aegean Sea. This is an ancient city. It 
was a seat of one of the Christian Churches denomi¬ 
nated in Revelation, as one of “The seven Churches of 
Asia.” The present population is 180,000, and possess¬ 
es one of the prettiest sea fronts and correspondingly 
as beautiful in its gradual ascent to a grand climax of 
towering citadel, away back in the distance, as can be 
found. At night the long sea-front, and ascending 
slopes, are all densely covered with white buildings, 
and sparkle with large and small lights. Our voyage 
over the deep, blue Mediterranean required four days. 
We have a conglomerated mixture of tribes and 
tongues on board our ship—Turks, Egyptians, French¬ 
men, Germans, Englishmen, Italians, Greeks, Africans, 
Syrians, and some Americans. And the religious 
proclivities of the above varying with their tribe and 
tongue, such as Mohammedans, Catholics, (both Greek 


84 


A JOURNEY 


and Roman) then the Zoroastrian,—Fire-Worship¬ 
pers, then those of Protestant views,—the High 
Church, the Baptist, Presbyterians, Congregational- 
ists, Methodists, The Friends, and then some known 
as the Coptics and Orthodox Greeks. The situation 
simply supplied one with material for study, observa¬ 
tion and at times much amusement. 

The first thing we see upon reaching the northern 
shores of Africa is Pompeii’s Pillar, standing near the 
sea-shore in the prosperous city of Alexandria. 

It is lOo feet high and is a genuine monolith— 
meaning, it is a solid granite column loo feet high, 
and was erected 600 B. C., by the Pharaoh of the 
19th dynasty. 

Alexandria was founded in 332 B. C. by Alexander 
the Great, and has a population of 300,000. Also it 
is the commercial center of all north Africa, while 
Cairo is the capitol of Egypt. 

Alexandria lies on a plain but very little above the 
level of the sea. 

We are now under the Union Jack, as Egypt has 
been under the British government since 1882. 

As there is so little to be seen here, save the little 
donkeys, dogs, camels, the sands, hot sun, and the pe¬ 
culiar manners, customs and condition of the people, 
so we will board a train and hurry away to Cairo. 

Now we are in the capital, also the largest city in 
Egypt, or in Africa. We remember that we are in the 
very land where the chosen people of the Lord were 
in long and bitter bondage for four hundred years, 
under the proud Pharaohs of many centuries ago. 

The scorching sun and burning sands of this coun- 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


85 


try are simply fearful. This land has been in a state 
of constant cultivation for more than 4,000 years. 

River Nile is the longest water course in the world, 
measuring more than 4,000 miles in length, heading 
away back in the dark continent. The water is muddy 
—even at ‘‘low-Nilealthough thousands drink 
from its murky bosom. At this season of the year 
(October) the water is rising, better known among 
these people as “a high Nile.” The time of year has 
arrived for the semi-annual ovendow of the Nile. These 
inundations come each year, in spring and fall, flood¬ 
ing the whole valley and scattering the richest sedi¬ 
ment and forming the most productive soil in all the 
world, making this section of Egypt famous the world 
over, for the four crops raised and gathered each 
year. 

It wasn^t an uncommon sight to see one man plant¬ 
ing or plowing his corn, while his neighbor is harvest¬ 
ing his grain or is gathering his cotton, all at the same 
time, and under your immediate observation. 

When the land becomes the least dry, (as it seldom 
if ever rains here) they can start their old water¬ 
wheels, usually run by buffaloes, by walking around 
in a circle and pulling at the end of a beam which is 
fastened in a drumhead and this turns the wheel that 
has little buckets that fill with water on their down¬ 
ward turn and as the wheel rolls on around the buckets 
assume their upright position and at a certain point 
the water flows from the buckets into a trough and 
then off into ditches to the different parts of the field. 
You will notice in many places that men and women 
will dip water with pails and pour in the troughs that 
lead to the numerous ditches, instead of using the 


A JOURNEY 


S6 

wheel and buffalo, as the water in the canal is below 
the earth's surface, and must be raised to the surface 
by hand or wheel. These canals literally check the 
whole valley, and the irrigating of that great section 
is of great value and import. 

The cotton of Egypt doesn’t seem to grow tall, the 
bolls look small and the staple appears rather short, 
compared with that of our great South land. 

They carry their produce from the fields to their 
homes or the markets on their camels and donkeys. 

During harvest you will notice they harvest the 
grain with their ancient reap-hooks, and then bind it 
and stack in piles, then the camel comes along, kneels 
down on his ^'all fours,” and he is loaded to deliver the 
grain on the threshing-floor, which is nothing but a 
rock surface where the grain is spread out and is trod¬ 
den by the buffalo or oxen until the grain is all beaten 
out. Thence it is thrown into the air, and the wind 
carries the chaff away, while the grain falls fanned 
and cleaned onto the rock-floor. Then it is loaded on 
the camel and is carried to market. You observe 
great caravans of camels loaded with different pro¬ 
ducts coming down the highways to town at all times 
of the day. The olives, figs, oranges and dates are 
here in abundance and oh, how delicious they are, and 
so very cheap. 

We are so charmed with the depth of the soil, 
(said to be from ten to forty feet) the richness and pro¬ 
ductiveness of the land, that we are eager to learn of 
its value, and upon our investigation were informed 
that it was valued at $400 per acre. Of course we 
didn’t make any land deal. 

The peculiarity and variety of dress and manners 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


87 


will arrest your attention upon arrival, and will hold 
it as long as you remain in the land. Men with their 
red, white, brown and blue turbans, with their white, 
black, blue and brown loose blowing robes, and many 
of them with their staff (walking stick) in hand 
trudging along in companies, or in single file; then the 
women—off to themselves as a rule—with their blue 
and black, some veiled to the eyes and some all over, 
and others with no veil, walking in companies, general¬ 
ly bare-footed, dusty, hot and wearied. This forms 
a picture that ever hangs in the mind’s gallery. 

We arise early and set out for the pyramids, hurry¬ 
ing through narrow and crowded streets, and finally 
reach our tramway or street-car, which runs from 
Cairo, across the river and on to the pyramids, a dis¬ 
tance of eight miles west from the city. 

The great river is dotted with sail boats and other 
little crafts, that look shaggy and ugly. The waters 
are rising and spreading out into many parts of the 
valley, but our car-line is on a high embankment, and 
is densely shaded with the beautiful Acacia trees, 
which line either side of the road. This is so cool and 
pleasant for the weary and way-worn traveler, who 
has been treading on hot sands, beneath this hot Afri¬ 
can sun, and the air coming off from the great desert 
fairly burning his face. The beautiful tall palm trees 
stand straight, calm and majestic around over the fer¬ 
tile valley in groups; it certainly informs one that he is 
in the old world. 

Our car halts, we are out and hurrying away to 
reach old Cheops, the king of the pyramids. A descrip¬ 
tion of the largest will serve for all. They stand on 
the edge of the desert, close by the valley of the Nile. 


88 


A JOURNEY 


Cheops—so named after its founder—stands over 
five hundred feet high and covers an area of thirteen 
acres, and then about twenty feet of the apex had been 
removed to make a platform upon which visitors might 
stand when reaching its summit. You stand on this 
lofty perch and let your eyes sweep up and down the 
great valley beneath you, with the famous river, as it 
slowly bends and threads its way from south to north 
as some cord of silver drawn down the land, then the 
beautiful groves, orchards, gardens and green fields, 
with the many little villages dotting here and there. 
And you lift your gaze and behold the magnificent 
metropolis Cairo, as she stands out against the horizon 
in meridian splendor. Now when you turn your back 
to this and lift your visions upon and across that great 
howling, wasting, burning and lifeless sandy desert, 
with its clouds of rolling, red sand and scorching 
waves of heat, it appears as though you were gazing 
across some ocean of smouldering fire. 

This magnificent, yes, gigantic monument of cut and 
laid stones, beginning with a mammoth base and slop¬ 
ing to a sharp apex, was, beyond doubt, built by the 
antediluvians nearly four thousand years ago. They 
have survived the flood and the ravages of time and ex¬ 
posure ; and yet they stand in a wonderful state of pre¬ 
servation. 

In the center of the largest pyramid are the King’s 
and Queen’s chambers, where were interred their royal 
mummies, where they remained many hundreds years, 
but were removed in later times. 

The passage-ways into these silent vaults are nar¬ 
row, low and descending from the outside to the inter- 



“Two Shall be Grinding at the Mill”—Jesus. 

























’ROUND THE WORLD. 


89 


The ascent upon this veritable mountain of stone 
is an item of no little importance. You will be escort¬ 
ed by from two to four men, two lifting by each arm 
and one or two pushing from beneath. And ere your 
reaching the summit you will feel that you need just 
that number. There are three main places to rest as 
you climb its towering slope, and you wouldn’t com¬ 
plain if there were that many more. 

Upon your arrival at the summit, your guides and 
carriers will want to perform all kinds of feats to get 
your attention and money, the latter being the coveted 
prize. 

It seems more difficult to descend than it was to 
ascend. You feel as though you would topple over on 
your head and go plunging down the rocky slope, but 
just remain calm, cool and steady; your strong and 
active guides will see that your foot doesn’t slip, or 
that you don’t become over-balanced, or that you 
don’t go too fast. 

One man from England purposed to mount the sum¬ 
mit and descend again in so many minutes, all alone. 
Well, the crowning peak was gained, and now he had 
started down, and about one-third of the way down his 
foot slipped and he became unbalanced, couldn’t catch 
himself and his body plunges down three hundred feet, 
and is picked up a mere pulp on the ground below. 

Now we hasten over to another “Wonder of the 
World,” The Sphinx, situated in about three hundred 
yards of the largest pyramid, between it and the edge 
of the Nile Valley, which is nearly forty feet below 
this level. 

The Sphinx is a monolith—one solid piece of stone, 
carved in the form of a lion with the face of a virgin. 


90 


A JOURNEY 


It is one hundred and twenty feet long and sixty feet 
high. Doubtless it was the idol worshipped the 
multitudes in antediluvian ages. 

The temple of Sphinx near-by is one of the most 
magnificent structures in all the land. It is compos¬ 
ed exclusively of that costly red granite exported from 
the cataracts of the Nile. 

It was said that it required the labor of twenty 
thousand men, one hundred years to construct the 
largest pyramid, and there is no mechanical power in 
use today that could handle the gigantic stone that was 
employed in the erection of such as the pyramids. 
Sphinx, the columns and temples of Egypt. 

You will notice boys and men with their donkies 
all around, and the camels are saddled and kneeling 
for you to mount the saddle, and upon your entering 
the saddle the old camel will grunt and groan, just like 
it was killing him, but he is not suffering—he is just 
giving expression to his joy and appreciation of re¬ 
ceiving your attention and his selection. 

Now to the Catacombs. After riding along on our 
little donkies for miles across the levees of the valley, 
we are en route to the oldest and first graveyard of the 
world, more properly called '‘the Catacombs of Egypt,” 
which was also the royal cemetery. 

It is cut out of the solid rock, up just on the level of 
the desert from the valley, where water never falls 
above the floods of the great river. 

You can walk amid beautiful rooms, apartments 
and hall-ways, all beneath the surface and hewn out 
of solid stone. In these rooms are the magnificent 
stone and granite coffins, better known as sarcophagus, 
measuring from ten to thirteen feet in length, and six 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


91 


to eight feet wide, and eight feet high, composed of 
two pieces of red granite, the lid and the huge granite 
coffin. Within these were the mummies. All on 
the walls of the room and ceiling were figures of 
flowers, trees, fruits, animals, and representations of 
most all avocations of life—armies, fleets, great and 
noble men and women, inscribed, painted, or in 
Mosaics. It is said that such was written for the bene¬ 
fit of those who had passed away, and who now needed 
comfort and cheer. 

All the mummies have been removed to the great 
museum at Cairo. 

We shall in connection with the Catacombs speak 
of the museum, the largest and most historic in the 
world, excepting the British at London. The Museum 
of Cairo contains most all of the mummies, many of the 
beautiful sarcophagi, and royal dust that was pre¬ 
served in the catacombs, and the statuary, paintings 
and sculpturing of the mighty ancients, are on attrac¬ 
tive exhibition here. 

We walk amid the dead and embalmed, gazing upon 
their forms and faces, appearing at times as if they 
wanted to speak, or haven’t been dead a great while, 
but who had been silent for three and four thousand 
years. 

We were informed that we were now looking upon 
the very form and face of Pharaoh, who ruled during 
the time of Israel’s hardest bondage and glorious de¬ 
liverance, the Pharaoh whose daughter found the in¬ 
fant Moses floating upon the bosom of the Nile, and 
who hired his (Moses’) own mother to nurse the lovely 
babe, and afterwards “was trained in all the wisdom 
of Egypt.” This very same Pharaoh is claimed to be 


92 


A JOURNEY 


now before our very eyes. Can it be possible that we 
are looking into the very face of that mighty monarch, 
who has been dead about four thousand years ? As we 
were standing by the side of the glass case containing 
this mummy, some “smart fellows,’^ who act as if they 
knew it all, and had a patent right on the world’s voca¬ 
bulary, said in that irreverent, flippant and ungentle- 
manly voice and manner, “Will this Pharaoh ever be 
resurrected?” And Dr. Godbey, one of our traveling 
companions, said calmly and with a tone of loyalty to 
God and faith in his promise. “Yes, when the Angel 
shall sound the resurrection-trumpet, he and all others 
will arise from their long silence and meet God at the 
judgment.” Those smart fellows turned and went 
their way. 

We visit the site of ancient and historic Memphis, 
once the political metropolis of the Pharaohs, the city 
where Moses and Aaron supplicated for the freedom 
of Israel. 

Just a few old ruins mark the bounds of that city 
the glory and splendor of which was made famous by 
the presence and palaces of the Pharaohs. 

Date-palms abound here, and dates said to be the 
finest in the world, are gathered and shipped from this 
noted land. The date trees grow very high and have 
no limbs for more than twenty to fifty feet, then they 
are simply large leaves. 

These Egyptians can run up these trees, (which, 
in size, resemble a telegraph pole) just like squirrels. 
They have a rope fastened around their bodies, and 
there will be a loop going around the tree, that as they 
climb the tree they hold by means of the rope, and on 
their reaching the top, proceed to fasten themselves. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


93 


and begin thrashing dates, putting some in their 
baskets and letting them fall on the ground to be gath¬ 
ered by others who have large baskets. When these 
are filled, the camel comes along, kneels, is loaded and 
with some one to go with him they proceed to market. 

We ride along in these wonderful date-groves and 
from our saddles eat dates so sweet and delicious, until 
we are warned to desist. 

Now we are standing beside a granite statue of 
Ramases IL, the Pharaoh, who oppressed Israel in 
Moses’ time. It is forty feet long and is ten feet across 
the shoulders. Mind you, it is one solid piece of red 
granite, with a shining polish. Three of us eat our 
dinner, all sitting on its breast, as the statue lies on 
its back upon stone trestles. Imagine the weight and 
cost of such an image. A little farther on is an image 
of his father, Ramases I. It is forty-six feet long, and 
other dimensions in proportion, made of one solid piece 
of white stone. How did they handle them? 

Only a few other ruins can be seen of old Memphis, 
as the semi-annual overi^lows of the Nile have left de¬ 
posits of sediment and soil all over the valley, causing 
an elevation of from ten to forty feet of all the plain 
of the river. This has forced the city of Memphis to 
be moved. The same thing necessitated the moving 
of old Cairo to its present site farther up the river. 

We visit an old basement room in the crypt of an 
old Coptic church which is said to be the house in which 
Joseph and Mary lived during their stay in Egypt, to 
save the precious infant Jesus from the edict of cruel 
Herod. 

How unworthy we felt and our very hearts sank 
within us; then w^e remembered His mission. His life. 


94 


A JOURNEY 


His departure, His coming and His promise—all for 
you and for me. O, the glory of that hour! What les¬ 
sons from His Word by the Holy Spirit came and filled 
our hearts while in that silent room! 

Joseph's well is dug out of the solid rock two hun¬ 
dred feet deep and sixteen feet squaic. There is a 
stair-way cut out of the rock running around, but just 
back from the well, where the people could walk down 
to the water and carry it up or use the means employed 
in drawing it, or both could be utilized in case of neces¬ 
sity. How long do you suppose they were digging this 
well, and how much do you imagine it cost? 

The women do most of the hard work in this coun¬ 
try, in fact they seem to be a mere beast of burden, 
while the men do the lighter and easier work. 

O, the burden, oppression, sorrow and suffering 
of womanhood in the oriental world! 

Cairo has a population of five hundred and seventy 
thousand, with a good sprinkle of English inhabitants. 
The Mohammedans have one or two very fine Mos¬ 
ques here, and their school here is said to contain sev¬ 
eral hundred studying th'e Koran and a number of 
other studies. 

This city is Europeanized in many respects—the 
spacious hotels, many wide and clean streets, street 
cars, electric lights, and some English stores.Egypt has 
a population of about nine million and eight hundred 
thousand, and has an area of four hundred thousand 
square miles. 

The religion of the ruling people is Mohammedan, 
but the Coptics number over six hundred thousand, 
and the Franks—or Christians more than one million. 

There are a number of earnest, persistent, active 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


95 


and loyal Christian workers in the cities of Egypt, who 
are doing most practical and efficient work for the 
Master, and on the other hand, there are others, who 
appear just to have a mere profession and the spirit 
and character of their work seem to add another 
plague to Egypt. 



96 


A JOURNEY 


CHAPTER X. 

IN THE HOLY LAND. 

We bid adieu to the flies, hot sun, red sand and the 
rare fruits of Egypt, and turn our face toward “the 
promised land.” Our train sweeps over a section of 
that great desert, running along close to the old cara¬ 
van route from Egypt to Canaan, which doubtless the 
patriarchs of old trod, and where our Lord was 
brought during His exile in Egypt. 

We soon arrive in the beautiful sea-port town of 
Port Said, a city whose population is claimed to be 
forty-five thousand and the growth is both rapid and 
remarkable. 

This city is what we might term a “Cosmopolitan 
city”—that is, it is composed of citizens of the world. 
There are Americans, Englishmen, French, Germans, 
Italians, Syrians, Egyptians, and Africans living here. 
Their dialect and religion vary with tongue and tribe. 

We are on the sea-coast of the largest sea in the 
world, and famous for its depth and bluish color. 

You Vv^ill see the American and English influence 
here in streets, houses, dress and manners. 

This city forms the key to the orient, as all the 
great ocean vessels call and also coal here. 

We embark on a French steamer, bound for the 
land forever made sacred by the life and presence of 
our Lord. The time required for us to journey from 
“Egypt to Canaan,” was quite different from that of 
God’s host of long ago. 



Hindu Funeral Pile 








’ROUND THE WORLD. 


97 


In the Sunday school we used to see pictures of the 
various places, giving the historical and practical inter¬ 
est connected with them which created and awakened 
a great ambition to ‘‘view the promised land.” This 
burning desire was intensely agitated upon our turning 
to the Lord, and frorn Him receiving a new heart. 
And again, when consecrating our all to Him forever 
and He cleansed away all sin by “The baptism with 
the Holy Ghost and fire,’ thus filling our heart with 
perfect love, and removing all the inner disturbances, 
this too added fuel to the fire—to visit, look upon, 
walk over and wander through the land hallowed by 
the footsteps of Jesus. 

After one night and part of the three days sailing 
up the Mediterranean, we sighted from our deck, away 
in yonder’s distance, “The hills of Galilee.” Oh, how 
our hearts beat with joy. Our eyes quickly filled, and 
our voices grew heavy, as we gazed upon Canaan’s 
fair lands. 

Beyroute is our landing point. Because of our ship 
coming from Egypt, we were informed that the com¬ 
pany of this ship were victims of the quarantine regu¬ 
lation. Our imprisonment lasted only twenty-four 
hours, and soon we are let out. 

Beyroute is the commercial and financial capital of 
Syria. It is very prosperous, a well-situated and with¬ 
al commanding and imposing view, as it sits along 
the sea-coast, and gradually rises up the mountain’s 
side, to a lovely height. It has a population of more 
than one hundred and twenty thousand, with several 
thousand Christians. 

This is the headquarters of the American mission 
(Presbyterian) in Syria. They have a great college 


98 


A JOURNEY 


here, and other enterprises about as large as can be 
found in all the foreign fields. 

The streets, as a rule, are wide, clean and paved. 
The side-walks are to be found here, not usually found 
in the old world unless influenced by Americans or 
Europeans. 

We are now en route to Northern Syria. Our 
train resembles those in our native land, save not so 
large, but fair comfort and convenience it furnishes. 

Oranges, lemons, olive-orchards and bananas 
abound here. We are electrified with the richness 
and productiveness of the soil when properly prepared 
and cultivated. 

The mountains of Syria are denominated as the 
‘‘Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon range,’’ and are famous 
for their cedar, and the fertility of the soil, even from 
the base to their summit. The ancient custom was to 
terrace the mountain to retain the soil and cultivate 
their long slopes or plant them in vineyards and olive- 
groves. 

There is considerable sign of industrial progress and 
development, but wholly among the Jews, Germans 
and French who are coming hither, and with all the 
speed and privileges granted them by the Sultan, are 
demonstrating what can and what ought to be devel¬ 
oped in this country—a prosperous, happy, peaceful 
and industrious people. 

We arrive in Baalbec, one of the oldest cities on 
earth. Baalbec was the capital of Baal-worship— 
worship of the sun. To this city the ancient idolaters, 
the kings and queens of several nations would gather 
to their annual festivities and pay homage to **the king 
of the day.” Can you imagine the vast amount of 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


99 


gold, silver and precious gifts that were brought here 
by the royal families to offer to the created instead of 
the Creator? 

No wonder Israel became polluted with this system 
of idolatry as the glory and splendor flashed from 
this city literally decked with gold and precious 
stones. It is evident today, when men lose or forget 
“the God of their fathers” they resort to Theosophy, 
Christian Science, Mental Science, Spiritualism, Ma¬ 
terialism, Socialism, and come-outism, all of which 
have a tremendous big following in our borders. 

Doubtless the greatest and most magnificent ruins 
in all the world are to be found here. We will just 
mention a few of the more important. 

The temple of Baal is one of tremendous propor¬ 
tions and exhibits splendor and beauty. Though 
it is in ruins, you will behold wonders in the arch¬ 
itectural and mechanical exhibitions. There are solid 
blocks of stone here in the wall, which measure sixty 
feet in length, and are sixteen by eighteen feet in 
breadth and width. Who can estimate their weight 
and how they brought them from the quarries, which 
are nearly a half a mile from the wall in which they 
lay about twenty feet high? 

In the quarries we measured a stone partially fin¬ 
ished, it was seventy feet in length and sixteen by 
eighteen feet, and is said to weigh more than two mil¬ 
lion pounds, requiring forty thousand men to carry it. 

We hasten on to Damascus, the capital of Syria, 
and said to be the oldest city on earth. We are de¬ 
lighted with the beautiful gardens, vineyards and or¬ 
chards of Damascus, which are loaded with such de¬ 
licious fruits. , 


lOO 


A JOURNEY 


It is said, “Visit Damascus to see real oriental life 
and customs/’ Well, our coming and seeing 
serves only to confirm the truth and importance of the 
statement. The variety of people and their manners 
and customs, their enterprises, industrial pursuits and 
domestic life, all constantly demand your gaze and 
comment. 

We employ a good Syrian guide 'who is a devout 
Christian gentleman, and is very congenial, and who 
has been raised to explore, explain and journey up ^d 
down the land for the past twenty years. He is con¬ 
versant with history, is a master of five languages, 
speaks English fluently, and his knowledge of the 
land comparing with the Bible in the most beautiful 
order. 

We go through the streets and they are usually 
narrow, dirty, crooked and crowded, the children play¬ 
ing with dogs and donkeys, old ugly camels lazily 
winding their way, causing you to lean over against 
the wall to keep from getting run over or knocked 
down by their great loads. 

There are several thousand silk looms in this city, 
run by women and little girls, the little tots doing 
their work with skill and energy. The silk that is made 
and woven in Damascus has a market in many na¬ 
tions of the earth. 

The brass, silver and gold-shops of this city are a 
scene of considerable importance and activity. To 
see their little simple and ancient working-tools is 
strange but fascinating to one of the New World. 
Their little stores are simple and small, comprising 
a little room, with three even walls, the front and 
fourth wall being removed; this is used as the door. 


GROUND THE WORLD. 


lOI 


and can be replaced at leisure. This renders the store 
somewhat burglar-proof, for they usually employ no 
windows. The general size of the rooms makes it easy 
for one merchant to attend to all business connected 
with that department and remain seated in the middle 
of the floor during the entire proceedings. 

The olive-press can be found here, pressing the oil 
out of the olive. You must remember that olive-oil 
is highly useful and exceedingly valuable. It is used 
for medical purposes, table-use, and on the world’s 
market is a commodity of no small import. The press 
is a large stone roller, with a beam fastened to it, 
drawn by a buffalo, and this roller runs around in a 
trench made of stone and cement. The olives are 
poured into this trench and the huge roller runs over 
them and the oil flows out beneath into a vessel. 

The two historic and charming rivers, Abana and 
Parphar, to which Namaan quickly referred, when he 
was commanded to ‘‘go wash in Jordan and thou shalt 
be clean,” are clear, cool and sparkling in the even¬ 
ing. You will notice great crowds as they gather on 
either bank of these lovely streams and pass away the 
time in conversation and amusement. 

You will see the oriental life, with its manners and 
various costumes if you visit the native bazaars. The 
different colored robes, the red turbans, the sandals, 
veiled-faced women, or with water-pots on their heads, 
en route to or from the fountains. You will see the 
long caravan of camels loaded with grain or fruits, or 
returning home with one in the lead having a red 
cloth around her neck, and from this hangs a jingling 
bell, which all hear and follow. Then the little don¬ 
keys, so amusing, but used for most everything too. 


102 


A JOURNEY 


The mulberry trees are of great importance, they 
are set out and cultivated in large quantities to feed 
the silk-worm, whose silk is so famous here in ihis 
land, as it goes to the different nations of the world 

We walk out and visit Naaman the Leper’s house. 
It is used exclusively as a Leper asylum, hence orr 
visit didn’t include an extensive investigation of the 
situation. We are anxious to visit ‘‘The house of 
Ananias.” It is now used as a Latin Church. We hurry 
away to “street called Strait;” it is the largest and 
most important in the Syrian metropolis. The place 
on the wall, where that illustrious Apostle was let 
down in a basket, used as a mode of deliverance holds 
the traveler’s eye. 

It was in and around this city in i860 when that 
terrible massacre of the Christiaps by the Christ-re- 
jecting Mohammedans took place, when twelve thou¬ 
sand sealed their faith with their blood, and afterwards 
a French army invaded the surroundings and hanged 
the Turkish Pasa (governor) and others. 

The population of Damascus is about two hundred 
and fifty thousand. There are many beautiful build¬ 
ings and lovely gardens, the aroma of the flowers fill¬ 
ing the air, and the fruits crowding the public marts. 

We are enroute back to Beyroute. We enjoy the 
mountain scenery; grand old Mount Hermon with 
long slopes covered with green, whose summit is 
crowned with snow, stands more than ten thousand 
feet high. How majestic he looks! 

We take ship for Caifa, a little sea-coast town below 
Sidon. 

We visit Mt. Carmel, a grand old majestic moun¬ 
tain, forever made historic and sacred because of that 


GROUND THE WORLD. 


103 


famous ministerial convocation, and especially be¬ 
cause of that celestial conidagration, giving the man 
of God heaven’s own approval to his doctrine and life. 

We are in Canaan and in order to traverse the land, 
viewing and investigating the most historic and im¬ 
portant places, we will be compelled to spend one 
month—and then our time is too brief for our own 
soul’s satisfaction, but we shall hasten away. The 
size of this volume will not admit our recording but 
a few important features connected with our sojourn 
in the holy land. 

We are enroute to Nazareth, the home of our 
Lord for nearly thirty years of His earthly pilgrim¬ 
age. 

The hills, valleys, mountains, plains and cities, 
towns and villages are all commanding to the mind 
and heart because of their historic and sacred relation 
and connection with the life and ministry of ^‘The Man' 
of Galilee.” 

Nazareth stands on the side of a considerable 
mountain. This city contains about seven thousand 
inhabitants, among them many Jews and Christians. 

We enjoy our visits to the place where the angel 
conversed with Mary, then Joseph’s shop and the 
synagogue where Jesus attended church while in this 
town. 

You will observe the virgins with the water-pots 
on their heads, going to or returning from the fountain 
with grace and ease. 

We mount our Syrian horse and start across the 
country; we visit Cana of Galilee, the place of the first 
miracle, ''turning the water into the wine.” 

The land as a whole lies in waste and desolation. Of 


104 


A JOURNEY 


course you will see the poorly cultivated farms and 
dirty villages only declare in word and appearance 
“Thy glory hath departed/' 

The great plain of Esdrelon, one of the finest and 
most productive to be found, with its thousands of 
rich and fertile acres, receives but very poor atten¬ 
tion, and preparation for their crops. O, if they had 
some of our gang-plows, cultivators and harvesting 
machinery to work and to harvest their grain, what 
kind of yield would there be, with the fertility of the 
soil and its exceeding rich and productive land? The 
Sultan of Turkey either owns or personally controls 
this great plain. The farmers all live in villages, said 
to be done for protection, and go out and work their 
several fields. 

We pass by where General Saladin defeated the 
last crusade in 1187, on Mount Hattan. 

Presently our eye falls on the beautiful waters of 
sacred Galilee; that verse of song filled our soul—“O 
Galilee, sweet Galilee.” Her placid bosom, reflecting 
the glory of an oriental sun, looked as though it were 
a sea of shining silver, surrounded by bold moun¬ 
tains on either side, and the influx and afflux of the 
Jordan at the ends. 

We are in Tiberius, which has a population claimed 
to be seven thousand, a very dirty place, as great 
herds of goats, sheep and buffaloes swarm in and 
around this town. 

We sail around over the beautiful sea which is 
six and one half miles wide, thirteen long and one 
hundred and seventy-five feet deep. O, how delightful 
these hours, and how precious the lessons gained from 
sailing, gazing and thinking over these placid waters! 


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GROUND THE WORLD. 


105 


We visit the site of Capernaum, and there are some 
vigorous excavations going on here. Already they 
have dug portions and revealed outlines of the Syna¬ 
gogue in which Jesus preached, and upon whose town 
such withering woes were cast. “O, thou Capernaum 
who are exalted up to heaven, thou shalt be cast down 
to hell.’’ Literally and fearfully is this demonstrated. 
The city is actually down—down below the earth’s 
surface, and the inhabitants long ago went out to meet 
their God, whom they rejected, despised, and insulted, 
by refusing the words of His blessed Son. 

Our time spent on and around these historic and 
sacred shores were full of thought, meditation and re¬ 
search. 

We hasten back to Nazareth and bid it adieu, only 
to journey to Samaria and halt here to view the ruins 
of once the capital of Israel, see the pillars of Herod, 
and the ruins of Ahab’s palace. 

Upon a high mountain between Samaria and 
Sheckum while riding along on our horses, a cloud 
formed around us, and it resulted in almost a cloud¬ 
burst. We were cold, wet and hungry, but remained 
thrilled with the scenery and its sacred significance. 

We visit Sheckum, whose population amounts to 
nineteen thousand. 

The only real Samaritan synagogue in the world 
is here. By a special act of kindness we are admitted 
and handle the oldest copy of the Pentateuch known— 
said to be thirty-seven hundred years old; also a scroll 
of the New Testament claimed to be nine hundred 
years old. 

We met the high priest and the officiating priest, 
who seemed very kind, gentle, and devout. They claim 


io6 


A JOURNEY 


the descendency from the Aaroniac priest-hood. On 
Mt. Gerizim they offer the paschal lamb and per¬ 
form their annual feasts for they stoutly claim that it 
was on this mountain instead of Mt. Moriah that Abra¬ 
ham offered Isaac. 

We pass along where Israel was assembled to hear 
the curse and blessing of the law as it was proclaimed 
to the vast throng assembled between Mt. Ebal and 
Gerizim. 

Jacob’s well is near. We appreciate our early visit 
to this sacred spot, where our Lord rested and gave 
a message to a hungry heart that resulted in its 
salvatton and of the gracious revival that swept over a 
town and many turned to the Lord. 

Shilo was where the Tabernacle stood for five 
hundred years, and where Israel would come yearly 
and offer their sacrifices unto the Lord. The location 
is high and of a commanding beauty. 

We halt at Bethel where Jacob had that memorable 
dream. A little dirty and unattractive village marks 
the renowned spot. Just to our left is the old highway 
where the children of Israel had crossed Jordan and 
came up through the land. 

We pass through Beeroth, the home of the two 
young men who killed Saul’s son and brought his 
head to David, thinking it would please him, but to 
their utter dismay the king was displeased at their 
conduct, ordered that they be treated in the same 
manner. O, the power and law of retribution! “What¬ 
soever a man soweth that shall he also reap.” 

This little village only nine miles from Jerusalem 
is where the parents missed the “child Jesus” from 
their midst, “but supposing Him to be in the company 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


107 


or among the kinsman.” O, the multitudes posing them- 
,selves as Christians upon a close interrogation of their 
spiritual condition, they often say, “I suppose I am 
alright,” “I hope so,” and “I joined the church in good 
faith.” 

At Ramalla we visit and greatly enjoy our associa¬ 
tion with the Friends’ Mission located here, singing 
and speaking to the students. Theirs is a noble, 
worthy and a needy work. The Lord is blessing their 
Bible school, mission and day schools. 

After many days of travelling, all full of profit and 
valuable information, both to mind and soul, over 
mountains and plains in Galilee and Samaria, we are 
nearing ''the city of our God.” You remember as 
Martin Luther walked from Germany to Rome, to re¬ 
ceive special blessings from visiting that mighty city, 
when from a lofty summit he beheld the great metro¬ 
polis, fell on his knees and exclaimed, “Holy Rome, 
I salute you.” 

For the first time in life, from a lofty summit, we 
beheld the domes and spires, and our hearts melt, our 
eyes run full and our voice grows heavy as we repeat 
"Jerusalem, the holy city, I salute thee.” 

The tower erected by the Germans, on Mount of 
Olives, standing about two hundred feet high is the 
first object that arrests the vision from a distance. We 
pass many little but historic places as we approach 
the holy city, but positively space will not admit our 
comment on them, hence we are compelled to pass 
them by and hasten to the more important places and 
events connecting the land and Bible, which facts are 
perfectly harmonious and complete in their narration 
and appearance. 


io8 


A JOURNEY 


We approach the city from the north, from which 
side only the enemy could possibly approach the city 
with any assurance of capturing or besiegement, as 
on either side starting from the north begin valleys 
deep and wide, skirting around the city, thus rendering 
it unapproachable, save from the portion above men¬ 
tioned. 

Our eyes are upon the city of all cities, *'the city 
of our Lord,’’ ‘‘the praise of the whole earth,” and 
toward which all eyes of all nations are turned. It is 
the central figure in Bible history, the glory of current 
history and the charm of all men and minds. It was 
the Jews’ earthly paradise, the home of God’s priest 
and prophets and around and over which all eyes both 
in heaven and of earth gazed. 

Poetic David sang sweetly over this city of infinite 
splendor; the ancient seers spake eloquently and rever¬ 
entially concerning the profound triumphs coming to 
her borders. The wise and saintly prophets broke 
out concerning the heart rending cries that were pend¬ 
ing and which came and divested her of her glory and 
beauty. 

The terrible woes of Jehovah were announced, and 
their coming and pitiful realities marked the desola¬ 
tion and sad lamentation that have left their expression 
upon land and people. 

Jerusalem, once the pride and joy of heaven, the 
attraction of the universe and where our Lord shone 
in the shekinah of His glory!—Jerusalem, the city of 
glorious w’orship, the scene of sacrifice and service. 
O, Jerusalem, the city of our King. He walked in thy 
courts, preached in thy temple, walked down thy 
streets, passed through thy gates, met with thy in- 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


109' 

habitants, rejoiced with those who rejoiced and wept 
with those who wept, suffered with those who suffer¬ 
ed, and helped thy poor, healed many of thy sick, 
brought light and glory to thy people, and He—our 
King—trod thy highways, climbed thy mountains, des¬ 
cended into thy valleys and “Went about doing good.” 
O, Jerusalem! your “Priests took council how they 
might slay Him,” your church leaders lost their oppor¬ 
tunity, sold Him, and then turned Him over to a howl¬ 
ing, blood-thirsty mob to condemn and to kill! Thus 
our King was treated within thy halls, by thy people 
and was crucified “out side the gate!” You killed Him, 
buried Him and then placed a guard about His silent 
tomb. But angels were dispatched from royal courts 
^above, and their presence stilled and held into perfect 
silence the sturdy arms and quick nerves of mighty 
soldiers and our Lord and Master came out triumphant 
over death, hell and the grave, and now is alive forever 
more. 

It was in thy precincts that the glory of the Pente¬ 
costal dispensation was inaugurated, and the Christian 
Church was formed. 

Again, battles, bloody and death-strewn conflicts, 
caused sorrow, suffering and desolation to crowd thy 
gates and leave the city in heaps of rubbish and ruins. 
What caused all this destruction and desolation to the 
greatest city and land of all the earth? 

The sad responses, “You have crucified the Lord 
and put Him to an open shame,” you sold your Lord 
for silver, you traded your King for a robber, and you 
are in possession of your bargain—Mohammedan 
rule, oppression and darkness. 

But lift up your head, ye ancient city, now in 


no 


A JOURNEY 


mourning and humility, for thy King is coming in 
power and great glory. He will arise upon thee and 
lift this cloud of sorrow and suffering and that terrible 
yoke of Mohammedan bondage and servitude from 
thy neck. He will shed His light and beauty upon 
thee, as in olden days, ancf thy splendor and glory shall 
radiate through all the world. The enemy shall de¬ 
part from thy courts, and the saints of the Most High 
shall dwell in peace within thy walls. The day of thy 
redemption draweth nigh. Look up and cast away 
your sins of disobedience and apostasy, turn your face 
from the past, confess thy cruel treatment toward thy 
King and He will forgive and restore you. He will 
roll back the clouds of spiritual darkness now hovering 
over thy priest and people. He will break the fetters 
of political and social bondage and lift the load of pres¬ 
ent rule, and restore thy people and Church unto her 
right and proper place to that of triumph, glory, beauty 
and power. This He will do, if you will only permit 
it to be done. 

Time and place forbid our reference to all the sa¬ 
cred and interesting scenes and important places afford¬ 
ing themselves in abundance, in and around this his¬ 
torical, wonderful, mysterious and charming city. 

There is so much tradition, superstition and false 
opinions clamouring for the recognition of the travel¬ 
er's eye and attention, until if he should believe and 
accept it all, he would be stunted, and conflicts of 
speculation, resulting in battles with a thing closely 
related to doubt, would be his lot. But one thing is 
pre-eminently true, and that is the land and the Bible 
compare in perfect harmony. This alone, is a scathing 
rebuke to infidelity. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


Ill 


We visit the Church of the holy Sepulchre, a place 
which all Greek and Latin Catholics together with the 
Coptic and Syrian Churches stoutly claim is where the 
place of crucifixion and burial of our Lord was, and all 
this is inside of the city walls. You will witness more 
idolatry carried on within this Church, or better known 
as “a Church of Churches’" than can scarcely be found 
in any lands—that of image and material worship, 
such as the cross, stone images and the different places 
that they maintain were connected with the life and 
death of our Lord, especially His resurrection. When 
the facts are that the majority of all true followers of 
“the beautiful Nazarene” utterly reject the authority, 
history, location and regalia manifest in this Church. 
Upon arrival, you will notice “a hill” bearing the de¬ 
scription given in the Scriptures situated just “outside 
the gate,” “The place of a skull.” It is the true Cal¬ 
vary. We are satisfied with its location, description 
and general appearance, that this is Calvary, where 
our price was paid and our salvation was purchased. 
The World’s Sunday school Convention was aiming 
to convene upon or very near Calvary. When this in¬ 
telligence reached the Sultan of Turkey, he at once 
decrees that a stone wall surround “that hill lone and 
gray,” consequently a great wall encloses the place 
“where Jesus suffered and died.” The convention 
failed to pitch their tent here, and but very few of its 
anxious delegates were permitted to enter upon the 
sacred summit. Upon our approach we found the huge 
iron gate open and no gateman present. Thus we 
were thrilled with the precious privilege of standing 
upon the sacred, solemn and memorable hillock. We 
shall never forget those hours, as we stood upon the 


112 


A JOURNEY 


hill where the world’s greatest battle was fought and 
the triumph upon which shall conquer earth and hell 
and will crown the saint, thrill the angels and cause 
heaven and eternity to ring with shouts of eternal vic¬ 
tory—all through Jesus. 

We visit the tomb of Joseph, where the King lay 
silent for the allotted time, and then arose in power, 
and to reign forever. We walk around the city several 
times, gaze upon the walls and their towers, visit the 
Mount of Olives, climb the German tower about two 
hundred feet high, and we from this lofty perch, look 
around on the sacred scene and then turn our gaze up 
into the blue heavens. Our mind recalls and our faith 
catches a new glimpse of that sacred promise, “He 
shall come in like manner as ye have seen Him go 
away.” Again we are thrilled as this verse sweeps 
into our mind and soul. “His feet shall stand on 
Mount Olivet.” At this juncture I feel such strong 
drawings toward our “home beyond the crystal sea,” 
that we feel symptoms of heaven’s attraction so heavy 
that we almost feel like bidding farewell to all of 
earth, and penetrate the beautiful heavens. But then 
we remember the millions of earth “living in darkness 
and the shadow of death,” and “without God and hope 
in the world.” Then we become reconciled to the 
situation, and recall the dignity of our calling and 
commission as a minister of the New Testament, then 
we cry out, “O, Lord make us indeed soul-winners and 
fulfil our mission in life and be ready to meet Thee 
with a shout at Thy glorious appearing.” 

Our visit to Jericho, Jordan and the Dead Sea was 
edifying, profitable and of valuable importance. 

We passed the Samaritans where that deed of true 



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’ROUND THE WORLD. 


113 

Christian religion was wrought. The universal prin¬ 
ciple and philosophy taught is, ‘‘Be administered to by 
the Lord with redeeming grace in the salvation of your 
own soul, and then turn out to ministering unto others, 
pointing them to “the Lamb of God that taketh away 
the sin of the world,” and assist them in matters re¬ 
sulting in their benefaction.' 

The Dead Sea is twelve hundred feet below sea 
level. The density of its waters will admit your 
weight so that one cannot sink. This we tried. 

At the ancient and historic ford of Jordan there 
was a sacred Baptismal service performed, when three 
of our company—the two Roberts brothers, and the 
writer received the solemn ordinance at the hands of 
Dr. Godbey, in the historic stream. What a blessed 
occasion it was! As we stood on Jordan’s banks and 
sang that good old hymn, 

“Alas, and did my Saviour bleed. 

And did my Sovereign die. 

Would He devote that sacred head 
For such a worm as I.” 

Then after the rite was administered, all joined 
sweetly and softly in that sacred verse, 

“All hail the power of Jesus’ name. 

Let angels prostrate fall, ' 

Bring forth the royal diadem 

And crown Him Lord of all.” 

^ This was at sunset, in company with our drago¬ 
man, coachman and guard, and the four above men¬ 
tioned, which composed the little audience, and above 
all and with us was the sweet presence of Jesus. This 
was an epochal period in our lives. 


A JOURNEY 


114 

Jericho is a little mud village of little interest. 
Bethany held our interest and gaze. 

Bethlehem was a place of sweetest joy to us, as we 
remembered the blessed Son of God made His advent 
into the world in this quiet little village. 

The Church of Nativity was a place of great inter¬ 
est to our hearts as also was the lonely, sweet, sacred 
and “solemn Gethsemane.” O, the hours of silent 
prayer, meditation and heart-searching which charac¬ 
terized our visits to this silent scene, where the sor¬ 
row, suffering and supplication of “Jesus, the Man of 
Sorrow,'" made it forever sacred. 

Hebron and its environs were enjoyed. We ate 
dinner under the designated ancient oak of Abraham, 
just at the top of “the plain of Manire," before the 
angels visited the saintly patriarch, where by his tent 
they stood. 

“The Valley of Eschol" is famous for the splendid 
quantity and quality of grapes yielded there. We en¬ 
joyed them so much. 

Rachal's tomb stands on the highway between 
Jerusalem and Bethlehem. 

Solomon's pools are of profound interest, on ac¬ 
count of their size, completeness, utility and impor¬ 
tance and enterprise. 

We visited “the sealed fountain" mentioned in the 
Songs of Solomon. They are shut up, hidden; the 
water is cool, clear, healthy, pure, plenteous and is very 
valuable. This is all very suggestive in its relation 
to the Church and individual's life. 

We had the inestimable pleasure and honor of con¬ 
ducting services in the Christian Missionary Alliance 
Mission. Rev. Thompson is the superintendent of the 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


115 

Palestine district. It is a gracious circuit. We had 
a blessed time here, the thought of preaching “in Jeru¬ 
salem and Judea and Samaria and unto the uttermost 
parts of the earth," was gracious and thrilling to our 
hearts. 

Of all the places in need of a preacher “full of faith 
and the Holy Ghost," and a church “filled with all the 
fullness of God," it is Jerusalem. O, the dryness, dead¬ 
ness of forms, the coldness and fireless worship and 
the good and great, but powerless sermons that abound 
in this metropolis of “world-citizens." 

Dr. Johnson, pastor of one of New York City’s 
Presbyterian pulpits, did some fine, arousing preach¬ 
ing, the very kind needed. The people would linger 
and thirst after the experience which he so beautifully 
and powerfully described—that of full salvation from 
all sin. But he would paint the picture or describe 
the beauty and practicability of such a grace and then 
leave them to wonder, wait and thirst—wouldn’t urge 
them to then and there seek and obtain the deliver¬ 
ance which he so clearly taught. 

Our twelve days’ stay in “The Holy City" will ever 
be bright and blessed in our mind and memory. 

The Mosque of Omar occupies the site of the tem¬ 
ple, and no Jew is allowed within the temple grounds 
—the place where their priest performed the ceremon¬ 
ies, taught and commanded under the law, the place 
where the glory and presence of our God was ever 
manifest, and where the worshipful Jew rejoiced, now 
has become a place entirely closed from their footsteps 
and anxious eyes. Hence the Scripture is verified. 
“Their enemies shall possess thy gates." Now the 
wandering Jew can only approach to the outside of the 


ii6 


A JOURNEY 


temple wall in a space some ninety feet long and ten 
wide. They gather once or twice each week and read 
the old Scriptures, cry, weep, pray and lament. It is 
touching, and our Lord will hear their penitent cry, 
and answer in mercy. Young and old, rich and poor 
—all alike meet here and cry, leaning against and kiss¬ 
ing the walls which separate them from where the tem¬ 
ple stood. 

When they cried out, ‘‘Let Him be crucified, and 
let His blood be upon us and our children,’^ and when 
they asked for the robber instead of Jesus, they re¬ 
ceived the robber—and they have been robbed of their 
nation, their government, their rights and more spec¬ 
ially of the sacred precinct—the temple, and now they 
have sorrow, suffering, persecution, no place or nation ; 
but oppression and servitude is their portion. Why? 
Simply in selling Jesus they sold their all. 

The population of Jerusalem ranges between seven¬ 
ty-five and one hundred thousand inhabitants. About 
fifty thousand are Jews, the others are Mohammedans 
and then the Europeans and Americans. There are 
said to be more now outside the walls than the popu¬ 
lation inside. 

The immigration, especially among the Jews, to this 
land is on the increase. Notwithstanding the prevail¬ 
ing rules of the Turkish law, rendering it impossible 
for the Jew to possess land and not to engage in enter¬ 
prising features too much, yet they come hither to live 
and to be buried, in the glorious city of our King. 

We call on the Bishop of the Syrian Church—a 
Christian institution—and while in his beautiful com¬ 
partments we talk and exchange our views upon vital 
subjects. Amid our social interview, the waiter serves 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


117 

tea, after which he passes a package of “Duke’s 
cigarctts,” which we very calmly, but most positively 
refused. The Bishop was surprised and seemed trou¬ 
bled at our position on “the smoke problem,” and he 
said, “Well, I was contemplating a visit to America, 
but if no one there uses or sells tobacco, I will decline 
my anticipated American visit.” Now reader, study 
the problem and survey the situation, then wonder 
what next. Just think! The visit of a Bishop some¬ 
what determined upon laws governing the tobacco 
traffic! But upon being informed that the tobacco- 
god had his multitudes of loving devotees both in the 
Church (what a pity) and among the sinners (bad 
enough) of America, his face seemed to catch “new 
light,” and concludes by saying, “I shall endeavor to 
pay America a cheerful visit.” 

You see this tobacco curse has become well-nigh 
a universal plague within the pales of the Christian 
church. O, for the glad happy day of its emancipa¬ 
tion and deliverance! 

It is too bad the sound or sight of the locomotive 
was ever heard or seen upon the sacred soil of Pales¬ 
tine. But there are still greater railroad projects on 
foot throughout this land. We take train in the 
Holy City, and bid it a loving adieu with more reluc¬ 
tance than we did our own fair native land upon our 
departure for this long and perilous journey. 

We turn from the city with its ancient manners 
and customs, peoples and religions. Our little iron 
horse goes galloping down the slopes, surges up the 
grades, and sweeps around the base of the Judean 
hills, dotted here and there with olive-trees, vine¬ 
yards, gardens and grain fields, occasional villages 


ii8 


A JOURNEY 


either of mud or stone, the terraced-side mountains 
and old ruins or some large building, marking the 
spot of some historic event, forms a set of paintings 
that constitute a small portion of the charming scen¬ 
ery to be enjoyed enroute from Jerusalem to Joppa. 

You will observe the farmers using the one-handle 
plow as is mentioned in the gospel. These plows are 
usually drawn by the buffalo or bullock. We pass 
many places made famous because of some illus¬ 
trious event during the life and ministry of Jesus and 
His Apostles, or by the mighty heroes of ancient days. 

Our train soon rolls down the beautiful hills of 
Judea, and we go sweeping along the great plain of 
Sharon. This plain is exceedingly rich and produc¬ 
tive. Great orange groves, figs, lemons and olives are 
the principal product nearer the sea, but back from 
the shores grew grain and meadows, great hedges of 
cactus are prevalent almost all over Palestine. The 
natives eat the pods and the camel feeds on leaf and 
pod. 

We pass the site of Sampson’s home-town, then to 
Lydda, which was the seat of an early Christian com¬ 
munity. Joppa is the seaport for Jerusalem, and has a 
population of twenty-five thousand, and is in a flour¬ 
ishing condition. As around it are the productive gar¬ 
dens and orchards with a good degree of small grains. 
Then the commercial and industrial activities make 
this an important city. One of the most important dis¬ 
advantages to be found to Joppa is its treacherous and 
exceeding dangerous harbor. It has a rocky coast, 
and a rough entrance, which renders large ships unable 
to get nearer than one and two miles from the land¬ 
ing. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


119 

We visit the house of Dorcas, that noble and 
illustrious “Woman, who was full of good works and 
almsdeeds which she did.” This queenly saint and 
graceful character fell asleep in Jesus; the young and 
struggling Church felt their great loss and not know¬ 
ing how they could get along without this powerful 
and untiring worker in their Church, became exercis¬ 
ed in heart and soul, having heard of Peter, who was 
at this time in Joppa, who was sent for in post haste, 
who came to the scene of death. Weeping and heavy 
with grief, he knelt down and prayed and in the name 
and power of Jesus who is “the Way, the Truth and 
the Life,” and she arose. Death met life and life con- 
^quered, and great joy filled their souls. The result was, 
“Many believed on the Lord.” 

The house of “Simon the tanner,” by the sea¬ 
side was visited. They claim that this is evidently the 
identical house so famous for the vision, the sleep¬ 
ing preacher, and narrative that is connected. 

In the Alliance Mission we heartily enjoy singing 
and speaking to the school with the bright faced girls 
and boys. Then they sang so sweetly, although in 
their native tongue, but it was full of life, melody and 
the blessed Holy Spirit. 

As our stay in the promised land is now limited, 
we must hurry around and get a few glimpses of 
Canaan. You will notice where the land and country 
are properly cared for, that good and inviting ex¬ 
pression repeated in the Scriptures, can be observed 
at this time—“a land flowing with milk and honey,” 
and “is abounding in corn and wine.” 

The Germans and French are making some mar¬ 
velous developments in farming and gardening. 


120 


A JOURNEY 


f 


CHAPTER XL 

FROM PALESTINE TO INDIA. 

We have hastily mentioned only a few towns, 
places and events, and described but little of these, 
it would have been utmost joy of our heart to have 
told more, especially of the land in which our Saviour 
was born, suffered, died and was resurrected, and from 
whose soil His sacred feet departed to the royal 
courts above. But as our long journey tO' the great 
East lies yet before us we are constrained to close our 
comments on the patrimony of Israel. 

After prayer with the mission-workers, as the 
gong is now sounding, we hasten to the sea-side, and 
find the currents so swift, the tide so high, and the 
sea very rough and dangerous. As was mentioned, 
the condition of this harbor cannot permit the large 
vessels to enter port, hence we secure a small craft, 
which is manipulated by some four or six strong men. 
We four and our good and kind Christian guide are 
out from land, tossed about as though we would cer¬ 
tainly capsize upon the boisterous bosom of ‘‘The 
great Sea.” 

Soon our ship has been reached by much strug¬ 
gling and wrestling of the boatsmen. We are on 
board our ship which will carry us away to Port Said. 
Our good guide leaves us crying, and we breathe a 
prayer for him that he will be as kind, honest, profit¬ 
able and as good to those who employ him, as his 
thirty days of service rendered him to us. I must not 



The Tower of Silence 











’ROUND THE WORLD 


I2I 


forbear to give his name and address, as in case you 
should visit the holy land, there is no better drago¬ 
men than Mr. Shukrey Hishmeh, Jerusalem, Pales¬ 
tine. 

Our steamer rolls out and across the trackless deep. 
The shores, the beautiful mountains of Judea and the 
fair fields of Canaan are now fading from our vision. 
The sea roars and thunders as the waves and billows 
crash against our ship. The old ocean-liner groans 
and rolls as the angry deep tosses her about, and 
many of our passengers are growing restless and sick 
and turning white in the face. 

We gaze in vain to see once more the sacred hills 
of beautiful Canaan. Good-bye sacred shores and 
-fields of Palestine! 

Port Said is built right at the entrance of the Suez 
Canal, and is not quite thirty years old, and has a pop¬ 
ulation of more than forty thousand. 

Here we had a very blessed revival, a number get¬ 
ting converted and others receiving the grace of en¬ 
tire sanctification, among whom were two teachers 
who had been educated in the Presbyterian College 
of Beyroute, and one very beautiful and accomplished 
young lady missionary from California; then a very 
fine cultured native of Ceylon. We labored more than 
ten days in all in this city with the Peniel Mission, 
which is a part of that great work carried on and hon¬ 
ored of the Lord under the wise ministry of Rev. and 
Sister Ferguson, of the Pacific coast. The mission- 
workers of this city are Sisters Richardson and Trip- 
plet, and we had services with the Seaman’s Rest, an 
institution and mission for the sailors and seamen. 
This is a great and needy field. 


122 


A JOURNEY 


We are now on board the “Moolton,” of the P. and 
O. Company; they run the largest and best ships out 
from London to India. A ship having a cargo of 
seventy tons of dynamite sank near the mouth, and 
in the gerat canal; this was exploded, that naviga¬ 
tion be assumed, and in the meanwhile, there were 
from fifty to seventy-five large steamers gathered, 
who were going out East. This gave us a splendid 
opportunity to preach full salvation, which all con¬ 
verted people need, and for which their souls hunger 
after. The Lord gave His seal and blessed sanction 
upon our labors while in the Key-city. 

From the deck of our ship we waved farewell to the 
many friends we had formed during our stay of evan¬ 
gelistic labors in this city. 

We pass down the Suez canal, a wonderful latter- 
day enterprise. It is one hundred miles long, thirty 
yards wide and thirty feet deep; it was constructed at 
the enormous cost of one hundred million dollars. 
There were employed sixteen thousand camels to 
carry out the dirt and carry down the stone, as it is 
walled so as to insure against land slides. The entire 
canal is furnished with both flag and block-signals. 

,We pass where that old ship laden with dynamite 
exploded, and a great hole in the earth was torn by the 
explosives of that dreaded cargo. 

Great Britain now controls and owns the entrance 
of the great Sea at Gibralter. She owns and controls 
this canal and rules Aden and the gulf of Aden, hence 
you see her ships and sailors are in perfect safety from 
London to Bombay—her India possessions. All ships 
that pass in or out of this canal pay a good fee you 
readily see the value of this enterprise. Again, it 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


123 


shortens the route and especially the time in going 
from London to Bombay, as the old route was, away 
down around the coast and southern point of Africa, 
and it required three months to go from London to 
Bombay and return, but now you can make entire 
round trip in forty days, a difference of fifty days. 

You can see the hand of the Lord in this project, 
relative to the spread of His glorious gospel. Thus it 
will be that of our Panama Canal for United States to 
dispense the gospel to all Mexico, Central and South 
America. We as the Church of God on earth, must 
keep step and fill the open doors, as the new and 
mighty inventions and modern developments are pro¬ 
viding for us. 

Our majestic old ocean-queen sails slowly and 
steadily as we pass down the canal. The country is 
dry, sandy and hot. To our right (going) is Ethiopia 
and to our left, Arabia. The sun shines with tremen¬ 
dous glare and power, but at night the queen is robed 
with glory and charming splendor.' The beautiful 
constellations that fill the blue, clear, heavens are un¬ 
doubtedly more attractive here than anywhere in the 
Old World. It is no wonder that astronomy originated 
in Arabia. 

Now we enter the Red Sea, and cross the path of 
the journeying host of God when enroute from Egypt 
to Canaan. This is better known as “The Way that 
Israel journeyed.” We are pointed out the historic 
crossing where the mighty God with His omnipotence 
came down and swept back the waters with His breath, 
and the advancing host “walked over dry shod.” But 
the pursuing enemy sought entrance into the open 
path, and on their vigorous attempt became over- 


124 


A JOURNEY 


whelmed with walls of water, consequently were en¬ 
veloped, and “they remain there unto this day.” 

The mountains of Arabia are bold, bare and gi¬ 
gantic. Grand old Mt. Sinai stands in the heated at¬ 
mosphere with his frowning face on whose summit roll¬ 
ed smoke and flames of fire, and from whose brow 
leaped the quivering lightenings and peals of mighty 
thunders, and “Moses, the man of God” stood amid 
the solemn and august presence of Jehovah, who 
was now giving expression of His attitude and dispo¬ 
sition toward sin, and inscribing with power and awful 
demonstration His law relative to man and his life and 
destiny. 

The weather is extremely warm and oppressive, so 
much so that a great many men sleep out upon deck. 

We pass down the Red Sea, which is several hun¬ 
dred miles in length, and varying in width, but not 
wider than thirty miles. 

Aden is upon the southermost point of Arabia, and 
belongs to England, taken by way of retaliation on ac¬ 
count of the mistreatment of a disabled ship by the 
natives. Great Britain hurried off down here in 1837 
with men and means and gave the governing official a 
good flogging and took charge of the city and settle¬ 
ment. 

The population is about thirty-five thousand, 
chiefly the natives, Somalis, fall and savage looking 
and with yellow mop-heads. Here, all steamers call 
and also coal. 

The ship is surrounded and swarming with the 
natives, who come to sell Ostrich-feathers to the pas¬ 
sengers. You will notice men and boys, with a little 
girdle on their loins sitting or standing in little long 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


125 


and exceedingly narrow pig-trough boats, .boating all 
around our great steamer calling out to our passengers 
on board “Say, misty, dime, dive!” He meant if you 
would pitch a dime over-board and let it sink he 
would dive off from his little sharp craft and find it 
away down in the deep; sometimes I would conclude 
he had got caught, or had come up under our ship and 
had become strangled and was drowned; but after a 
long time you would see his black head, then his 
brown body, bob up and he draws his hand over his 
face to clear away the spray, then lift the dime up, 
demonstrating his triumph. They have no clothes and 
no pockets and nothing but that little strip of cloth 
on their person, so they store the coin away in their 
mouth and proceed to renew the feat. Truly the scene 
is quite amusing and interesting. 

Now we bid good-bye to Africa and start across 
the great Indian ocean, enroute to India; the distance 
from Port Said to Bombay is nearly four thousand 
miles. 

Our steamer “Moolton” so named after a city in far 
away India was launched not long since, and this is 
her first trip East, consequently the elite Society, 
dolls and dudes, from London are the dominating 
human species. Still worse, we have on board a num¬ 
ber of out-going missionaries, together with a number 
of returning workers who have been on “a home- 
leave,” but now are enroute back to their respective 
stations of work. The two latter characters I shall refer 
to in a following chapter, hence will pass by and make 
mention now of some features respecting the com¬ 
pany, minus our missionaries. 

Our captain appears to be a devout, congenial Chris- 


126 


A JOURNEY 


tian gentleman, but the principal part of the ship^s 
crew are rough, unapproachable and given to un¬ 
pleasant manners. The solid, deep, and serious 
thinking minds seemed to be scarce and rare articles, 
speaking from observation of the situation. Of course 
there are some noble spirits and beautiful characters on 
board, but the majority were of that craft which deals 
in frivolous, cheap ^‘beggarly elements” and worthless 
amusements. 

A “Sporting Club” was organized; they invited us 
to partake, which we modestly declined, but during 
a singing exercise we were invited to sing, and this we 
accepted. The Lord helped us to sing “Naaman the 
Leper,” “Jonah and the Whale,” also “Dying and 
away from home,” all of which if sung in the Spirit, 
will produce a silent but peaceful effect upon the giddy 
and gay. 

Service on board was conducted by a distinguished 
English clergyman of “The high Church,” who gave 
a masterly message, but evidenced the absence of 
spiritual power. Thus the mind and attention were 
drawn to the appearance and the construction of the 
sermon, instead of the power and quality of the truth, 
which should command the eye, ear and heart of the 
audience. I 

After ten days swift sailing across the Indian Ocean 
we view for the first time in life “the land of idols,” 
The state of mind, the feeling of heart and burden of 
soul can only be realized as you behold for your first 
time the dark domains of heathendom. 


GROUND THE WORLD. 


127 


CHAPTER XII. 

BRITISH INDIA. 

It was early in the morning when our huge engines 
and great propellers ceased their revolving, and we 
gazed out through the port-hole of our state room, 
and our vision was filled with new and strange sights. 
The great city of Bombay was stretching out before 
us, on the shore up and down the charming coast for 
several miles, with the large government houses, uni¬ 
versity buildings and church spires piercing the air; 
then heathen temples with their usual flag-poles, and 
from these the red waving banner. The scenery be¬ 
comes more charming as we behold the stately palms, 
banyan, and mangal trees, all of which are large, green 
and graceful. 

We steam into port, enter and pass the government 
custom house, and now we pass onto the soil and 
shores of India. The scene on the dock was touching. 
There friends and loved ones were meeting, cheering 
and receiving each other, until we just threw ourselves 
into the operation and felt as though they were glad 
that we came that way. The tears of joy were free 
and plentiful. It did us so much good to witness the 
relatives and friends as they with joy unbounded, re¬ 
ceived their coming loved ones. 

How glad and good we feel to be on land again. 
It is refreshing to the mind, and joyous to the eye to 
be engaged in seeing the strange street scenes and 
peculiar objects in all directions. 


128 


A JOURNEY 


Bombay is the commercial and well-nigh the finan¬ 
cial metropolis of India. The present population 
reaches about eight hundred thousand, and is on a 
rapid increase. There is little doubt that the West 
coast of India had trade relations with the Assyrian, 
Persian and Roman Empires, but the direct connec¬ 
tions with modern Europe dates only from 1498. But 
it was not until in 1616 that the English appeared on 
the scene. It will be fitting here to tell the reader how 
came England into possession of India. It was direct¬ 
ly the result of the formation and later the splendid 
operations of what was known as “The East India 
Company” which was composed of English mer¬ 
chants and manufacturers of England. They came 
here in 1665, and founded English colonies, erected 
large factories and formed a trade relation with the 
natives. This called for English troops to guard their 
fellow-countrymen and their property, and trouble 
arose between the settlers, and native troops and over 
the prosperous merchants and their developing enter¬ 
prises, which resulted in steady but stubborn conquest 
by the British. City after city and territory after ter¬ 
ritory fell victims to the English army, but not so easy 
or without sturdy conflicts, bloody battles and long 
sieges, when great suffering, privation and death claim¬ 
ed their thousands from the Red-coats. But the grand 
climax of all battles, uprisings and demonstrat'ons of 
riotous natives occurred in the more central provinces 
in 1857, better known throughout the world as “The 
Meeting of 1857,” or the Sepoy rebellion. The British 
force at this time in India was only about forty thou¬ 
sand and that of the Sepoys numbered two and forty 
thousand. • The centers of this bloody conflict were 




Our Elephant Ride in India. 














’ROUND THE WORLD. 


129 


Lucknow, Cawnpore and Dehli. Cawnpore was where 
the rebels did such havoc among the soldiers and es¬ 
pecially among the English and native Christians, 
They would murder them and then cast their bodies 
into wells. At Cawnpore we saw the place where a 
large deep well was located; the murdered Christians 
were thrown into it, and since that time there has been 
a beautiful stone wall built around it, and in the center 
of this wall, just over the well, and of beautiful work¬ 
manship, is a monument—the angel of Resurrection, 
and stands just over the well. Around the pedestal is 
this Scripture: “These are they which came up out of 
great tribulation, and have washed their robes and 
made them white in the blood of the Lamb.” It is ap¬ 
propriate and befitting to the situation and dreadful 
scenes connected with it. 

Thus ended the rebellion in India to English right 
and rule, and but very little rebellion among the na¬ 
tives have been demonstrated against the power and 
authority of Great Britain on India’s soil to this day. 
This will serve to explain the ways and means used 
by Britain in securing the great Empire of India. 
India claims three hundred million population. Of 
course this includes all nationalities, in this estima¬ 
tion. 

The area is one million eighty-seven thousand, four 
hundred and four square miles. British and native 
troops number two hundred and thirty-eight thou¬ 
sand and in addition there are twenty-two thousand 
native reserves with fifty-eight thousand volunteers, 
and the startling number of ninety thousand semi- 
trained troops, above all the others, with all Great 
Britain has at her command, the enormous throng of 


130 


A JOURNEY 


three hundred and eighty-six thousand strong in India. 
Who can estimate the expenses the army of India is 
to her Empire? 

Bombay is the center of commercial activity, and 
is the principal landing from the western or from 
European nations for all India. 

The Parsees, formerly inhabitants of Persia are 
the prosperous and influential population of Qurat, 
and Bombay. They are followers of Zoroaster, who, 
they claim, brought fire from heaven, and is kept burn¬ 
ing in their consecrated spots. To this we will refer at 
another time. 

The European customs and manners will be noticed 
in the buildings, streets, railroads, and in dress and 
general appearance among the more cultured and 
wealthy of the natives. But you will be greatly at¬ 
tracted by the poorer class, with their different colored 
robes, their manner of life and the various customs 
which will charm your gaze, more especially in the na¬ 
tive parts and districts of the cities and towns. 

Victoria Terminus is said to be one of the finest and 
most attractive depots in the eastern or western 
hemispheres. The construction, the material and 
architectural beauty, it is claimed, no nation can sur¬ 
pass, but as we had often gazed around and upon the 
Union Station of St. Louis, we take issue on the sub¬ 
ject. The railroad enterprise of India cannot be sur¬ 
passed for excellent road-bed, large steel, fast trains, 
pleasant accommodations and moderate prices 
in transportation. The telegraph system is of no little 
import, as there are but few telephone lines, but the 
telegraph is the means of rapid communication. 

There are hundreds of large and small cities dot- 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


131 

ting this vast domain up and down the famous rivers. 

The form of British government in India is as fol¬ 
lows: The supreme authority, subject to the control 
of the Secretary of State for India, is vested in the 
Viceroy and Governor-General, and his six council- 
members. These are the commanders-in-chief in In¬ 
dia, and members in charge of home revenue and 
public works. 

Then there are the lower rank of civil officers, 
such as police, justice and wardens, custom and gov¬ 
ernment surgeons. 

The commerical and financial aspect of India be¬ 
comes gigantic in proportion, and powerful for its 
annual increase. The postoffice department shows 
the number of postoffices in round numbers is thir¬ 
teen thousand, and with a grand total of annual let¬ 
ters, packages, parcels, papers and money-orders 
reaching five hundred and forty-six million. There are 
fifty-five thousand miles of telegraph lines, and in 
1901 there were twenty-five thousand, three hundred 
and seventy-three miles under construction and oper¬ 
ation, and the number of passengers conveyed in the 
year was one hundred and ninety-five million. 

The financial feature of the government revenue 
is the the enormous sum of thirty-seven billion dol¬ 
lars, and the total expenditure is about thirty-six 
billion; this leaves a grand total above all expenses of 
one billion in the treasury. The national debt of In¬ 
dia is one billion dollars, and the railway and irriga¬ 
tion works, assessments, more than counterbalance 
the debt and usually leaves about sixty million dol¬ 
lars in the government’s treasury. The principal pro¬ 
ducts of India vary with the climates and zones, as 


132 


A JOURNEY 


you may find all kinds of climates, temperatures and 
conditions of weather, land and people in this vast 
empire. Cotton, rice, sugar and tropical fruits in the 
southern portions, while farther up are corn, wheat, 
rice and vegetables, and still farther until the great 
mountains are encountered, where timbers, ores and 
precious metals are the commodity. The opium, 
poppy and tobacco fields abound, but more in the 
Bengali province. The banana, mangrove and guava 
are the best selection of fruits, but other kinds flour¬ 
ish in their various and respective sections. 

Bombay, Delhi, Agra,Lucknow, Cawnpore, Be¬ 
nares, Lahore, Madrass, Calcutta, Allahabad, and 
Darjeeling are the principal cities, but there are many 
score whose populatibn rise above fifty to one hundred 
thousand that we shall not here name. 

Most of the marketing or carrying of burdens is 
done on the ox or the buffalo-cart, while the camel 
and donkey have their usual place in the general rou¬ 
tine of farming or public work. 

Let us notice one of the native bazaars or markets 
of India. The main street is narrow, and crowded 
\ ith pack-horses, loaded ox-carts, burdened donkies 
or camels, then men and women in their peculiar and 
varied colors and customs of dress and head-gear, and 
each with a load of fruits, vegetables or some com¬ 
modity for the market. Then you will be halted to 
buy razors, knives, pins, buttons, stones, walking- 
sticks and handkerchiefs; they will persist in your buy¬ 
ing. Men who sell pictures and post-cards swarm 
around you, to urge you to engage their services. 
Then perhaps a man can’t use two dozen English 
words, or if he does understand English his caste will 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


133 


not allow him to serve you as a general servant. For 
illustration, suppose you engage a Hindu man to be 
your guide and servant for three days while in one 
city; he will come to your room early, shine your 
shoes, brush the clothes, dust the room, keep your 
apartment neat and clean, but upon your entering the 
dining-room he fails to enter and see that you are 
properly cared for, you will observe other servants 
standing at the back of other men, then the question 
arises *‘Where is my servant, Why is he not by my 
chair?’' The answer comes, his caste won’t allow him 
to assist at the table; it would be a disgrace and a 
degradation should he thus break his caste. I mention 
this incident illustrating the life of Hindustan and 
their rigid rules and customs. 

Back to the market. The stores are very small and 
lack in light and ventilation. The goods or wares are 
quite well packed away, and the salesman sits down 
on his ankles in the center of the little room on the 
floor, and is usually dressed in a very attractive man¬ 
ner, but on your approach he appears generous, polite 
and persistent in approaching you to make a bar¬ 
gain, assuring you all the while that all the good and 
great buy of him, and that his goods are the best, his 
prices the lowest and that no other shop in town 
does the amount of business. In fact they don’t seem 
to run out of something to say. 

I am surprised to see how clean they keep the 
roads swept, and their fields appear just after harvest 
as though no crops had been raised on the land in a 
long time. Why? Well they cut their grain with the 
old-fashion reap-hook—surely a three thousand year 
custom— and then the stubble is not two inches high; 


134 


A JOURNEY 


and then after this all grass, no matter how short, 
and the stubble, is cut off even with the ground, leav¬ 
ing the ground bare. 

The farming implements and their usage in India 
constitute a feature, full of interest and genuine amuse¬ 
ment. The plow is of wood, many times from point 
to handle and to end of the pole that is used for the 
beam; but there are some iron points to be seen. It is 
mere scratching the earth’s surface. It is drawn either 
by bullocks or buffaloes. The grain is reaped as above 
described and hauled into town or to the rivers and 
canals on wooden, two-wheeled carts of a heavy crude 
construction. 

Women are to be seen on the streets and high¬ 
ways gathering up all the refuse putting it into baskets 
and taking it home, there it is dried into thin wafers 
and then is sold on the market for fuel. The Avomen 
who make their living by this means, are usually of 
the lowest caste, but not necessarily of low morals, 
as the thought would perhaps arise. 

Then the street-sweeper is a step higher in their 
caste-system. The road-system in India is an admir¬ 
able enterprise. You can mount a bicycle or an auto¬ 
mobile and travel for hundreds of miles on roads 
similar to the good highways of Kentucky. 

The irrigation and canal system too, is no small 
feature, and deserves our reference. The value of ir¬ 
rigation works is sixty-five million dollars. Out from 
the Ganges, Jumna and Hooghly rivers run in their 
respective directions, lines and water-ways across 
those vast plains of most fruitful and highly produc¬ 
tive soil, whose thousands of square miles contain 
many millions of India’s toilers. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


135 


Little villages, made of mud, straw and bamboo, 
stand all huddled up so close that there will be about 
enough room for a horse, cow or a person to pass be¬ 
tween their little mud huts. 

As the natives seldom ever use windows or but 
one door, in their little hovel, and it is a common 
sight to see a house full of little half-dressed children 
and not at all unusual for them to be without clothing; 
the donkey, dog, goat, calf, and buffalo all around the 
same door. Then add to this unfavorable situation 
another plague of India, the big crow. They seem 
quite tame, friendly and very annoying, as they chirp 
so loud, and it is not at all unusual for them to fly 
into the hotel or mission-house and perch themselves 
upon the table, or in front of the mirror-^that 
smacks of the peacock to be found in America, in its 
varied forms and species. 

As in Palestine so it is here—most all farmers live 
in villages, and go out to work their farms. 

The dress worn by the common native woman 
consists of a piece of calico or a better quality of 
goods about one yard wide and three to six yards 
long, this they begin wrapping around their bodies, 
and when finished, either end of the cloth fastens 
around the waist or over the shoulder. It is clean, 
neat and beautiful in its appearance. 

Most all women veil their face when out in public 
and when at home live behind latticed windows or 
doors that the public’s eye may not rest upon her, the 
woman’s rights feeling have little place in the far 
East. But thanks be unto our God, the load and 
yoke of their oppression and bondage is slowly but 
surely lifting, and the day of their deliverance from 


136 


A JOURNEY 


sorrow and mistreatment is certainly dawning, the 
light and glory of their Redeemer is, even now, pene¬ 
trating those “Zenana-prisons,” seeking their blessed 
release. 



Gospel Itinerating in India. 












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GROUND THE WORLD. 


137 


CHAPTER XIII. 

THE LAND OF RELIGIONS. 

We propose that this chapter shall give the reader 
something of a panoramic view of the religious state 
and condition of the people of India in general. To 
undertake a careful and systematic investigation of the 
scores of various doctrines, philosophies, traditions 
and superstitions of paganistic teachings and prac¬ 
tice, would make a volume larger than the one you 
hold. Again it is quite needless for us to confine our 
minds and thoughts to those multitudes of minor, 
nevertheless silly and sensual assertions of the heath¬ 
enish mind and literature; but suffice it for us to men¬ 
tion in brief the religious sects, their code of doctrine, 
with a synopsis of their worship and disposition of 
their dead. 

You will remember that India has been under the 
despotic hand and rule of Hinduism and Mohamme¬ 
danism, but is now under British rule, which is light 
compared with darkness. Two-thirds of the people are 
Hindus, but their creed and dogma branches out until 
it embraces an endless variety of polytheistic and 
pantheistic superstitions, and whose monotonous 
mythologies are scarcely comprehended even by their 
higher classes. 

India is truly a ‘‘garden of godsas one has well 
said, “Here meet the great speculative faiths of man¬ 
kind. Monotheism, (the doctrine of one god) dual¬ 
ism (of two gods, one good and one evil,) Polytheism, 
(many gods), atheism (no god) and pantheism, (that 



138 


A JOURNEY 


everything is God,) and these ranging from purest 
Monotheism to the grossest Polytheism. Almost every 
religious belief and form of worship may be found 
embracing Fetishism (the worship of stone, tree or 
animal for temporary relief; Animism (a doctrine 
teaching the appearances of the physical economy are 
produced by the soul,) Brahmanism, (the worship of 
Brahma as the creator of the world), Hinduism (a 
development of Brahmanism, as they believe Brahma 
as their great, and one spiritual being, but having 
three personal manifestations, as Brahma the creator, 
Vishnu the preserver, and Shiva, the destroyer and 
reproducer.) Buddhism teaches that all life is suffer¬ 
ing, that suffering arises from indulging desires, and 
all hope for relief lies in extinction of existence. 
Jainism, teaches that inorganic matter has a soul, and 
that bodily penance is necessary to salvation. Parsee- 
ism, (fire-worship) Mohammedanism (belief in one 
God and Mohamet His prophet) and Christianity have 
all found a home in this fruitful soil.” This will serve 
to the reader a very comprehensive view of the doc¬ 
trines, beliefs and worship of the many millions in 
India. 

But the dominant religions of the non-Christian 
faiths are the remarkable triad known as Mohammed¬ 
anism, Buddhism and Hinduism, which embrace al¬ 
most every phase of speculative thought and demon¬ 
strate most every form of human belief. These are 
holding sway among India’s great throngs of hungry 
heathen worshippers, but must and will give way to 
the power and truth of our holy Christian religion, 
taught and loved by men and women ‘‘filled with faith 
and the Holy Ghost.” 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


139 


The Mohammedans in their usual long white and 
black robes, red turbans (caps) and sandals, their 
women with their veiled faces and in their red, black 
and white attire, praying three to five times each day 
with their faces toward Mecca, and with their plain 
but spacious mosques, and whose funeral procedures 
consist in decent burial, much and very loud and ex¬ 
tended mourning, compose about sixty-two million 
i of India’s population. 

I The Hindus, who are noted for their religious de- 
; votion and superstitous notions, believing in Brahma 
i in his three manifestations, and the doctrine of trans- 
! migration of souls, that is the soul passes into eight 
! million, four hundred thousand species of animals be¬ 
fore it reaches that heaven where the personal God 
dwells. So they offer sacrifices to Krishna to get rid 
of these perpetual transmigrations of soul that they 
may gain heaven without passing through this tremen¬ 
dous state of affairs. 

They usually live simple, plain and unpreten¬ 
tious lives, save in their religious proclivities, in which 
they are proud, arrogant, boastful and deeply en¬ 
trenched. 

They are poor and usually very illiterate, especial¬ 
ly the women, and the poorer classes, doubtless not 
one out of twenty can read—and this is a wide mar¬ 
gin too. Their clothing consists, among women, of a 
long piece of cloth about one yard wide folded 
around the person, the men generally wear very little 
clothing, simply a loose flowing robe of different 
colors, or a small garment around their loins, all of 
which each person almost invariably washes in the 
river; as he goes to bathe each morning he will wash 



140 


A JOURNEY 


the one that was worn, and will put one on similar to 
it, and let this one dry. But many times they put the 
same one on and it dries on their body. 

They have their days and weeks of festivities vary¬ 
ing in character and significance. The land is full of 
their temples, idols and altars. As the Scripture says, 
‘‘Under every green tree”—this is the Peepil and 
Banyan tree that they call their “sacred trees,”—you 
will see from a distance that these are “sacred trees” 
from the flag-pole and the red waving banner from its 
lofty end, that the people coming down the distant 
highway or in different portions of the town, may 
recognize that it is a “sacred place” by the waving 
flag. Under the tree, will be found an idol or idols and 
altars and invariably the silent worshipers. 

The Hindus don’t believe in burying their dead, 
hence they cremate the dead bodies. 

You will observe frequently upon the banks of the 
Ganges and Jumna rivers what is termed as “Burn¬ 
ing Ghosts” where their dead are brought, laid on a 
pile of wood, then with the ceremony of some officiat¬ 
ing priest the body is covered and set on fire; general¬ 
ly from two to four hours is required to reduce the 
body to ashes, these are, if possible, sprinkled on the 
bosom of their “sacred rivers.” I have witnessed a 
Hindu funeral, and the entire cremating process, saw 
the relatives of the dead act as if nothing had oc¬ 
curred, laugh, smoke and go on with their silly non¬ 
sense, burn their own relatives and cast the ashes in¬ 
to the river. After this each one must bathe and wash 
his garment, come out and go home quietly. This is 
a faint photograph of more than two hundred million 
in India alone. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


141 

Buddhism had its origin in about the sixth cen¬ 
tury, B. C., by one Gautama, afterwards called Bud¬ 
dha, the enlightened, the sum and substance of whose 
doctrine is the necessity of man to become enlightened 
by meditation so as to assure a relief from that cessa¬ 
tion of lives through which he must pass, and thus 
finally reach Nirvana, which puts an end to all re¬ 
birth. He taught universal benevolence and compas¬ 
sion, also emphasized the encouragement to education. 
The creed is pessimistic and atheistic, and has some 
excellent moral rules, not enough however to counter¬ 
act the degrading and silly ones encountered. 

This sect is not so numerous and i^oiirishing as in 
other ages. But there are many very fine and costly 
temples throughout the land, and the image of Bud¬ 
dha will be seen sitting in one of three attitudes; he 
sits cross-legged, either with his hands in contact in 
an attitude of profound meditation, or with one hand 
pointing to the earth, or with both hands raised in the 
preaching posture. 

They are strict in their adherence and devotion to 
their worship and various festivities. Their manner 
and custom of life in worship and disposition of their 
dead closely resemble the Hindus, but their number 
in India are comparatively small, being only nine mil¬ 
lion and a half, or not quite so much perhaps. 

The Jains who maintain that bodily penance is nec¬ 
essary to salvation, and who believe matter to possess 
a soul and that a man’s soul may pass into a stone. 
They are contemporary with Buddhism, their number 
reach only one million, three hundred and thirty-four 
thousand in this empire, where only they exist. 

Sikhs are a reformed sect of Hindus, originated 


142 


A JOURNEY 


near Lahore in 1460, their liberal views received in all 
ranks and castes without distinction. Their belief 
and philosophy are similar to that of the Hindus, and 
but very little difference in form of worship or doc¬ 
trine of creed, but they differ in respect in the caste- 
system ; this the Sikhs abolished. They number about 
two million, two hundred thousand. 

The Animist, which means non-Ayran, once the 
dominating people of central India, especially during 
the invasion of the English, and who proved to be 
courageous and valiant warriors and were really the 
principal ones causing the terrible massacre of 1857, 
but who have well-nigh lost all soldier qualities and 
have settled down to a quite agricultural life. They 
number more than eight million. 

India has a Jewish population of about eighteen 
thousand. 

We come now to the Parsees, that stirring, enter¬ 
prising and prosperous people who inhabit Bombay 
and Surat, with a population of nearly one hundred 
thousand. These are the only surviving original Per¬ 
sians who escaped the ffood-tide of Mohammedan in¬ 
vasion and religion, hence they fled from Persia and 
came to India. They are followers of Zoroaster, who, 
they believe brought fire from heaven, and is kept 
burning under their temples and in consecrated places. 

They are polite, industrious philanthropic, gentle, 
cultured and unassuming. Their business tact and per¬ 
sistence claim your attention. Their dress-custom 
is attractive, neat, costly and comfortable. 

Their custom of disposing of their dead resembles 
neither the burial or cremation as we have referred to, 
but their manner is to expose their dead to the sun 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


143 


and air, but it is more generally termed exposing to 
be devoured by vultures as is seen by “The tower of 
silence.” There are five of these towers, the only ones 
in India. The largest one is two hundred and seventy- 
six feet in circumference and is twenty-five feet high, 
and cost one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. At 
eight feet from the ground upon the encircling wall 
is an entrance which is reached by a flight of steps. 
Up and through this they carry the corpse. Inside the 
plan of the building resembles a circular gridiron, 
gradually depressed toward the center, in which is a 
well, five feet in diameter. Beside the wall that sur¬ 
rounds this well there are two other little low circular 
walls between the well and the outside wall. The 
spaces between these walls are grooves that radiate 
from the center like wagon-spokes. In these they lay 
the corpse, and the little walls that divide these com¬ 
partments serve as a foot-path for those who attend 
to the placing of the corpse within these little troughs. 
There are three kinds, one size for adults, second size 
for the middle, and thirdly, the smallest size for in¬ 
fants. The corpse is laid in their respective groove, 
(having but a thin cloth over it) by four carriers. In 
from two to four hours the birds and vultures that 
swarm on and around this hill devour all the flesh, and 
nothing but the skeletons remain. This is left to 
bleach in the sun and wind until it becomes perfectly 
dry. Then the carriers of the dead, with gloves and 
tongs remove the bones from the grooves and cast 
them into the well. Here they crumble into dust. 
Round the well are perforations, which allow the rain¬ 
water to escape into four deep drains at the bottom of 
the tower. The fluid then passes through charcoal 


144 A JOURNEY 

and becomes disinfected before it passes finally into 
the near-by sea. 

Their idea for thus disposing of their dead comes 
from their high regard for fire and water; this will 
not admit pollution by either custom of burial or 
cremation of their dead, hence their manner of ex¬ 
posing is clearly expressed. I feel rather repulsive to 
either cremation or exposure. 

Now that my reader may have another view of the 
deplorable situation and condition of heathendom in 
India, let me inform you that most every object of the 
celestial, physical and vegetable kingdoms are most 
devoutly and humbly worshiped by millions who are 
‘‘sitting in darkness and in the shadow of death.” 

The cow, elephant, monkey, trees, birds and flow¬ 
ers, mountains and rivers, places and people—all are 
lovingly adored. The rivers, Jumna and Ganges, are 
both held and worshipped as “sacred streams,” to 
which they make long pilgrimages and wash, bathe 
and worship in their currents or on their “sacred 
banks.” To this subject we shall refer more clearly 
and illustratively in another chapter. 

When you come to realize that there are more idols 
in India than worshippers, then you may conceive of 
the extent, in depth, power, effect and general signifi¬ 
cance of heathenish worship and paganistic religions 
upon the nation and their people, relative to their 
moral, social and religious life and character. 

Most everything and everybody is branded with 
some kind of religion, which is empty, vain, silly or 
sensual in its incipiency, and ultimates in sorrow, sad¬ 
ness, darkness, death and eternal woe. 

When we comprehend with proper understanding 



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145 


of heart and mind the loyalty and devotion that ever 
characterize the worship and worshipper in dark 
pagan lands, it casts a burning shame and a living re¬ 
buke upon the Christian world and especially upon the 
Church, for the stupidity, apathy, sluggishness, and 
criminal disobedience of her members and professed 
devotees. 

If the energy, time and means were given to the 
advancement of an institution of such power and pro¬ 
portions as is found within the mighty church of God 
on earth, such as is everywhere apparent among the 
heathens for the furtherance of their cause, regardless 
of its nature and character of work, how long would it 
be until the clouds and walls of superstition and 
heathenish worship would melt; yea, would flee, before 
the onsweeping and mighty flood-tides of gospel light, 
liberty and salvation? What will our answer be at the 
last day, for our neglect of duty, waste of time and op¬ 
portunity, our failure in receiving the fulness of God 
as provided in Christ’s atonement and our manifest 
careless and thoughtless condition of a lost world; and 
our very little endeavor toward evangelizing the mil¬ 
lions who are bound with chains of blindness, ignor¬ 
ance and sin? 

Here are some results of paganistic teachings and 
practice: 

The Zana-life, or of Indian-widowhood—girls 
who were left widows at ten years of age, but who 
never met their husbands. You understand the parents 
betroth the infant-girl to some boy or man who, if 
he dies in her infancy, she is denominated and treated 
(this means great mistreatment) as a widow the bal¬ 
ance of her days. Like those whose husbands they 


146 


A JOURNEY 


were living with, but on their death also are among 
the sorrowing widows, their heads are shaven, and 
faces are veiled and they are forced to spend their 
days in a secluded manner, known as the ^‘Zenana- 
life.” This means to live behind latticed walls and 
doors, with no permission to mix or mingle with the 
public or to be even looked upon or spoken to by any, 
save those whom she must serve. 

Then India’s caste-system is another barrier of 
gigantic proportions, and one among the greatest 
hindrances to Christian work and workers on this 
field. But the gospel is adequate to the task, and is 
oyer-throwing these barriers and impediments. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


147 


CHAPTER XIV. 

MISSIONARY—EVANGELISM. 

In this chapter it will be our pleasant and cheerful 
delight to confine ourselves to the subject and object 
that gave rise to the call, preparation, and character 
of this journey around the world—that of “World¬ 
wide Missions,” or missionary-Evangelism. 

As we journeyed through continental Europe and 
in Africa, beholding the condition of the land and peo¬ 
ple, some places appeared peaceful and prosperous, 
others dark and desolate; some places the Church and 
ministry manifested a good degree of spiritual power, 
and seemed active and aggressive for souls, and at 
other places they evidenced an alarming lack of life 
and consequently did but little more than merely exist. 
As we witnessed such scenes, our hearts and minds be¬ 
came greatly exercised in prayer and searching out 
our inmost being and crying unto Jesus for an en¬ 
trance of speech, an open door for labor, and withal 
a very gracious campaign of fruitful labors in India. 

Thus as we sailed over the Indian Ocean our 
souls were drawn out in much prayer for divine guid¬ 
ance and heaven’s approbation upon our stay and 
labors in this needy land. 

One of our party had secured the names and ad¬ 
dresses of several missionaries just prior to our sail¬ 
ing, but in the meantime these were all lost, which left 
us without the knowledge of scarcely any workers on 
the field. This proved a two-fold blessing—it drove us 


148 


A JOURNEY 


to our knees in earnest prayer, seeking for guidance to 
open doors, and the sweetness and inner consciousness 
of the abiding fulness of the blessed Holy Ghost, and 
of His assurance that our way would be clear, and 
filled with labors more abundant. We were in per¬ 
fect peace and perfect rest of soul. 

To give you an insight, will say that on our ar¬ 
rival in Bombay, we were welcomed with joy into The 
Seamans’ Rest Mission, conducted by Bro. Havens. 
Here we had some blessed services. We were treated 
very kindly and were refreshed in spirit. 

Purchasing some blankets, rugs and pillows which 
constitute our “Indian bed,” which is customary for 
all travellers to carry along with them as they travel 
over India, we started out in our “Itineracy through 
India” for the Master. 

We visit the Pentecostal Mission, at Vasin, about 
one hundred miles north of Bombay, conducted by 
Bro. Roy Codding, with Misses Florence Williams, 
Mattie Long, and Miss Leonard. Miss Long is sent 
out by the Scottsville (Tex.) camp-meeting Associa¬ 
tion. Miss Williams is out from Louisiana, Miss Leon¬ 
ard from Virginia and Bro. and Sister Codding from 
Tennessee under Bro. J. O. McClurkan, of Nashville, 
Tenn. We spend several days here with much profit, 
and witness great victory in seeing souls seek and 
obtain pardon and cleansing from all sin. The meet¬ 
ings with the native-workers in the villages were full 
of rich blessings from the Lord. 

On our departure from this station, a few days 
later, the superintendent wrote us a letter, telling us 
that one of his native-workers who had been blessedly 
sanctified during our stay there had dropped dead on 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


149 


the railroad platform. We praised the Lord that 
another trophy had safely landed. 

Mukti is the name of a station, postoffice and vil¬ 
lage, where the great work of Sister Pandita Ramabai 
is located. “Mukti” means “salvation,” hence properly 
used is Salvation Station, and this is the name, nature, 
quality and character of the work. It is marvellous in 
its founding, glorious in operations and beyond words 
to express, powerful in its present ability, and the fu¬ 
ture of such a work lies beyond our language or pen 
to describe, both for the spiritual impetus to the na¬ 
tive and English churches throughout India, and for 
the salvation and training of hundreds of native women 
who will go out from this purely Pentecostal Mission 
“filled with the Holy Ghost” “to preach the unsearch¬ 
able riches of Christ” through the length and breadth 
of India. 

There are about seventeen hundred girls and about 
two hundred boys in this great institution. It is 
operated entirely on faith lines and the Holy Ghost 
has full control. The annual expenses reach away in¬ 
to the thousands and all received and cancelled on 
pure faith. This money comes from Europe, America 
and Australia. It was here that the great revival 
broke out upon the workers of India in the great¬ 
est power and effect. They pray here by the hours in 
bands for India's millions, and for mighty manifesta¬ 
tions of Christ's redeeming grace upon India's Church 
and mission work. 

Here, we had gracious occasions and triumphs 
for our Lord and in the interest of the gracious work 
under this wise, sagacious, humble and Spirit-filled 
woman. She was a high-caste Hindu lady, but was 


A JOURNEY 


150 

saved and afterwards sanctified and called to found 
an institution for widow-girls to teach them Christ, 
and lead them into wisdom’s way, and afterwards 
train them as native missionaries. She is meeting with 
some criticism, of course, but is having the constant 
approbation of heaven upon all the spiritual, intellect¬ 
ual, moral and industrial features of this eastern enter¬ 
prise. 

We certainly had touches of Pentecost here. We 
were treated so kindly and welcomed with such Chris¬ 
tian-like manner. It was wonderful to see seventeen 
hundred girls and two hundred boys praying and 
others working with anxious penitents. The volume 
of these hundreds of voices sounded like “the rushing 
of many waters,” and peals of distant thunder. We 
hear it yet, and will never forget that scene and those 
sounds of supplicating voices. 

The beautiful daughter of Sister Ramabai was 
educated in New York state. She is a graceful char¬ 
acter, highly cultivated and “filled with the Spirit.” 
Her name is Mano Ramabai. The work will be carried 
on under wise counsel, as her aimable mother is do¬ 
ing now, should she be called away. 

There are what are called “Praying Bands,” who 
go out from this school, say fifteen fin a band, 
and there are forty-five bands. They visit the different 
missions and churches and actually pray down a re¬ 
vival, for that’s the way all effective and lasting re¬ 
vivals come, whether that be in India or America, in 
Europe or Africa. 

There are these bands in different numbers out in 
various places well-nigh all the time, and they are 
simply stirring things where they go. Who can meas- 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


151 

ure the power and extent of such a work upon the 
Church or nation. 

Volumes could be written upon the character of 
this great woman, upon this institution and upon its 
possibilities for God and His kingdom in India, Cey¬ 
lon and Burmah, but we must forbear. 

Rev. Albert Norton is in charge of an orphanage 
for boys at Dhone. He has more than two hundred 
boys in school, and we enjoyed our visit and labors 
there very much. It was so blessed to see the eager¬ 
ness with which these boys drank in the Word of the 
Lord. 

A number were saved and a few were cleansed 
from all sin. Among those who received full salvation 
was a very devout young lady missionary, who had 
just resigned as one of the teachers from the Ro¬ 
chester (N. Y.) high school, and come out here to 
do mission-work. Also two of dear Bro. Norton’s 
sons, who are well advanced and highly useful on this 
field, got hungry, felt their need and sought for the ex¬ 
perience of entire sanctification, and both received 
'‘the Pearl of great price,” and one who was suffering 
with that dreadful disease, consumption, on his re¬ 
ceiving “the Baptism with the Holy Ghost and fire” 
shouted out in joy, “He has cleansed my heart and 
healed my body,” and with a smiling face, putting his 
hand on his breast, said, “O! how good and easy I 
feel; I can breathe so easy and the pain is all gone. 
Hallelujah!” Our association here was precious and 
charming to our hearts. God bless and keep them at 
Dhone. 

At Poona, we visit the “Taylor High school for 
girls.” Sister Eddy, a noble and talented woman of 


152 


A JOURNEY 


excellent ability and a lover of Bible holiness, is the 
principal of this college. We enjoyed witnessing for 
Jesus here. 

Then we have charge of service in the large 
Y. M. C. A. building with a full house, resulting in a 
profitable time. 

Now in company with some other workers, one of 
whom is dear Sister Worthiem, well known to the 
Christian Witness readers, who did much work out in 
Colorado and on the Coast, we run down to Bombay 
and are engaged in a series of revival meetings in 
Grant Road M. E. Church, the largest auditorium of 
Bombay. We are entertained in the beautiful home 
of Brother and Sister Guest near Byculla Station. 
Service opened, and we had a very gracious waiting 
before the Lord. 

Rev. A. E. Ayres is the presiding elder of Bom¬ 
bay district. He is a fine, sweet-spirited and devoted 
man. He stood by us and did some valiant work. His 
work is large and keeps him going. As this Church 
had no pastor at the present, Bro. Ayers kindly invited 
us to accept the open door, but with a degree of reluc¬ 
tance we had to decline, for this is an opportunity to 
reach and help many hundreds. The meetings grew 
in power and fruitage; some were saved and others 
were sanctified. One man, a foreman in the railroad 
shops, who was seeking holiness, and seemed to be 
rather of the doubting nature, but was greatly con¬ 
cerned, went home one night but not with victory yet, 
so he prays until away into the night, and retires not 
satisfied. Next morning he arises very early and 
prays for the great grace and repairs to the bath¬ 
room praying all the time, and while he was in the 


The Taj Mahl at Agra 


I 

I 
















’ROUND THE WORLD. 


153 


bath-tub he said “yes” to God and the glory of God 
overwhelmed him, and he shouts out “O! He sanctifies 
me, I know it is done.” 

Our work among this people and in their church 
was so gracious to our hearts. We thank Sister 
Worthiem for her kindness in introducing us to this 
truth-loving Presiding Elder, who tendered us such a 
warm reception and who so freely associated himself 
^ with this meeting. 

We had one or two very fruitful and helpful ser¬ 
vices with the Christian Missionary Alliance. Young 
Miss Fuller professed the grace of holiness in our 
meetings while in Grant Road Church. She is one of 
the leaders of that branch of Alliance work in India. 
She possesses gifts and talents which render her 
useful in this worthy cause. At Sanjan, we visit Miss 
Lew Angel, who has charge of the Vanguard mission, 
comprising property valued at about nine thousand 
dollars, and about forty girls with their workers, and 
the Lord is giving them favor with men and rich 
blessings from heaven. This work is faithfully repre¬ 
sented by Rev. C. W. Sherman of “The Vanguard” 
of St. Louis. We had gracious “seasons from the 
presence of the Lord” while here and a number found 
victory, and Sister Angel informed us later that a 
great work of grace had come to many. 

These missions have conflicts and long sieges of 
terrible combats that people in the homeland know 
little about. It is not easy sailing or an avocation 
filled with flowers and sunshine, but amid tears, 
heart-aches, groanings, temptations, fiery trials, idol¬ 
atry, and “spiritual wickedness,” hot suns, drouths, 
famines, plagues, need of means, lack of association. 


154 


A JOURNEY 


and communication with the saints even from the 
home-land, and many other things that we might 
mention, but must desist. 

Now Gong is where the Friends Mission is located. 
We travelled most one night in an Indian-wagon to 
reach this place. But our warm welcome, Christian 
association and times of salvation repaid for any and 
all hardships we encountered on our coming or de¬ 
parture. This work is maintained by the direct opera¬ 
tions of The Ohio Society of Friends. Miss Fistler 
is the leader on the field, assisted by an able corps 
of workers, both American and native. 

We witness the power of God here upon the meet¬ 
ings. Christmas day was spent here, and we all ate 
dinner in the native style—sat down on our ankles on 
the floor, and had “Curry and Rice,” the native dish, 
and our fingers were employed in lifting our food 
from the plate to the mouth, as was the ancient and 
is the modern custom among the natives. It was a 
little new and rather embarrassing at first, but we 
soon found out it was good to learn to “Be content 
with such things as ye have” and “Having food let us 
be content.” Our labors and visit among these noble- 
hearted and faithful workers, were enjoyable and of 
great enlargement to our vision and knowledge of the 
work on the field. 

Our next field of work, which had been announced 
for some weeks was away up in northern India with 
“The Evangelistic and Industrial Mission” at Pilibhit 
with Rev. J. C. Lawson as superintendent. A holiday 
holiness convention had been announced which char¬ 
acterized our study and labors while in this young 
but growing work. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


155 


We arrived early one morning, were received with 
great joy and delight by Bro. and Sister Lawson, who 
are well known to the great Witness family. 

A government opium house, that stood nearby, was 
secured to hold the first mid-winter holiness conven¬ 
tion in for Northern India, under the auspices of The 
Evangelistic and Industrial Mission 6f Pilibhit. 

Much prayer had been offered for this coming 
event. Conviction was on many of their boys, and 
the convention opened with fervor and a good degree 
of spiritual power. Sins were confessed, wrongs made 
right, restitution made, pardon received and full salva¬ 
tion sought and obtained; a goodly number of the 
boys and some of the native helpers, received great 
joy in the Lord. 

This is a noble and needy work, one that is starting 
off well, and is destined under God, and properly con¬ 
ducted, as under the present administration, to wield 
great good to the cause, reach thousands of souls 
and help to hasten the evangelization of India. 

The spiritual, literal and industrial are all carried 
on here with the greatest care, power and manifest 
success, notwithstanding the severe criticism, cool¬ 
ness and unkindly misrepresentations that these work¬ 
ers and this sort of work are receiving at the hands 
of some who shouldn’t be employed in such an un¬ 
charitable, unpleasant and unbecoming manner and 
spirit of life. 

Bro. Lawson is certainly qualified for such a work 
as he has been on the field in Christian work for about 
tw^enty-five years and possesses a large experience 
and conception of the need and character of both 
work and workers. India is hearing from the spiritual 


A JOURNEY 


156 

tide and the industrial features of this work. A num¬ 
ber of new workers from the home-land have joined 
them, and others are preparing to enlist. 

We attend the North India Conference. We were 
welcomed and given a warm place among our breth¬ 
ren, and were invited to speak and sing. The Lord 
gave us an entrance. Bishop F. W. Warne, a Junior 
Bishop, presided with manifest ability and satisfaction. 

We met some grand old heroes of the cross in 
this session, who have labored, suffered and re¬ 
joiced on these fields for thirty, forty and fifty years. 
How we reverence these blessed warriors of this sacred 
cause. 

We were urged to attend the session of the North¬ 
west India Conference that was soon to convene in 
Allahabad. We accepted it with joy and apprecia¬ 
tion. We were engaged to conduct a series of meet¬ 
ings in the M. E. Church at Agra, for the English- 
speaking natives with Rev. F. B. Fisher as pastor. 
Bro. Fisher is an old student of Asbury; and you 
know the quality and character of the preachers who 
go out from that great institution—worthy, noble and 
efficient. 

We had a blessed occasion of salvation here, a 
number were either saved or sanctified in “the precious 
blood.” 

At Agra, is where that great “Taj” is located. It 
is doubtless the finest building of its size and quality 
on earth. I must make a slight reference to this 
world-renowned building. You first enter a large open 
court, and then pass into another beautifully decorated 
entrance and look down the avenues of trees, flowers, 
and lovely walks which are all laid off in squares and 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


157 


pavements that are very beautiful. At the end of this 
avenue you ascend a few steps, and a little farther on 
you mount another terrace by a few stone steps. This 
terrace is one hundred yards square, and is paved with 
white marble, polished until it glares beneath the hot 
sun. 

From the center of this elevated pavement rises the 
wonderful building. The main building has eight sides 
—four long, and four short sides. These are broken 
by entrances and recesses. In the center rises a dome 
which is two hundred feet from the pavement to the 
top, one of the most graceful patterns I ever saw, 
each of the smaller sides are surmounted by smaller 
domes. But under the great central dome there is 
the unobstructed elevation, and this apartment is a 
perfect circle. At each corner, outside, of this, there 
are smaller rooms. Now you are to remember that 
inside and outside of this great structure one hundred 
and eighty-six feet in diameter and two hundred and 
forty-three feet high is of the finest and whitest mar¬ 
ble polished to the utmost. Upon the inner walls are 
carved most elegantly, flowers and foliage in relief. 
Still higher upon the inner walls are covered partly 
by flowers inlaid with precious stones of divers colors, 
on the outer walls, are beautiful inlaid work. The 
marble, screen-work that surrounds the ornamental 
tomb, on the paved ifloor, is rich and rare, in the 
workmanship and beauty. Tlie real Sarcophagus is 
in the basement in the entrance of the building. This 
is overlaid and inlaid with precious stones. The 
Emperor lies by the side of his wife for whom he built 
this magnificent tomb. The echo in the great dome 
has been pronounced by men famous for extensive 


158 A JOURNEY 

travels, as having nothing to compare with it in the 
world. 

We stood in the center on the lovely paved floor 
of this gigantic dome and ran over the major notes 
of the scale, or in unison; first sharp short sounds 
rebound from many points at once, and touch and 
roll away again, then turn bounding, and break into 
fragments as they surge around, vibrating and rever¬ 
berating as if they were answering their own echoes; 
finally as if intoxicated with the beauty of the scene, 
they flee away in soft and dying tones around the 
lofty summit wall. You are left well nigh breathless; 
the eyes quickly fill, the voice chokes and the soul 
can hardly stay in its mortal tenement. The man who 
drew the plans and erected this building just after its 
completion Avas ordered to have his eyes put out, 
hence it has no duplication on earth. The time and 
number of men engaged to construct this was twenty 
years and twenty thousand hands. 

A moonlight night at “The Taj” is simply a trans¬ 
porting scene. We have a blessed service in the large 
M. E. Church at Cawnpore. In company with the 
Presiding Elder of this district Rev. Robertson, we 
start for conference above referred to. We are 
cordially and warmly welcomed by Bishop Warne, the 
presiding officer and the many delegates. We are in¬ 
vited to have charge of the Pentecostal services of this 
session. The opportunity was large and auspicious for 
our privilege to preach, sing, and testify about the doc¬ 
trine and experience of scriptural holiness. This we 
did to the best of our ability. The Lord confirmed His 
Word with convictional fruits that will remain all the 
time. I was urged by the Bishop and others to “de- 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


159 


dare the whole counsel of God” and “preach the truth 
as it is in Jesus,” and great grace was upon us. Scores 
were the seekers after holiness and some found glori¬ 
ous deliverance. 

We had the hearty co-operation of Bishop Warne, 
many of the preachers and presiding elders in our 
labors during this conference session. 

Truly we enjoyed our labors and fellowship among 
this body of worthy workers, and were treated with 
such tender care and were refreshed in Spirit not a few 
times. 

We preached once or twice each day for a number 
of days, first to the English-speaking and then to the 
native brethren through an interpreter, with Rev. 
Buck, presiding elder, acting as my translator. These 
meetings were full of power and fruit. 

We hasten away to the “Sacred Ganges and Jum- 
ma” which meet at a given point, where there is a large 
fort erected on the point between, with a wall running 
along parallel with the Ganges for some distance back 
from the water, giving a space of land about thirty 
yards wide, that the people may pass along between 
the fort and river down to the junction of the two 
rivers, a place held doubly sacred by all Hindoos, and 
where they struggle to reach, that they may bathe and 
worship, in the currents of those “holy rivers.” 

It was on the 24th of January, the greatest day 
among the Hindoo worshipers, and which greatest of 
days comes once in thirty-six years, they are to meet 
on the banks of these given streams. There were na¬ 
tives from Burmah, Ceylon and from different sections 
all over India. Some walked, others rode on horse, 
donkey, elephant and camel, while the majority came 


i6o 


A JOURNEY 


by rail. There were two miles square of camps and 
herds of living souls, who came here to bathe and wor¬ 
ship in and around these two rivers—to seek freedom 
from their burden of sin. 

In company with most all the conference delega¬ 
tion, we stood upon the high walls of that great fort, 
and beheld a scene that will never be erased from our 
minds and memories. 

It was solid acres of human beings of all classes, 
ages and conditions, rushing up and down the banks 
of these rivers, crying, shouting, praying, muttering 
and running, and pulling their way through those vast 
throngs of hungry multitudes, to get to the water, to 
bathe, thinking this would relieve them of that burden 
and guilt of soul. 

The railroad authorities gave out to the public that 
more than two and one-half million souls, were in 
actual attendance on the grounds on January 24th. 
We can’t tell you of the dark, dreadful and deathly 
scenes that were enacted on that day. The scene at 
times looked as if heathenism and its powerless idolatry 
was on the increase; and all hopes for India, had taken 
wings. But with Bishop Warne by our side we turned 
our eyes toward the crowd of redeemed native preach¬ 
ers and workers who were nearby, and then remember¬ 
ed the thousands back in their work. We got another 
view of the situation. But right in the midst of this 
heart-rending scene the gospel was preached and scat¬ 
tered and many inquirers received. You understand 
the very foundation of this dark colossal system is 
crumbling and is giving away—all before the blood- 
tide of Salvation, light, liberty and transparent glory. 

We are now with our dear Brother A. Lee Grey, 



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GROUND THE WORLD. 


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and his corps of active and Spirit-filled workers. This 
dear man and his noble work are well-known through 
the Revivalist family. He hasn’t been on the field 
but a few years, consequently hasn't the work located 
and established permanently yet, but is doing a grac¬ 
ious work in evangelizing and scattering healthy liter¬ 
ature among the neglected masses. This mission is 
presently located at Arrah, in Shahabad district. Our 
stay with this royal company was delightful and edi¬ 
fying to our souls. The Lord gave us some rich sea¬ 
sons with these workers and their company of natives, 
most especially so during our itineracy out in the na¬ 
tive villages, where there had never been a gospel 
minister or a Christian missionary before. O, the joy of 
preaching the message of salvation unto a people who 
had never heard of Jesus and His love! It pays to fol¬ 
low close to Jesus all the way. 


A JOURNEY 


162 


CHAPTER XV. 

MOUNTAIN-GLORY. 

I' 

The intensity of the heat of the sun upon the great 
plains of India, and as for that, the extreme heat all 
over central and southern India, well-nigh forces our 
missionaries and workers to flee to the mountains, 
usually from June until September, to escape the 
scorching rays and rolling waves of India’s heat, 
which becomes so intense until in many sections the 
workers (especially our American and English) are 
compelled to keep water thrown upon the roof of 
the Bungalow, (mission house) and this water runs 
down in front of the door amid a matting-hanging; this 
cools the air as it passes into the door, so the inmates 
can live during the hot months without going to the 
mountains. 

But it is strikingly strange, but true, how the natives 
can go with but little on their bodies, and many of 
them bare-footed, bare-headed and bare-backed in this 
scorching sun. In company with Dr. Godbey, I start 
out to see the glory of ‘‘the everlasting hills,” away up 
in northern India, among the Himalayan kings of the 
Earth. 

With our Indian bedding, consisting of rugs, blan¬ 
kets, and pillow, we secure a third class compartment 
on the train, as you will remember in India, as well in 
most all the east, there are three and four different 
classes in the coach-department. The first class is 
similar to ours in America in comfort, at least, and 




’ROUND THE WORLD. 


163 

especially in price; then the second class, not so good, 
and not so high in price; the third class consists of 
smooth benches, with two small windows at either 
side of the two doors, one to be opened at each end of 
the compartment, and then just above the two seats, 
on either side of this compartment, will be found a 
seat that can be lowered to a level and suspended by 
chains, from the top of the car; this can be employed 
as “a sleeping berth,” where you can spread your bed¬ 
ding, and spend the night in sleeping or rolling and 
bumping, and it is all ‘‘gratis.” We mean that the 
“Pullman sleeper” will be free. 

We go sweeping over the great plains, which now 
appear very dry and barren. For miles and miles you 
look across great stretches, seeing only a “sacred tree,” 
with its lofty green foliage, lifting high up to break 
the monotony of the level lands. And again a little 
dirty village, consisting of mud huts, joined close by 
each other, with a temple spire or a flag-pole from the 
I top of some tree that denotes its sacredness; this will 
I relieve the wearied eye as you roll over these burning 
( plains. 

I Irrigation transforms the dry plains into veritable 

( gardens and rich productive fields. It will be ob¬ 
served here, as was in the Nile valley, the various 
modes used in lifting the water from these canals up 
into the little ditches, which separate and spread out 
to all parts of the field, beginning at the place of lift¬ 
ing. 

The wheel is used,* as was described in Egypt. It 
is drawn by the buffalo, then another means, is a 
leather bucket,, which is drawn up from the water 
with a rope that runs over a large roller situated near 




164 


A JOURNEY 


the top edge of the well or hole, and this is drawn 
usually by bullocks, and when the large leather bucket 
comes up to the top of this roller, it turns over and 
empties out into a trough that leads off into the ditch¬ 
es. Another way is, the old-fashion lever and bucket. 
The lever has a weight on one end, with a bucket to 
the other, and it swings on an upright piece in the cen¬ 
ter, and a boy or girl stands and pulls down the lever, 
the bucket fills and the weight raises the water and 
it is emptied into troughs. You see them by the hun¬ 
dreds up and down these valleys where the irrigating 
works are employed. 

There are several places in northern India famous 
as summer resorts and places of rest and seclusion to 
the tired and worn worker. But where we are going, 
doubtless, is the most famous resort in all mountain ^ 
location. It is*“the city among the clouds’'—Darjeel- ■ 
ing. We leave the plains and begin our ascent of the \ 
foothills. Our train consists of little carriages accom-^ 
modating from four to eight persons. It is the narrow 
gauge system—two feet track. The speed, either upj 
or down exceeds not more than seven miles per hour,! 
and usually ascends more than one thousand feet perl 
hour. I 

Travelers are notified to take extra clothing along J 
as they ascend the slopes of the Himalayan monstersJ 

The turns are very sharp and at each a fresh land-^ 
scape of surpassing beauty is unfurled to your delight¬ 
ed vision. The sides of the mountain at this altitude 
are clothed with lofty trees and masses of jungle, with 
graceful tree ferns in the ravines higher up. : 

The cars pass around a spur which projects from 
the mountain, and the line runs on the edge of this 



’ROUND THE WORLD. 


165 

frightful precipice which is one thousand feet to its 
dismal bottom. Still higher up, we enjoy once in life, 
a perfect loop in our track. It is an extraordinary 
piece of engineering. 

Away up on these lofty slopes are great tea- 
gardens with residences hugging close to these moun¬ 
tain sides, as if they knew that should they give away 
their ruin was inevitable. There are more than twelve 
million pounds of tea gathered and sold which is raised 
in and around Darjeeling annually. 

We are now entering a double loop, perhaps the on¬ 
ly one known. There are two perfect circles close by 
each other. This is interesting and refreshing. The 
zig-zag system is absolutely necessary to ascend 
many of the steep slopes. 

In fifty miles the entire ascent is more than eight 
thousand feet and the larger per cent, of this is in 
thirty-five miles. We are eight hours in making the 
run. 

We reach the city whose lofty location makes it 
famous for its surpassing scenery, pure atmosphere, 
mountain water and healthy habitation. We are now 
up in the very heavens—so cool, clear, fresh, delight¬ 
ful and refreshing to our lungs. Our eyes and our 
hearts catch a sweet strain and begin to praise the 
Lord. Our large hotel, with a large crowd calling 
for large prices, and giving but little in return, stands 
in a commanding position and in view of some scenery, 
simply charming for glory and beauty. 

We arise before day, mount our Tibetan ponies, 
with a guide and a pony boy. We hurry away and 
still higher up “Tiger’s Mountain,” our ride and ascent 
in all making six miles one way. We must reach the 


A JOURNEY 


166 

top of this mountain before sun-rise, and the idea is, 
to get one of the most charming and unsur¬ 
passing scenes that can be had on earth, to view the 
rising sun from Tiger’s Mountain. This will permit 
you to gaze upon the grandest and highest mountains 
in all the world. We spur our faithful pony. The air 
is fresh and cold; frost covers everything and we are 
quite cold, yet we are wrapped well. At last the sum¬ 
mit has been reached, just two or three minutes before 
the king of day rises from his eastern throne and be¬ 
gins his ascent of the blue horizon. On this moun¬ 
tain top are a number of men and women from many 
parts of the world./^ We have a large fire booming and 
we get good and warm so we can better appreciate 
the possibilities and honors of this hour—that of see¬ 
ing the globe of transparent gold, rise and then turn 
into a disc of shining silver, and see him arise in 
gorgeous splendor to send his penetrating rays across 
these towering peaks and dangerous chasms, to the 
dark distant domains of cragged rocks, narrow gorges, 
and startling canyons, then sweep on and on illumi¬ 
nating deep valleys, dark pit-falls and distant wood¬ 
lands. 

His brilliant and dazzling face shines on and kisses 
the massive mountain-peaks into charming beauty. 
The snow-crowned summits appear in dazzling glory 
in the far away distance. The atmosphere is so clear 
and the horizon so blue, that it is easy to behold the 
highest of earth’s altitudes from our lofty perch. Mt. 
Everest, the highest mountain in the world,—29,002 
feet high—stands like some gigantic column of pure 
white marble with a large base, gradually sloping to 
an apex of snow-white beauty, and is one hundred 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


167 


and twenty feet away, but appears to be within one- 
third of that distance. The second highest is Kinch- 
injanga Mountain twenty-eight thousand one hundred 
and fifty-six feet high, and is forty miles away. 
Many others not so high are in view. The views of 
unrivalled mountain scenery is unspeakably grand, 
and particularly that of Kinchinjanga, which impress 
the mind and heart more and more, every time they 
are seen. Too often, unfortunately, clouds veil the 
highest peaks for days, so that the eye can’t feast upon 
the magnificient beauty as it rolls out in panoramic 
glory when you stand upon these lofty thrones and 
gaze far away upon these walls of white and trans¬ 
parent beauty. When the clouds roll away and dis¬ 
play the bare granite summits, one looks over the lofty 
hills, and across a vast chasm to the line of perpetual 
snow, about seventeen thousand feet high, on the side 
of the stupendous Kinchinjanga. Above that rises 
a glittering white wall, and then it seems as if the sky 
were rent and the view is closed by enormous masses 
of bare rock. O, the indescribable and unutterable 
glory displayed as the brilliant rays of the rising sun, 
sweep across from peak to peak, from slope to sum¬ 
mit, and these snow-white walls towering in the hea¬ 
vens reflecting in the morning splendor/ What a vis¬ 
ion we got of our mighty God and of our glorious 
Christ, as we stood upon this majestic mountain, and 
looked far away and still farther to the highest peaks 
which stand about twenty-nine thousand and two feet 
high, and many others, we thought, “Who hath meas¬ 
ured the waters in the hollow of His hand, and meted 
out heaven with the span, and comprehended the dust 
of the earth in a measure, and weighed the mountains 


i68 


A JOURNEY 


in scales and the hills in a balance?” The answer 
comes back, “He it is that looketh on the earth and it 
trembled; He toticheth the hills and they smoke.” “He 
that buildeth his stories in the heaven, and hath found¬ 
ed his troops in the earth; he that calleth for the 
waters of the sea, and poureth them upon the face of 
the earth! The Lordjs His name.” 

O, the beauty of this mountain scenery! 

Away up on this dizzy summit we institute a 
prayer and praise service for the special benefit of our 
own souls; and when it was over, we felt like singing: 
“I am dwelling on the mountain where the golden 
sunlight gleams. 

O’er a land whose wondrous beauty, far exceeds my 
fondest dreams.” 

This was literally true, and,the inner condition was 
well described by the verse just quoted. 

With reluctance did we turn our faces from this 
charming scenery; but in a little while,we would have 
been forced to turn away; for the clouds of mist were 
fast rising from the low-lands, and casting their thick 
mantels over the beautiful glaciers; in other words 
were closing this all out from our enraptured vision. 
How true and how often do these clouds of mist rise 
from our faithlessness our view is darkened, and 
the inspiration of life and labors are lost. But a close 
walk with Jesus will ever enable us, “to read our 
title clear;” and some of these glad days “when the 
day breaks and the shadows flee away,” then we shall 
“see the King in His beauty and behold the land that 
is very far off” “And so shall we ever be with the 
Lord.” Amen ! Amen !! 


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An Elephant Stacking Timber, Burmah. 





’ROUND THE WORLD. 


169 


CHAPTER XVI. 

RANGOON, BURMAH. 

We are unable to describe and refer to all the 
blessed occasions of which we were permitted to par¬ 
take and enjoy, as we labored with the various mis¬ 
sionaries and mission-stations, as well as with our 
church and our conferences, while we travelled up and 
down the great Empire of India. 

We had a short visit and stay with Brother and Sister 
Scott, leaders in the Peniel Mission, which is located 
at Kharangoan. They have a lively mission here. The 
Lord gave us a veritable Pentecost while here. It 
was marvellous in our eyes and encouraging to us 
to press forward on our divinely-called and heaven- 
blest mission. 

Benares is denominated as “The Holy City of the 
Hindoos.” There must be more than one thousand 
temples. According to the census the city has a popu¬ 
lation of over two hundred thousand, and the annual 
visits of pilgrim worshipers are above one million. 

We are now enroute to Calcutta, passing through 
fertile valleys and rich plains whose tropical fruits 
and enormous produce crowd the markets. Calcutta 
has about one million population, and is the capital 
of British India. Truly this is a “cosmopolitan city” 
being composed of world-citizens, citizens from 
among all tongues and tribes. This is a great city, 
with fine educational enterprises, religious institutions 
and industrial operations, which are not a few. 


170 


A JOURNEY 


The stately buildings, crowded thoroughfares, 
beautiful gardens and thronging river-scenes, form 
some thought of the general activity and character of 
this city. 

The Zoological garden here is not to be surpassed 
for beauty in arrangement, varity of its possessions, 
and quality of the contents. Our last night in India 
was eventful and one which will abound with fruit 
until the great day of accounts. 

We were in company with a number of our mis¬ 
sionary friends, who had gathered to give their 
blessing as we sailed away for fields. It was with 
Rev. D. H. Lee, Presiding Elder of Calcutta, in '‘The 
Lee Memorial School,” where our farewell service for 
India was held. 

My readers will remember, that this great school 
was built in sacred memory of Brother and Sister 
Lee’s six sweet children that were translated from 
earth to heaven, during that terrible disaster of 
Darjeeling landslide: when so many were buried 
alive. 

This is a great school where salvation and Chris¬ 
tian training are the paramount and dominating 
topics. 

We were received, as Brother and Sister Lee know 
how, and delight to tender the Lord’s own. The ser¬ 
vice was one of power, interest and fruit. A number 
came forward and some prayed through to victory. 
This was but the beginning of glorious things. Bro. 
Lee wrote us twice afterwards, that about one hundred 
had gotten brightly saved or beautifully sanctified 
since our leaving. 

With our friends on the wharf waving their little 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


171 

white flags as we stood upon the deck of our ship 
sailing away we prayed for them and left with great 
joy filling our hearts. 

\\ e are now sailing down the Hooghly River upon 
whose banks stands the great city of Calcutta about 
ninety miles up from the sea. 

Bishop Robinson, of our church, is on board and 
we enjoy his instructive conversation and Christian 
association. He is enroute to have charge of the con¬ 
ference of lower Burmah to convene in Rangoon. 

It is warm on the Bay of Bengal. 

Rangoon is located on the Rangoon river, and is 
the capital of the province. The population of this 
city is about two hundred and forty thousand, and is 
a flourishing commercial scene. 

It is very warm here now, and this is February. 
The climate of Burmah for some distance from the 
coast, consists of wet seasons from May to November, 
and the remainder of the year is dry and extremely 
warm. The harbor of this city is excellent and very 
interesting as it is ever filled with all kinds of merchant 
fleets and commercial barges which are loaded with 
rice, timber, cutch, hides, petroleum and precious 
stones; also piece-goods, silks, cotton, wool, liquors, 
tobacco and opium (all generally run together) are 
imported to the city and scattered over the country. 

The Burmesi are a stronger and better looking peo¬ 
ple in general than the different tribes found in south- 
central Asia. They resemble the Chinese, but are with¬ 
out that sleepy and indolent look and slanting eye of 
the Chinese. They have a large square face, broad 
forehead, and built heavy and strong. 

We had often read in geography of the wonderful 


172 


A JOURNEY 


ability and utility of the elephant. On our arrival in 
Rangoon we were anxious to find the great mills where 
the elephants are employed in handling the timbers, 
and doing work that men are accustomed to do around 
these great mills. We found the mill situated on the 
bank of the great Rangoon river, where the large 
timbers are floated down in rafts and then caught and 
swung in along-side the mill. The mill and a large 
portion of the yards are covered with iron-roofing to 
protect the workmen from the power of that hot sun. 
The huge elephant has his long tusks. With a man 
on the ground to arrange a chain at the end of a tim¬ 
ber, then a man upon the back, acting as his guide, 
the elephant steps up, takes his snout, and wraps 
the loose end of that rope or chain that is fastened to 
that piece of timber, around his tusk and then once 
around his huge snout, and proceeds to drag his load 
to the respective place. If it is a piece of prepared 
lumber he takes it to the stack of lumber and rests 
one end near by, then loosens his chain from his grip, 
then he steps back to the other end of the timber and 
places one fore-foot at the end, and then he steps 
forward with some speed, he pushes that timber quite 
a distance with only one attempt, and if the piece of 
timber were smaller he would use his snout in carry¬ 
ing and stacking; and this without any difficulty. 

The manner of controlling or guiding them is both 
interesting and amusing. The driver sits just upon his 
shoulders where the Burmese cooley can sit, and, with 
his bare feet rubbing on the neck, guide that monster, 
of beasts. Just a simple touch of the heel or either 
side of his neck is sufficient to inform him what direc¬ 
tion to go and what speed you wish him to make. We 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


1/3 


enjoyed very much our elephant rides while in India, 
and while there we had splendid occasion to learn just 
how the driver managed this animal with such pro¬ 
priety, ability and satisfaction. I would keep my eye 
upon the operations and motions of the driver’s feet; 
there the problem was clearly solved—his heels were 
rubbing the elephants neck without scarcely any inter¬ 
mission, (for the elephant was lazy) until his neck 
had w^orn slick from constant contact of that heel. 

You will see the largest sound bell that is in the 
world, here in Rangoon. The largest bell on earth 
is the one of Moscow, but that one is broken; the 
great bell that is sound and so powerful is here in one 
of the largest pagodas. It weighs eighty-five thousand 
pounds and six men can easily stand inside this bell; 
it is elegantly decorated, with beautiful carvings and 
paintings. The Pagoda is a Buddhist temple, and is 
built in the form of a huge bell—a large circled base, 
which gradually slopes to a very sharp point. The 
largest one has a circumference of thirteen hundred 
and fifty-five feet, and rises to a height of three hun¬ 
dred and seventy, and was constructed at a cost of 
two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. There are mul¬ 
titudes of small bells all over and through these tem¬ 
ples. You are charmed at the variety and quality of 
their sweet chimes. 

The dress and manner of life differ from that of 
India’s tribes. You are attracted by the many bright 
and changing colors of their apparel. 

W’e witnessed our first heathen marriage cere¬ 
mony here in one of their temples. The bridegroom, 
with his party standing on one side of an altar, the 
bride and hers at the other side, while the priest per- 


1/4 


A JOURNEY 


formed some ceremony; then the bridegroom ^teps out 
and kneels toward the bride and steps back, then 
she does likewise. Then each meet in the center of the 
square side by side. He is dressed with costly suits, 
and appears composed and serious, while she is dressed 
in shining silks, decked with glittering jewelry, and 
with her face painted snow-white. The priest goes 
through another short ceremony. Meanwhile fire 
crackers are popping, bells are ringing and the people 
are shouting aloud, until the party marches out of the 
temple. 

Now one or two thoughts from this incident: Why 
don’t the women of America do things right; and com¬ 
plete the work, if they aim to fashion after the heathen, 
(and this they are doing,) when they use paints, 
gaudiness of personal adornment, and many times lack 
in the suit. 

Again there is an apparent absence of sanctity, 
sacredness in the divinely-ordered institution of mat¬ 
rimony observed among the present generation of our 
people—yea, less than is even recognized among 
Buddha-worshipers of far away Burmah. For an ex¬ 
pression of the fearfulness, but accurateness of the 
above statement, please consult the record of United 
States during the last thirty-five years; nearly eight 
hundred thousand divorce cases granted by our 
laws and courts. Do you get the point? now listen— 
just across our northern boundary is Canada; in the 
same length of time not quite one hundred cases were 
granted. Now study the situation, and wonder 
where we will land at the present state of things in 
special regard to the utter laxity in present-day mar¬ 
riage. Christless homes, where all marriage vows and 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


175 


obligations are trodden under foot; then the flood-tide 
of divorces, granted from causes other than the one 
that our Master referred to in His Sermon on the 
Mount. 

Burmah is a province lying to the east of the Bay 
of Bengal. It is bounded on the north and northeast 
by China, on the northwest by Bengal and Assain, and 
on the east by Siam. The total area is about two hun¬ 
dred and thirty-six thousand, seven hundred and thir¬ 
ty-eight square miles; and has a population reaching 
nearly twelve million souls. 

The country is drained by two large rivers and in¬ 
tersected by many smaller streams. 

There is a beautiful mountain range stretching 
across this little nation and most valuable mineral and 
ores are to be found along this chain. 

The forest of Burmah abounds in fine trees, and 
the most important are the rubber and another tree 
which is famous for its value. 

Rice is the principal crop, and is said to be the best 
that is raised anywhere, and brings a better price in 
the world’s market than does other high-grade rice. 

The earliest European connection with this shut-in 
empire was as far back as I5i9» when a treaty was 
formed between the Portuguese and the King of 
Pegie. Then factories were established in different 
sections of the country to work up the wonderful pro¬ 
ducts of this newly-found land. 

But in the seventeenth century all European mer¬ 
chants were expelled from the country, owing to a dis¬ 
pute which arose between the Burmese and the Dutch 
inhabitants. The Dutch never returned, but you are 
certain that the English fellows knew a good thing. 


176 


A JOURNEY 


and they worked their way back. In 1698 the English 
merchants were invited to re-establish their factories 
and inhabit the land; this they fell onto like black¬ 
birds would a grain field, and because of many upris¬ 
ings and constant trouble, in 1824, England declared 
war, and in 1825, it was captured and ceded to British 
rule. 

The religion of the Burmese is Buddhism; about 
thirty-eight per cent, of its population are worshipers 
of Buddha. 

We were greatly refreshed in spirit by coming in 
contact with the Baptist mission work, which is grow¬ 
ing with exceeding rapidity and power in spreading 
the gospel of salvation, and to herald the message of 
“Jesus and His love” to all Burmah. It was in 1812, 
if our memory serves us rightly, when Adrian Judson, 
that illustrious missionary giant, came to this, then a 
wild, and almost an unapproachable field, where the 
needs were imperative and the claims binding, to 
launch the great missionary enterprise, among a people 
of great ignorance, poverty and deep-seated idolatry. 
This man grew into the very fibre and life of their 
needs, sorrows and distresses, and shared with the na¬ 
tives in their sufferings, also partook of their joys and 
blessings; until, he manifested through his character 
and conduct “The power of an endless life,” and im¬ 
mortalized himself within the history, hearts and mem¬ 
ories of this people. Now a great Christian work is in 
progress here—a result of one man saying “Here am 
I, send me.” 

Doubtless this mission has the largest printing 
establishment of any on the field. The gospel is print¬ 
ed and scattered in five different languages by this 



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’ROUND THE WORLD. 


177 


work, with a great quantity of good literature going 
out. 

We are informed that our Church (M. E.) is mak¬ 
ing splendid progress in this open and needy field. 

As Rangoon is off of the highway of the ocean- 
travel, hence sailing on the coasters and smaller ships 
that do a most limited and local work. Because of this 
very few tourists or travelers ever touch Burmah. 



178 


A JOURNEY 


CHAPTER XVII. 

SINGAPORE—SHANGHAI. 

The gong sounds and we lift anchor and our pon¬ 
derous engines start our gigantic propellers, which 
move our monster of the sea. We are steaming out 
of this beautiful port, with our faces toward the torrid 
zone. 

The Rangoon River is wide, deep and muddy. On 
either side the rice fields abound, with their beautiful 
native growth. For a long distance out to sea, the 
murky influence of that river is observed. O, the 
powerful character, nature and effect of personal in¬ 
fluence; whether it be good or evil, upon a nation, a 
Church, a community and the individual! Who has 
forgotten the example of Judas, relative to the Church 
and kingdom of Christ, or Annanias and his wife upon 
the Pentecostal movement, or of one Benedict Arnold 
upon his nation, or of Brutus among the royal blood, 
and it is the result of a muddy stream upon the sea of 
time. 

Our direction is due south. Just below and off the 
coast of Burmah lies “The Straits Settlement.” These, 
too, are a British colony. 

We enter the charming port of Penang, which is the 
principal town of one of “The Settlements,” known as 
Betel Nut Island. The population of this city is about 
two hundred thousand, and is a very pretty,* clean, 
well-built, and withal a iflourishing city. Population 
of the entire Straits upwards of thirty million souls. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


179 


After three months of continuous travel and amid 
the villages, towns and cities of India with their mud- 
huts, bungalows and villas of the Indians and Burmese, 
we are now prepared to receive and appreciate the 
beauty of Penang, with its clean, white and smooth 
streets, large and strongly built buildings, the delight¬ 
ful tropical growth that looks so green and fresh. 

We visit a large school and mission here under the 
auspices of our Church, and were welcomed and treat¬ 
ed with kindness. Here we meet the pure Chinese, 
as they are in dark China. 

It was here that we ventured into a “Jinrikisha” 
for a ride through the streets. 

We had seen plenty of them at Rangoon, but to 
save ourselves, we couldn’t muster enough courage 
to get into one until we arrived at this seaport. 

The word literally means “A man¬ 

power carriage.” They are constructed something 
after the model of a buggy, and have a top that may 
be raised or lowered as that of a buggy. Each one is 
designed to carry one man but usually two natives 
ride. It has two wheels, with good, easy springs, and 
two shafts, between which a man walks or runs as the 
case may be. 

Imagine my feelings, as I sit back on a good cush¬ 
ioned seat and look down on my human-steed! I was 
literally and awfully ashamed of myself. You can talk 
slavery of other days, but the negro of the long ago 
South was a prince compared with the coolie of the 
modern Orient. This nation is tributary to Britain 
by right of purchase. It was purchased by the East 
India Company in 1785, in 1800 and 1867. 




i8o 


A JOURNEY 


The principal products are rice, tobacco, cocoanut, 
rubber, pineapple, tin, copper and other minerals. The 
ruling heathen religions are Buddhism and Confucian¬ 
ism, the latter the principal religion of China. 

Singapore is a beautiful city, with a commanding 
location, and is a prosperous metropolis of the tropics. 
This city divides the great East from the mighty 
West. 

All ocean liners call and coal here. This is an inter¬ 
esting place, a scene of working men and women of 
various nationalities, and a landing of all kinds of 
classes, conditions and callings of a multiplied variety 
of earth’s tongues and tribes. 

We spend ten days of exceeding profit and pleasure 
in this city of such charming views, endless activities 
and ever-varied occurrences. 

We conduct services in the M. E. Church and are 
entertained in the pastor’s beautifully situated and in¬ 
viting home. 

Dear Dr. Godbey, who had passed through a severe 
attack of India-cholera, was well cared-for in Dr. 
West’s hospitable home. Dr. West is the presiding 
elder and a godly man, full of good works. 

The Lord gave us a gracious season of His grace 
while we remained here. 

We are now under the Equator, in the torrid 
(horrid) zone, and it is warm, but is cooler just after 
the shower which falls most every afternoon. 

The population of this city claims about two hun¬ 
dred thousand, composed chiefly of the Malays—na¬ 
tives—then English, French, Germans, Chinese and 
Japanese. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


i8i 


The modern plan of building cities is quickly ob¬ 
served in the construction of this one. 

Broad streets, large business-blocks, beautiful 
parks and imposing gardens, with cozy dwellings— 
but most of all this is among the European quarters, 
and the usual crowded, attractive, oriental and pecu¬ 
liar condition of the natives continue here as in other 
lands. 

The “Jinrikisha” is the most popular mode of city 
travel. You will see them by the hundreds, and at 
night the streets are glittering with these little bug¬ 
gies, with their lamps all burning and forming a beau¬ 
tiful street scene. Then the Ghary is a four-wheeled 
wagon that is closed in, and will accommodate four 
persons. This is drawn by their little horses. 

The men who pull those little buggies wear little 
blue pants that don’t reach the knee, and not having 
any shirt or jumper, their legs and backs are exposed 
to the hot sun. Their hats are of straw or palm, and 
resemble the old-fashion bread-tray. As these men 
go in a trot, you can see the sweat simply rolling off 
their bodies, and this gait they can keep up by the 
hours. Then when night comes they haven’t made 
over forty or fifty cents, for they are hired by men who 
own and control these little buggies just like renting 
or hiring out a livery rig. And four and five years 
is their average life. 

Great and awful wickedness is carried on and al¬ 
lowed by the municipal authority within this city, 
similar to that which cursed San Francisco, “The 
Queen of the West.” 

Great wagon-loads of pineapples fill the streets. 
The scenes around the harbor are amusing; the divers 


i 82 


A JOURNEY 


kinds of toilers, the fishers, shell-gatherers, boatsmen, 
and bums. As they get into a fuss and begin their 
muttering, my sides get sore. 

Just across a narrow strip of water from us, lies 
the island of Java, where the best coffee in the world 
is raised and exported. 

Why it is that a “Monsoon” of the Indian ocean, 
is called a “Typhoon” on the Pacific, is another of the 
countless host of things that go on unexplained and 
do just about as well as though all knew all about 
all. 

Our steamer, the “Oceana” is of the P. and O. line. 
They run ships from London to Hong Kong. 

We encounter a cyclone on the Pacific, that lasted 
four days. Our vessel plunged, rolled, heaved . and 
groaned as our storm was coming down from the north 
and was cold and furious. 

We made very little speed, as it was a head-on 
storm and so terrific it looked as if the sea would swal¬ 
low us, ship and all. But we pray, read our Bible and 
commit ourselves to Him “who layeth the beams 
of His chambers in the waters; who maketh the clouds 
Plis chariots; who walketh upon the wings of the 
wind.” And we kept in an attitude of sweet praise, 
amid the raging of the angry deep. Many, yes, most 
all on board became very ill, as the result of the roll¬ 
ing billows, splashing spray, sweeping of the frost- 
crested waves, and tossing of our faithful ship. 

Hong Kong is cited and all are glad. It was on 
this steamer on a bright afternoon, with a smooth 
sea, all out on deck and seemed cheerful; a number had 
surrounded a well-dressed young gentleman who had 
finished at Plarvard, and was on a tour of the world. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


183 


He couldn’t stand a rough sea, but a calm was now on, 
and he seemed to gather new strength and courage. 
During the conversation, the subject of the science 
or anatomy of the human body was sprung, and pleas¬ 
ing speeches were made and beautiful compliments 
passed upon its perfection of make-up, utility and abil¬ 
ity of the muscles and nerves. Then soon it seemed 
that the trend and power of the whole assembly, with 
their descriptive energies, and eulogies, one and all, 
conveyed into that of the will-power, when this bright¬ 
faced and highly-cultured young fellow turned to his 
deeply interested audience, and said, “Yes, I know the 
will-power is a great and potent factor in the manage¬ 
ment of the human body; certainly it is great, grand 
and powerful, but I must sit down.’’ The sea was 
moving things around. Do you see? 

There are a number of islands, all around and near 
this great city. They seem to be large, bare and bold 
rocks, standing high up out of the water, occasionally 
with earth and a verdure of green, which makes them 
beautiful. These islands seem to be full of guns and 
death machines. The waters are deep and blue. Hong 
Kong Island was ceded to Great Britain in 1841, and 
Kowloon peninsula, on the mainland was ceded in 
i860. Then in addition another territory in the main¬ 
land was leased in 1898 for 99 years. 

You see this is England’s strategic point, and these 
places are filled with forts, breast-works and mines; 
and you will notice great old “men of war” sitting all 
around here, waiting and ready for service and com¬ 
mand. 

The entire population of this city is about one hun¬ 
dred and fifty thousand, and of all the British posses- 


184 


A JOURNEY 


sions nearly three hundred thousand. The strip of 
water that separates the island which Hong Kong is 
situated on from the mainland, is about two or three 
miles wide. Hong Kong has a very beautiful back¬ 
ground. It is a mountain rising up about eighteen 
hundred feet and slopes down gradually to the sea; 
around and upon this the city is situated. Very beau¬ 
tiful are the surroundings. 

The respective nations possess their section of the 
city, this is attractive as you witness the variety and 
peculiarity of their taste in building. 

You are greatly impressed that the Western cus¬ 
toms and influences are certain to sweep over the 
Orient and ultimately modernize the manners and 
customs of the far East. 

A walk through the busy streets, and especially 
the business section of the city reveals a scene of won¬ 
derful activity, as you must know, that everything that 
is manufactured here, is made by hand or foot, or both. 
This is one of the largest and busiest ports in the great 
East. 

Several “men of war.” (T nrious nations are lying 
quietly around in the Bay, hundreds of commercial 
and passenger ships, boats and barges swarm in and 
around over this beautiful blue water. 

The little native boats, called “Sampans,” are 
usually controlled and manipulated by Chinese wo¬ 
men. They certainly know how to run them. There 
are said to be about fifty thousand natives living in 
these little boats around Canton. 

We find excellent quarters just opposite the Post- 
office, at reasonable rates. We hurry away to the 
Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank to receive our mail. 




The Greatest Idol in Japan 









’ROUND THE WORLD. 


185 


whereupon “good news from home” greets us; and we 
rejoiced, “thanked God and took courage.” This city 
is growing with tremendous rapidity and the reason 
is that the poor Chinese are getting tired of their life¬ 
long bondage of social cruelty, political monarchy and 
the oppression resulting from the restriction of ances¬ 
tral worship, hence they repair here where they can 
work, make a living and save some money, as they are 
industrious and economical. 

It has been pronounced by different ones, with all 
the natural beauty and the scenery that has been add¬ 
ed by man in the stately buildings, lovely drives, 
charming parks, the green-covered slopes, beautiful 
dotted bay and withal the queenly-looking city as 
unusually wicked. 

There are some noble and spiritual people in this 
great metropolis, but we know with Christless rulers 
in authority, who care but little for souls, the Bible, 
Christ or heaven, can they undo more in a minute, by 
their immoral conduct and rulings, than the Christian 
or Church can repair in months and years. Do you re¬ 
call Sodom, Tyre and Pompeii and “The queen of the 
West?” 

The time has arrived that we must get to our ship, 
which is now calling us to get on board. We step 
down to the water’s edge, and there are scores of 
“Sampans” all around, urging us to get in theirs, and 
it looks as if a fight was inevitable between them. But 
away we go. Well now what a funny-looking thing 
this is, anyhow. The “Sampan” is about the size of 
a large skiff, but constructed differently, being longer 
and toward the bow, more pointed. It has a floor laid 
two or three inches below the upper edge. In the 


i86 


A JOURNEY 


widest part, which is nearer the aft-part than the bow, 
there is a square opening in the floor, and around this 
floor serves as a convenient seat, with sufficient space 
to accommodate four or five persons. 

Over this part there is a circular covering made of 
bamboo slits, or some sort of matting. There are trap¬ 
doors through the floor, and under it many things 
can be stored away. Many times whole families live 
on these little crafts and serve for double purpose as 
a residence, and a means of subsistence. The family 
live upon it, and navigate it about in the harbor on er¬ 
rands that may offer themselves. The wife and 
daughter are quite as skillful and energetic in manag¬ 
ing it as the man. 

I have seen a woman, with a child strapped upon 
her back, using the oar, or spreading the sail, or using 
the bamboo-pole with great energy and tact. 

The city of Hong Kong is a beautiful scene at 
night. As you stand on the ship’s deck, situated out in 
this wonderful harbor and cast a glance around the 
water’s edge, then upon the Bund, with the hundreds 
of shining lights, then with the gradual ascent of the 
mountain, behold the thousands of lesser lights, until 
away in yonder’s distant summit, the glare of some 
arch-light will appear as if some great star had 
descended and made that his throne. 

On board the “American Maru,” we sail away for 
Shanghai. O, how good and delightful it is to be on 
an American ship, with American officers, eating 
American food in the American manner! Here is an 
analysis of the matter. 

The recognized sociality of the West, the congenial 
association, the wholesome quality, the palpable varie- 


GROUND THE WORLD. 


187 


; ty of their eatables. Lastly, the freedom from an ex¬ 
cess of the burdensome laws of etiquette. O, what a 
relief all this is to us. 

It must have some truth in that old poetic adage, 
'‘Birds of a feather, flock together.” 

Our company is composed of Americans, Eng¬ 
lish, Japanese and Chinese and some very choice char¬ 
acters of all nationalities above mentioned. 

We anchor in the mouth of the great Yangste- 
kiang River. It must be from fifteen to twenty miles 
wide at the mouth, and very muddy. 

We enter a steam launch and plow our way up this 
murky stream, a distance of twenty miles to the great 
city of Shanghai. 

On approaching China, one is struck with the dif¬ 
ference in several particulars. On entering you feel 
at once that you are in the presence of a great conti¬ 
nent. In Japan you are confronted by bold mountains 
everywhere—here you see only a vast plain, elevated 
but little above the level of the sea. At Shanghai, 
many miles from sea, the tide rises and falli several 
feet, so slight is the elevation. 

Now we are actually in great old China! 

We are surprised at the vast amount of Western 
buildings, business enterprises, banking establishments, 
influence here in this great metropolis, in the streets, 
and many customs among the natives. But it all 
looks as though “old Memphis” had arisen from her 
long slumber and was trying to put on an American 
suit. A little out of the order of things, but you see 
this kind of thing will and must go on. Listen! “Men 
shall run to and fro. and knowledge shall increase.” 
This means a scattering of customs, social maxim, 




A JOURNEY 


i88 

industrial enterprises, commercial pursuits, and a gen¬ 
eral delegating of educational features, and best of all 
and greatest of any, it means the glorious dissemin¬ 
ation and proclamation of the gospel and the forrpa- 
tion of the mighty church of God in all the earth, 
among all tongues and tribes; and culminating in the 
return of our Lord to catch away His purified and 
waiting bride. 

We are surrounded as we arrive on the Bund, 
with all kinds, colors, classes and appearances of 
men, representing as many avocations in life, such as 
guides, and picture and postal card-sellers and what 
else. We didn’t take time to investigate, as the best 
policy is to press right through this “babel of ton¬ 
gues” and colors and pay little attention to their 
clamoring. 

The population of Shanghai, both native and for¬ 
eign, about three hundred thousand, with a tremen¬ 
dous inifiux which is on the annual increase. 

O, the possibilities of the fire-crowned Church, 
in the vast harvest fields of China! Who is able to 
count her victories and measure the triumphs of this 
mighty institution, when under the call, commission 
and anointing of the blessed Holy Ghost among the 
millions in darkened lands 



’ROUND THE WORLD. 


1S9 


CHAPTER XVIII. 

THE CELESTIAL EMPIRE. 

In undertaking to communicate to my readers, the 
facts, which are of principal interest relative to the 
vastness of this nation, the horror of their social op¬ 
pression, and the bondage of their religious procliv¬ 
ities, also the inexhaustibleness of China’s natural re¬ 
sources, the variety of their peculiar customs, and last 
but not least, the progress and triumphs of Christian¬ 
ity—with all these profound facts, I am keenly con¬ 
scious of my inability to properly approach or pre¬ 
sent this subject and do justice to the land and peo¬ 
ple of whom I write, or to the host of readers who 
will expect a fair, clear and extensive description of 
the situation. 

In order to form a solid and settled conception, 
and a practical view of the subject, it will be vastly 
important on the outset, to view the situation in the 
largest sense, and this consists in the area of the 
country, the vastness of its population, the natural 
resource, and general products of the soil; and a view 
of China’s religion and civilization, after which a con¬ 
clusion of the advancement of Christian work will be 
adduced. With these thoughts in mind, we will be 
quite able to comprehend what is contained in the cap¬ 
tion of this chapter. 

The area of China, including the entire empire is 
five million square miles, or one-third larger than 
United States, or equal to that of India and Russia 


190 


A JOURNEY 


combined. When we remember the fertility and pro¬ 
ductiveness of this continent, and realize the in¬ 
fluence that her commerce has had, is having, and 
more especially is destined to have upon the nations 
of the earth, then our vision will become somewhat 
adequate to comprehend its tremendous future. More 
vivid until this matter becomes to our minds and 
hearts, when informed that one-fourth of the world’s 
population is within the territory under discussion. 
But China proper is not so large as was mentioned, but 
contains the larger per cent, of all Chinese population. 

China is divided into eighteen provinces. Will 
you think, reader, of four hundred million souls, which 
inhabit the densely inhabited Empire of China? Lis¬ 
ten ! Permit the population of China to be strung out 
in one line, allowing for each one a foot of standing 
room; they would form a line seven hundred, seventy- 
seven thousand, one hundred and sixty-four miles 
long, or this column would form a line that would 
reach around the whole earth at the equator thirty 
times. Again, suppose you were standing at a given 
place, and this procession had to pass by, one at a 
time, and allow two persons to pass each second, it 
would require nearly seven years times to let this 
multitude pass. Then we are instructed that fifty 
million die annually from the use and eflfect of opium 
alone; now add to this, the approximate death-rate 
otherwise caused, and then multiply the answer by the 
many, many centuries forever passed, and then you 
will form some thought of an awful throng standing at 
the judgment, who came from China unprepared; and 
this is not mentioning those who will live and die in 
China’s future. What a thought! 




'ROUND THE WORLD. 


191 

China comprises a vast territory of fertile valleys 
and plains and river-bottoms. All of which compose 
one of the finest and largest canal systems in the 
world. This furnishes irrigating ability to great 
stretching plains and rich valleys, whose harvests and 
yields are famous for richness and productiveness, 
and in addition, these are gathered twice each year. 

The mountains of the great Empire contain large 
quantities of mines and varying in value and quality 
as gold, silver, iron, white copper and lead, coal and 
zinc, together with a number of different marbles and 
precious stones. 

The principal products of the land are the tallow, 
orange, plantain, tamarind, and mulberry trees, tea 
plant, lime, citron, lemons, pomegranite, a fig, chest¬ 
nut, camphor tree, cotton, tobacco, and opium—all 
abound, as well as other native growth, but of which 
we shall not speak. It would doubtless tire you to 
further refer to the farmer’s peculiar methods employ¬ 
ed in tilling the soil, gathering the crops and the gen¬ 
eral dispositions of the products. Now we approach 
a thing of which little is known or even mentioned in 
history—the dawn of Chinese civilization, or in other 
words the beginning of Chinese history. The first ac¬ 
count of the people and their appearance in this sec¬ 
tion of the world was as early, perhaps, as three thou¬ 
sand years B. C. The Chinese were a band of Tur¬ 
anian wanderers who came from the west into the 
basin of the Yellow River. 

The civilization of China is perhaps older than any 
other of the world except that of Egypt. 

When we are reminded that China’s history, an¬ 
cient, mediaeval and modern, is all conveyed into the 


192 


A JOURNEY 


present state of affairs, with but little material change, 
until just at a recent date, the elements of a great 
change are manifesting themselves, bespeaking bet¬ 
ter days and civilization for China’s people. 

It is a strange fact, that with all the association, 
commercial relation, and observations that this Em¬ 
pire has had with other nations of the earth during the 
many centuries past, she utterly disregarded all the 
forms of law, ways of administration, means of govern¬ 
mental policy, the industrial and educational features 
and the general customs of the western world, and at 
the same time, have maintained in general those that 
characterized their ancient days up through the great 
roll of ages until this day of universal dissemination 
of modern art, law, science and industry, commerce, 
education and religious thought, old China, ancient 
China, and modern China, is arousing from her bed of 
stupidity,' spiritual death, and national prejudice. We 
will refer to this more pointedly further on, and will 
confine our thought and attention to more modern 
manners and usages which meet your eye on every 
hand. 

On landing in Shanghai, we hurried away to meet 
Dr. Parker of the M. E. Church, South, who has been 
here in China many years. The greeting, reception 
and kindness bestowed upon us was characteristic of 
a man of his piety, and spiritual power, talent, faith 
and works. 

His bright-faced companion and grand old mother- 
in-law is known for her close walk with God. What 
a home! so bright, heavenly and admirable! Our stay 
was restful, full of thought, fraught with blessings ex¬ 
ceedingly valuable to us. God bless them. 



Riding in a Jinrikisha. 








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’ROUND THE WORLD. 


193 


Why the General Conference doesn’t make Dr. 
Parker Bishop over their great work in China is an¬ 
other strange thing and quite unknown. They need 
one—and they need him to fill the place, for he is 
able, a very blessed man of God and at the head of 
this great institution in Shanghai. Our association 
and conversation with this good old Southern family 
was most stimulating to our hearts. We will never 
forget it. We had “Tiffin” with them and departed 
amid their encouraging words. 

We were greatly delighted with our visit and warm 
association with Bishop Bashford of our Church, who 
is the presiding officer over China. What a wonderful 
diocese and a great, good man to fill it! 

Our interview with this noble spirit was full of 
practical instruction, and useful information tending 
upon the conditions of China. He informed us during 
the conversation, especially of two young native 
preachers, who had sought and obtained “the Baptism 
with the Holy Ghost and fire” as Methodist theology, 
hymnology and the discipline teaches it, the cleansing 
of the believer’s heart from all sin, and thus qualifying 
him to do more effective Christian work. This they ob¬ 
tained and had set in motion revival fires, tides of 
transformation and great moral and spiritual awaken¬ 
ings had resulted, insomuch, that these two men were 
in great demand from many sections in other Churches 
and missions to come and pray down revivals and aid 
in the arousing of their work to greater life and power, 
as a personal experience and that they might be able 
to do more radical and aggressive salvation work. Well, 
if two men thus prepared can awaken such sentiment, 
arouse such animation, and command blessings from 


194 


A JOURNEY 


heaven on such scales, what would or what could the 
Church do if she had what Jesus procured for her on 
the cross? A crime to live and labor without it. 

Many of the native boats are painted, and all, from 
the smallest to the greatest, have an eye painted on 
either side of the bow of the boat. 

On inquiry of this strange and superstitious cus¬ 
tom, the Chinaman responds, “Boat must have eye, no 
have eye, no see, no go.’’ 

The native city, the streets are narrow, so much 
so that you could walk down the center and touch 
the walls or houses on either side. In such streets all 
the burdens are carried by men, and if too heavy, it 
is carried by two, suspended from a bamboo-pole. 
You will see one man with two buckets of water, one 
on each end of the pole, which is balanced upon the 
shoulder. 

The wheelbarrow is a principal means of city- 
travel among the natives. This is pushed by one man 
and from three to six can ride. The Japanese have 
introduced the Jinrikisha, which is greatly admired 
and in constant employment. 

Most all (if not all of any importance) cities are 
walled in with several huge gates, with great towers 
above. These gates are promptly closed at a given 
signal. 

The great wall of China is fifteen hundred 
miles long, from twenty to forty feet high, and is wide 
enough on the top for four horses to walk side by 
side. Chinese history says, it required three hundred 
thousand men to protect the builders, and millions 
must have been employed upon it. Again, it is said 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


195 


that this wall represents more labor than one hun¬ 
dred thousand miles of ordinary railroad. 

The scenes in a native village or city streets will 
not soon be forgotten: the great crowds, the bright 
colors of their attractive apparel, the shortness of the 
female stature, and their interesting manner of dress. 
Most women in this section of China wear the panta¬ 
loon, with a costly jumper, and then their feet bound 
from infancy, until the foot is so small and dead, you 
would think at times they were using cork limbs, 
walking in such a stiff manner, O, the untold and 
indescribable suffering of China’s girl and womanhood 
caused by the curse of binding their feet! 

I remember to have entered a Chinese drug store 
where they could speak English, I inquired for a 
“Waterman fountain pen.” He had them, but said, 
“Boycott American.” I knew no pen could be purchas¬ 
ed, for the pens were American goods, and China at 
this time had become agitated because of our Chinese 
exclusion law, so they boycotted American goods, and 
all goods now in their possession from America couldn’t 
be disposed of until this law was lifted. Just prior to 
our arrival considerable trouble had arisen because of 
the action of some French Catholics, and it resulted in 
the martyrdom of several missionaries and Chris¬ 
tians. This state of affairs brought a number of “Men 
of War” of several nations into the harbor of Shanghai, 
and you can see their glittering armor-plates, mount¬ 
ed guns, and shining steel, as the sunlight increases 
their luster and frightful appearance. But all has 
subsided and peace now reigns. 

Who can comprehend the suffering of the faith¬ 
ful missionaries, loss of life, and the countless graves 


196 


A JOURNEY 


caused in China, by the ignorance, superstition and 
wickedness of her millions? It is stated that there are 
more martyrs who will receive a martyr’s crown, who 
will come from China’s great battle-field,than all others 
combined. 

We chance to see one of China’s “War fleets,” and 
it was a little interesting, but rather amusing. Their 
“Men of War” were largely constructed of wood, hav¬ 
ing sails, and but little modern fixtures of the iron¬ 
clad death-machines of the West. 

As usual, you will notice on the war-ships as is ob¬ 
served on the small crafts—the eyes on either side of 
the ship’s bow. Whether this is superstition or mere 
fancy, I know not, but it looks queer. 

It is most remarkable and very striking to note 
the obedience, behavior and reverence of the children 
in China, toward their parents, their law and their re¬ 
ligion. Upon each of above points, these children 
would teach America’s rising generation lessons of 
greatest importance and value. It is affirmec that the 
children of China are noted for their life-long love and 
deep regard for their parents. 

All cities and villages have jails, and the punish¬ 
ments connected with them are among the mo.it cruel 
in the world. For small offenses the criminal must 
wear about his neck a frame of heavy boards, called a 
“cangue.” The frame is about three feet square or 
about the size of the top of a center-table. It is made 
in pieces, so that it can be opened and the man’s neck 
fitted into a hole in the center. The common “cangue” 
weighs about twenty-five pounds, but there are raany 
so loaded with iron bars that they weigh as muc h as 
ninety pounds. Imagine your neck fastened through a 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


197 


hole in a kitchen table weighted with iron, you can 
see how you would be punished if you committed a 
very small crime in China. You would find th^t the 
frame extended out so far beyond your neck tha.t you 
could not possibly reach your mouth, and you would 
have to rely upon others to feed you. To make the 
thing appear more odious and disgusting to you and 
the people whom you come in contact with there are 
upon the top of the cangue, each side of your neck, 
long pieces of paper pasted, which fully describes the 
nature and name of your crime, and as you walk down 
the streets, the people stop to read it. Just imagine the 
crowds that swarm our cities and lands who accord¬ 
ing to the decrees of China would be loaded down 
with these frames with their crimes written upon them. 
Wouldn^t it be an exhibition of the lawlessness and 
disobedience so apparent among the youth of our na¬ 
tion? The worst crimes that can be committed in 
China are those by children against their parents. 
America, where art thou? There is no other land 
where fathers and mothers have so‘much power and 
perfect control over their children as the Chinese par¬ 
ents. 

For heaven’s sake, don’t ever be guilty of criticis¬ 
ing the people of China when at large the American 
home becomes a scene of muscular movements, physi¬ 
cal combats and in general a domestic Waterloo. 

The punishment for striking a parent in China, is 
death, and if a son kills his father or mother he is con¬ 
demned to execution by the slow process, known as 
dying by the inch. The man is tied to a cross and is 
slowly sliced into pieces. What if American parents 
should adopt such rule and authority in their homes 


198 


A JOURNEY 


and over their children, say for one years time. What 
kind of a change would there be in the home-circle, 
and in the conduct of our present generation? 

Who hasn’t seen some little ten year old boy or 
girl exert their power and authority over the parents 
and the entire household? Who can count the thou¬ 
sands of broken-hearted mothers and grey-haired 
fathers of our land which were caused by fhe wilful 
and persistent disobedience of one boy or a fast and 
unmanageable girl? 

What if all men and boys of our land who have 
caused the untimely death of their parents, were thus 
dealt with, our country would be filled with a stench 
from the decaying odors of their hanging corpses. 

Now to demonstrate the love that exists between 
the parents and children, I will insert this: A Chi¬ 
nese millionaire about forty years old was invited to 
dinner by the American consul. He replied: “I think 
I can come, but I must first ask mamma.” 

There are no better law-abiding citizens on earth 
than are the Chinamen. Their high degree of educa¬ 
tion is worthy of close investigation. This is found 
more especially among the men and boys, as the fairer 
sex scarcely ever learn to read or write. Hence you 
see the inestimable value of our Christian schools and 
missions that are operated upon purely scriptural and 
highly spiritual foundations. 


GROUND THE WORLD. 


199 


CHAPTER XIX. 

THE SUN-RISE KINGDOM. 

We sail away from China across the Yellow Sea 
and portions of the great Pacific. We steam into the 
beautiful harbor of Nagasaki, whose population reach¬ 
es nearly one hundred thousand, with more than one 
thousand foreigners. 

Here is an American transport station. Many 
large battle ships lie around in the charming bay. 

Our ship takes on coal here, and the process of 
loading certainly was interesting and yet repulsive to 
our minds. There will be many coal-barges pulled 
along side of our ships and rope or grass ladders will 
be formed and will run from these flat-boats up to the 
doors on decks of our ship, and upon these ladders 
will be stationed girls about three feet apart, and the 
coal is handled in little grass baskets, and these start 
at the bottom and go up this ladder as they are pitched 
from one to the other, until it is overturned in the coal¬ 
pit. As you watch the process it has the appearance of 
an endless chain. One thousand girls did this work. 

In less than ten hours they loaded into our ship 
from those flat-ships, eighteen hundred tons of coal. 
O, the servitude of these Japanese girls! And they 
worked for fifteen and twenty cents a day. 

Japan is a new world to us, new scenery meets 
and fills our vision at every point. New customs, man¬ 
ners, methods and people. How beautiful everything 


seems. 



200 


A JOURNEY 


Our steamer is now anchored, and hundreds of 
Sampans gather around, eager to carry passengers 
ashore, and of all the yelling, muttering and roar of 
voices, it is among Japanese boatsmen, who are 
clamoring for your attention or the closest place to the 
ladder of our ship so passengers can step down into 
their little boats, which are similar to the Chinese, 
excepting the eyes. 

These fellows are very strong having great mus¬ 
cles, brown faces and fierce countenances. But they are 
very kind and accommodating. On our landing at the 
wharfs, we are surrounded by the owners and pullers 
of the jinrikisha, who will salute you with politeness 
that would be a credit to college students. 

Nagasaki is the largest sea-port of western Japan, 
situated just in the mouth of the inland sea. 

The beautiful blue mountains, with their hoary 
heads high in the heavens, and with their green car¬ 
pet of pine forest, then the gradual slopes with their 
waving rice fields and lovely native gardens, truly 
presents a scene well-nigh beyond comparison—most 
especially when one has been accustomed to ocean- 
scenery. 

The Japanese have a trite saying that '‘you can’t 
say ‘beautiful’ until you sail over the Inland sea.” 
Truly the scenery is grand and the vision becomes in¬ 
toxicated, but we could not admit the full sense of tjie 
above statement, although there is much truth in the 
assertion. The sea became very tempestuous and the 
effect upon our company became a manifest malady. 

Kobe is a great city with a population of one hun¬ 
dred and eighty-four thousand, with a stirring busi¬ 
ness enterprise and in a flourishing condition. Beauti- 







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A Holiness Bible School in Tokio 






























’ROUND THE WORLD. 


201 


ful clean streets, and tasty houses, lovely gardens and 
crowded markets produce some characteristics of a 
modern Japanese city. 

We are pleased to note of the very excellent mis¬ 
sionary work, being carried on in this city. God’s 
blessings rest upon them. 

After two hundred and fifty miles of travel down 
the charming Inland sea, whose scenery fills the vision 
with imposing appearances and inviting landscapes, 
we stream into the great harbor of Yokahoma. We pass 
near that old smoking volcano as it rears abruptly up 
out of the ocean; the smoke and cinder from the in¬ 
ternal depths shot high into the air. We were inform¬ 
ed that people lived out there and cultivated most 
all the land available, and all this just beneath the fear¬ 
ful and threatening crater above them. I simply 
said if the whole island were given me with the under¬ 
standing that I must dwell there, I would be as kind 
in returning the favor by transferring the gift back to 
the donor. 

Now to our left, as we sail, we behold one of the 
finest pictures and most imposing scenes, in the way 
of natural beauty that has yet met our gaze, especially 
among mountain-wonders; and this is Mt. Fujay- 
ama, as the accompanying illustrations represent. This 
mountain is of immense dimensions and rises to great 
altitudes. It is not of the usual mountain-range, but 
rises and stands boldly up out of the plain. It lifts its 
snow-crowned summit more than twelve thousand 
feet high. “Its snowy cap kisses the sky.” 

This mountain-queen can be seen for many, many 
miles at sea. The beauty of it appears in the extreme 
loneliness, as it gradually rises with beautiful slopes 


202 


A JOURNEY 


which culminate in a sharp apex and then far down 
from the lofty summit hangs a mantle of purest snow, 
and appears like some glorious throne of royal splendor 
had been let down from the heavens, and now it rests 
suspended between the clouds and the green-covered 
earth—all in silence and surrounded with glory unut¬ 
terable. 

No wonder many millions unreached and unsaved 
souls of Japan pay tribute and reverence to this moun¬ 
tain, which appears so beautiful and eternal-like. They 
gather around and upon this “sacred mountain’' an¬ 
nually, searching after peace for their burdened and 
hungry hearts. O, that the sun-rise Empire might get 
a glimpse of Him who formed this charming 
structure, and learn of His glory, love and power! 

It is so easy for mankind to lose sight of the 
Creator and fasten their eyes and minds upon the 
created, and become worshippers at the shrine of na- 
cure, or devout servants in the natural and ordinary 
realm, but apparently ignorant of the supernatural 
and eternal realities of this life and the one which is 
to come. 

How natural the trend of this age to exalt and em¬ 
phasize more the visible, the earthly and the material, 
than it is to magnify, exalt and adore the invisible, 
eternal and omnipotent all-wise God. 

You can see where materialism has its origin and 
where nature worshippers begin their idolatry. 

With flags, iflying at full mast, and all passengers 
full of joy, we steam into this famous harbor. 

Now as we are in Japan, let us survey the land, 
observe its progress and investigate some conditions 
existing among the inhabitants from the standpoints 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


203 


of religion and civilization; and then we shall have a 
clearer, broader and a better understanding of this 
prosperous and coming Empire. 

The proper name for Japan is Nippon, the native 
name, which is used to delegate the hundreds of is¬ 
lands into one, and the word was given to it 

by foreigners and not by the natives. 

The Empire of Japan is composed of four large 
islands, and more than three thousand in all, hence 
the origin of “The Island Empire” is well qualified and 
needs no criticism. The total area of Japan is be¬ 
tween one hundred and fifty thousand or one hundred 
and sixty thousand square miles. 

The coast is generally rocky and difficult of ac¬ 
cess ; and broken up by many shallow, though pic¬ 
turesque inlets. The surface is hilly and in some parts 
mountainous, and has evidently been upheaved by 
volcanic action. 

Fujiyama is the highest peak in Japan; this is 
twelve thousand, one hundred and seventy-seven feet 
high. In July and August, when the snow melts off 
of this mountain, the crater at the top is eleven hun¬ 
dred yards long, six hundred wide and three hun¬ 
dred and fifty deep. 

Earthquakes are common in Japan; the greatest 
was in 1783, which lasted twelve days and many 
towns were destroyed. The hills are mostly of sand¬ 
stone. but cultivated to their very summits. Sand 
everywhere prevails in the soil. 

The climate of Japan is generally healthy and suited 
to Western inhabitants. In the north the winter is 
long and severe; this winter (1906) they had snow up 
there, well-nigh high as the telegraph-poles and great 


204 


A JOURNEY 


suffering resulted among the poor. But in the south¬ 
ern and central parts it is more equable and heavier 
rainfall. 

Japan has not much gold, but there are vast deposits 
of copper, iron, silver and coal. It is said that there is 
a coal mine containing fifty miles of tunnels, all under 
the ocean. 

Japan is a land of forests and flowers. There is no 
land in the world which has a greater variety of beau¬ 
tiful scenery. It is a country of mountains and val¬ 
leys, which are clothed with verdure to such an extent 
that you hardly believe the whole empire was once 
covered with volcanoes. As it is, there are more than 
fifty steaming mountains, with many hundreds of 
others which may burst out in eruption at any time. 
One day as we were sitting in the office of the Holiness 
Bible School in Tokyo, we felt the house tremble and 
the walls sway. We asked what it meant, the quiet 
reply was, *‘0, just a common, every-day occurrence— 
an earthquake.” The capital was visited by one, when 
there were two hundred thousand lives lost; this was 
nearly two centuries ago. 

The population of Japan is nearly fifty million 
souls, with a rapid increase of inhabitants and foreign 
influx. 

The Japanese are of a mongol origin, like the Chi¬ 
nese, are of the Turanian or Mongolian race, but with 
a stronger and heavier physique than the average 
Chinaman possesses, except in length. The China¬ 
man wears his head shaven close except a little place 
on top, where his cue is either platted or wrapped on 
his head, or hangs very beautifully, while the Japanese 
men wear their hair usually shingled quite close. 


GROUND THE WORLD 


205 


Japan was governed by a feudal aristocracy, styled 
Daimios, which literally means “Princes,” who held 
the land, and kept a large number of servants and men- 
at-arms. 

They numbered about two hundred and seventy, 
divided into six or seven classes, and their revenues 
ranged near five million dollars. From the first great 
families, the Shogun or Vice-emperor, residing at 
Tokyo, was chosen. The office of virtual ruler was 
founded in the seventeenth century. This Mikado, 
or Dairi (the great one) is descended, it is said, in a 
long unbroken line through males and females, from 
Jimmoo, the son of the gods, in the year 650 B. C. But 
in 1868 occurred the complete overthrow of the Cho- 
gun. The Emperor became the real ruler of the Em¬ 
pire. 

On the nth of February, 1889, Emperor grant¬ 
ed a European Constitution to the people of Japan. It 
is based on the German system, the whole power being 
reserved to the throne. A Parliament, however, was 
created, consisting of a House of Peers—partly heredi¬ 
tary, partly elective—and a House of Representatives 
elected by all males paying over fifteen dollars annual¬ 
ly in direct taxes. This Parliament passes all laws 
and controls, “within certain limits,” the finances. 
Judges can only be removed by legislative act; liberty 
of speech, and right of public meeting are secured. The 
royal palace is located in the heart of Tokyo and is sur¬ 
rounded by wide moats. Upon the water magnificent 
lotus flowers float on their large green leaves. Large 
bridges composed of marble cross the moats, and the 
entire palace-grounds are filled with flowers, walks, 
parks, drives and one-story buildings. 


2o6 


A JOURNEY 


The Emperor’s quarters in the palace are entirely 
separate and apart from those of the Empress, she has 
a complete court of her own, with her secretaries and 
servants. She is at the head of all movements for the 
advancement of Japanese women. 

The soil generally is a rich, black earth; without a 
stone, suitable for growing cotton, every acre of which 
is carefully manured and cultivated by manual labor. 

Rice, the staple food of all classes, is sown in May 
and gathered in November. Wheat, maze, millet, tur¬ 
nips and other vegetables are raised. Tobacco is grown 
largely, and is smoked by both sexes. Ginger and 
pepper are raised for home consumption. 

There is no pasture, the land being too valuable to 
admit this feature, which is sO' famous in the West. 

Evergreens are so common that the country appears 
cheerful and spring-like the year around. 

The fruit consists of pears, peaches, plums, oranges, 
melons and grapes; the cherry abounds with its beau¬ 
tiful blossoms in May which the natives admire so 
much, but they are unfruitful. 

Small horses of a hardy description are numerous 
and are known among farmers as “pack-horses.” 

Beautiful silk and crape fabrics, enamelled copper 
and melted vases are manufactured. These are very 
beautiful. Paper, of which it is said there are seven¬ 
ty-seven different kinds, is made, not from rags, but 
from the bark of trees; of it are made the screens 
which serve as walls in their houses, the lanterns and 
sometimes even the chimneys. They make good cabi¬ 
net work, inlaid woods, and many other things denomi¬ 
nated as “curios,” lacquer goods, tables, chairs, cups 
and all hbuse furniture, of which the average native 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


207 


home contains but little. But the above and many 
other things that are made with taste and perfection 
of workmanship, have a ready sale in nearly all of the 
world’s market. 

Now let us turn our attention and time to some of 
the manners and customs of this prosperous people. 

The Jinrikisha is the cab of Japan, and is used in 
the cities and very extensively in the villages sur¬ 
rounding. 

The home-life is an interesting study. The Japa¬ 
nese live very simply, and though there is some dif¬ 
ference between the rich and the poor, the mode of liv¬ 
ing is everywhere of the same general character, and 
a visit to, and description of one home, will serve as a 
type of the homes of Japan. 

Usually the buildings or homes in the city are two 
stories high. It is an unpainted building, with a heavy 
roof of black tiles, supported by wooden posts, which 
rest upon stones. 

You can see clear through the house and get a 
glimpse of a lovely garden lying behind. The outer 
walls have been pushed back for the day, for the sun 
is warm; and the air rushes through on all sides. 

You see everything at a single glance and you will 
wonder if the family has moved out. The rooms are 
all here, but there is nothing like our American furni¬ 
ture to be seen. No tables, no chairs, no bedsteads, no 
dressers or side-boards, as we have in our homes. The 
Japanese sit down on little mats on the floor. They 
prefer to sit on the floor. 

How clean everything is! The street or road in 
front of the house is kept clean; you can actually see 
yourself in the strip of bare floor which runs around 


208 


A JOURNEY 


the house about two feet above the ground. This is 
used as a porch and the rooms just back of this are 
covered with matting of the cleanest white straw. 
This matting forms the carpet of Japan. Usually the 
mats are three feet wide, six feet long and one to two 
inches thick. A few usually double these and it makes 
the matting-floor to be two and three inches thick, 
which is very soft and pleasant to sit on, or to use to 
spread their beds upon. 

The house is heated by little brass-lined boxes, 
filled with ashes, in the center of which a handful of 
charcoal is burning. As there are no basements for 
furnaces, no chimneys or stove-pipes about this home, 
you see the process of heating the room. They have 
little clay ovens in which they put charcoal, and boil 
and fry over the coals. 

Let us go into the house. As we approach, a little 
maid-servant comes to the front. She gets down on 
her knees, spreads out her hands on the floor, and her 
face rests on the mat in order to show you respect. 
The Japanese never wear shoes or sandals in the 
house, and we have learned already it would be far 
more polite for us to keep our gloves, hat and overcoat 
on, than it would our shoes, upon entering these 
homes. 

The politeness and neatness in manners of even the 
men and maid-servants of Japan, rebuke the manners 
of many of those leading in social circles in our coun¬ 
try. 

So in our stocking feet we step up into the house, 
and take our seats on the cushion, as it lays on the 
floor. 

Very soon some of the family come in. They bow 


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'ROUND THE WORLD. 


209 


low, getting down on their knees and bending again 
and again to the idoor. As they rise, they suck in their 
breath with a loud half-whistling sigh, as though they 
were overcome by the honor which we are conferring 
upon them by calling. 

We bow in return. Then the little maid-servant 
brings in a little box of charcoal and sits it down by 
your side, and then in a small tray she brings in, which 
contains a little tea pot and some very small cups. She 
gets down and offers it to us with a bow. We drink 
from them in Japanese style, sucking the tea in with a 
loud sipping noise to show that we like it. 

The children come in; they are dressed like their 
parents, they bow to us in the same manner. 

The children are very respectful and obedient, for 
to have a bad child in Japan is disgraceful, and all 
Japanese children honor their parents. 

You will notice the mother take one of the little 
boys or girls in her arms, and rub her cheeks against 
theirs. It is this way, the Japanese show their affection. 
They do not kiss or seldom shake hands. 

Yonder comes a little girl perhaps ten or fifteen 
years old, with a child tied onto her back. All in the 
streets and in parks, around temples and in yards you 
will see these girls carrying their little brothers or sis¬ 
ters around on their back. 

We spend several nights in Japanese hotels, and 
this will serve as a full and complete description of 
our thought upon the home. 

The Japanese are exceedingly clean, and most all 
homes have their bath-rooms. It is a sign of good 
breeding to ask a guest to have his bath first. 

The custom is such that all the family, no matter 


210 


A JOURNEY 


how many, the children bathe in the same water, and 
in the same tub, and the servants get in at the last. No 
soap is used until after getting out of the tub, and the 
body is finally washed off by pouring water over it 
with a basin after the soaping. 

There are public baths in all the cities, and in 
Tokyo they number eight hundred, in which over three 
hundred thousand people bathe daily, at a cost of less 
than one cent, for each person, so that even the poorest 
can keep themselves clean. 

Supper is now ready. We all eat in the same room, 
but each one has his little table. It is not quite one 
foot high and about that large square. We sit on the 
floor as we eat. When each course is brought in the 
little maid bows very gracefully. A soup is made of 
beans, and with raw fish cut in slices and served with 
a queer sauce called soy, dark brown in color and 
made of a mixture of salt, beans and fermented rice. 

There are some fruits and with a course, usually 
of rice and curry, which is the principal dish with the 
natives^ in India, generally used in China, and is great¬ 
ly loved by the Japanese. We are so fond of this dish, 
and they are so delighted to know it, that they bring 
us in a big, round, wooden box of the shape and size 
of a peck measure and this is filled with rice. The 
theory is that no one need go away hungry if he has 
plenty of rice. The rice is certainly good too. 

The soup is served in bowls the size of a large coffee 
cup. We drink the soup by raising it to our lips. 

The fish, salads and rice we try to eat with our 
chopsticks, but this we find to be a difficult task. 

If you will take two slate pencils, balance them be¬ 
tween the two first fingers and the thumb of the right 


2II 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 

I s 

hand, and try to pick up grains of rice and bits of 
hash with the ends, then you can see what difficulty 
and genuine embarrassment it was for us to attempt 
our first Japanese meal. They seldom have more than 
two courses, and serve three meals a day—breakfast 
on rising, dinner at noon, and supper at sunset. 

The supper is over; the family sit around on the 
floor and chat. Soon the servants go out to shut up 
for the night, by pushing the walls along in the grooves 
until each section meets and the rooms are all inclosed 
and put ofif in their given dimensions. 

We have been wondering all the while where we 
would sleep, as no beds have been in sight Our little 
maid comes, in her bowing manner; she slides back 
a board which hides a recess in the wall, and pulls out 
armful after armful of soft, thick quilts or comforts. 
She lays these on the floor, one on top of another, and 
turns down the last one for a cover. 

We look for sheets, and are informed that the Japa¬ 
nese do not use them. 

Then we wonder what we will do for a pillow, and 
we are introduced to a block of wood about the size of 
a brick. This stands on its side, and has a roll of soft 
paper on top. We are expected to put them under our 
neck, and let our head hang over the edge. 

But no, we do not want “a creek in our necks,” so 
we quickly dispense with this “hard pillow,” and pro¬ 
ceed to roll up our overcoats and employ them for our 
heads to rest on. We really tried the Japanese pillow, 
but soon found that they might do for the Japanese, 
but not for this American, so our coats answered and 
we soon forgot where we were and became lost in the 
jungles of dream-land. 


212 


A JOURNEY 


CHAPTER XX. 

JAPAN’S DEVELOPMENT. 

Before we shall enter more fully upon the rapid 
progress and modern advancements of the Island Em¬ 
pire, we must refer our reader to some customs now 
in use which are old enough. 

The Japanese sandals clatter, clatter, clatter! What 
a noise the people make as they go along the street. 
They wear curious sandals of wood or straw, and their 
stockings are a kind of foot-mitten, in which the big 
toe has a separate place. During wet weather they 
wear sandals with blocks or legs on the bottoms, about 
three inches long, and it is said the whole Japanese 
nation becomes three inches taller whenever it rains. 

The Japanese dress is peculiar, but usually beautiful 
and attractive. Both men and women wear long, flow¬ 
ing gowns extending from their necks to their feet. 
These are gracefully folded across the body in front, 
and are fastened at the waist with a sash. 

The chief difference in the dress of women and men 
is in the sash, which, for women, is usually a strip of 
fine silk more than half a yard wide, and so long that 
it can be tied in a great bow at the back. 

The gowns of both sexes are open at the neck. 
Girls are taught, at home and in schools, in walking 
to take short steps, and turn their toes inward, thus 
becoming pigeon-toed, as it were, in order that their 
garments would not divide as they step. The sleeves 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


213 


form the pockets, being made full and sewed up at the 
wrist. 

The colors of their clothes are modest in the ex¬ 
treme, and in riding through the streets, you will see 
silks and cottons of all colors, dark, blue, gray,bright 
and beautiful. 

How busy every one is! As we go through the 
principal streets we find the stores and houses filled 
with workers, who seem never to tire of their toil. 
There are crowds at the shops buying goods, and 
peddlers by the hundreds carrying their wares through 
the streets, with a bell ringing, or singing their little 
familiar song to attract attention of residents or those 
in the streets. 

There are porters by the scores with great loads on 
their backs, and servants carrying heavy baskets 
fastened by strings or ropes to the ends of poles which 
rest on their shoulders. 

There are but few horses or carriages used in the 
cities, the Jinrikisha is the mode of short transporta¬ 
tion as in the city and village travel. 

You will see a huge cart loaded with wholesale 
goods, en route to the train from some large estab¬ 
lishment. Its motive power consists of those two 
almond-eyed men who are harnessed in front, and the 
two others who shove hard behind with both hands 
and shoulders. Their muscles stand out like thick 
cords as they work, and the sweat rolls down their 
brown skins in diamond-white streams. 

Most of the streets are watered by hand, as this 
method is employed in India, they using a goat or 
sheep-skin, and filling it with water and with a rope 
attached swing it around a man’s shoulder and the 


214 


A JOURNEY 


filled skin swings by his side. The neck of the skin 
is used in letting the water flow out, with his hand to 
grip and determine the amount used in sprinkling the 
streets; they go walking in all directions. It is slow 
but sure. Then you will see larger hides filled with 
water carried by the buffalo and a man walks by his 
side and governs the flow. This method will be found 
in India, Egypt and in Palestine, but here in Japan a 
simple bucket is used and the water is thrown by 
the hand. Just of late the modern street-sprinkler is 
taking the place of all the old methods. 

The buildings look more like the bazaars of a fair 
than the substantial blocks of an American city. 
There are few larger houses, and a building rarely 
has more than two stories. The low, ridged roofs 
extend about three feet beyond the walls of the 
house. The outer walls are made in sections which 
slide in grooves back and forth: and during the day 
the front of each lower story is pushed aside so that 
the passer-by can see all that goes on within. The 
rooms are separated from one another by walls of 
lattice-work backed with white paper, through which 
the light comes. 

These walls are also in sections which move aside 
in grooves, one inside the other; and in going from 
one room to another you push aside a section of the 
wall instead of opening a door. 

The Japanese are naturally modest, but their 
customs are very different from ours, and you can 
see much of their family life as you walk down the 
streets. 

Here is a slant-eyed maiden making her toilet. 
She sits on her heels on the ifloor before a little round 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


215 


mirror, and primps and powders and paints her lips 
red while the people go by without noticing any¬ 
thing strange in the scene. 

Next door there is a family eating dinner. They sit 
on the floor and each one has his own table to eat on. 

Further on is a store. The merchant sits flat on 
the floor with his goods piled around him, and the 
floor is his counter. 

His customers sit on the floor as they shop, and 
he takes down piece by piece, while they wait. The 
clerks and merchants all alike bow very politely on 
your approach and departure. You will observe that 
the hundreds of queer-looking men and women who 
pass are all good-natured, and they treat us as broth¬ 
ers. They smile and bend as they meet one another, 
and when we stop at their stores they bow again and 
again until we think they will break in two. 

We try to be polite in return, but the Japanese 
back is more elastic than ours. 

The horses we see are not larger than good- 
sized ponies. They are used chiefly as “pack-horses,” 
though now and then we see one hitched to a cart 
and led by a big-hatted peasant. We notice that the 
horses are shod with straw shoes. The straw is so 
braided that it forms a round mat about half an inch 
thick, which is fastened to the animal’s foot by straw 
strings running around the leg just above the hoof. 

Each pack-horse has a stock of fresh shoes tied to 
his saddle, and the farmer who leads him looks now 
and then at his feet, and changes his shoes as soon 
as they become worn. 

The distances through the country districts are 
often measured by the number of shoes which the 



2i6 


A JOURNEY 


horses wear out while traveling them, and it is said 
that the average horseshoe will last for a walk of 
eight miles. 

We observe that the farmers of Japan have not 
been greatly affected by our civilization. They 
think, act, and live, much as they did in the past, and 
we notice the customs of old Japan most everywhere. 

We see Japanese women whose heads are shaved 
in order to show their grief for the loss of their 
husbands. They have no sign of eyebrows. 

We see many women who look very pretty until 
they open their mouths; but then we notice that their 
teeth are as black as a pair of new rubber shoes. 

They are farm wives who are destroying their 
beauty to show their husbands that they do not care 
for the attentions of others. 

Doubtless if this custom was adopted in America 
the divorce curse that is deluging our church and 
home would be well-nigh settled. 

We mean that the church wouldn’t be loaded down 
with social and domestic scandals with a preacher 
whose voice is silent upon this growing disgrace, and 
the courts and papers wouldn’t be crowded with de¬ 
liberations that constitute the present business. 

The men at work in the fields wear hardly any 
clothes, and we see some who have on nothing ex¬ 
cept a flat hat of white straw, large as a parasol, and 
a cloth tired around their waist. The women who 
work in the fields go barefooted and clad in big hats 
and blue cotton gowns. The men and women work 
side by side and the children have their share in the 
toil. How hard they work! They dig up the ground 
with a mattock and spade, then this soil is soaked in 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


217 


water which they turn on their little fields, none of 
which contain over two or three acres; then the 
water is turned off, and they wade in this mud and 
sow their grain. They sprout in four or five days, and 
within a month, they are ready to be transplanted. 
The rice-fields have in the meantime been flooded. 
The farmers now take the young sprouts, and in their 
bare feet wade through water and set them out in the 
mud. They flood the fields again and again during 
the summer. They keep the rice free from weeds, 
and by the latter part of September the crop is 
ready for harvest. The rice-plants grow much like our 
oats or wheat. At first they are a beautiful green, 
but as they ripen they become a bright yellow. The 
straw is cut close to the ground with a sickle similar 
to those in the holy land, and is tied up in little 
sheaves which are hung over a pole resting on legs, 
so that the heads of the rice are off the ground. 

The grains are pulled from the stem by drawing 
the straw through a rack which has teeth like a saw. 
The grains fall off and are laid away to be husked 
when required. 

Tea gardens abound. The plants are cultivated in 
rows that look like hedges. They are from three to 
five feet high. The plants produce their best tea from 
the fifth to the tenth year, but some plants are said 
to live longer than the life of a man. 

They are picked several times each year, and all 
the work connected with gathering, drying, steaming, 
rubbing, assorting and packing tea is done largely by 
Japanese women and girls. 

Tobacco, barley, cotton, and patches of wheat are 
noticed occasionally. But we pass hundreds of rice 


2I8 


A JOURNEY 


fields. Rice is the most important crop of the country, 
for it forms the chief food of the people. 

The majority of the world’s inhabitants eat rice 
and for at least one-third of them, it is their principal 
food. 

The Japanese newspapers, like the books, begin at 
the back. Their columns are wider than those of our 
papers, and run horizontally across the page instead 
of up and down it. The lines run up and down the 
columns instead of across them, and you would begin 
to read at the top of a line instead of at the side. You 
read to the bottom of the first line, and then go to the 
top of the next one to the left, and so on. 

In the past, the boys of the upper class looked 
forward to the day when they could go about wearing 
two swords, and when their chief business would be 
in battle-array, but now, ^'The pen is mightier than 
the sword,” for Japan has become a land of books and 
newspapers. It has large bookstores and great print¬ 
ing establishments. There are nearly forty Japanese 
magazines published and devoted to law. There are 
scores of others treating upon the farm and home life. 
There are all kinds of scientific journals and newspapers 
sold in all the cities. In some schools, the transla¬ 
tion of American text-books are found to be used, and 
as most all government officials, and thp best business 
men of Japan understand and use our language, 
Japan is a stirring, thriving, and without a doubt a 
prosperous and aggressive nation. There is no ques¬ 
tion but what she is the leading nation of all the great 
East, notwithstanding the limit of her territory and 
small population as compared with China or Russia; 
Her natural resources are not to be compared with 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


219 


her compeers, and her history as a civilization does 
not reach so far in the past as does great China, but 
the commercial activity, and the financial ability of 
this, nation attracts world-wide attention. 

The industrial features and educational institu¬ 
tions of the Sun-rise Kingdom calls for universal 
commendation, and deepest respect. Then with the 
mighty strides with which this nation and people are 
rising and growing as a nation, a government, and a 
great factor in the march of the world’s progress— 
emphatically Japan has become the center-point of 
the w'orld’s gaze. 

When it comes to law, science, art, philosophy, 
industry and education, Japan ranks with many na¬ 
tions whose history dates centuries before we hear of 
the Island Empire. 

The universal taste for culture and science 
among the Japanese indicates characteristics which 
would have done credit to ancient Greece, or would 
now grace any nation. 

Their love and respect for law and order gives 
material for any western people to imitate. 

Their army and navy regulations and general 
operations make Japan famous. 

First, famous for the amount of soldiers in con¬ 
stant service. All boys or men enter and enlist in the 
regular army at the age of eighteen, and spend three 
years of their life in soldiering, they learn all the tactics 
of war. Of course if the boy is physically disabled he 
is exempt from the army. Second, for the rigidness of 
army rule and discipline which they love and faith¬ 
fully observe. 

Third, for their indomitable and relentless courage. 


220 


A JOURNEY 


as was demonstrated in the capture of Port Arthur, 
and their military and naval exhibitions simply as¬ 
sure us, that their power and place in the world’s 
movements is becoming a matter of deepest concern 
and of startling amazement. It was only in 1853, 
when Commodore Perry, of the U. S. Navy, was di¬ 
rected to open communications with the government 
of Japan with a view to a treaty of commerce. It was 
during this period of Japan’s history that the revo¬ 
lution between the Shogun and the Mikado was on. 
The Shogun’s capitol was Yeddo or Tokyo, and the 
Mikado’s at Kioto; it culminated in a fierce and 
bloody revolution, and one that cost the nation many 
millions of dollars; and in 1868 the Shogun was de¬ 
feated, and was disposed of. The Emperor at this 
time was only seventeen years of age, and both im¬ 
mature and without experience. But he was taken 
possession of by the men who had made the revolu¬ 
tion, and they were said to have been remarkable 
men. By their advice, he removed his residence and 
the throne from Kioto to Tokyo, where it abides to¬ 
day. Now opens up a procession of battles, problems 
and new epochs in the history of this wonderful little 
nation, such as the restoration of the Mikado, then 
problems that arose in his government in its relation 
to foreign nations. The treaty with United States 
must of necessity be followed by treaties with various 
nations of Europe. 

This involved the residence of foreign Embassies 
at the capitol and ports; and it involved Embassies 
from Japan to other natibns, as America and Europe; 
and it also involved the opening of an active com¬ 
merce. With all these things it meant a new nation 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


221 


with new laws, schools, arts, industries, methods 
and forms of government, which practically meant 
new civilization and religion. 

It was in 1871 that the greatest change took 
place, marking the breaking up of the feudal system, 
and the organizing the new system of society. The 
army was then created; the French model was de¬ 
termined upon. A navy was created upon the Eng¬ 
lish system. Railroads were started on the English 
plan. The educational feature was then investigated 
and Americans were called upon to assist in improv¬ 
ing upon the scientific and mental problems, hence a 
good school system was well organized throughout 
the Empire, then came the founding of the Imperial 
University at Tokyo, which receives patronage from 
China and India. Now the whole Empire is consol¬ 
idated, with a good government which possesses 
good laws and the revenues are administered by the 
central gov^ernment, which appoints the governors 
of the provinces and provides for the internal police. 

All this took place in eight years. The postal 
system is similar to ours. The government ownership 
of merchant-marine, railroads, and telegraph lines is 
a great and important feature in their government 
and serves to demonstrate its value and power as con¬ 
trolled under national operation. The building of rail¬ 
roads and street-car lines is a marked evidence of the 
marvellous advancements, together with the gigantic 
commercial undertakings and the unsurpassed devel¬ 
opments in the educational and industrial pursuits of 
this “our door neighbor.” 

Many of the large cities are taking on the aspects 
of our great American cities, in broad and well-paved 


222 


A JOURNEY 


streets, and excellent street-car system on our plan. 

Then our banking system has become theirs within 
a few years past. 

Many of our customs are observed here, in the 
building of houses, car lines, electric light plants, 
postal and telegraph items, school and business feat¬ 
ures; and then the dress manners and life of the wes¬ 
tern world are manifest here. Tokyo, the capitol, has a 
population of nearly two million, and doesn’t cover 
an area as large as that of Chicago or Boston. 

Beautiful scenery is to be seen in the great public 
parks and gardens where in the spring and summer, 
the ceaseless throngs repair for air, scenery, and 
amusement. The Japanese are a people full of deter¬ 
mination, energy, courage and ambition; and also 
possessed with a keen intellect, strong mind, and with 
a Napoleon-like will. 

But their grace and politeness of manners, and 
their love for modern civilization, make them the won¬ 
der of this age, and a marvel of the nations. To make 
mention of the variety of avocations, with their pecu¬ 
liar way of doing things, would command more space 
than can be allotted; and to accurately convey to the 
minds of my readers of all the strange and amusing 
customs, notions and manners, both in public and pri¬ 
vate life, in their social and domestic circles, and all 
the marvellous changes of modern Japan, would be a 
problem of such proportions that I am unable to as¬ 
sume, and care not to attempt, but will sum the 
whole study up in saying, 'Tt is a wonderful nation 
with marvellous resources and products: and filled 
with a mighty populace and is destined to ascend high 
in the world’s standard. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


223 


CHAPTER XXL 

EVANGELISTIC LABORS. 

As the two preceding chapters have been devoted 
to information and a general observation of the nat¬ 
ural and material aspect of ‘‘The Sun-rise Empire,” 
and having confined our thought and attention to the 
intellectual and social problem of the inhabitants, 
in this chapter, we shall give our time, thought and 
observation, to the religious proclivities of the Japan¬ 
ese, and especially we shall direct your attention to 
the progress of the gospel, and of our labors and 
travels among the people. 

Japan is boastful over the number of their highly 
respected idols. They claim to possess eight hundred 
million idols. 

The prevailing heathenish religion is Shintoism; 
and Buddhism has a considerable following too. The 
word Shinto means simply the doctrine concerning 
God. There are many temples throughout the country; 
and the priests claim that they use no images in their 
worship. The history of it is said to go back to the 
beginning of things, and when the first god and god¬ 
dess were evolved out of the primary elements, the 
gods and goddesses multiplied, and out of their fruit¬ 
fulness the family of the Mikadoes sprung, so that the 
present Mikado is the representative of the divine 
presence on earth. 

Hence you observe the greatest prevailing obstacle 


224 


A JOURNEY 


against the more powerful advancement of the glory 
of evangelism among the inhabitants—which is the 
love, reverence and supreme regard with which the 
subjects of the Emperor hold him, as related to their 
religion and nation. 

They think at first, at least, that Christianity 
means that they must turn traitor to their great ruler 
and denounce him without mercy; with this fanatical 
notion holding their minds, it takes time and mighty 
conviction, wrought by the Holy Ghost, to “turn from 
darkness to light and from the power of Satan unto 
God.” 

When once they learn that Christ and salvation 
deal with sin, and deliver their soul from its bondage, 
(all heathen religion is the evidence of the conscious¬ 
ness of sin and the burning desire for a remedy and its 
application for their freedom from its guilt and power,) 
and that it does not call for disobedience and disre¬ 
spect for their ruler, then you have an audience among 
this people. 

It was in the sixth century of th^ Christian era 
that Buddhism entered Japan from China and Korea, 
and soon met with popular favor. 

The moral code of the Buddhist in Japan, as in 
India, stands above criticism, but as religion both its 
dogmas and its practice as well, are evil, and only 
evil continually. It is idolatrous and superstitious 
in the last degree, and many of its rites and supersti¬ 
tions are as silly as they are abominable. 

You are surprised to notice the striking similarity 
that exists between the images and shrines of Bud¬ 
dhism and Roman Catholicism in many respects— 
similar in modes of worship, in various but corre- 


k 

1 

r 



Preaching Beneath the Cherry Blossoms 







’ROUND THE WORLD. 


225 


spending usages of the ^^Holy Water,” the burning in¬ 
cense, and the string of beads; then there are the 
images and the usual prostrations: when in these tem¬ 
ples, beholding the general operations of priest and 
people you scarcely realize but that you are witnessing 
the carryings on of the priest of Rome. 

The Buddhists have their purgatory, and the opera¬ 
tion of procuring a soul’s deliverance depends upon 
the amount of fee. 

Wonder if Rome received her instructions at the 
hands of Buddhism, or did Buddhism study, graduate 
and evolve from the Romish system? Twin sisters— 
Paganism and Heathenism—their nature, character 
and effect relate so minutely one to the other; and 
both about as far from Christ and Bible salvation as 
the north pole is from the south. 

Great temples, some very costly and famous, are 
to be found in some parts of Japan. The temples of 
Nikko are wealthy, costly and venerable, as many 
thousands repair here for worship. 

Then there is a temple in Asakusa, Tokio, which 
doubtless is more famous for the throngs who are ever 
swarming in and out of its open gates, between sun¬ 
rise and sunset. 

Prayers are offered to the gods of various temples 
in this fashion. The prayer writes his petition on a 
piece of paper, reduces it in his mouth to the con¬ 
dition of stiff pulp, which he makes into a ball, and 
this he throws at the Prayee. If the ball sticks, the 
petition is favorably received; otherwise it is denied. 

Similar to this in India the worshiper has a written 
prayer which he hangs on the “sacred tree” and on 
its remaining amid the blowing winds, it is receiv- 


226 


A JOURNEY 


ing attention, but if it blows away no attention was 
received from the gods. 

As we stand in this old dingy looking temple we 
witness the hundreds coming in and bowing down be¬ 
fore some god of wood or stone, say their prayers and 
pitch their offering over into the pit. We are sickened 
and grieved at heart at their anxiety for soul rest, and 
no possibility of finding it in these forms; also the 
laxity and stupidity of the great Church in her efforts 
and power to “throw out the life line,” and to point 
them to “the Lamb of God, which taketh away the sin 
of the world,” and lastly to view the magnitude of the 
work which must be accomplished soon, as these vast 
throngs of immortal souls will soon be in eternity. O, 
the burden of soul and heaviness of heart as we gazed 
upon those multitudes, who are seeking after relief and 
freedom from the burden of their heart and mind! 

We have said that the moral precepts of the Budd¬ 
hists are above criticism, and no doubt there are some 
who are more or less influenced by them, but the gen¬ 
eral tone of morals is very low. Impurity abounds. 
A missionary physician in charge of a dispensary, said 
he had a very large practice and that at least eight- 
tenths of all the cases that he treated were diseases 
which were the direct effect of licentiousness. He 
further states, that in proportion to their numbers as 
large a proportion of these cases were of the Buddhist 
priest as of any other class. 

This will serve to give you an insight of sufficient 
scope and depth into the dying and decaying religions 
that have held Japan in their grasp lo, these many cen¬ 
turies, but which must and which are giving away be¬ 
neath and before the certain rising currents of power, 





’ROUND THE WORLD. 


227 


glory, beauty and exalted civilization which is the true 
characteristics of “the gospel of Jesus Christ unto sal¬ 
vation” for both Jews and Japanese. Hallelujah! 

The result of the direct power, life, and operating 
influences of the gospel, the Church and especially the 
Spirit-possessed Christians with and among the people 
of Japan for many, many years was demonstrated in 
forming the treaty of commerce with the United States 
in 1854, when Commodore Perry, with warships, steam¬ 
ed into the beautiful Yeddo bay, and from the bow of 
his ship, he read aloud the looth Psalm, and with all his 
sailors on board sang an old Christian hymn ; this was 
the weapon that prospered in the opening of that na¬ 
tion, not only to our great commercial activities but also 
it was the beginning and glorious epochal period of the 
Church at home, when she could, alongside of com¬ 
merce, enter this field of golden grain and launch an 
enterprise that culminated in the present condition of 
Japan; and will ultimate in the sun-burst glory of 
God’s kingdom, which shall disclose the folly and curse 
of heathenish rites and ceremonies; and lift the people 
to a greater, higher and more noble plain, both in 
Church and State. 

In many sections the temples are old, ugly and ap¬ 
pear greatly dilapidated. While in others there are 
costly, beautiful and well-preserved ones. But appar¬ 
ently the former marks their taste, thought and state 
of mind as relating to their former manner of worship. 

Near Yokohama is the celebrated Dia Butsu, 
which means “the great Buddha.” It is a colossal 
image, forty-four feet high, at the largest part twenty 
feet in diameter from front to rear, and twenty-five 
feet from side to side. 




228 


A JOURNEY 


It is of fine bronze, cast in sections, the metal not 
being more than two or three inches thick, so that the 
image is perfectly hollow. 

From the foundation one can ascend inside by 
means of a ladder, which you can ascend and find 
yourself in the bosom of Buddha—which is Nirvana, 
the heaven of the Buddhists. 

This statue is of such tremendous proportions, that 
even the thumbs are three feet in circumference and 
his thumb nails measure four inches by six; and it is 
said that two men can easily sit on his thumb and 
then have room to spare, and that its eyes are three 
feet in length and are of solid gold. 

You may be surprised to know that in some 
quarters the temples have been deserted and now are 
used to preach the gospel to the natives or used by them 
to teach school in. 

Having arrived at Yokohama, we were met by some 
of our beloved missionaries, we were soon on shore 
and passed the accustomed examinations. We entered 
the train and started for Tokio, a distance of eighteen 
miles over a railroad which was the first built in Japan, 
constructed sometime in the seventies; now there are 
about two thousand, two hundred and forty-two miles 
of roads built, and under construction about nine hun¬ 
dred and fifty miles. 

To show you that glass windows are new to the 
natives of the interior, you will notice three large red 
lines, painted horizontally on the windows of the train 
coaches; this serves to inform the natives, that glass 
is easily broken, and there is something besides an 
open place; unless those red marks were there, just as 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


229 


apt as not one would shoot his head or thrust his hand 
right through the glass. 

We are welcomed and received with joy and Chris¬ 
tian kindness that we shall not forget. O the sweet 
I association and fellowship known only by those who 
I have entered into that state and grace of perfect love 
: and the Canaan land of Christian perfection! 
i We are entertained in the warm and happy home 
of dear Bro. and Sister Kilbourne, formerly of Chicago. 
We shall never forget their kindness, care and help. 
Then there is their happy daughter Lila, and son Ed¬ 
win ; they are so bright and joyful in the Lord’s ser¬ 
vice out here. 

Brothers Cowman and Kilbourne, are at the helm 
of “The Oriental Missionary Society” which has its 
seat of general operations here in Tokio, but which 
embraces all of Japan, Korea and China. 

There is a large Holiness Bible school here that is 
conducted on Pentecostal salvation rules and methods; 
and is operated on strictly radical and scriptural holi¬ 
ness lines. 

There are more than one hundred young men and 
women who come here and receive or maintain the 
definite and distinct “two works of grace” as the 
Wesleys taught and died with; and then they are 
thoroughly drilled in salvation work, and are sent out 
to the different sections of their native land to superin¬ 
tend mission work and carry forward the work, get¬ 
ting the people saved and sanctified, after which they 
teach them the secondary things of a secular nature, 
such as teaching to sew, cook and learn music and 
other useful features of industry. 

We mix and mingle with the students and teachers 



230 


A JOURNEY 


in revival w^ork, during our campaign in and around 
Tokio, and during our stay and labors we found them 
—one and all energetic, enthusiastic and profoundly 
spiritual. 

In addition to the most worthy Bible school, they 
publish “The Electric Messages,” a full salvation jour¬ 
nal which is the official organ of the society, is pub¬ 
lished in English and gives news direct from the fields 
of missionary operation, and is full of pithy, juicy, 
fiery letters, testimonies, reports and information from 
the native workers, stations and the missionaries; this 
paper is securing a wide attention among the holiness 
people of America and England. 

Then, they have a number of wide-awake mission 
stations in Tokio as well as many others scattered 
up and down the empire. 

Our labors while in Japan were principally among 
this noble and aggressive society who are distinctively 
known in all the empire for their soundness on the 
powerful doctrines of the Scripture, especially those 
essential ones, such as repentance, restitution, regen¬ 
eration and entire sanctification; also the blessed and 
inspiring doctrine of the soon coming of the Lord. 

The power of God was manifest upon our labors 
while here, as we had never witnessed before. 

During our campaign, which lasted nearly seven 
weeks, there were more than four hundred seekers for 
the blessings contained in “The double cure”—pardon 
of sins, and the complete cleansing of their hearts 
from all sin, and these numbers were seeking God in 
the missions which are under the operation of the 
above society. 

It is certainly refreshing and stimulating to the 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


231 


soul to see with what eagerness and appreciation these 
precious hungry souls respond to the call and convic¬ 
tion given by the Holy Spirit. 

How delightful to our souls to give out the mes¬ 
sages of the Lord through the interpreters—Brothers 
Kurumada, Sasao, and Saito. These are three won¬ 
derful men, and God is greatly using them in giving 
out His glorious gospel along with the host of singers, 
preachers, workers and helpers, which constitute the 
Spirit-filled army who are making Japan to feel the 
currents of God’s power and the glory of redeeming 
grace. 

Then Rev Sasao, edits the “Tongues of Fire” in 
the native language; this is a red-hot holiness journal; 
and is doing untold good in agitating the gracious doc¬ 
trine, experience and life of holiness among the native 
Christians. This man is called “The Moody of 
Japan.” God bless him, he is in co-operation, heart 
and soul with this full and free salvation mission 
work. 

In company with Rev. E. A. Kilbourne, and our 
interpreter. Rev. Saito, we started out on a missionary 
itinerancy up to some of the stations in the country. 

We visit Utsunomiya, where they have a station 
that is doing work for God, but where the workers 
meet with sin, darknes and spiritual wickedness. We 
greatly enjoyed our labors here where souls were 
brightly converted and sanctified. Then to Hachioji, 
another station, here the Lord gave heavenly manna 
and souls rejoiced in His grace. 

During our evangelistic work among these several 
stations, we observed two or three things, that we wish 
to call your attention to, first, the universal hunger, 


232 


A JOURNEY 


especially among the middle and lower classes, for the 
Word, and bread of eternal life. 

Undoubtedly, their faith in the old religions is 
certainly dying out and they are losing their taste 
and interest in immoral priests, vain philosophers and 
utter lifeless and helpless gods; and now their heart 
and soul is turning “from idols to serve the true and 
living God.” 

Second, the manifest humility and obedience as is 
taught and so highly emphasized in the Scriptures. 

Third, their zeal and love for souls when once 
saved. 

I have never met with such untiring and persistent 
Christian workers, as we find here. 

Fourth, one among the first things that a seeker or 
inquirer does on coming to the altar, is that, he reach¬ 
es down and pulls his pipe from his belt, or thrusts 
his hand into the large pocket in his sleeve, and gets 
out his cigarettes and either throws them away or 
gives them to the missionaries who dispense with 
them on short notice. Now where the doctrine of full 
salvation is clearly preached the people in Japan clean 
up and out—first to get or to keep pardoned, then they 
seek and obtain a clean heart. 

What kind of an example is this for thousands of 
preachers and church members in enlightened and 
Christianized America? 

Fifth, the eagerness and reponse with which the 
truly converted accept, seek and obtain the blessed ex¬ 
perience of holiness. The gracious experience of 
“Christ-crowned within” is the glorious privilege of 
every child of God, whether in the Eastern or Western 
hemisphere. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


233 


We visit a session of our conference that convened 
in Tokio. We were happy to meet and to converse 
with Bishop Harris, the presiding officer. 

He informed us that the work of the Church in 
Korea, was simply gracious and fruitful. 

He further states that, “The work of evangelizing 
results in the salvation of more souls, than 
can be baptized and taken into the Church because of 
the need of more pastors.” 

We were treated with kindness and Christian 
courtesy, while among this conference body; and will 
not soon forget our joy and profit that we gained by 
forming the acquaintance and association of such a 
body of preachers and workers as constitutes this 
conference. 


234 


A JOURNEY 


CHAPTER XXII. 

HOME-WARD BOUND. 

With many urgent calls to visit different sta¬ 
tions of various churches and especially mission 
stations up and down the land, our hands and 
hearts, and time were consumed with the continual 
work in the campaign as described in the last chapter, 
so with all this gracious chain of work, we were not 
able to respond to but few other calls, as our time was 
limited for Japan; but we visited Brother and sister 
Smelser who are leaders of the “Sent of God’' mission 
in Yokohama. 

Their mission is located on a theater street, where 
many hundreds are thronging by the door. 

We sing some and then preach through an inter¬ 
preter to a good size, and appreciative audience. 

It was simply marvellous. One thing is very cer¬ 
tain, and that is, if your interpreter is not clear and free 
in his own experience, it matters not how hard you 
try to explain and enforce the need and sacred privi¬ 
lege of getting sanctified wholly through the precious 
blood of Jesus, the message and its fire seems to fall 
lifeless on the ears of the hearers. 

The same is true in America with a preacher who, 
hasn’t a conscious witness that “The blood cleanses 
from all sin” when he attempts to preach on the 
gracious state of grace, which he does not himself 
possess; the sermon seems lifeless of tone, depth of 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


235 


power, clearness of doctrine and beauty of grace; and 
the audience fails to respond, and spiritual apathy 
seems to dominate. 

Our short stay with this station seemed to have 
been fruitful in immortal souls plunging into the foun¬ 
tain of life, and how sweetly they would sing 

Tada shinze yo 
Shindzuru monona 
Tarense, Mina 

Sukuwaren,—which means, “Glory to His name; 
glory to His name; There to my heart, was the blood 
applied, glory to His name.” 

We are greatly surprised and yet delighted to ob¬ 
serve the amount of western influence upon this 
city of Yokohama. The tide of prosperity and the 
great influx of western civilization is forming this city 
into one like one of our thriving centres of America. 

The relation that this city has with other nations 
in their commercial pursuits makes it famous and also 
quite conspicuous in the eyes of different countries. 

There is some faithful work being done here, but 
not what might or ought to be, as we view' the need 
and the marvellous opportunity for missionaries and 
a good, solid and aggressive station to do work for the 
Master, in meeting the various ships, with their hun¬ 
dreds of passengers and sailors and doing personal 
work, and by coming in touch with the thousands of 
seamen and preaching Christ unto them; and at the 
same time keep the mission running on full salvation 
lines. 

I rather think that Brothers Cowman and Kil- 


236 


A JOURNEY. 


bourne will install workers at this strategic point. 
The present population reaches nearly two hundred 
thousand. 

The new town is numbered by houses and not 
streets, thus—‘‘No 86, Yokohama.” 

We are delighted with our visit through the native 
Bazaars of this city—they are a long and narrow room, 
perhaps ten feet wide, and on either side are the Japa¬ 
nese curios of wood, tin, brass, paper, copper and cloth. 
You will notice that most all the clerks are girls, who 
are very polite and neat in their manners and deport¬ 
ment. 

You continue in this narrow hall-like room, wind¬ 
ing and turning and passing clerks and great quan¬ 
tities of goods. Eventually you come out just a few 
feet from where you entered; and on the same street. 

We are now in Tokio, with our beloved missionary 
friends, with our luggage on a cart, and all ready to go. 
We bid our friends adieu, and with all the energies we 
possess, as the students are shouting out to us, some 
in English, “Good bye,” “Goody bye,” and others in 
their native tongue, cry out “Say-o-nara,” the meaning 
of it is, “Since it must be so,” and the noble girls and 
boys are bowing so gracefully unto us, we feel too 
ungrateful and utterly unable to respond with any de¬ 
gree of manners and politeness. As we walk away 
from that blessed Bible school amid the shining faces 
and cheering words we feel to say, “Behold, what God 
hath wrought.” We shout back—“Hallelujah,” and 
some respond “Praise de Lawd,” and “Glory to 
Jesus.” It was a sight and occasion worth all that came 
across our pathway that seemed to contest our rights in 
this life. God bless the work in Tokio-Fuka, Japan; 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


237 


and all others who are striving to magnify our com¬ 
ing Redeemer. 

Thi$ seems to have closed our actual missionary 
tour, for nothing but water and a few islands inter¬ 
vene between us and faraway home-land. 

It has been our glorious honor of witnessing be¬ 
tween fifteen hundred and two thousand souls, seek¬ 
ing the Lord in the pardon of their sins or in sancti¬ 
fying of their souls since our leaving America, in less 
than one year. Glory to His matchless name forever! 

It is strange, but so blessed, that in such a short 
space of time to form acquaintance, create fellowship 
and become cemented in faith, works and co-operation, 
that you don’t realize the depth and value until you 
are forced to break away; then you can begin to feel 
and know the blessed mysteries of sanctified associa¬ 
tion ! I mean that unity and fellowship which grows 
and flows from a heart made clean, and a life filled 
with the fragrance of the Holy Ghost. 

What wonderful days and gracious weeks were 
those spent in the Master’s service, while thus we 
tarried in “The Sunrise Empire.’’ We shall never for¬ 
get the wondrous seasons of Divine grace upon our 
poor hearts as we were associated with that host of 
sanctified students with their teachers as we labored 
in Mission No. i, and Asakusa Missions, also during 
the street or open-air meetings, which were usually 
conducted in the great Neno Park, where thousands of 
young and old, rich and poor, men and women, repair 
to stroll and gaze upon the beautiful cherry blossoms, 
to rest and be amused. 

It is here that a crowd of the students—all on fire 
—come with their musical instruments and play and 


238 


A JOURNEY 


sing our full salvation songs in their native tongue, 
then they turn loose a red hot stream of testimonies 
and preaching of God’s word to that vast throng who 
have gathered all around us, until there is but little 
standing room for us, then we are invited to sing some 
song in English, which attracts the ears of most all 
young Japanese boys, who are eager to learn all the 
English they can, so the crowds increase. Then we 
are asked to give a message; this we do and our inter¬ 
preter gives it out to the throng of eager, and spell¬ 
bound souls in torrents of zeal, power and faith. 

It is simply marvellous to see the effect of this 
open-air work in scattering tracts and portions of the 
Scripture. The Lord is crowning this people and their 
work, with ^‘fruit that will remain.” 

It was 10 o’clock on Saturday morning, April the 
28th, 1906. 

Our friends. Rev. and Sister Whitney who are 
laboring in connection with the society mentioned. Sis¬ 
ter Minnie Upperman, Brother Kilbourne, daughter 
and son, together with Bro. and Sister Smelser, gath¬ 
ered on the shore with us, when we hired a ‘‘Sampan” 
and put our baggage in and all sailed out to the great 
Ocean-queen. 

It was a very tender cord that bound us to these 
millions of souls, and to the great work now in opera¬ 
tion on radical holiness lines; and for these dear 
workers who are laboring against odds and ends that 
the people in the home-land know but little about. 
Their crowns will shine with fadeless luster, and their 
capacity .for the sublime wonders of glory and grace 
will eclipse that of the comon rank and file of the 
Christian world. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


239 


You will see steam-launches of various sizes, colors 
and character as they plow their way up to our great 
vessel,—some are the steamer’s launches, others are 
hotel, government and private launches,—but all 
loaded with friends and relatives to bid some fare-well 
and others were those who are to cross the Pacific. 

I remember just at the shore where had congregated 
a great crowd of fine-looking Japanese, men and wo¬ 
men, the women were dressed in their modest and 
beautiful attire, while the men, doubtless merchants 
and bankers—were dressed out in Prince Albert suits 
with tall silk hats. 

When one very distinguished Japanese banker 
walked along the stone pavement that intervened be¬ 
tween the custom house and the waters’ edge, there 
was formed a line on either side of him, and as he pass¬ 
ed down the aisle, and down the stone-steps to the little 
platform which is lower, they all bowed three times, 
very gracefully and he bowed as he walked, then after 
he was on the launch this bowing was renewed until 
the little boat bore him out of their sight. 

We notice some differences in the customs of the 
people on their departure. The Americans and Eng¬ 
lish shout, “Good bye.” 

The Greeks, as a rule, kiss the top of the right hand 
on their separating. 

The Turks raise their right hand across the fore¬ 
head and say “Salum” and the Japanese bow grace¬ 
fully and shout back “Sayonara.” 

Our scenes around the ship are shifting and impor¬ 
tant in their various aspects. The heavy cargo is 
about all boarded, the great quantity of baggage is 
now going into the hold of the ship. Fruit and curio- 


240 


A JOURNEY 


sellers are flying around on their errands; the mails 
are now coming on, and this is a great item; the decks 
are crowded with relatives and friends talking,—chok¬ 
ing,— attempting conversation, and others weeping. 

Sailors and officers are rushing and dispatching 
work, which must precede our long journey. 

The great gong sounds and friends are dividing 
and the decks are being cleared of all who are not pre¬ 
pared for this perilous journey. 

We talk fast, until our heart seems to get into our 
throats, and our eyes fill—our friends give us their 
blessings and kind cheering words. 

Now the whistle blows and every one goes down 
the long ladder that runs down the ship, so the people 
can descend to the launches and Sampans. 

Our anchor is lifted and we start on our long, long 
voyage, which is more than six thousand miles. 

Our flags are all flying at full mast, and our 
mammoth engines start the gigantic propellers which 
move our steamer forward. 

Our kind friends are waving their little white flags 
and shouting to us until their voices fail to reach our 
ears, and until distance separates us, we bow our heads 
and breathe a prayer for them, and the work of their 
hands, that the Lord will continue His gracious mani¬ 
festations and operations upon their work and workers 
as has been so clearly revealed in the past. 

O, the possibilities of the modern holiness move¬ 
ment upon the ripened fields of Japan! 

Who can describe the triumphs of the Church, if 
she only was 'Tiled with faith and the Holy Ghost,” 
as she would march across these battlefields where 
paganism, sin and superstition reign. 



Grey-Hounds of the Pacific. 












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’ROUND THE WORLD. 


241 


CHAPTER XXHI. 

PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC. 

We passed out of the beautiful bay, with the many 
and various classes of warships waiting in silence for 
the word that would cause a stir. O, the vast differ¬ 
ence in the battle-ships of Europe, America and Japan 
compared with those of China. The great empire has 
the population, but little Japan possesses a navy that 
would wade right through that of her next-door-neigh¬ 
bor whose family out-numbers them nearly ten to one. 

W'e pass close by the first-class battle-ships 
“Ohio" and “Wisconsin." They lower the flag as we 
steam by, and in response we lower the great flag on 
our huge vessel. 

What a monster of the navy is the “Ohio" with her 
glittering, death-dealing guns, shining steel, smoking 
funnels, and with her impenetrU h armour plates! 

As we gaze upon these dreadtul and frightful look- 
i' monsters of war, we wonder what the next twenty 
fty years will reveal, using the present material 
thi ‘ is now before our eyes for foundation ? 

Seeing the tremendous inventions within the marine 
circles of the past thirty years, who is able to foretell 
of the certain revelations and startling inventions that 
await even this rising generation? 

Who would have thought the greatest part of wars 
and terrible coniflicts would have been transferred 
from the land forces or hand-to-hand combats to 


242 A JOURNEY 

watery plains, and bloody battles caused by modern 
“men of war?” 

It appeared until very recently that a nation’s 
strength and possibilities were vested within her army; 
but the secret now seems to be formed in the powr 
and equipment of her navy. 

We bid farewell to the great city of Yokohama 
and her famous harbor, where scores of great ocean- 
liners are streaming, ready for their long voyage, or 
others just arrived. 

In our childish mind we used to wonder that 
so many ships crossing and re-crossing the ocean, how 
they kept out of one another’s way; and we were the 
more surprised as we crossed to know where all the 
ships had gone, for we had passed or seen scarcely 
a single one during our great voyage. At times you 
will almost conclude that you are clear out of touch 
with the world in which you were born, raised, and 
had been preaching and travelling through, but now 
you seemed to be on a globe of trackless, moving, roll¬ 
ing, thundering and dashing water. 

Now the glitter and glare of the works of men are 
hidden from our vision; all the artificial and deceptive 
has been eclipsed, and the “beggarly (poorly) ele¬ 
ments of the world seem to have faded from even our 
natural eye, all the surface-like, light and frivolous, cer¬ 
tainly have been enveloped in the mighty deep. The 
roar and din of commerce, industry and society has 
died away beneath the thunderings of Jehovah upon 
this vast domain of His creation. 

The rush and clamour of speculators, financial 
thieves and oppressors of the poor appear to have made 
their last dash before our eyes ; all the earth has vanish- 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


243 


ed, the charms have lost their grip and attraction; and 
the material and natural things so common fail now 
to respond or to meet with any sort of reception in our 
awe-stricken and infatuated soul or mind. One will 
say, “All that’s fancy or imaginary and will not stand 
the test.” Well, we are aware of this being a mental 
panorama or a visionary picture, but the truth of the 
matter, when properly applied, is that when a soul 
launches out, severs all connection with the worldliness 
of this age, then he lets down his net into the deep and 
all the elements of carnality are removed from his 
heart by the ail-cleansing “blood of the everlasting 
covenant” and then he joyfully receives “the Baptism 
with the Holy Ghost and fire,” in all His blessed ful¬ 
ness, which not only cleanses the heart, but at the 
same time will clarify the vision and illuminate the 
mind, so that the beauty, glory and majesty of our 
God will ever fill and thrill his enraptured gaze. 

The world, with all it possesses or professes, will 
have no charm for, 

“That soul, that on Jesus still leans for repose, 

I will not, I cannot desert to his foes.” 

But it will proclaim as with the poet, 

“I am drinking at the fountain, where I ever would 
abide. 

For I’ve tasted life’s pure river, and my soul is satis¬ 
fied. 

There’s no thirsting for life’s pleasures, nor adorn¬ 
ing, rich and gay. 

For I’ve found a richer treasure, one that fadeth not 
away.” 




244 


A JOURNEY 


It is very certain and evident that when a soul 
is transplanted from the kingdom of darkness to that 
of light, the logical sequence and natural inference 
would be, that his life would be full of light, and free 
from darkness. Again, if according to the Scriptures, 
one is '‘not of the world even as I am not of the world,'' 
he must belong to and represent another and subsist 
upon that mysterious but well-known hemisphere. 
Then to clinch the truth and draw the line, which sep¬ 
arates the heaven-bound citizen who is yet in the world, 
from those who are of the world—worldly and in the 
real sense—are its own, we will quote the descriptive 
standard clearly given in “Thus saith the Lord:" 

“Love not the world, neither the things in the 
world. If any man love the world the love of the 
Father is not in Him." 

Now this will locate and fully photograph every 
person, just their condition of heart and relation of life 
to heaven or of the “world which lieth in wickedness," 
and then to forever make the contrast vivid and posi¬ 
tive it is added, “He that is a friend of the world is 
an enemy to God." 

You see we are to be in the world, but really liv¬ 
ing in one new and very distinct from the one visible 
to the natural vision. 

O, the visions of our God which fill the eyes of 
the soul as we roll over this trackless domain! What 
revelations of His power and majesty we receive as 
we glance over the surging, stormy deep! What bless¬ 
ed seasons of communion we have, as we are shut out 
from all the world, but shut in with such sacred en¬ 
vironments and gracious relation—all with our Lord! 

How luminous the word, glorious and strengthen- 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


245 


ing the sacred truth! O, how sweetly are we assured 
of His presence; what blessings in prayer, and how 
high and profitable are the hours and days unto our 
souls as we plow across the rolling billows. 

Many days have passed with nothing in sight but 
the surging waves, heaving billows, and the continued 
sweeping of the restless spray. 

But we never tire of standing on the highest deck 
where our view will be unobstructed and gaze far out 
upon the stormy bosom and remember the promise 
is, that all who perished in this vast world of water 
will at that day arise and appear before the judgment 
seat of Christ, when the trumpet sounds. O! what an 
innumerable army will march from the coral depths 
of the mighty ocean, to meet their record, and to re¬ 
ceive their reward! 

Without an event of danger or loss of life we are 
safely guarded and preserved by the everlasting arms 
over and around our ship. We have travelled about 
four thousand miles since our eyes have feasted upon 
the beauty of the land or the vegetable kingdom. . 

We are anxious to see what we have read of in 
geography and in other works, and that is “The Para¬ 
dise of the Pacific.” One would naturally think that 
this referred to the beauty and character of the great 
ocean of that name. But you are informed that the 
word “Pacific” doesn't properly and fully express 
the true nature and character of this ocean at all times. 
True, it is not as a whole so stormy as other oceans, 
but when we tell you it was on the Pacific that we en¬ 
countered our four days and nights of storm, and the 
old vessel would crack and creen as if it would snap 
in two, and we were certain of a watery grave. But 



246 


A JOURNEY 


our Lord who stilled the storm on Galilee, “spake to 
the winds and they obeyed Him” during the roaring 
of the troubled deep and “all was a calm.” 

It was on Sabbath morning, so clear, cool and beau¬ 
tiful, that we stood on the upper deck looking upon 
an island of small dimensions, but composed of vol¬ 
canic rocks and lava. It arose in a bold and bare man¬ 
ner, with gigantic stone walls and towering summit; 
and but little soil, if any, could be detected. 

It was literally covered and high above were swarm¬ 
ing birds and sea-fowls. 

It must be a haven to rest the wearied pinions of 
millions of birds. 

O, how delightful for these little tired birds and for 
the great old sea-gull to light and rest, then rise and 
pursue their journey! This is the nearest thing that 
resembles land that we have seen since our departure 
from the beautiful little island empire of over four 
thousand miles on the trackless ocean. 

How good it is to gaze on that little island of rock 
and it swarming with fowls! 

What a fortress for the innocent birds in times of 
storm, and when the ocean is gushing out her spray 
and foam, to fly thither and dwell under its protection! 
Then such a beautiful haven for them to rest and warble 
in the sunshine and sing the hours away! 

Now the ocean is calm, smooth and looks like a 
sea of silver, the waters are deep and as you observe 
closely, are blue as indigo. 

One will be surprised to know the various colors 
of the water in different portions of the world. The 
Atlantic is clear and usually rough. 

The Mediterranean Sea is deep and exceeding blue, 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


247 


while the Indian ocean appears rather a little milky, 
but of a placid bosom unless during the ‘‘Monsoons” 
then veritable cyclones ensue. 

The Bay of Bengal is calm and of a mixture of clear 
and bluish color. 

The Red Sea is well-named. The name of the 
Black Sea is not detracting from the truth of its na¬ 
ture, and the Yellow Sea has a proper name. While 
that of the Pacific is deep, clear, blue and placid, how¬ 
ever storms of great fury and destructive power are 
encountered on its bosom. Now our ship is passing 
a school of small islands of volcanic origin. They ap¬ 
pear rough and unapproachable. 

There is a sprinkle of vegetation and timber of a 
native growth to be seen here and there forming a pic¬ 
ture of value and which is greatly appreciated by one 
passenger at least, and judging from the crowds and 
their maneuvering, you would conclude others were 
of the same taste as the writer, regarding the scenery 
now before our eyes. 

May the 7th, we arose early to meet with a clear, 
bright and balmy morning; and found we were enter¬ 
ing the charming and interesting harbor of Honolulu. 

The city's background is certainly majestic and 
grand, with towering hills possessing a rich carpet of 
green, dotted with elegant cottages and interspersed 
with gardens of greatest choice and taste. Then slow¬ 
ly we descend amid beautiful residences and large 
courts and squares containing a variety of fruits and 
flowers of rare and valuable taste and aroma. 

Still, we descend until we walk the spacious streets, 
behold the large public buildings, and see revealed the 
absence of oriental and historic ruins and splendor as 



248 


A JOURNEY 


we have been accustomed to walk amid; but we notice 
taste and concern for beauty and elegance, capacity 
for and appearance of peace and prosperity fully out¬ 
lined as we stroll the streets, or take a street-car ride, 
or pass through the government houses and gaze upon 
the churches and the institution of culture for both 
head and heart. We are in Honolulu, capital of the 
Hawaiian Island, whose entire population of the city 
and islands reach about one hundred and seventy-five 
thousand, and the tide of immigration from China, 
Japan, and America is giving an increase of hundreds 
to the inhabitants each year. Our ship brought several 
hundred Japanese here to work on the tea plantations 
of the islands. 

The islands are owned and controlled by the gov¬ 
ernment of the United States. They have their gove- 
ernor and officers as constitute the State staff. 

The mineral products of the islands are coal, iron 
and copper. 

The products of the land are rice, tea, beets, cocoa 
palm, bananas and grapes, then the variety of fruits 
and flowers make it appear as though you were still 
in the Orient. The foreign and native shrubbery is 
the stately palm-tree, beautiful magnolias, whose blos¬ 
soms capture the vision and whose odors intoxicate 
the smell, abound in the lovely lawns and imposing 
parks. 

We are delighted with the magnificent government 
houses, the postoffice, executive quarters and official 
departments which are striking in beauty of arrange¬ 
ment and attractiveness of appearance. 

The commodious hotels and the spacious mercan¬ 
tile and commercial buildings reveal the rapid progress 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


249 


and growing prosperity of this little territory, away 
out there surrounded by the rolling Pacific. 

We feast upon the beauty revealed in the wide 
and clean streets, the beautiful shade trees, the cozy 
dwellings; and then turn to view an excellent street¬ 
car system purely of American construction and 
operation. A large water-supply, an excellent light 
plant and a public school system. All this and other 
institutions of culture, learning and training, together 
with several beautiful and commodious churches which 
are growing along with the progress of the country. 
We enjoy it. Then the industrial and commercial ac¬ 
tivities of this city almost lead one to feel as if he 
were in a prosperous city of our fair South-land. We 
visit the Aquarian, where you can see living specimens 
of every variety of fish to be found in the ocean of this 
climate. This is to be reached by an electric car line 
from the city up the sea-side. 

We walk out on the shore and watch the ceaseless 
and restless waves as they come rolling in and break 
upon the rock-bound coast, and sing their dying 
anthems, while others hasten on and catch up the sor¬ 
rowful refrain. Thus time and tide go on, waiting for 
no man. 

Reader, what you and I do, we must do now, for 
our opportunity will soon be forever gone. 

The natives here resemble our American Indians. 
Thy are brown and usually stout, healthy and appear 
intelligent and industrious. 

The influx of Chinese and Japanese seems to be on 
the rapid increase. 

The climate is warm and congenial. 

They have some frost upon the highest mountain 


250 


A JOURNEY 


peaks, but as a rule it is a perennial spring-time which 
produces tropical fruits and flowers and a charming 
climate the year around. 

We had several light, but very refreshing showers 
while here, which seemed to have added new beauty 
and glory to everything about. 

Peace and prosperity appear at every turn, as you 
witness the modern advancements among this people. 

We stepped into a holiness mission which is located 
on one of the principal streets of the city. It is a 
beautiful, large and well-equipped hall, suitable for 
salvation work. 

We were sorry that we failed to meet the leader of 
this work. 

Upon investigation we found that their song books 
used in the mission were the ‘'Songs of Praise and Vic¬ 
tory,” published by our noble Christian Witness Com¬ 
pany, of Chicago. 

We observed that the books were worn and torn 
from use. 

This is a hopeful sign of the general life and activi¬ 
ty of a mission,—that of worshipers and their delight 
in singing. 

We were informed that this mission stands for 
Bible holiness, and is greatly owned of the Lord, in 
the salvation of souls. 

The leader is the widow of a wealthy banker of 
this city; her name is Mrs. Bishop. 

The harbor is crowded with merchant-fleets and 
fishing boats, and a few large steamers which are un¬ 
loading and taking on cargo. 

There seems to be a new company getting on our 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


251 


ship. They are anxious to gaze upon the horrible 
sight which San Francisco presents. 

Hawaiian Island is of tremendous value and im¬ 
portance to the United States, and she is destined and 
determined to make them a paradise indeed, for the rich 
and those who have retired from the world’s activities, 
that they may repair hither and feast upon the tropi¬ 
cal climate, with its delightful fruits and flowers the 
remainder of their earthly pilgrimage. 

But with all the commanding beauty, the congenial 
climate and valuable fruits, and famous flowers 
of this city, I don’t care to live here, for there stands 
just behind the proud and prosperous metropolis of 
the Pacific a threatening volcano,—that’s enough 
for me. You may move there and abide, but please 
let me remain from under the shadow of such danger. 
There is plenty of room elsewhere. 

As you stand upon an eminence and gaze over the 
situation with its vast city and the charming native 
growth of bright green, then the excellent harbor, 
dotted with boats, then farther away to the distant 
fields and orchards, until your eye sweeps over and 
around it all, then with the grand rolling Paci¬ 
fic to form the frame, you are struck with the thought 
that the whole picture of such beauty had either been 
let down from the blue vaulted heavens, or else it had 
arisen from the depth of the briny deep. 

Truly it is 

‘'The paradise of the Pacific.” 


252 


A JOURNEY 


CHAPTER XXIV. 

OUR MAJESTIC STEAMER. 

We are sure a great many of our readers have 
never yet been permitted to sail on the ocean. Others 
have never been on the seaside and gazed upon the 
mammoth ships, and many may never have the oppor¬ 
tunity of either of the above, so we thought it good to 
mention our ship and some things carried on in connec¬ 
tion with it in ocean-travel. 

First, to give you an idea of the travelling done in 
this age of the world, I will simply and briefly men¬ 
tion this one instance. On our arrival in Hong^Kong, 
we hurried to the office of this ship's company, and 
—we shall believe in answer to prayer—just got there 
and had booked for the last stateroom, when right be¬ 
hind us came a crowd seeking a voyage by the same 
ship; and we came on and spent nearly two months 
in Japan before the ship that was to carry us to Amer¬ 
ica had come by after us. I mean to say that we se¬ 
cured our passage to America by way of this ship, over 
two months before it left for that country. 

The name of our ship is the “Manchuria,” named 
after the Province of Manchuria. She has a sister 
ship whose name is the “Mongolia,” built, owned and 
controlled by the Pacific Mail Steamship Company. 

Our vessel is six hundred and sixteeen feet long, 
or over two hundred yards. It is about eighty feet 
wide, and from the top of the sky-light to the bottom 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


253 


of the ship is more than seventy-five ,feet. Her 
ponderous engines are twenty-seven thousand horse 
power, and her displacement is twenty-seven thousand 
tons. Now to give you a still larger conception of 
the tremendous size and power of this ship, I must in¬ 
form you that she burns one hundred and fifty tons 
of coal every day, and it requires thirty-six Chinamen 
to shovel this coal. They work alternately with six 
in a gang, and this work stops neither day or night, 
as long as the ship is travelling. 

The speed of the vessel is usually determined by 
the amount of fuel used. 

It requires four thousand, five hundred tons of coal 
for fuel to burn in her furnaces, in running from Hong 
Kong, China, to San Francisco, Cal. To add yet still 
greater proportions to this huge picture before your 
mind, let me mention what we farmers call “the smoke¬ 
stack,” or the funnel of the vessel; it is one hundred 
and fifty feet long and is eighteen feet in diameter. 
You would see that this is needful too, if you could 
see the clouds of smoke which roll from the furnace 
below and which boil out at the top, and then go raft¬ 
ing oflf until it evidently is enveloped in the sea. 

The engines are of the compound quadruple and 
double expansion make. From the top to the bottom 
of the engines measures more than forty feet, and 
there are iron ladders of several flights to ascend and 
descend about the engine to aid and keep it in perfect 
order. 

Now go with me to the bottom of ship. We are 
walking on the bottom of this great ship and perhaps 
we are thirty or forty feet below the surface of the 
sea, and nothing but one thickness of steel which forms 


254 


A JOURNEY 


the hull of the vessel is between us and the mighty 
ocean depths. But that steel is fully one inch thick 
and usually is doubled. We walk to the rear end, and 
notice two mammoth steel shafts coming from the 
center of the ship, and are elevated a little, and they 
lay along either side of the steamer near the bottom. 

They run along the rear and project on the outside 
of the ship; on the ends of these great shafts are fas¬ 
tened the mighty steel propellers which, while re¬ 
volving force the ship to go forward or can be 
reversed and will draw the ship backward. These 
shafts are more than three hundred feet long and 
measure twenty-two inches in diameter. The engines 
are fastened to them and the engines turn the shafts, 
these turn the propellers and the propellers force the 
steamer forward. Who can imagine the weight of 
these shafts? The engine and boiler rooms occupy the 
middle of the ship from the bottom and well-nigh up 
to the top, and either side and each end will be found 
various departments. 

At each end of the ship it is called the “hold of 
the ship,” in this the cargo and baggage is stored. Then 
at the very bottom of the ship are the store rooms 
Avhere are kept all the fruits, vegetables and foods, 
then there is the refrigrator where meats and all 
fresh fish are kept on ice. 

Then the next floor above this is where the steer¬ 
age class have their bunks: and when the sea is so 
rough that they are not admitted on the bow decks, 
they are forced to stay inside these dark and filthy 
closed-up departments, and if the ocean is angry for 
several days, the odors of these places become oflPen- 
sive and exceedingly foul. One day, we, in company 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


255 


with others, took a walk down and through these 
quarters, and we found most all kinds of tongues and 
tribes, classes and conditions of men and women, ap¬ 
pearing very dirty and repulsive in their taste and ap¬ 
pearance. Now we pass up from the steerage depart¬ 
ment to the first class sections of the vessel. 

The steerage class is not allowed to come into the 
first cabins or onto their decks. The ship in this de¬ 
partment, is cut up into rows of staterooms varying 
in size: halls and stairways run in many directions. 
Our stateroom is iron or steel but is painted snow- 
white with some richly painted furniture, such as 
washstand, toilet case, clothes racks and chairs. Our 
room fs large enough for three beds—half-beds—and 
one sofa. 

We can push our steamer trunk and grips under 
our beds. The beds are of steel frame, with modern 
side-boards, excellent springs and the best of bed 
suits. Our room is well carpeted and is beautifully 
lighted by electricity; you are also furnished with 
electric bells. 

There is a servant who attends to your room, 
who keeps it clean dressed, your shoes shining, and 
will answer the call of your bell. 

Now the gong sounds for dinner. We will walk 
with you to what is named '‘The second dining sa¬ 
loon.” I remember when we first boarded our ship 
in New York, I was walking around through it, I came 
to the above name. Well—I drew back and soliloquiz¬ 
ed, “I won’t be caught in a saloon, and I’ll get away, 
quickly.” 

Well, of course I learned better soon and came 



256 


A JOURNEY 


back to this specific place, three times each day until 
we landed. 

It just meant that this room was where the second 
class passengers ate their meals, and had no earthly 
reference to a place where they sell and drink liquid 
damnation. The only trouble was, I didn’t happen to 
know the difference then. 

Now we are in the first class dining saloon. It is 
a large room, well ventilated, lighted, carpets in be¬ 
tween the tables; there are electric fans over you, 
cushioned chairs, and the table-linen and ware are 
beautifully arranged. The officers of the ship usually 
occupy the seats at the ends of the tables; 'and they 
are systematically separated and divided all over 
the dining room. Chinese waiters, all dressed alike 
with their cues hanging down their backs; and at the 
tap of a bell, all the waiters start for the middle end of 
the larger room where, ihe courses for the meal are 
served. For your benefit I will here insert a list of 
one meal that you may see how they feed people on 
the ocean. 


DINNER. 


Thursday, May 3, 1906. 


Hors D’Oeuvre 
Caviar Toast. 


Chutney, 


Horseradish, 


Soup. 


Puree of Lentils, 


Consomme, 


Fish. 


Baked Yellow Tails, 


Wine Sauce. 














GROUND THE WORLD. 


257 


Boiled. 

Pigs cheek with hominy. 

Brisket of Beef, horse radish sauce. 

Entrees. 

Chicken Fricassee, A la American, 
Epigrammes of Lamb, with Peas, 

Calf s Brains Vol au Vent, 

Queen Fritters, Sauce Sabayon. 

Roasts. 

Prime ribs of Beef an Jus. 

Loin of Veal, with dressing. 

Gosling, Apple Sauce. 

Vegetables. 

Green peas, snow potatoes, stewed tomatoes, 
Boiled tomatoes. 

Dessert. 

Chocolate Pudding, Vanilla Sauce, Cranberry 
Pie, Plum Pie, Nabisco Assorted Cakes, 
Preserved Chow Chow, Bartlett Pears, 

Nuts, and Raisins, Crackers, Cheese, 

Milk, Tea, Coffee. 

Fruits. 

Oranges, Bananas, Apples and toothpicks. 

Now reader what do you think of this? 

No doubt you will want to take a journey. Your 
plate is changed for most all those courses. It usually 
requires one hour to serve dinner and sometimes one 
hour and a half. 

Of course the wines were not mentioned in the 
above list for we don’t use them and it is extra from 
the regular course. Yes, and it most generally turns 
one from the right course too. There are usually 


258 


A JOURNEY 


three meals served each day, with a lunch which the 
waiter brings to you, while you are in bed 
at early morning, unless you order him not to, then 
at four P. M., another one is served. 

Well, you would certainly make '‘a god of your 
stomach” if you were to give way to all the eating 
rules on these large ships. There are all the equip¬ 
ments of the modern city hotels equally furnished on 
these vessels. Toilet and bath-rooms, barber shops, 
bakery, carpenter shop, music-rooms, card-tables, and 
the “smoker” is attached. Yes, a regular old filthy, 
sloppy, vulgar “saloon” is, as usual, crowded and to 
be found in a very conspicuous place. 

Gambling and immoral conduct sway their scepters 
in portions of the ship. 

We have spacious decks to walk or sit upon. Di¬ 
vine service is usually held in the magnificent music 
room. We have on board, about one thousand passen¬ 
gers, many of whom are of the steerage company; but 
there are several hundred in ours. 

We had on board several preachers of different 
orders and names. We had good services on board 
the ship both Sabbaths, as we arrived at the desolated 
city the last Sunday there were no services. We 
greatly enjoyed the seasons of grace during these 
services. ,We had two splendid sermons, full of 
thought, seasoned with grace and scholarly informa¬ 
tion, and were delivered with pathos and power. 

We recall as we were sailing from Singapore up to 
Hong Kong, on a Sabbath we had a very polished 
clergyman of the “high-Church” to fill the pulpit, and, 
as he knew, that Dr. W. B. Godbey of the M. E. 
Church, South and we young men of the M. E. 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


259 


Church, also Bishop Selew, of the Free Methodist 
Church and his noble companion, with some mis¬ 
sionaries, formed a part of his audience, he began and 
opened up at length to inform his audience that “the 
doctrine and experience of holiness was progressive 
and could not be obtained at an instant as some 
teach, but it begins in the regeneration of a soul and 
continues until “we awake in His likeness;” and it is 
misleading to teach, to urge, and invite the people to 
instantaneous sanctification, but incite them to go 
on and grow in grace.” Well, we felt like saying, 
“There is nothing new under the sun.” But here is 
Zinzendorfian theology, and men of brains and wide 
observation who swallow it and turn to proclaiming 
a system of mere thought which dishonors Christ, 
clouds the atonement, grieves the Holy Spirit, and 
impedes the work of God, both in the individual and 
of the Church. We have serious minds, thoughtful 
hearts and noble characters on board; then too, we 
have a giddy crowd of laughers, card-players, dram- 
drinkers, cigarette-smokers and busy-body fellows 
who seem never to have a serious look or an hour of 
quite study. But as we drew nearer the city of sor¬ 
row and sadness we thought this jolly set would 
surely become sober for manners’ sake anyhow, but 
to our overwhelming surprise there was a “dance on 
the upper deck” the last night, prior to our arrival. 
We repaired to another part of the ship for study, 
prayer and meditation. Then at our usual hour we 
retired devoutly thanking God that all the desire for 
such frivolities as were rife on our ship had been 
taken away and we cried unto Him for a closer walk 
and that our life might speak for Jesus. We investigat- 


26 o 


A JOURNEY 


ed and found out from the manager of the Freight De¬ 
partment that they had a cargo of opium—alone—of 
five hundred thousand dollars value, coming from 
China to America. What think ye? The Chinaman 
says, *Ve give opium for cigarettes.” 

The Church should respond, “we will take your 
scoflPs and cruel treatment, but we will bring you ‘glad 
tidings of great joy’ and a Saviour from all sin.” 

Will close this chapter, with this incident. Of all 
the remarkable occurrences that have taken place dur¬ 
ing this wide-world voyage was on May the 3, 1906, 
when we crossed the “International date-line.” 
This line has its beginning away up in the Behring 
Sea, and runs in a Southern direction and ends away 
down in the Southern ocean. The strangeness of the 
event is, that we had two Thursdays in one week, or 
eight full days in this week. The cause is revealed 
in the fact of the world being round and is comprised 
of 360 degrees, and the world revolving once in 
twenty-four hours, and we were travelling toward the 
rising of the sun and hence we were gaining one hour 
in every one thousand miles that we travelled; and 
as it is about twenty-five thousand miles around the 
earth at the equator, hence you see in our circumnavi¬ 
gation of the globe, we gained one day. There must be 
a general dividing line through the world somewhere, 
and it was drawn down the Pacific, this was neces¬ 
sary to have a starting point and many centuries ago 
this line and the given direction of it was agreed upon 
in Rome, and that this line should be called and 
known as “The International date-line,” and that it 
should be the dividing line between the Eastern or 
Orient, from the Western or Occident. It was Thurs- 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


261 

day when we arrived at this line, and on our crossing 
we met the Thursday that was now dawning there, 
hence our two Thursdays. 

If we had been travelling the other direction, we 
would have lost a day, instead of gaining one. 



262 


A JOURNEY 


CHAPTER XXV. 

HOME-SWEET HOME. 

In the harbor of Honolulu we observed a craft of 
the old model, which was directed by wind and sail, 
and the speed and certainty of its going depended en¬ 
tirely upon wind and wave. Then again, we recalled 
that at another time, we were forced to lie in port 
“waiting for the tide to come in” so we could go out 
on the current. Reader, has it ever occurred to you 
that there are throngs of church members who assume 
a neutral position on most all the subjects that agitate 
and especially such as provoke opposition as that of 
Bible holiness, isolation from wordly fraternities and 
cleanliness of personal habits? These folks remain 
silent and unpronounced, but when a revival-wave 
sweeps down from heaven upon an humble, earnest 
and energetic congregation and the work of God 
flourishes in that Church or association, then you 
observe these floating crafts coming in on the spiritual 
tides; but you watch these fellows; they will be like 
the boy who was walking down a crowded street. 
Pie was observed in the middle of the thoroughfare 
stalking along and gazing on the large buildings on 
either side. Someone from the sidewalk called to him, 
“Hello there Sam, where were you raised?” He lowered 
his vision and responded, “I wasn’t raised, I just 
floated down the river, on a raft with dad.” You get 
the point? They just float along and soon float out. 

But a very beautiful and striking significance in 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


263 


our great ocean vessel and that of a person who has 
been “filled with all the fulness of God/' The steamer 
does not depend at all on wind or wave, but simply 
applies the power that she possesses and fulfils her 
mission in life; so does the individual who has “The 
old man crucified/' and is in possession of “The Bap¬ 
tism with the Holy Ghost and fire," and is living in 
the center of his Master’s will. He does not depend 
on feelings, circumstances, environments or surround¬ 
ings, but he, “With a conquering tread, will march 
ahead and trust God to roll the sea away." 

We arise early, it is the Sabbath. What a beautiful 
clear day! All are out and upon the upper deck, gaz¬ 
ing and using field-glasses, trying to see the first 
glimpse of our native land—America. We have observ¬ 
ed that all the giddy, gay and frivolous conduct of 
those dancing dolls and dudes have changed into a 
serious state of mind. Why is this? It was while we 
were in Tokio, Japan, doing revival work when a 
cable-gram ifiashed through the ocean and broke to 
us the sad, sad news of the deathly disaster which be¬ 
fell “The Queen of the West;" and as we are now so 
near the horrible scene, many of our passengers on 
board are stricken with great grief—some doubtless 
had friends or loved ones who suffered in the sorrow¬ 
ful event. 

Deep solemnity rests upon all. The ocean has be¬ 
come smooth and our vessel rolls on without noise or 
any variation. It was 10 o’clock on Sabbath morning. 
May the 12th, 1906, that our eyes first caught a 
glimpse of America—United States—our native-land. 
The charming mountains of California fairly intoxi¬ 
cated our vision for a while. 


264 


A JOURNEY 


Soon we cross the dividing line, that is so distinct 
and contrasting as it separates the coast waters of the 
Bay from the “wide-wide sea.” 

We see in the distance a small boat that seems to 
be anchored, anyhow it is quite still. 

Our monstrous old whistle fairly jars the ship as it 
announces its nearness, and that steam is cut off. We 
glide along everybody is out and gazing upon the dis¬ 
tant blue hills, and toward that little boat. Finally our 
ship comes to a standstill, and that boat steams up 
closer. Pretty soon their flags all go up; no sooner is 
this noticed than from our four great masts, fly flags 
and banners of their respective color and character. 

Every eye is upon that man, who is climbing down 
from the small ship now he gets into a small row-boat 
and is brought up to our steel monster and ascends 
our ship on a rope ladder. O, how glad we are to 
see him. He ascends to the pilot bridge and takes 
charge of our ship and guides it safely into the harbor. 
O, won’t it be glorious, reader, for the Pilot of Galilee 
to meet and greet us, as we near the eternal haven 
and land our vessel safely in the harbor of sublime rest? 
O, I must be there! Reader, are you certain that you 
are ready for the glorious meeting and reception that 
awaits the blood-washed throng? 

Now, land is on either side of us and we are passing 
into “The Golden Gate,” so famous the world over 
for its charming beauty and unsurpassed splendor. 

We start that sweet chorus, 

“Where the angels wait, at the golden gate. 

To conduct us there, to the mansions fair: 

We’re marching on.” 

The light house is to our right as we go forward. 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


265 


Forts are to be observed higher up on the slopes. 
Our vessel steams and seems to weep and mourn over 
the loss in the stricken city which we are now slowly 
approaching. 

We are halted by the government custom officer 
and physician, who come on board and proceed to 
examine both passengers and their baggage. 

O, the sorrowful scene that filled our vision as we 
turned squarely toward “the city of destruction’^ and 
gazed upon the vast plain of fire-swept streets and 
great business-squares. The scene becomes more dread¬ 
ful as we draw nearer. It is a panorama of devastation 
and death. Away up on yonder hill, whose summit 
contained one of the greatest hotels and some of the 
most elegant residences and palaces of the city, now 
stands in colossal ruins; and as the eyes sweep down 
the slopes where once stretched beautiful homes, back 
from the clean white streets studded with lovely 
shade-trees, it now appears as some stubble-field that 
had been swept by the angry flames. 

It was safely estimated that ten miles square had 
been completely swept by fire, and in many instances 
there remained nothing, but the ground upon which 
the houses stood. 

After hours of hard work our “Grey-hound of the 
Pacific” was safely landed in the docks. O, the scene 
that now fills and captures our gaze, the tears were 
free and unrestrained; how our hearts melted at the 
surroundings. 

See! what a throng of friends and loved ones had 
gathered on the wharf to greet the company on board. 
O, how the tears of joy and sorrow flow from thou¬ 
sands of eyes! No one is afraid or ashamed to weep, or 


266 


A JOURNEY 


for their tears to flow, though surrounded by many 
hundred weeping. Our noble-hearted captain was 
greatly troubled all during our long voyage of more 
than six thousand miles, over the sad news. 

But from our high deck, we observed his beautiful 
companion .and sweet-faced little daughter as the 
weeping captain pointed them out. They stood shout¬ 
ing something that was hardly understood, and waved 
their handkerchiefs and cried for joy. 

The Captain had lost all he had in a material sense, 
—but his wife and daughter were spared; this, well- 
nigh overwhelmed him with joy uncontrollable. 

Others received sad, sad news of their friends or 
relatives who succumbed to the merciless flames. 

We had no one to meet and greet us, as many of 
our company had, but we really did “rejoice with those 
that rejoice and weep with those that weep” this day. 

When at 5 o’clock p. m., Sunday, May the 12th, 
our gang plank was lowered and the gates were open¬ 
ed, the scenes that followed we shall never forget. 
Loved ones embracing, friends meeting and greeting 
each other. Some sobbing aloud, and shouting “Hello 
there,” “I am so glad to see you again,” “God bless 
you,” “Well you are here at last,” we simply stood by 
ourselves away upon the deck, leaning over the rail 
and viewed the touching situation. 

It looked like the great crowd down on the plat¬ 
form had turned to white, waving handkerchiefs. 
What a sight! 

O, the tender reception that is given a ship that 
is laden with precious cargo! 

What will the scene be, when the grand old “Ship 
Zion” sails majestically into the royal port and the 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


267 * 

angelic bands, with their harps of gold thrill the celes¬ 
tial harbor with music unutterably glorious; then that 
innumerable company of blood-washed souls swell the 
chorus, 

“All hail the power of Jesus’ name, 

Let angels prostrate fall, 

Bring forth the royal diadem, 

And crown Him Lord of all.” 

This scene well paid us for all the conflicts, priva¬ 
tions, trials, hardships and exposures that we had en¬ 
countered during our journey around the globe. 

So it wdll be that the certain and coming event, 
that we slightly referred to above, will repay us all 
a thousand-fold for all the misunderstandings, mis¬ 
representations, stubborn contdicts, persecutions and 
sore afflictions that may meet or overtake us in this 
life. But then we will sing with the poet. 

“I’ll sail the wide seas no more. The tempest may 
sweep o’er the wild, stormy deep. In Jesus I’m safe 
evermore.” 

Fortunately the great postoffice was spared in this 
dreary waste of surrounding ruins, and we hastened 
away next morning from our ship and received “good 
news from home,” telling us all were well and were 
looking and waiting for our return. This gladdened 
our hearts. 

As there was no place to stay in San Francisco, 
unless we would take chances in going over to Oak¬ 
land to find hotel accommodations, our only hope was 
to remain on the ship and according to the great kind¬ 
ness of our Captain we remained on the ship until next 




268 A JOURNEY 

day—all without charge. Many thanks to his kind¬ 
ness. 

We went on a visit to Oakland and met dear Bro. 
and Sister Ferguson, who are at the head of The 
Peniel missions, a great work scattered up and down 
the Pacific coast; also they have mission stations in 
Egypt and India. 

We had arrangements made to conduct a series 
of meetings in their large mission hall, in San Fran¬ 
cisco, but with the city and their property the program 
yielded to the cruel fire. 

But we were greatly refreshed by meeting these 
servants of the Lord and a band of their faithful work¬ 
ers. 

Back to our ship, with our baggage all out and on 
the platform below. We are forced to return to our 
staterooms, where we slept, read, prayed, shouted and 
rejoiced “with joy unspeakable and full of glory’’ dur¬ 
ing our great voyage over the mighty ocean. 

We turn away with emotion, bidding farewell to the 
many friends that we formed while on board the steam¬ 
er. We take train out from Oakland and start on our 
“journey home.” 

Good bye great old “Manchuria,” who brought us 
safely across the bosom of the great deep, and now 
landed us in, 

“My country, ’Tis of thee, sweet land of liberty, of 
thee I sing! 

Land where our Fathers died! Land of the pil¬ 
grims’ pride! 

From every mountain side let freedom ring.” 

America; the land of liberty; the home of the brave, 
great and growing America—my home, happy and 


GROUND THE WORLD. 


269 


glorious. The greatest republic beneath the sun, 
great in government, in power for good, and for evil, 
great in peace and prosperity. I am happy to be a 
native of this land. 

W'e chose-the great Santa Fe route which stretches 
down across “Golden California,” the land of fruits 
and flowers and across the broad sandy wastes of Ari¬ 
zona, then into New Mexico with the sweeping plains, 
upon whose bosom could be seen beautiful lakes, sur¬ 
rounded with stately trees and graced with imposing 
cities, royal and grand, but on your approach this pic¬ 
ture seems to move forward with corresponding speed. 

It is called a “Mirage”—an optical delusion, the eye 
laboring under deception, which is largely caused by 
the vastness of the plain, the rolling heat, the burning 
sands and the brightness of the sun, all forming a mere 
picture to the eye. It is said that many have been 
known to perish and die as they attempted to cross the 
plains and their water-supply gave out, when the sight 
of these “Mirages” would fan the burning thirst into 
a idame of untold pain and suffering. 

O, how like the deception and delusions of the 
devih as on the plains of life, he draws his attractive 
paintings before the vision of the ambitious youth, 
when they set out to journey to explore the beauties 
so charming, but ever in the far away distance; and 
on their approaching only find out that it is yet ahead. 
On they go in search for mere fancies and die in their 
vain attempt, seeking pleasures, finally perishing “In 
the lake which burneth with fire and brimstone.” 

Our long train of ten great coaches is filled with 
survivors of the San Francisco disaster and a few 
travellers. 



270 


A JOURNEY 


It requires three monster engines to pull us up the 
great mountains. In Colorado, we leave off two en¬ 
gines and one sweeps over the great plains of Kansas, 
with her waving grain-fields and beautiful meadows. 

It was May the 20th, we arrived at “Home sweet 
home,’' met our parents and friends with joy and grati¬ 
tude beyond words to express. Praise the Lord! 

Now we shall rest and enjoy the sacred association 
of our loved ones at home, for a few days. “Praise 
the Lord for His goodness and for His wonderful 
works to the children of men.” 

“O, that men would praise Him,” for “The earth 
was full of His praise,” and “all thy works shall praise 
thee,” because “The earth was lightened with His 
glory;” and the glory of God is the light of the celestial 
world. 

Now let us look back a moment, over our journey 
in which we have travelled over forty thousand miles, 
on land and water; and by the mercy of God we 
escaped all sea-sickness and were preserved * from 
plagues, pestilences and epidemics so very prevalent 
in the old world; were kept from the burning sun of 
India and the threatening ailments, and amid tempest- 
ous seas we were sheltered under His care and pro¬ 
tection and remained “in perfect peace.” 

We were blest with the sacred privilege of walking 
on the soil forever made sacred by His presence. In 
the holy land, we were most joyfully blest in witnessing 
so many souls getting saved and sanctified, during our 
labors and travels abroad; and now we have returned 
to our native-land and now gathered around the pleas¬ 
ant family-circle of good old home; all the way 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


271 


around enjoyed good health, and now are in splendid 
health. 

Our hearts melt before Him, we fall at His feet 
and worship. We feel like catching up the angelic 
chorus, “Glory to God in the highest, peace on earth 
and good will to men,” and ring its glorious anthems 
to all the world. 

Reader, you have followed me on a journey, per¬ 
haps that you will never make yourself, and you have 
observed that we were brief and very limited in our 
information and description of the countries, the peo¬ 
ple and their manners, customs and religions, but only 
sighted you to a few out of the countless number and 
varieties. 

We, in conclusion of this volume, hope to produce 
some information, bearing upon the great missionary 
cause, which was the object of our journey. 

Trusting you and the writer will be counted worthy 
to join the blood-washed army, who “will see the King 
in His beauty,” “and so shall we ever be with the 
Lord.” Amen and Amen. 


2J2 


A JOURNEY 


CHAPTER XXVI. 

THE HARVEST-FIELD. 

As we attempt to survey the profound and stupen¬ 
dous magnitude of this problem, our mind becomes 
bewildered, and our hearts overwhelmed with the un¬ 
dertaking. 

There is so much involved in the task, and there 
are still greater issues involved in our silence and in¬ 
activity upon this the greatest of all pending issues— 
that of “evangelization of the world in this generation.” 

If the Church (we mean all Christians of all Chris¬ 
tian bodies) would widen their view, enlarge their 
comprehension and magnify their limitations until 
they would embrace the Pentecostal fields of activity 
.—“The regions beyond”—and adopt the spirit and 
letter of the motto that made one illustrious to all gen¬ 
erations to come, “The world is my parish”—when this 
characterizes our present institutions then we may 
“thank God and take courage,” that we are pressing 
on toward the standard of Apostolic preaching, pray¬ 
ing, living and laboring, as a Church and as individuals. 

When we view the situation as it stands today, it 
means, in order to face the problem squarely, and ap¬ 
proach it properly, then stand steady against the stub¬ 
born persistence of the threatening floods of universal 
indifference, stupidity and criminal neglect, then the 
dark and deathly currents and foul waves of paganistic 
superstitions, the gloomy and helpless form of heathen 




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s 



.V..i.., ‘..M? I 


0fLA 



' 4 ' 

.f •■ 


. m J: Piim . vif mU m b. 







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Hindu Boy. 







GROUND THE WORLD. 


273 


worship, the traditions of vain philosophers, and the 
curse of heathen priesthood,—to meet this and many 
ether things, just as dark and repulsive, there must 
be power brought to bear, concentration of effort, 
uniting of forces and perfect faith and loyalty on the 
part of the Christian world, to ever shake the founda¬ 
tions of sin, break down false worship, rebulce the devil, 
arouse the millions from their sleep of sin, cast out 
of them evil spirits, and fill them with the blessed Holy 
Ghost, and make the old earth tremble beneath the 
tread and power of '‘them that are sanctified by God 
the Father, and preserved in Jesus Christ, and called.” 

This will enable them to fulfill that glorious proph¬ 
ecy, “For the earth shall be-filled with the knowledge 
of the glory of the Lord, as the waters cover the sea.” 

Jesus invited, rather commanded His disciples to 
“Lift up your eyes, and look on the fields; for they 
are white already to harvest,” and to draw the limita¬ 
tions, if there be any such, our Lord clearly defines 
and marks the boundary of the missionary enterprise, 
when He says, “The field is the world.” 

The need of this age is, for the Church to lift up 
her eyes from those things which tend to secularize 
and centralize her life and activities; which cluster 
around her more especially in the home-land. 

The common tendency is to contract our vision, 
as touching the scope of the great commission, which 
was a positive command not to become self-centered, 
or self-contented or narrow in missionary operations, 
“Go ye into all the world,” is the rule and code for 
all the Church and for all generations to come. 

Now let us “lift up our eyes” and get a glimpse of 
“the field.” 


274 


A JOURNEY 


The population of the world today is a grand total 
of over sixteen hundred million immortal souls for 
whom Jesus died, arose and now intercedes at the 
throne. And approximately from this vast throng we 
must withdraw about ten hundred million who are de¬ 
nominated as heathens '‘and without God and hope in 
the world.” 

You see with about two-thirds of the earth’s 
population yet “in the gall of bitterness and in the 
bonds of iniquity,” it requires that we should be at 
“work while it is called day, for the night soon cometh 
when no man can work.” 

There are about three hundred million Roman and 
Greek Catholics in the world. 

There are about one hundred and seventy-five mil¬ 
lion Mohammedans with nearly fifty million Jews, 
and between one hundred and fifty million and two 
hundred million embraces all the Christians of all 
the Protestant world. 

Thus you see the great battle and glorious triumph 
of evangelizing the world, with “the gospel, which 
is the power of God unto salvation,” must be, and is 
delegated to a very few compared with the vast throng 
which pose under the name of religion. But we are in¬ 
formed that we are in the minority while among the 
vast concourse of men, who are identified with this old 
world that is filled with corruption. For Jesus says, 
“Fear not little flock for it is your Father’s good pleas¬ 
ure to give you the kingdom.” 

To get a better and more practical understanding 
of our subject, let us observe some sections of the field 
in a more systematic manner. 

Beginning with China, whose population reaches 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


275 


four hundred millions of souls, and not over fifty thou¬ 
sand Christians, and less than two thousand mission¬ 
aries, preachers and their wives who are engaged in 
preaching Christ unto this immense throng. There 
are fifty million who die annually from the use of 
opium alone, in China. 

Christian Missions in China date back to 1807, 
when Robert Morrison, known as the “last-maker,’" 
came to Canton. After seven years of hard work and 
living like the natives, he baptized his first convert, and 
completed the translation of the New Testament. 
Joined by William Milene, they two, in 1818, gave to 
that empire the whole Bible. Converts began to mul¬ 
tiply; between 1853 1871, their number had in¬ 

creased more than twenty-fold. Five years ago, it is 
said, there were over thirty missionary societies at 
work in the Celestial Empire, with several hundred 
missionaries and teachers, over one hundred stations 
and five hundred out-stations. 

The China Inland Mission, which was founded hy 
that sainted J. Hudson Taylor, is attracting world-wide- 
attention for the character and quality of work that 
is being done on the field. There are other indepen¬ 
dent, yet unsectarian missions which are doing work 
for the Master, in snatching souls “as brands from 
the eternal burnings.” China is open to the procla¬ 
mation of the gospel. 

The “walls” are down and “every one can go 
straight up before him.” 

The evangelizing of China means the evangelizing 
of all Asiatic tribes. 

Just to think of the unsurpassed artificial water- 
supply; the grand canal which is six hundred and fifty 


2/6 


A JOURNEY 


miles long, is but the largest of four hundred which 
form the highways of that great Empire for travel and 
transportation oi their products, also supplying irriga¬ 
tion. 

The religion of China is principally Confucianism, 
which was named and founded upon the fundamental 
rules that Confucius taught. 

He was born 550 B. C., and doubtless was a great 
philosopher and leader among his people; and the 
system of their religion is the ancestral worship. In 
every house are to be found tablets and shrines, and it 
matters not how vulgar and immoral the people, or 
how vile and filthy the house, the shrine and worship¬ 
per are there. 

The Chinese are a nation of Atheists; and with all 
their high civilization, a nation of gamblers, opium- 
eaters and drunkards. They usually claim that “wo¬ 
men have no souls,” and the birth of a daughter is 
held to be a calamity and disgrace. 

Well, what should be said concerning their mar¬ 
riage? It is said that, “In forty towns about Amoy, 
Mr. Abeel found two-fifths of all the girls destroyed in 
infancy—drowned or buried alive—and commonly by 
the father.” 

Another says, “Probably more than half the fami¬ 
lies of Foochow have destroyed one or more female 
children. Those who are not killed or exposed arc 
sold in infancy for wives or slaves. The husband may 
beat, starve or sell his wife, and women are constant¬ 
ly driven to suicide.” 

H; sf: sK * 

India has a pupulation of three hundred million, 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


277 


and there are about two million Christians, and this is 
not counting the Catholics. 

There are about thirty-five hundred missionaries, 
preachers and workers in actual service. 

India was said to be the ^‘Gibraltar of Paganism,” 
appearing unapproachable for a long time, but our God 
formed a wedge that opened the bronze gates, and now 
the glorious gospel light is shining on, and pentrating 
into the depths of the decaying, dying and despisable 
religions, which have held those millions in their cruel 
grasps many centuries. 

The ‘‘East India Company” was granted a charter 
by Queen Elizabeth, and trading began between the 
London merchants and East Indians/ 

The forming of this Company and the nature of its 
enterprise really became the wedge which God used 
in opening India’s doors to the Christian Church and 
the preaching of the gospel. Also it meant “the lea¬ 
ven” that was working, forming and pointing to what 
became “British India.” And this eflfectually meant 
and yet means the possibility and accessibility of 
India’s evangelization with “the gospel of the king¬ 
dom.” 

There are a number of undenbminational and inter¬ 
denominational missions in India run and operated 
on radical holiness lines. 

Rev. A. Lee Grey, of Arrah, India, has the only ac¬ 
tive and especially holiness mission in a district where 
there must be between fifty and seventy-five thousand 
souls. 

What if this dear man had the prayers, sympathy 
and hearty co-operation of the great host of holiness 
people even for this specific field of labor? What 


278 


A JOURNEY 


would be the triumphs and joy of souls on earth and 
throughout eternity? 

We mention the above, as one instance out of the 
many that could be cited for illustration of the oppor¬ 
tunities, and glorious possibilities of the Church or 
movement in the home-land, also the open-door, the 
need and demand for workers on the field. 

India has a great population of those stubborn 
fanatical Mohammedans, who are rebellious and un¬ 
approachable. 

The Catholics are gaining considerable ground and 
prominence among the people. 

It gives us great joy to chronicle this statement, 
that the great cause of our Lord is marching with 
tread, power and fruitage. 

The caste-system was, for a long time, an unsur- 
mountable barrier, and almost unpenetrable, by the 
missionaries, but the railroad system of India is serving 
to break their caste rules. Now the high-cast Hindu 
sits by the one side of the low-caste and once despised 
Indian. 

The Zenanna life of Indian widowhood was a sub¬ 
ject of great and dreadful import. Just how to reach 
the millions of widows in India with the gospel, whose 
number reach several million, and many, many thou¬ 
sands of these widows not five and ten years old, but 
wlio are shut in behind latticed doors and walls to 
spend their life in poverty, ignorance and slavery; and 
should they venture out in public they are not allowed 
to speak to man or permit men to see their face. But 
the Lord has opened up doors for lady missionaries 
to enter into their shut-in-rooms, and break to them 
“the bread of life.” 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


279 


Pandita Ramabai’s great work at Kedgaon, India, 
was started and is run in behalf of this class, with 
other institutions doing similar work. 

St: * * * 

Japan, with her fifty million population, doubtless 
has become the storm-center of marvellous missionary 
operations. 

The key that unlocked the Sunrise Kingdom to the 
preaching of the wondrous gospel, was given into the 
hands of the United States. 

The gates to the Island Empire were bolted and se¬ 
curely barred for many centuries. In the middle of 
the sixteenth century, a great leader of fame from the 
papal Church, visited Japan and it was reported that 
vast numbers were converted to his Church and even 
nobles and princes being among the converts. 

In two years’ time it was said that twelve thousand 
more were baptized. 

It was in 1587 that a decree went forth to banish 
all Christians, but the Romish converts defied the gov¬ 
ernment and this ended in a bloody persecution, and 
in 1612, it was when so many hundreds of Christians 
were put to death in Japan. 

Edicts w'ere issued forbidding Japanese to leave 
the Empire, and here is the remainder of the Imperial 
decree: 

'‘So long as the sun shall warm the earth, let no 
Christian be so bold as to come to Japan and let all 
know that the King of Spain himself or the Christians’ 
God, or the great God of all, if he violate this com¬ 
mand, shall pay for it with his own head.” 

This sort of condition and state of affairs continued 



28o 


A JOURNEY 


until 1853, the United States sent Commodore M. C. 
Perry with an expedition to demand protection for our 
ships and their crews, and secure a treaty for the pur¬ 
pose of commerce. 

It was on the Sabbath day, he, with a squadron 
of seven warships, and as is described in another part 
of this book, succeeded in making the treaty which was 
signed March 31, 1854. 

Thus Japan was not only open to the trade of the 
world, but to blessed gospel and Christians of all na¬ 
tions. 

The sun yet shines, and continues to warm the 
earth, and the King of Spain died many years ago; but 
there are Christians on the earth and the gospel has 
lost none of its power, our great God is on His throne, 
and the gates of Japan are wide open; and blessed be 
God, that old edict is a ‘Mead letter.” 

The Kingdom of Jesus is spreading, and is “taking 
root downward and is bearing fruit upward” in the 
glorious progress of Japan. 

There are over forty thousand Protestant Christians 
in this kingdom. 

One great event in the history of Methodism in 
Japan is that of a uniting of all branches of Methodism 
throughout the Sunrise Kingdom. 

We were greatly delighted to take note of the 
gracious revival spirit that seems to pervade and stimu¬ 
late the missionaries to more radical and aggressive 
salvation work. 

♦ * * ♦ 

Africa, “the dark continent,” so denominated, with 
her two hundred million and only a few score thou¬ 
sand of Christians. 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


281 

It has been said that there are three hundred and 
upwards of dialects spoken in Africa into which the 
Bible has not been translated yet, and vast sections 
where no missions and missionaries are to be found. 

Bishop Selew, of the Free Methodist Church, who 
had been in Africa attending some Conference sessions 
and who was on our ship enroute for China, gave us 
good reports of their work in that dark continent. 

There are a number of full salvation missions and 
missionaries that are sending excellent reports from 
their field of labor. 

Rev. and Sister Hundly, of Cape Town, Africa, 
well-known throughout our coast, are at the head of a 
new, but a splendid and fruitful work. 

That heroic Livingstone entered from the South 
to explore the unknown, and open a path for the fol¬ 
lowing missionary, and after forty attacks of fever 
died on his knees in a grass hut amid the deathly 
swamps in 1873. 

This was the beginning of Africa’s Evangeliza¬ 
tion. 

O the triumphs which result from the faith and 
obedience of one loyal soul! Who is it, on entering 
Westminster Abbey, when at his feet, a marble slab is 
observed with the name of “David Livingstone” on it, 
feels hesitant to withhold saying “Peace be unto thy 
dust,” or to walk hastily by? 

One thing is evident, if God calls and sends a Liv¬ 
ingstone to pioneer a work for His glory, no Stanley 
can check or turn his course. What was true in one 
instance, must be the motto of the forward mission 
movements of today if the “Great Commission” is ob¬ 
served and our Lord glorified. 


282 


A JOURNEY 


Africa is open to Christian life, labors and litera¬ 
ture. Praise the Lord! 

sK * * ♦ 

Russia with her one hundred million, is practically 
closed to all Christian work. 

* * * 

Tibet, with several million is yet behind closed 
doors and “sits in darkness and in the shadow of 
death.” 

# ^ 

Turkey with her thirty million and with but a few 
“who know the power of His resurrection and the fel¬ 
lowship of His suffering.” 

The work of the Christian Church is extremely 
difficult and slow in the Ottoman kingdom. 

* * ♦ ★ 

France, Spain, Portugal and Belgium and Italy, 
all of whose population reach one hundred and forty 
million—all of which are Catholics and with but a 
small number of Protestant Christians. 

Hs 5|i i 4: 

Korea, the “hermit nation,” is now wide open to 
missionary evangelism, and a gracious work is “sound¬ 
ing out to all the world.” 

* H: * ♦ 

South America, with her fifty million, claims only 
six thousand converts. 

Mexico, so close by us, with twelve million inhabi¬ 
tants and lays claim to only about forty thousand 
Christians. 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


283 


We are happy to note the new full salvation mis¬ 
sionaries sent out by the Texas Holiness Association 
to open up a work in different parts of the country of 
Mexico. 

We shall hear of gracious advancements, and fruit¬ 
ful operations from these missions not far distant. 

* * 5jc 

There are the West Indies, where hundreds are 
without Christ, but our dear Brother Moulton has a 
number of lively missions, scattered on these several 
islands; and which work stands for definite holiness 
of heart and life. 

There is Cuba, with a population of two million, 
with but few energetic and aggressive workers, but 
we are happy to know that Brother Edwards has a 
gracious and growing work upon this island. He is 
putting out a full salvation paper in connection with 
the work. 

We meant to say that Brother Moulton, of Bridge¬ 
town, Barbados, West Indies, is the editor of a most 
excellent and helpful holiness journal. 

There are said to be more than one thousand islands 
totally untouched by the gospel or Christian influence. 

♦ ♦ * * 

We won't mention Britain and America. Now 
reader, don’t you think that we have cause and alarm 
to open our eyes, lift and enlarge our vision, then 
"look on these vast fields," and take more definite ac¬ 
tion regarding the evangelization of these millions of 
unreached and untouched souls? 

It is carefully stated that there are two hundred mil- 


284 


A JOURNEY 


lion more heathens now than there were in the world 
one hundred years ago. 

China has fifteen hundred walled cities without a 
missionary in them. 

With a glance that we have taken at and '^on the 
fields” in this chapter, we shall devote the following 
one, to the general qualities of missions and mission¬ 
aries which have come under our immediate obser¬ 
vation while on our journey around the world; not for 
criticism, but for a better understanding of what 
constitutes the work and worker of the Pentecostal 
type. 

It was our delightful pleasure to have been associ¬ 
ated with many noble characters, deeply spiritual, 
highly cultivated and eminently fitted for the great 
work that was under their charge, who were both in 
and out of the Church, and whose labors were abun¬ 
dant in the kingdom of Jesus. Heaven’s blessings 
are resting upon them. 

O, the joy in praying for these laborers 1 


‘ROUND THE WORLD. 


285 


CHAPTER XXVIL 

MISSIONARY-TYPE. 

There are missionaries, then there arc other mis¬ 
sionaries—all of which carry along their variety of 
peculiarities, qualities and corresponding character¬ 
istics. It is not our thought to make a written display 
of all these and all their general differences in opinions, 
methods and minor features which constitute present 
operations. But the message from our heart, and the 
thought bearing upon our mind is a scriptural, spirit¬ 
ual and a God-called missionary, if we shall be able 
to get the photograph of such a character, as is so 
clearly, fully and so powerfully described in the mis¬ 
sionary statute, known as “The Acts of the Apostles," 
then our ideal will be furnished and will be freely 
imparted in this chapter. 

Really, foreign missionary work is but evangelizing 
on a larger, broader and more systematic scale. It is 
the revival fire leaping over human-made boundaries 
and stretching across the bosom of the ocean; and 
wading into the “Regions beyond," doing the same 
work, but in greater forms as is evidenced at home. 

There should be, and there are positively no limits 
to the time and locality of the mission of the Church, 
“the work of the ministry," and the powerful triumphs 
which the gospel, in this or in any other age, no more 
nor less than was out-lined for the early Church—“The 
uttermost part of the earth" was their field and 


286 


A JOURNEY 


bounds of operation. That is the only limit to and 
for the Church of this day. 

Now let us turn our attention to some important 
features of a Pentecostal missionary. 

First, he (or she) has a very clear and definite ex¬ 
perience of salvation, they possess the direct witness 
of the Spirit, assuring them of their acceptance with 
God. 

Reader, you would be greatly astonished to know 
the vast numbers of workers out in the heathen world 
who are laboring earnestly and toiling along amid the 
darkness of heathenism who are utterly destitute of a 
positive personal experience of Divine grace in their 
hearts and yet whose zeal and devotion to the work 
seem abundant. We are not finding fault, only stat¬ 
ing some existing facts. 

How can one who has no definite and abiding 
knowledge of personal and present salvation within 
his own heart, tell, invite and insist that others ‘^taste 
and see that the Lord is good?’' It takes, and it abso¬ 
lutely requires experience for a preacher, teacher or mis¬ 
sionary to preach from ‘T am not ashamed of the gospel 
of Christ, for it is the power of God unto salvation,” 
and '‘Be filled with the Spirit,” “The old man is cruci¬ 
fied,” “We are more than conquerers,” “There is there¬ 
fore now no condemnation,” and thousands of other 
Scriptures—all full of a glorious testimony of a person¬ 
al experience. 

Reformation is good and has its proper place, but 
it never can produce any sort of moral change in the 
nature of the individual, but there must be that super¬ 
natural work of divine grace, evidenced in the trans¬ 
formation of the soul, usually termed as the “new 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 287 

birth, when the person is “turned from darkness to 
light, from the power of Satan unto God; and receives 
forgiveness of sins,” and when he is “translated from 
the kingdom of darkness to that of light and of His 
dear Son” and is born into the kingdom and family 
of God, by the direct operation of the Holy Spirit—all 
of which embraces the value and meaning of refor¬ 
mation and that of transformation. The former being 
usually denominated the human phase, and the latter 
characterizing the work of God, in the salvation of 
the soul. 

A growing pestilence of this age is, the liberal way 
and looseness apparent, in receiving members into the 
fold of the Church, who are without any testimony or 
knowledge of experimental salvation. 

The consequences are a heavy load on the Church 
of unregenerate members, who are ignorant of redeem¬ 
ing grace, unadjusted to the life and purpose of the 
Church, not in harmony with the word and with but 
little or no conception of spirituality; the outcome is 
worldliness, spiritual apathy and inactivity, threaten¬ 
ing our defeat as ministers and laymen. 

This sort of condition is sorely and painfully 
lamented throughout the lands, by thousands of our 
great and useful clergymen and are associated in their 
struggle to cast this mantel from our work by strong, 
devout and thoughtful laymen up and down our bor¬ 
ders. 

It is an evident fact, one which is beyond dispute, 
that the true and prevailing character and condition 
of the Church in the home-land determines to a large 
degree the state and condition of the one on the for¬ 
eign fields. 


288 


A JOURNEY 


I mean to say, the Church on the foreign soil re¬ 
flects the glory and power of the Church back home. 

You see the vital union existing and what relation 
each one has to the other. 

To illustrate more fully and forcibly the truth. 

The great mercantile establishment sends out 
across the lands their representatives, who are thus 
properly qualified to go in and out before the commer¬ 
cial or business world, and in addition to the needed 
qualifications of these men, they are carefully fitted out 
with specimens of the goods in stock, owned by the 
great firm. Do you see the business proposition and 
its effect upon the world as is evidenced in the charac¬ 
ter of these travelling salesmen and the absolute neces¬ 
sity of producing their samples ? 

The Church, with its preachers, teachers, mission¬ 
aries and workers, both men and women, at home 
or abroad, are (or should be) the representatives of 
God and His gospel and kingdom in the world. 

They are to possess proper qualifications to appear 
and “walk before God with a perfect heart” “in the 
midst of a crooked and preverse nation who should 
shine as lights,” and should “shew ourselves a pattern 
of good work,” and bring “an example of believers,” 
then add to these blessed features of qualification, the 
all-essential and absolute consciousness of salvation 
from sin, which will enable the person to fully and 
properly represent the work of God, and be an en- 
sample of His wondrous grace to poor lost men. This 
leads us to the next thought in the character of the mis¬ 
sionary which is, The Divine Call. 

We believe in and teach that God calls men and wo¬ 
men to the work of His vineyard, it was so in the earth- 



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'ROUND THE WORLD. 


289 


ly ministry of Jesus, and it was so in latter times when 
God chose (or called) “some pastors, some teachers and 
some evangelists”—and evangelist in this sense is not 
confined to certain jurisdiction, section or locality, 
but the definition in a scriptural interpretation means, 

I that, “They went everywhere preaching the word.” 

' Just as clear the call from heaven unto men to 
preach the gospel in America or Europe, just so clear 
and emphatic is the Master’s call unto men and wo- 
! men to preach the everlasting gospel to India and 
China or elsewhere, saying, “Whom shall I send or 
i who will go for us?”—this is the call of God for mis¬ 
sionaries to the distant fields. 

The nature and character of the preacher's work, 
largely determines the condition and state of his heart, 
—we give what we possess. 

There are thousands over the lands who have been 
: clearly called of God unto definite and distinct work, 
who have failed to respond, consequently have grieved 
the Holy Spirit, wounded their own convictions and 
have become powerless in their life, and the sad pathos 
of this fact is that hundreds of these numbers claim 
the exalted grace and life of entire sanctification; and, 
at the same time, living in a constant state of rebellion 
and fatal disobedience to their Lord. An awful pity. 

A minister of no mean reputation, fell in company 
with another very clever preacher of tact and refine¬ 
ment. 

jvir. A-, after a general run of conversation, in¬ 
terrogated Mr. B- as to his spiritual welfare, and 

the train of words and thoughts gradua’lly swept back 
to the time, place and important events connected with 
their conversion. 





290 


A JOURNEY 


Mr. A-, put a close but a very fair question to 

his wondering friend, and it was this, *‘Bro. ^-were 

you ever clearly and consciously regenerated from 
God, and have you the witness of the Spirit dwelling 
in your heart—is your soul in sweet assurance of 
divine acceptance?’’ 

Bro. B- (in deep study) finally lifted his eyes 

upon his silent but waiting friend, and said, “I will 
make the story short, but, I will make it plain, I was 
educated for and began the practice of law, and was 

meeting with satisfactory results. Rev. -, a very 

distinguished evangelist, came to our city and began 
a series of meetings in one of our leading city churches, 
great crowds thronged to hear and among this number 
I was found. 

One evening that great divine delivered a lecture 
of profound thought, power and with logic and fire, 
and the results were—a number of our leading busi¬ 
ness and professional men arose and confessed Christ. 
I was among that company. I ‘soon dispensed with 
the practice of law and straightway took on myself 
the profession of preaching the gospel, and I am thus 
now engaged.” 

Who is it that can’t detect more than one mistake 
in the above narrative? 

First, no certain definite or absolute knowledge 
of personal salvation or dealings of God for the heart. 

Second, merely human choice was observed in his 
changing of profession and all this resulting in no 
power and fire which made preachers of old famous, 
and were dreaded by earth and hell. 

Who has any more right to disobey or drown the 
call of heaven upon their heart for a definite work 






’ROUND THE WORLD. 


291 


either at home or abroad than they have to swear and 
at the same time profess to maintain their loyalty to 
their God and His word? 

When a soul, who realizes that God is speaking to 
his heart, begins to assume the aspect that one of old 
exclaimed when faced with social environments, do¬ 
mestic surroundings, and the ties of nature,—“Woe 
is me if I preach not the gospel”— then you will hear 
of and have more “Farewell meetings,” more out¬ 
going missionaries and more money would flow into 
the treasuries to send to their support. 

It was on our journey to and during our stay in the 
various mission fields that we had occasion to meet, 
come in contact and form some conception, relative to 
some phases of mission work and the missioijary. 

We are safe in affirming that any preacher and all 
preachers, any missionary and all missionaries should 
be thrilled and ever-possessed with the gracious knowl¬ 
edge and a testimony of experimental salvation, sav¬ 
ing them from sin, and then a clear, deep and abiding 
divine call from heaven on their hearts to the work of 
heaven’s choice and selection. 

It was not a few times that we came in touch with 
characters on the foreign field, who were there mere¬ 
ly as their choice and selection of profession and posi¬ 
tion for the time being. 

We are of the opinion and conviction that no per¬ 
son should be on the heathen fields, doing work—no 
matter about their talents and natural ability, who are 
not in possession of saving grace. 

All workers, teachers and trainers, regardless of 
their ability or character of their work, should be able 


292 


A JOURNEY 


to give constant testimony to the power and effect of 
redeeming grace, to those whom they meet. 

It was on ship, during our long ocean voyages, that 
we had time and opportunity to meet and learn some 
things about those who pose as “missionaries'’ going 
out to teach and instruct heathens. 

We had on our ship, going out to India, young 
lady missionary workers, helpers and teachers, who 
engaged in the dancing and frivolity carried on, while 
on the vessel, and yet going to “teach” the poor lost 
heathen. 

O, the pity and sorrow that such a state of things 
is existing! And the way to bring this sad state of 
things to a close is, to “pray the Lord of the harvest 
to send forth more laborers into the vineyard” who are 
“filled with faith and the Holy Ghost;” they will 
spread the missionary fire among those loyal and faith¬ 
ful ones who are now on the fields, which reinforce¬ 
ment of fire and power will refresh, inspire, encour¬ 
age and give them new energy to press the great work; 
and with the growing and spreading of all the work 
and workers on the field, will rebuke that spirit and 
life of secular, domestic, social and commercial activi¬ 
ties all without the spirit of the Master, which seems 
to be asserting itself upon the fields beyond. 

The variety and diversity of work and workers 
abroad, is essential and highly productive in connec¬ 
tion with “Missionary evangelism,” but our burden 
and plea is that all these various places and professions 
on the field should be filled with men and women who 
are living in vital touch and relation with God and His 
Church. 

We mention another important item in the life of 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


293 


the prospective or out-going missionary, his unyield¬ 
ing and undying confidence and faith in God's word. 

For when once on the field, you will see and feel 
the need of a mighty faith in the word of God, and His 
power to redeem from sin. 

Again, you will meet the currents of false re¬ 
ligions, with their traditions, philosophies, history and 
superstitious teachings, and all this taught by thou¬ 
sands whose minds are strong and deeply-fixed; and 
for one to meet these black torrents, he must be 
grounded in truth, filled with the Word and faithful 
to all its gracious claims. 

Now we have deferred for the last, the greatest and 
all-important essential element in the life and character 
of the missionary. It is the real qualification for life 
and service, and this is strictly and absolutely “The 
Baptism with the Holy Ghost and fire,” which positive¬ 
ly sanctifies the soul, and qualifies for service. 

We simply don't mean “Power for service,” when 
we refer to this sacred baptism as is so generally 
taught, observed and comprehended abroad. 

But this “The promise of the Father,” which is the 
inheritance of the Church, provided in the atonement 
of Christ and the specific work of the out-pouring of 
the Spirit, is the cleansing of the believer’s heart from 
all sin, and filling him “with all the fullness of God.” 

The blessed consequences are, a heart free from 
sin, a “life hid with Christ in God,” and power and 
liberty of soul and spirit to perform the will and work 
of God. 

This gracious work of divine grace will not only 
cleanse the heart from all sin, but will burn out all de¬ 
sires and appetites for the worldly associations, frater- 


294 


A JOURNEY 


nities and habits, such as so many preachers and 
church members in America are accustomed to in¬ 
dulge in, and such as will be observed, practiced by 
many preachers, that we met while across the deep 
sea. What a curse and plague upon the preachers of 
this age in this Christian land who are all tied up in 
secret societies and under the bondage of carnal hao:rs. 
I'hey are to be a pattern or “example of good works’^ 
to all the people. Does the above apply? 

What should and does constitute a Pentecostal 
preacher, worker or missionary and this means a clean 
heart, a holy life and it filled with the blessed Holy 
Ghost, also forms the character and condition of one 
and all, either in the home-land or across the sea. 

Now, let us collect the various items and see what 
is the sum and substance of our photograph. 

A clear case of regeneration of the soul, a positive 
and powerful divine call to the harvest field, with 
some natural and acquired ability, and a mighty and 
unshaken faith in the word and power of God to hold 
one steady and true. 

Then “filled with all the fullness of God,” produc¬ 
ing a clean heart, a holy life and qualifying the indiv¬ 
idual to accomplish the work that his Master has call¬ 
ed him to do. 

“He commanded them not to depart from Jerusa¬ 
lem, but wait for the promise of the Father,” “But tarry 
ye in the city of Jerusalem until ye be endued with 
power from on high,” but ye shall receive power after 
that the Holy Ghost is come upon you! and ye shall be 
witnesses unto me both in Jerusalem, in all Judea, 
and in Samaria, and unto the uttermost part of the 
earth.” 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


295 


“And they were all filled with the Holy Ghost and 
began to speak with other tongues as the Spirit gave 
utterance.” 

“Be ye filled with the Spirit,” “and He said unto 
them go ye into all the world, and preach the gospel 
to every creature.” “The willing and the obedient 
shall eat the good of the land, but if ye refuse and 
rebel, ye shall be devoured with the sword; for the 
mouth of the Lord hath spoken it.” 

“Then said I, here am I, send me.” 


296 


A JOURNEY 




CHAPTER XXVIII. 

MISSIONARY MOVEMENTS. 

It is a most hopeful sign of our approach to the 
Pentecostal life and labors which constituted that of 
the primitive Church, in the present day operations 
of the Church, relative to the millions who '‘sit in 
darkness, and in the shadow of death” across the sea. 

When we ascertain with proper conception 
and appreciation, what is the place and object of the 
Church in the world, then our view regarding the 
distressed condition of our fellowmen who arc 
delegated as the heathen, will be clear, larger and cen¬ 
tralized upon their needs, their only hope and rem¬ 
edy. Our concern and concerted action in their be¬ 
half will result in our nearer walk with our Lord, 
and work among the millions. 

The place for the Church in the world is wherever 
"man is to be found.” The relation of the Church 
to the world is beautifully described by the relation 
that the ship maintains to the ocean: the ship was 
made to put in the water and accomplish her mission 
in sailing and bearing precious cargo over the stormy 
deep—but it was never destined that the ship be bur¬ 
dened with parts of the sea. Do you understand the 
truth implied and where it needs applying in this 
age of the world? 

What would this old world be without the Church 
—God’s great institution? Let echo answer what? 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


297 


Again, what would be the power, glory, splendor, 
and tremendous triumphs of the great Church on 
earth, if the worldliness were all eliminated from her 
sacred folds? If such were the gracious and earnestly 
prayed-for day, here will be the true characteristics 
when thus she is cleansed and then filled: “Who is she 
that looketh forth as the morning, fair as the moon, 
clear as the sun, and terrible as an army with ban¬ 
ners?” 

It has been said that a Church prospering in revival 
work at home, takes great delight and occasion to 
press her claims and demonstrate her love and con¬ 
cern for the heathens who are without Christ. 

You may prove this example by reversing the 
rule. 

Search out the churches or missions which are 
doing loving, faithful work in relation to their abil¬ 
ity, who are living under and amid the immediate 
blessings of the Lord, and their borders are being en¬ 
larged, their stakes and cords are widening, and 
showers of heaven’s benedictions are manifest upon 
their preacher; and the Church with all her depart¬ 
ments are operated for the glory of God. 

Revivals of great depth, power and abiding faith¬ 
fulness, grace the courts and borders of this church 
or society. We know by personal observation that 
the truth and value of the above statements have il¬ 
lustrations throughout our land, that no one thinks 
the subject overdrawn or misleading in its informa¬ 
tion or application. 

We don’t care to enter upon any discussion of the 
general operation and government of each or any 
special missionary society upon their respective fields. 


29S 


A JOURNEY 


neither in their bearing or relation to their Church 
or society at home; neither do I aim to speak relative 
to the field, its extent and limitations in respect to one 
or more missions of the diflPerent Christian bodies oper¬ 
ating on the same field, but our time and attention 
will now be devoted to the great missionary move¬ 
ments, taken in a panoramic view, their relation to 
the world, their direct association with the Church and 
their special attachment to the great cardinal doc¬ 
trines of the atonement: as each one sustains to the 
other: and the gracious effects these modern move¬ 
ments are having upon the native Church on the for¬ 
eign field. 

It was in 1806 one summer day in a beautiful val¬ 
ley away up in Massachusetts, that five young men— 
college-students—met out under the little maple 
grove, as was their usual custom, for quiet prayer 
and study. While out beneath the maple trees, a 
threatening cloud began to rise, and the thunder and 
lightning forced the little group to seek shelter under 
a haystack in a field near by. Here they talked and 
exchanged their views, relative to the moral darkness 
and spiritual blindness in the heathen world. 

One of the party proposed that they should do 
something to send the gospel to the heathens of Asia, 
and all agreed to make an earnest effort. However one 
of the band thought it premature for any definite 
action on their part, saying the missionaries would be 
treated with cruelty, but others contended that it 
was the will of God to carry the gospel to heathen^s 
dark domains. 

There, under that old haystack, while the storm 
was raging around them and all hell was being 


'ROUND THE WORLD. 


299 


aroused over the considerations of those five illus¬ 
trious and adventurous heroes, all heaven over 
them was waiting to sanction the worthy decision. 

While a little divided in their propositions and de¬ 
cisions, Samuel J. Mills, said, “let us pray over it, we 
can pray here, under this haystack while the storm is 
passing and the sky is clearing.” 

All knelt, and one after the other raised his voice 
in petition for foreign missions. Mills became en¬ 
thused and prayed that the Lord might “strike down 
with his lightnings the arm that should be raised 
against a herald of the cross.” What love for truth! 

Two years later, as a result of this prayer meeting, 
the first foreign missionary society in America was 


formed. 

Thus, the haystack had become the birth place of 
a great movement that should form a new epoch in the 
history of the American Church. Who can compre¬ 
hend the growth, power and fruitage of the great and 
I varied missionary societies founded and launched up¬ 
on the fields of operation since the decision beneath 
the famous stack of hay one hundred years ago? Who 
can calculate the marvellous changes upon the re¬ 
ligion and condition of many millions of the earth, 
the formation and development of new civilization, all 
resulting in raising the people from a barbaric state 
up and onto the plains of a civilized nation? All of 
which is the direct power and influence of the gospel 


of the Son of God. 

Who can estimate the throngs of heathen worship¬ 
pers who were “snatched as brands from the eternal 
burnings,” and have been “redeemed by the precious 





300 


A JOURNEY 


blood of Jesus” and are forever housed in heaven, since 
the formation of that first society? 

We are unable to here give an historic account 
of the founding of other good and great societies with 
their several boards upon which system they choose to 
operate. But suffice it to say that, all our great Chris¬ 
tian bodies have their respective missionary societies, 
who ace marching forward in their work on the 
fields beyond, with growing interest and increasing 
fruitfulness. 

We rejoice in the fast growing and manifest spirit¬ 
ual advancement in the work and workers of our 
church missionary societies throughout the breadth 
of ”The regions beyond,” we can hardly forbear in 
quoting some statistics of some of our larger and 
older societies, in the various nations, which have 
been observed in the past few years; but we will with 
reluctance desist. 

But at this juncture we wish to speak of the glor¬ 
ious developments and progress, which characterizes 
the modern holiness movement relative to the evange¬ 
lization of the world. As Church history is replete 
with the epochal periods of the life, power and fruit¬ 
fulness of the Church, also chronicling the state and 
stages when the Spiritual power, revival fires, the 
fearful denunciation of sin, clear proclamation of the 
grand fundamental doctrines of the Bible and general 
activity of the preaching, living and practical results 
of the Church all ran at an exceeding low ebb. 

The great Reformation, headed by Luther, which 
swept over the Christian world, bringing unto the 
Church and home the blessed doctrine, experience and 
life of “justification by faith,” causing a mighty 



'ROUND THE WORLD. 


301 


triumph for truth and the kingdom of heaven among 
men, was truly a glad, happy and a glorious emanci¬ 
pation for the Church and individual in that day, and 
is of infinite value to the same, in this good day. What 
Christian student of the Bible or Church history, or¬ 
thodox faith and a lover of the same, fails to note that 
the Reformation, good and great as it was, did not 
herald to the world in its general teaching but one of 
the great essential and cardinal doctrines of the atone¬ 
ment and that was the doctrine of “justification by 
faith” or free grace for the penitent soul provided in 
the sacrifice made on Calvary. This is a glorious and 
a stupendous gospel, one which has its place and work 
that can not be constituted by good deeds, church 
membership or ceremonial performances by the best 
of moral men and women. It is a work of divine 
grace, creating a new heart and making the person 
anew—this doctrine and gospel is needed to be clearly 
and fearlessly proclaimed in pulpit, press and pew, 
that, “except a man be born from above, he cannot see 
the kingdom of God.” Be it understood, now and for¬ 
ever, that this phase of the gospel is absolutely es¬ 
sential to all men in all the world, and must be preach¬ 
ed clearly, and enforced with irresistible power upon 
the people, and that this is a perfect work in its grac¬ 
ious sphere, and we are not underrating or assaulting 
its sacred precincts by the preaching, teaching, em¬ 
phasizing and insisting upon the plain, clear and pos¬ 
itive scriptural doctrine of holiness of heart and life, 
as is provided in the gracious atonement. 

We all know the two-fold aspect of the atone¬ 
ment is the purchase of pardon for the guilty, but 
penitent sinner, which absolves his guilt and the joy 


302 


A JOURNEY 


and light of heaven breaks in upon his heart. Then 
purity or holiness of heart is for the believer ancj the 
truly converted, this is a work of God in cleansing 
the believers heart “from all sin’’ and restoring him 
“unto the image of His Son.” 

Our theology is clear upon these great and es¬ 
sential doctrines; our hymnology is crowded with 
the gracious poetic truth. Listen for an illustration: 

“Rock of Ages cleft for me, 

Let me hide myself in thee 
Let the water and the blood. 

From Thy wounded side which flow’d. 

Be of sin the double cure. 

Save from wrath and make me pure.” 

And once more, hear the strains of good old hymns 
rhyming with truth and melody: 

“Lord Jesus, I long to be perfectly whole; 

I want thee forever to live in my soul; 

Break down every idol, cast out every foe; 

Now wash me, and I shall be whiter than snow.” 

We close with this sweet famous strain that came 
from the heart of immortal Charles Wesley: 

“O, for a heart to praise my God, 

A heart from sin set free, 

A heart that always feels thy blood, 

So' freely spilt for me!” 

“A heart in every thought renewed, 

And full of love divine; 

Perfect and right, and pure and good— 

A copy. Lord, of thine.” 

Thus you see Theology, hymnology and universal 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


303 


Christian experience must and does perfectly harmon¬ 
ize. The Church remained practically silent or unpro¬ 
nounced jUpon this great doctrine and experience 
of Scriptural sanctification for many, many long years, 
but the doctrines of the holy Scriptures cannot and 
will not remain shut up or hidden from the multitudes 
of thirsty Christians. So it must be proclaimed in 
clear and definite tones by the Church. 

Hence you observe another great epoch in the 
life and history of the Church. It was when she awoke 
and arose to the magnitude of her glorious inherit¬ 
ance in the gospel of Christ. She found out that it 
was her blessed privilege to be cleansed from all sin 
as well as to be pardoned of actual transgressions. Who 
is it that doesn’t know, love, and feel the mighty cur¬ 
rents of spiritual life and power which swept through 
the heart and soul of the Church and home, known as 
the great Holiness Revival that rolled over the earth 
like some cyclone, in the days of Wesley and White- 
field. 

This gracious moral and spiritual movement 
brought such power and triumphs to the Church, and 
such glorious victory to the life of the individual, that 
the great institution called “Methodist” is a part of 
the result, and their distinct mission in the earth is 
framed in the words of its founder, “To spread scrip¬ 
tural holiness over these lands “and this gracious gos¬ 
pel is not confined to that section of God’s great 
Church only, but others caught the fire and began the 
loving and loyal messengers of the twofold gospel.” 

This movement continued to sweep over Europe, 
and finally the flame became so tremendous in propor¬ 
tion and extent that it leaped over the Atlantic with 


304 


A JOURNEY 


the coming of Asbury, Whitfield and Wesley, and 
others, until it began to blaze up and down the 
Atlantic sea-border. 

The record of this work baffles all description or 
estimation in the thorougliness of work, power and 
fruitfulness of service and in the advancement of the 
Church in America. Then there came a lull in the 
church, a spiritual drouth and laxity in doctrinal and 
experimental preaching. 

The power and piety of the Church in general be¬ 
came manifestly weak, the blessed, old-fashion doc¬ 
trines seemed to be lost sight of in the pulpit minis¬ 
tration, and a great dearth appeared in the borders of 
the Church of America. At this juncture and con¬ 
dition of affairs, God raised up and called out such 
men as McDonnald, Inskip, Palmer and Finney to 
proclaim and testify to far and near the grand old 
doctrines of pardon for the sinner and holiness for 
the believer. The result, in certain parts, was a great 
revival of salvation sweeping over the lands and thou¬ 
sands were converted and sanctified wholly through 
their ministry. 

The great National Holiness Association was 
founded for the promotion of scriptural holiness 
throughout the lands. 

The earth has, and is feeling the tread and power 
of this association for the good and glory of the 
church and kingdom of our Lord. 

Other associations are formed in different parts 
of the land and holiness schools and colleges were born 
amid the glory and progress of the marching move¬ 
ment. These institutions have taken on such power, 
proportion and usefulness until they have adopted 


’ROUND THE WORLD. 


305 


into the “letter and spirit” of their life and opera¬ 
tions that of “World-wide aggressive evangelism.” 

The outcome is, not only full salvation colleges 
and papers, rescue homes, orphanages, home-mission 
and the dissemination of needy and wholesome litera¬ 
ture, but it has developed in the organizing, operat¬ 
ing and growing of holiness missionary societies, both 
in the schools and the various associations of our 
lands. 

The great Holiness Union, Rev. L. P. Brown, 
Pres., founded by that Prince of preachers. Rev. H. C. 
Morrison, is moving forward upon the missionary 
line in a most definite and aggressive manner. 

In our various holiness schools such as Asbury, 
The Bible School, The Meridian Colleges, The Texas 
Holiness University, Taylor University, and the 
Central Holiness University are missionary societies 
organized and hundreds of the students are studying 
and preparing for the “Regions Beyond.” 

The Holiness Union of the north is taking advanc¬ 
ed steps relative to work on the fields far away, and 
they have now quite a few workers there doing noble 
work. 

“The Student Volunteer Movement,” which is com¬ 
posed exclusively of various college students who have 
banded themselves together into a missionary body, for 
the evangelization of the world do not send any one, 
but they are trained in the various colleges and go out 
under some regular board to the fields of service. 

With these full salvation missions and missionaries 
on the foreign fields, they will scatter the fire of a full 
gospel and the native Church catches the .fiame, which 
goes unto the native audiences. 


3o6 


A JOURNEY 


The hope of the world’s speedy evangelization lies 
in the fact that the missionaries have and publish a 
Pentecostal experience of heart and life then the na¬ 
tive preachers and workers get sanctified wholly, and 
spread the glad tidings of full and free salvation to 
all their tribes. 

The modern holiness missionaries are not and 
should not antagonize those of our Church and sister 
Churches. But their aim and purpose in life should 
be the proclamation of Bible holiness for one and all, 
and scatter the doctrine and experience in song and 
paper, in literature, in life and labors to and through 
the various Churches who have missions and work¬ 
ers on the fields. 

There should be a closer relation and deeper unity 
in co-operation among the associations and mission¬ 
ary movements of all the holiness people, especially as 
a body in the South-land, in a representative sense 
at least, so that there would be held annually a great 
missionary convention composed of missionaries, 
teachers, preachers, workers, students and leaders 
among our various associations and institutions of our 
land where the great missionary problem could be ob¬ 
served from every standpoint, and a hearty union 
and Christian fellowship be thus formed between one 
and all, such as will result in greater action and vic¬ 
tory. Not that such does not exist now, but that a lar¬ 
ger, deeper and a more vital union may redound. 

Who can tell of the great triumphs which await 
this generation of sanctified talent if they prove 
faithful to their Lord? 

Let us one and all do our duty in life, and our 
reward in heaven will be glorious. 

R D 1 B4 



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